Hangry Backpacker

What Happened to Travel Television?

January 16, 2019 By Hangry Backpacker 11 Comments

Travel television is dead. Am I missing something? Do American viewers really enjoy the trash that has become normal programming on television?

This is not a rant about the creatures of Jersey Shore or the repulsive Kardashians, no matter how well-deserved that may be. That sort of crap is here to stay. I get it. This is a rant about travel television, or lack thereof.

What happened to travel television? Growing up, I used to watch the Travel Channel for hours on end. Yes, as a child, I loved watching shows about travel. I would sit in awe, learning about fascinating places around the world. I specifically recall the first time I saw a show about Angkor Wat and couldn’t believe such an historic place was never mentioned in school. [Read more…] about What Happened to Travel Television?

Kep: Sleepy, Seaside Cambodia

January 12, 2019 By Hangry Backpacker Leave a Comment

Kep is a largely forgotten Cambodian town that does not receive a lot of attention. When it comes to traveling Cambodia, Kep is not a famous destination, so how do travelers end up in Kep? And what should you expect before finding yourself in this corner of Cambodia?

After a month backpacking in Vietnam, zig-zagging my way from Hanoi to Ho Chi Minh City, Cambodia was the next destination. For years, visiting the Temples of Angkor was high on my travel bucket list. But first, I had to see other parts of the country.

Looking for a place to kill a few days before heading to Phnom Penh for an airport pickup, Kep continued to come up in conversation about Cambodia.

Kep is a small village on the coast of Cambodia. It is known mostly for its crab market and as a place to escape people.

Onward, to Kep!

Travel in Cambodia is difficult. Sometimes you have to go backwards to go forward in a different direction. Recognizing the upcoming transportation frustration – and that I would be traveling to Phnom Penh a few times over the next month – and with recommendations from several other travelers, backpackers and expats to go to Kep, I relented.

Seaside Kep, Cambodia was described to me as a cool, hippie-like fishing village on the sea. The words “sleepy” and “forgotten” came up more than once. Some claims even say Kep is experiencing a “resurgence.”

With these positive endorsements, there was no further need of convincing. The decision was to spend a few days in sleepy, seaside Kep. I took a van from the post office in Phnom Penh – odd yes, but it’s a meeting point for some reason. It was a slow trip. Although only about 100 miles apart, it took over five hours. At least it was cheap (about $7 USD).

As it happens, Kep is very much fitting of the descriptions I was given. And while many travelers long for a sleepy escape, to explore the forgotten or experience the early days of resurgence, sometimes these descriptors are not the idealistic wonderland of our minds.

The Good Kep

The good parts of Kep are undeniable. The village is in the perfect location for relaxing or a mental reset. Whether it’s watching the sunset atop the sea wall, enjoying a walk around the quiet seaside town or forgetting about time in the jungle, Kep is a great place in Cambodia to slow down and disappear.

If relaxing in a hammock is your thing – near the sea or in a jungle tree – Kep has the time and place for you to chill. And it is a satisfactory break from Southeast Asia’s big cities.

The crab market is the most popular tourist draw in Kep. Fisherman and crabbers bring their catch right up to the market where prices are negotiated. For anyone in search of fresh seafood, there is no doubt that Kep is a catch.

In addition to crabs, the fresh catch includes fish, prawns, squid and more. There are several restaurants next to the crab market along the sea. The freshness is unquestionable and the smells are intoxicating. The food is pretty damn good, but the prices are not. You’re better off ordering and eating directly at the market. Just make sure to get something freshly-cooked so you don’t get sick.

When it comes to food in Cambodia, Kep is home to some of the best. The freshness is obvious and the cooks are capable. Considering tourists and the seaside location, prices are better at restaurants in town away from the crab market.

The Bad Kep

Kep is sleepy. The petrol and mechanic station on the side of the road (below) is an accurate indicator of how the village is forgotten.

Still, you’re reading that this village is so sleepy and calm that life crawls at a pleasant pace. That seems like a good thing, right? In some ways, yes, but, unfortunately, as a traveler, you will be severely limited on what you can do to fill your days in Kep.

Note: I am the kind of traveler who enjoys city chaos as much as I enjoy the silence and tranquility of being in the middle of nowhere.

For backpackers in Cambodia, Kep has severe limitations. The beach is nothing special, especially in comparison to some of Cambodia’s Utopian islands. The surrounding nature is nice, but not much different than elsewhere in Coastal Cambodia.

Kep lacks other important establishments for backpackers and independent travelers found in Cambodia. There is not much in the way of a mini-mart, which is essential for backpackers in Southeast Asia. There is also nothing close to an affordable bar. What kind of place is noted as a sleepy, seaside town and lacks an equally sleepy (and affordable) seaside bar? The bars next to the crab market (restaurants, too) are grossly overpriced, catering to the visitors in nearby resorts.

There’s no need for anything crazy, but this is a big miss in forgotten Kep. The backpacker market is much stronger and wealthier than most municipalities realize. If Kