Hangry Backpacker

Hanoi vs. Ho Chi Minh City: Same Same but Different

October 28, 2018 By Hangry Backpacker 10 Comments

Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City (formerly Saigon) are the two largest and most well-known cities of Vietnam. From across the world, it might be easy to assume that two large cities in one small Southeast Asian country are going to be fairly similar. In some respects, all of the big cities in Southeast Asia have similarities.

That conversation ends when the comparison is Hanoi vs. Ho Chi Minh City (HCMC). Saying these two cities are similar would be tantamount to suggesting that New York and Los Angeles, or Paris and Marseille, are alike simply because they are in the same country. [Read more…] about Hanoi vs. Ho Chi Minh City: Same Same but Different

Five Reasons to Visit Old Tbilisi

October 24, 2018 By Hangry Backpacker Leave a Comment

Tbilisi is the capital of Georgia (the country), a tiny place most people know little, if anything, about. When plotting the location – Georgia is sandwiched between Russia and Turkey on the eastern Black Sea and is a stone’s throw from Iran and Iraq – many naive travelers instantly write it off due to unwarranted fears.

Nestled in the Southern Caucasus mountains, Georgia has withstood a long and tumultuous history and preserved its inimitable culture. A little bit Europe and a little bit Asia yields a destination that should be on every travel list. [Read more…] about Five Reasons to Visit Old Tbilisi

Beer in Southeast Asia

October 17, 2018 By Hangry Backpacker 3 Comments

Beer in Southeast Asia – it’s part of backpacking and long-term travel in the region. One of the best parts about backpacking, especially in the laid-back travel realm of Southeast Asia, is you can wake up and drink a beer at 9 AM and no one will judge you. If they do, you can’t understand the language anyway, so why not?

When beer – our precious, ice-cold, golden-crisp, liquid refresher – is less than a buck for a pint, you indulge. It’s just a rule. Okay, fine. If you have a responsibility or some other real-world downer, maybe you should wait an hour or two. If you’re backpacking, just think of it as cultural imbibing. Grab a few bucks and go buy an armload of ale! In Southeast Asia, beer is cheap. Sometimes frighteningly so.

Beer in Southeast Asia: Everything You Need to Know

This information is neither groundbreaking or new. In the 21st century, it’s pretty much common knowledge that a cheap bit of travel and fun (and beer) can be found in Southeast Asia. All that endless bragging about cheap brews in exotic locales gets annoying… Until you experience this paradise for yourself.

There is, however, a shortage of reviews of our frothy friend from these parts. After all, when you’re surrounded by dramatic scenery or lazing in paradise, who cares if the brews are good or not?

You should. Or you should at least travel aware, prepared and educated a tad bit more than the backpacker next to you.

For 6 months, I wandered through Southeast Asia learning and exploring. One of my most important objectives was gaining a greater understanding of the beer.

These are crucial questions of utmost importance that need answering. It takes a lot of work to get an adequate sample of beer from several countries. Countless man-hours, heavy lifting (of mugs), all while running the risk of dehydration, or even worse, the munchies.

Despite this seemingly insurmountable task, someone has to solve this mystery. Fortunately for you, I have undertaken this responsibility and I am here to report my findings on the beer of Southeast Asia.

Nearly every country in the world seems to have its own national brand of beer. Many nations even have regional or local brands. Yeah, this is pretty obvious stuff here. The same can be said for the beer of Southeast Asia. With the exception of Malaysia, it seems each country in the this part of the world has, at the very least, a distinct, national beer. These banner beers with generic names and brands are synonymous with their homelands.

But, as a whole, which of these Southeast Asian brews stands out among the rest? Are there a few that really set themselves apart?

Beer in Southeast Asia: The Breakdown

Beer in Cambodia

Cambodia does not have as many beer options as neighboring Vietnam or Thailand. Nearly every bar in Cambodia has Angkor Beer or Cambodia Beer. These are two mass-produced, cheap lagers, sometimes called American lagers. Simply, these beers are potable and that’s about it. When it’s hot out and you want a cold one, these are your options in Cambodia.

There is no difference, each with the same alcohol content (ABV) at about 5%. Like may travelers, I prefer Angkor, probably because of the name and label, with a silhouette of the temples of Angkor. At least the marketing is good.

Klang is another common Cambodian beer. It is usually cheaper than the two brands mentioned above and has the added bonus that it comes in at 7% ABV. While the others aren’t very good, Klang is truly terrible; however, cheap and strong deserves its place in every conversation.

Cambodia has its own currency, the Cambodian riel (KHR), but the country relies heavily on the US Dollar – bring NEW, CRISP US dollars with you. This reliance on the dollar (ATMs dispense US Dollars… in Cambodia!) amounts to overcharging for cheap beer. You can still get a beer for 2,000 KHR ($0.50 USD), but often times the charge is simply $1 USD. They know you have dollars, so learn to deal with your not-as-cheap, cheap beers. One dollar at a time.

Beer in Vietnam

Each region in Vietnam has its own beer available in a small area. With the exception of the larger brands (Hanoi Beer and Beer Saigon) found nationwide, your beer depends on your location.

Vietnam’s two main cities, Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City (formerly Saigon) are home to Bia Ha Noi and Bia Saigon (Bia = beer), respectively. Ironically, both of these beers taste like the flavorless, cheap American lagers that have been drowning the United States for generations. However, the Vietnamese won the war of crappy beer, too. These two lagers are for mass production, which translates to really cheap beer for you.

Other regional brews with boringly similar profiles: Bia Hai Phong (city of Haiphong) found in northeastern Vietnam; Huda (Hue) found in central Vietnam. These beers are similar in taste and ABV to the larger brands.

Biere Larue is another option found in southern Vietnam. The general characteristics of this lager are the same, light and boring. But Larue seems to have a slightly sweeter finish, making it a little more palatable.

All of these beers are extremely cheap. From the top of Vietnam all the way to the bottom, you can start your party for 10-20,000 Vietnamese đồng (VND), or about $0.50 USD. Keep in mind that most bars and restaurants geared towards tourists will charge at least this amount, but mini-marts and places a block or two from hotspots are your friend. Locals often drink by carts on the street. I paid 4,000 VND for a street beer in Hanoi.

Vietnam has a small, emerging craft beer scene. Saigon is home to a few brewpubs and there are also a couple in Hanoi.

Beer in Laos

Laos is seriously limited among countries of Southeast Asia when it comes to options for beer. Not to worry, though, Beerlao is the national brand and is readily available at nearly every turn. Another mass-produced lager, it is a little better than those available other beer in Southeast Asia. The beer is brewed in Vientiane and has three variations: lager, gold and dark. The lager is king. Beerlao is marketed as using local rice and good, imported malts. True or not, it tastes better than most large volume lagers of the world.

A Beerlao in most cafes, restaurants and bars will usually cost about 6,000-12,000 Lao kip (LAK), about $0.75-1.50 USD. Mini-marts will sell Beerlao for 4,000-6,000 LAK, with the gold or dark brews falling on the higher end of that spectrum.

Heineken has a growing presence in Laos, which brings in Heineken and Tiger for more expensive choices. The company also brews Namkhong, a local product. Namkhong is harder to find, a little more expensive than Beerlao and not as easy to drink. In Laos, you want an easy drinking beer.

For cost and quality sake, when in Laos, drink Beerlao.

Beer in Thailand

Beer in Thailand is a more interesting topic. In some ways, Thai society is more liberal than its neighbors – “liberal” is used very hesitantly here. The nation has been more open to Western visitors, investment and influence than most of the other nations in the area. The result, as far as beer is concerned, is more drinking options for you.

The three most commonly found beers in Thailand are Chang, Singha and Leo. Chang and Singha are the most internationally recognized brands, with exports reaching shelves thousands of miles away.

Chang is the beer of Southeast Asia, an easy drinking American-style lager. It comes in at 5% ABV and will usually cost about 50 Thai baht (THB), approximately $1.50 USD, in most (backpacker) tourist bars. Chang, the beer that American lagers wish they were (translated: potable), has become synonymous with Thailand.

Singha is the oldest beer in Thailand. It is a Thai take on Heineken, complete with the skunky smell. Singha is slightly more expensive than its competitors and comes in with the same 5% ABV. Overall, it’s mediocre. Like the infamous durian fruit, if you can get past the smell, you might enjoy a fresh Singha.

Leo is another very common beer in Thailand. It is produced by the same company as Singha, perhaps as a competitor to Chang. With a similar taste to Chang, Leo comes up a little short, with notes of bland and hints of boring. However, Leo is cheaper in some parts of Thailand.

The craft beer industry in Thailand is emerging more than any other Southeast Asian nation. Due in part to the openness towards foreigners, craft breweries have opened up in recent years.

In Thailand, let the price be your guide. The difference in product is insignificant. After you’ve got your Chang beer photo for Instagram, be stingy and buy the cheaper option, whatever that turns out to be.

Beer in Malaysia

With the exception of dry Brunei, the brew situation in Malaysia is the worst of beer in Southeast Asia. Simply, it sucks. Due to obvious religious reasons, alcohol production is strictly monitored and there is a limited amount of beer available. Your options are not unique. Tiger beer, the de facto national beer, is the most widely available beer and even this is from neighboring Singapore.

In nearly a month in Peninsular Malaysia, I was unable to find a locally produced beer.

In addition to Tiger, your options in Malaysia are other imported brands. Carlsberg, Heineken, Guinness and the occasional Budweiser are what you get. And they will not come cheap. In a bar or restaurant in Kuala Lumpur, expect to pay 20 Malaysian ringgits (MYR), about $5 USD, for a crappy import. A few places are cheaper, but 30-40 MYR for a Corona is not out of the question.

You do not come to Malaysia for beer. Fortunately, the food is worthy of your visit. But it sure would be nice to pair that cheap food with a cheap beer.

nasi lemak malaysian food ipoh perak malaysia tiger beer — *The beer cost twice as much as the food*

Beer in Myanmar

Myanmar, formerly Burma, has a big taste for beer going back to its days under British control. The country has a national brand and some regional beers along with a tad bit of variety. Myanmar Beer is the national beer and it is very obvious, as the brand and product are everywhere. Myanmar Beer is one of the few brands of beer from Southeast Asia that is exported.

Myanmar Beer is yet another American-style lager, coming in again at 5% ABV. It is nothing special, other than its place as a treat on those blistering Southeast Asian days. The national beer of Burma is in no short supply and can be found at most bars or restaurants for 1,000-2,000 Myanmar kyats (MMK), roughly $0.50-1.00 USD. Mini-marts are, of course, your cheaper option. Nicer restaurants and bars, especially in Yangon (formerly Rangoon), will push the price of your beverage to 2,000 MMK and higher.

Like other big cities in Southeast Asia, Yangon has a beer street. Beer Street (19th Street) in Yangon is a great stop for cheap dinner and a fun time with locals and the few other tourists around.

Mandalay, the main city of Upper Burma, is a cultural center of the nation. As far as beer is concerned, the city is dominated by Myanmar Beer like the rest of the nation. However, Mandalay Beer is also available in the area. It is a little better than the national brand and seems to be cheaper, too. But it is not worth an extensive trek to find. No beer in this part of the world is worth going out of your way to find.

Dagon and Andaman are more options for your monotonous lager-tasting of Southeast Asia. Andaman makes a gold lager and a gold lager special. These have an ABV of 5% and 6.5%, respectively. They are usually found in supermarkets and mini-marts, coming in a little cheaper in those places than a Myanmar Beer at a bar. At 6.5% in the Andaman Gold Special, you can suffer through the beer for the extra boost. There is no need for further mention of Dagon.

Yoma is another Burmese brew that you may see in Myanmar. Yoma is a newer product (same boring-style lager) from a global beer giant brewed in Myanmar. Over the course of one month in the country, I only saw Yoma in a single restaurant. It really is not any better than Myanmar Beer, but it has a slightly higher ABV at 5.40%. If you have no other choice, Yoma is fine. However, when in Myanmar, the national brand is likely the cheaper option and should be your go-to beer.

Overall, Myanmar is in the middle of the pack for beer in Southeast Asia, perhaps slightly above average.

Imported Beer in Southeast Asia

Beer from the brewing giants around the world have found their way to Southeast Asia, on the shelves of mini-marts and in the coolers of bars. If you need a Budweiser, Corona, Heineken or Carlsberg, you can find these options. Why you would ever want to consume any of these is a discussion for you and your physician over your ineffective taste buds.

Craft Beer in Southeast Asia

Craft beer is in. What used to be the realm of nerdy chemists, beer snobs and pretentious boozers is now mainstream. However, many people forget about Southeast Asia when they think about the craft beer world.

Bar hopping in Bangkok is definitely not the heavenly indulgence that is Belgian bars or the IPA wonderland of dingy Portland dives. To the surprise of many, you can find plenty of quality craft beer options in the chaos that is the infamous backpacker hub of Southeast Asia.

Due in part to the openness towards foreigners, craft breweries have opened up in recent years. Several expatriates from North America and Europe have relocated to this Kingdom in Southeast Asia and brought a love of quality beer with them. Thanks to these brave, enterprising runaways, you will find craft beer options across the country. The downside is that these beers are usually geared towards tourists or wealthier people. There will be no deals on craft beer.

Cambodia does not have much in the way of craft beer outside of Phnom Penh. Even in the capital city, there are only two or three options. Notably, Hops Brewery in the city center is a fantastic option to satisfy your beer-drinking needs. Hops follows traditional German purity laws of brewing and is owned and personally run by a German expat. While the food is not as cheap as what you find elsewhere in the city, it is probably the best German food you can find in the country, if not all of Southeast Asia.

Sitting at the bar in Hops, looking at the tanks and brewhouse around, you will forget you’re in the middle of Phnom Penh. Hops is a unique scene for beer in Southeast Asia. The Hops IPA and Red Fury are my personal favorites.

The western influences so obviously visible in Ho Chi Minh City have yielded a few craft brewing operations. While still on a very small scale, this has even spread north to Hanoi.

Pasteur Street Brewing Company originated in Ho Chi Minh City and also has a location in Hanoi, right behind St. Joseph’s Cathedral. The beer here is very good. The quality stands up to craft beers in the west, but the the prices do too. Stop in here if you have an extra 100,000 VND or are in dire need of a good quality beer. Sipping a double IPA on the balcony, I briefly felt as though I was in Oregon. Sometimes it gets cold in Hanoi.

The State of Beer in Southeast Asia: The Results

National Brands

It’s all pretty bad. While there are a few brews that are significantly worse than others, nothing stands high above. Overall, the mass-produced labels in Southeast Asia are basically the same product in different packaging. Lagers. Pale lagers. Wheat and rice beers. Occasionally, someone throws in a stout for confusion.

Beer in Southeast Asia might be crap in the giant continuum that is beer analysis, but that doesn’t mean it’s all bad news. There are positives about drinking beer in these countries.

Cheap beer is good thing. Maybe you aren’t going to get top quality in Yangon, but you won’t pay five bucks for uncertainty either. That lager in Hanoi might not be the Bavarian treat you dreamt of, but how about a large bottle for less than $0.50? Yeah, sounds good. And certainly a hell of a lot better than 10 Euros in a Munich bar.

The basic beers of Southeast Asia are nothing in comparison to the products many of us are used to, and quite frankly, with which we are spoiled.

Craft Beer

As far as the craft beer industry is concerned, growth in Southeast Asia is exploding. That is, where there may have been a handful in the past, today you can find a couple of handfuls. This is unlikely to turn into exponential growth anytime soon. After all, many of these countries are corrupt, totalitarian states that wouldn’t want to see the profits of state-owned breweries diminish.

Perhaps even worse than intensely government regulated beer is that many of the flagship/national brands mentioned above are, in fact, controlled or owned by the giants. That’s right. Heineken and Carlsberg are owners, at least in part, of leading brands in Laos, Cambodia, Vietnam, Malaysia, Myanmar and Singapore. As long as these giants keep paying and are in control of the regional market, craft beers will be few and far between.

Nevertheless, even slow growth is progress. If you want to see a change in beer for the better, there is certainly a politician to be found in Southeast Asia awaiting your bribe!

The Takeaway

Most travelers do not arrive in Southeast Asia seeking or expecting anything exceptional when it comes to beer. Nearly every option would leave a beer snob disappointed. And that’s the key: leave the beer snobbery at home. The beautiful thing about beer in this part of the world is that it works. It works wonderfully with a plate of spicy mystery in Mandalay and pairs perfectly with paradise in Ko Lanta. Your relief from the Saigon sauna is an ice-cold beer for less than a dollar and that ain’t a bad thing.

Southeast Asian beers might not be the best, but refreshing and cheap goes a long way. At the end of the day, at least it’s not a Bud Light.

A Guide to Laos’ Four Thousand Islands: Time to Chill

October 6, 2018 By Hangry Backpacker 3 Comments

A Guide to Laos’ Four Thousand Islands: Time to Chill – Updated June 2019

Laos is a country known more for its darker days of history than as a travel destination. Landlocked in Southeast Asia, much of the nation is rugged, remote and lacking in lavish luxury. That being said, there are still plenty of reasons to visit the Lao People’s Democratic Republic.

Si Phan Don, more commonly known as Four Thousand Islands, is an archipelago in the Mekong River in Southern Laos. Most of the islands of Si Phan Don are either inaccessible or reachable only by small boat. [Read more…] about A Guide to Laos’ Four Thousand Islands: Time to Chill

Traveling Vietnam During Tet

October 3, 2018 By Hangry Backpacker Leave a Comment

Traveling Vietnam during Tet can be quite the experience. Tet is the biggest holiday of the year in Vietnam. It is the celebration of the Lunar New Year and the coming of Spring, sending the country into a fit of chaos and celebration. Typically falling sometime in January or February, the people of Vietnam travel from across the country back to their hometowns to celebrate Tet and spend time with family.

It is a celebration of fun, but also a serious preparation for the new year. The longstanding traditions are apparent everywhere with decorations, altars and burning pots of paper? Yes, you will see large stock pots of paper burning on the streets of cities and towns alike. It is a bit annoying and not so fun to huff the smoke, but it is Vietnam. You do not come here for crisp, clean air.

There is a lot to consider before traveling in/to/through Vietnam during Tet. The actual New Year’s Day may only be a single day, but the effects are noticeable for 5-10 days before and after. Here are some important things to note for travel in Vietnam during Tet:

Transportation in Vietnam During Tet

The safest way for foreigners to travel through Vietnam is via bus or train. Trains can be more scenic and comfortable, but at some point, you will have to take a bus if you venture out of the larger cities. And you should do this!

The same should be said for Tet. Again, the best way to get around is bus or train. But! As mentioned above, the people of Vietnam travel across the country themselves during Tet. And seeing as there are about 100 million people from Hanoi to Ho Chi Minh City in this long, narrow country, the buses and trains will have many more passengers than any normal day the rest of the year.

Seriously, a lot more people. Do not be surprised to find yourself on a jam-packed, oversold bus for hours, with people squeezing on the floor for any space available. The next thing you know, you might have a strange baby on your lap! Safety on the roads is not exactly priority #1 in Southeast Asia; so if you want a comfy and cozy ride, stay home or pay through the nose.

The main point of noting the transportation differences when traveling though Vietnam during Tet are the inflated costs. The tourist buses are more expensive than the local buses to begin with, and during the New Year’s chaos, you can expect prices to be double or worse. The prices are still cheaper than buses in most western nations, but if you are trying to penny-pinch your way up/down the country, this time of year will make that harder.

You can always opt for the local buses, but these already overcrowded buses will now be miserably full.

An example of the inflated prices is the overnight sleeper bus from Hoi An to Da Lat. This bus will normally cost you $8-15 USD; however, during Tet, expect the tab to be $30 and up. The earlier you book, the better, but it will be difficult to stick to that airtight budget during this time.

Accommodation in Vietnam During Tet

The same goes for lodging. As a solo traveler, choosing dorms in a hostel or homestay is almost always the cheapest route. When traveling in Vietnam during Tet, this is still true, but be prepared to pay anywhere from an dollar or two to double the rate each night.

The tough part about dealing with accommodation in travel to Vietnam during Tet is not surging prices, but simply finding a vacancy. Hotels are businesses too, often family-owned, and many will shut their doors for a week or more.

There are plenty of stories from travelers who book accommodation early, only to arrive and find their hotel locked and dark. During a time when vacancies are harder to come by, this can put you in a stressful bind. The last thing anyone wants is to feel stranded in the sweltering heat, bags aplenty, with nowhere to go.

Book your accommodation early and make contact with the property to ensure you won’t be left out on the curb.

Businesses/Shopping During Tet

While many hotels and hostels shut their doors for the holiday, even more businesses close down. During Tet, family and celebration is more important than tourist dollars – it is a headscratcher, but respectable.

The UNESCO-designated city of Hoi An, totally dependent on tourists who come to relax and get that new personally tailored wardrobe from scratch, is no different. People come across the world to get a set of clothes or handmade leather goods for pennies on the dollar for what you would pay for the same quality elsewhere. However, during Tet, most of these tailors close as well. If you want that suit, you had better come early or stick around after the holidays. It is not about the money at this time, so be patient. They will get to you when they get to you.

Even restaurants shut their doors, leaving the hungry, confused tourists scratching their heads, wandering in search of an open option. Those that do remain open, especially in heavily touristy areas, may add a surcharge to your total bill.

Finding a hostel/hotel that is open and serves food might be a wise decision for peace of mind.

One business that will probably be open is the local mini-mart. Everyone needs booze and party supplies so you may still have that option. However, playing it safe would be best. Stock up on Vietnamese beer, seaweed potato chips, a $2 bottle of local rum and wait for the fun to begin.

Stay in One Place

The most important thing you should note about traveling Vietnam during Tet is to stay in one place. It is not impossible to get around, but your life will be considerably easier and less stressful if you don’t wander too far. You can save money avoiding price surges, avoid headaches from trying to find last-minute lodging, sit back, relax and enjoy the celebrations.

Once you find a place you enjoy or think will suit you, arrive a couple of days before Tet and stick around for 3-4 days after. This can be a major chunk of time for most trips to Vietnam, but if you are on a budget, take this chance to really get to know this one place and catch your breath. Travel is exhausting and Tet is the perfect excuse to take a break in Vietnam. And party.

Hoi An is a wonderful place to celebrate, with tourists and locals ringing in the New Year and partying side-by-side into the wee hours of the morning. Bigger cities are also known for hosting massive celebrations, so take your pick!

If you are lucky enough to receive an invitation to join a local family or group for their celebrations, DO NOT pass it up. You will see a more authentic and localized celebration, and the holiday foods cooked in homes are not commonly found in restaurants. Oh, and it’s really good.

Why You Should Travel Vietnam During Tet

Tet seems like a stressful time to be traveling in Vietnam. Yes, this is true. But it is a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to see an entire nation buzzing around with excitement and pride. The Vietnamese flags are not in short supply, waving from every house and shop across the country.

Mandarin trees are present in every building. Apparently, you have to have one (strangely you do not see many people eating the mandarins, though), and it is debatable whether or not there are more mandarin trees in homes and shops or on the back of motorbikes. The floral displays are intricate and beautiful, adding even more color to an already radiant country.

Traveling in Vietnam during Tet is an exciting time to be in the country. Any opportunity to go abroad and take part in a local festival, event or holiday should be taken. You get a front row seat for fun and culture. Do not hesitate on buying that ticket to Vietnam. Go ahead and proceed to checkout, but make sure you budget a few extra bucks per day and pack plenty of patience!

11 Tips for Visiting Angkor Wat

July 29, 2018 By Hangry Backpacker Leave a Comment

The temples of Angkor, more commonly referred to as Angkor Wat, are the number one destination for tourists visiting Cambodia. No trip to this Southeast Asian country is complete without exploring the ancient temple complex.

In reality, Angkor Wat (Wat means temple) refers to a single temple in the center of the ancient Khmer empire. Naturally so, it is the biggest and most majestic stack of stones in the area. But there is more to the temples of Angkor than the flagship temple. And before you go, there is more to know.

Here are 11 things you need to know for your visit to the Temples of Angkor:

1. How to get to Siem Reap

Siem Reap, the gateway to the temples of Angkor, is the third largest city in Cambodia and just a few miles away. If you have no intention of visiting anywhere else in the country, you can fly in to Siem Reap. This would surely be the easiest option, but not necessarily the cheapest.

If you are traveling through Cambodia (this is what you should be doing) you can take a minibus nearly anywhere for just a few dollars – US Dollars are accepted, and often preferred, in Cambodia, so bring your greenbacks!

Getting to Siem Reap from Phnom Penh:

There are several minibuses departing throughout the day from various points. They are all more or less the same – bumpy, crowded and lacking in luxury. If you are looking for luxury, go back to the Four Seasons. The minibus is the best way to go. It is cheap – about $10-12 per person – for a 6-8 hour ride. It stops a few times and you can see the Cambodian countryside along the way.

Getting to Siem Reap from Battambang:

The minibus from Battambang takes a few hours to go a short distance. It should not cost you more than $8 per person. This is a good option for many people, as a stop in Battambang gives you a chance to see another city and explore a less-crowded, nearly tourist-free Cambodian city. It is worth a day or two to explore the area.

There is also a ferry from Battambang. However, it is considerably more expensive (more than $25pp), slower and unreliable. In theory, it operates when the river is high enough, but this is not always the case. Don’t count on it.

Do not take the night bus. While you may be riding in fear on Cambodian roads at any time of day, the night buses do not have the best record for safety lately. It is not worth trying to save a few bucks on accomodation to risk your safety.

2. How much does a visit to the Temples of Angkor cost?

Ticket prices to visit the Angkor Archaeological Park have risen in recent years. A few years ago, you could visit for about $20. However, prices are rising! Currently, foreigners can expect to pay $37 for a single day pass or $62 for three-day entry. Yes, it seems like a budget-buster for many backpackers, but this is a must-see for any visit to Cambodia. Budget accordingly before you plan the trip! Choose the three-day option. You cannot see it all in a single day and even if you only visit for two days, it will save you money.

Bring your passport to buy your tickets. This is not a tip. It is a requirement for ticket sales.

A tuk tuk (think motorcycle chariot without the glamour) is the best mode of transportation to visit the temples. Siem Reap is too far from the temples of Angkor to reach by foot, and forget about public transportation. Your tuk tuk driver will take you to buy your tickets (they are only sold at a single off-site location), and then drive you to each site.

Again, the complex is enormous. No, you cannot possibly walk. At times, there are miles between sites. You will get plenty of exercise walking around and climbing on the ruins.

Your tuk tuk should cost you $15-20 per day. This is the total price, not per person. So if you have 2-3 people in your party, well, I seriously hope you can do the math. Again, it might seem like this visit is getting expensive. It does add up, but this is a necessary evil of the visit and will make it considerably easier on you. Look at it this way, most of the money from your ticket is likely lining political pockets, so you are helping to support the local economy more when you hire a tuk tuk.

3. How Long Does it Take to Visit Angkor?

If you are in a time crunch, you can see a few main sights in a single day. However, as mentioned above, to adequately (not even thoroughly!) see the Angkor Wat and tour the other temples of Angkor, you need to allot at least two days for exploring. The area is massive and it just takes some time. If you have a third day, you should take advantage and see what you missed or go back to see your favorites again.

Sunrise and sunset are popular times to visit, so take this into consideration. See more below.

4. Eating at Angkor Wat

First, eat breakfast and bring a snack. But once you have arrived, a day exploring ancient ruins in the Southeast Asian heat will work up an appetite. There are places for snacks and drinks everywhere, but when you need something more substantial, try the tents near the parking area before the entrance to Angkor Wat (remember, Angkor Wat is a single site, not the whole place). These are cheaper and quicker than those right next to Angkor Wat. For $2-3 you can have a massive plate of super fresh deliciousness in front of you, fueling your exploration for the day. If you don’t know what to order, just ask your driver.

Oh, and beware of the spicy! In case of intense heat, order a beer. This is always a good idea.

5. Sunrise at Angkor Wat – The Truth

As mentioned above, sunrise is a popular time to visit the temples of Angkor. A quick google search of Angkor Wat will surely yield some breathtaking photos of a majestic sunrise looming behind the ancient architectural masterpiece. Don’t kid yourself, we all want that photo for ourselves.

Your tuk tuk driver will likely recommend you wake up and go for sunrise – and you should! The scene is certainly a peaceful and beautiful one.

However, the reality of the situation is that, despite the fact that you woke up at 4 AM, you will not find a serene scene to yourself. You will be accompanied by thousands, yes thousands, of other tourists and wannabe National Geographic photographers. There will be tripods set up everywhere, people toting thousands of dollars worth of equipment and no shortage of local vendors either. Your romanticized scene of waking up with Angkor Wat is just that – romanticized.

This is not to say you should avoid arriving before sunrise. You can still manage to snap a few pics that will surely have your Instagram followers reeling over the mysticism and whatever bullshit Thoreau quote you choose. Just know beforehand, the reality of sunrise at Angkor Wat is not what we have been led to believe.

The best part about arriving before sunrise to the complex is avoiding the masses. I know. I just said that there will be thousands of others there already. But they will mostly be behind their lenses and tripods. Your advantage lies in being one of the first people inside the temple when the gates open.

Snap a couple pics of the pre-dawn glow, then head over to the gate. As soon as the gate opens, scurry up and get a couple photos of the front without people. Then go inside and explore. For the first 30-60 minutes, there will be relatively few people inside to spoil your exploring (and your photos). If you wish, queue up in the center to climb to the top before the line extends to outrageous lengths.

Another advantage of your early arrival is reaching the other temples before the hordes of tour buses arrive. So don’t waste too much time seeing Angkor Wat, maybe an hour after sunrise, then quickly head to the other temples to make the most of your exploring.

7. Go Backwards!

Most tuk tuks, guides and groups take the same route through the temple complex. It is basically a loop. The result is that you arrive at each area with loads of other people. When your driver suggests a plan, ask if you can go backwards and see the last one first.

Specifically, the “Tomb Raider Temple” as it is known from its feature in said film, will be so annoyingly crowded that you have to wait in lines to take pictures of certain corners, walls and trees. Make this an early stop to avoid the masses.

Another good starting point would be to Angkor Thom. The Bayon Temple, at the center of this site, is smaller than Angkor Wat, but more well-preserved in some respects. It is a maze and truly a joy to wander, but the crowds gather here soon as well.

7. Don’t Ride the Elephants at Angkor Wat

[Update]: As of 2019, elephant-riding at Angkor Wat has been banned.

As you are walking around some of the sites, you may be startled as you look up to see a massive elephant trudging down the road. They are not behind any wall, cage or enclosure. These beasts will have many of us stop dead in our tracks to stare in awe. Atop the elephants is a seat for tourists. At first thought, it seems like such an incredible experience. To ride an elephant, a revered and sacred animal across much of Southeast Asia, through an ancient temple complex… What an experience! Right?

Unfortunately, no. As much as many people would like to think it is a fun and harmless activity, these elephants are treated horribly. They are not trained. They are beaten, tortured and starved into submission. So much so that Southeast Asia is seeing a huge trend going from elephant riding to elephant sanctuaries. This isn’t just some meritless PETA fluff. It is true. Perhaps somewhere there is a place that has learned to magically train elephants without harm. If so, it is a secret.

Do not support the riding of elephants.

8. Beware of the Monkeys!

In keeping with the topic of wildlife, you will inevitably see some monkeys (or macaques or whatever they are) wandering around the temples. The great scene of ruined temples in the jungle that are now home to monkeys, they appear cute and photogenic. They are even approachable. Do not be fooled. These bastards are vicious.

In an instant, these monkeys will turn from cuddly to aggressive. They aren’t really afraid of you and will harass and attack you if you let them. Don’t encourage them or (willingly) feed them. And whenever you see them, hold on to your stuff. Any loose item of food, sunglasses or camera sitting idle becomes a toy to be stolen or destroyed. Remember they are wild animals and malicious little tricksters at best.

9. Bargain Shopping at Angkor Wat

As is the case with many markets or shops catering to tourists around the world, you will be hounded by people trying to sell you stuff. From figurines to shirts to paintings, they sell it all. At Angkor, these people can be especially aggressive. The moment you think you are thirsty, they can sense it and will be on you like flies. There are a few keys to remember when purchasing at Angkor.

Don’t act interested. If you seem inclined to purchase a souvenir, you will be bombarded by saleswomen. And, all of a sudden, instead of a single t-shirt, you’ve got a whole new wardrobe of cheap crap.

Walk away. If you are annoyed by the tactics, just leave. Don’t help perpetuate the harassing behavior. As soon as it approaches overwhelming, get out of there. The feeling of bombardment can soon turn to frustration and anger, and you do not want your adventurous spirit of exploration to be dampened by overzealous shopkeepers.

From a westerner’s perspective, they might actually get more business if they were patient and calmer. Many tourists are deterred from this type of sales. But do not expect things to be any different for your visit.

Lastly, make sure to go low when bargaining. Yes, the prices already seem very cheap, but they are not offering you a fair price. Many of the booths at the Angkor Temple Complex are actually cheaper than stores in Siem Reap (which tells you how overpriced those markets are), so it can be a good place to pick up a souvenir t-shirt, scarf or cheap whatever.

Even so, start really low in the bidding and ignore the sob stories. Nearly all of the salespeople will tell you a sad story. Do not buy into it. They know how to tug at the heartstrings of tourists. If they claim to lose money in a sale, it is not true. Remember, millions of people visit this place every year. Don’t feel guilty about walking away or getting (what you think) is a steal.

10. What to Wear at Angkor Wat

This is one of the most important things to consider for your visit to the temples of Angkor. This is not a suggestion. There are strict rules about attire for visiting almost all of the sites in the area. The reason is, despite the temples of Angkor being an historical and archaeological attraction, they are temples. This is still very much a religious and holy site for many people.

Shoulders must be covered and long pants must be worn. There are really no exceptions. If you see people not dressed this way, they must have slipped through the cracks and must be disrespectful pricks. Don’t be that person.

Now that we have established that you must dress appropriately, consider the weather. This is in the jungle, where most of the year it is oppressively hot and humid. Perhaps this isn’t the best day to show off your new outfit, no matter how cute you think you are, if it is going to send you into heat stroke. Wear light-colored, loose-fitting clothing. Bring a towel. And bringing a change of clothes might not be a terrible idea either. You will be sweaty.

11. What to Expect When Visiting Angkor

The Temples of Angkor is one of the most fantastic ancient sites you can visit today. Once forgotten and then inaccessible, today this place is on every travel radar and easier to reach than ever before.

However, there are some important things to remember to help you know what to expect.

As mentioned above, it is hot and you should prepare for that physically and mentally. Take the two or three days if you can and go easy so you don’t overdo it and wear yourself out too quickly. Drink plenty of water.

sweaty Hangry Backpacker at the Angkor Temples in Spring — *sweaty Hangry Backpacker at Angkor*

Also mentioned above, this ancient wonder was once forgotten and inaccessible. That is no longer the case. That mystical place from the Ghost Channel – I mean, Travel Channel – and thousands of internet photos is not really that place anymore. The scene of a mysterious temple lost in the jungle is no more. Prepare yourself for being with thousands of other people. Yes, there are ways to limit interruption from crowds, but you will not be wandering alone.

Let this serve as a warning, not a deterrent. Rather than be disappointed by the crowds, expect, manage and prepare to see Angkor Wat and the other temples of Angkor in the best possible way that it is today. There’s no way to avoid the crowds at Angkor Wat in the twenty-first century.

Use the tips here and elsewhere to help ensure that you have the best possible experience. Angkor Wat and the other temples around should be on every travel bucket list. Hopefully this helps when it comes time to check it off.

« Previous Page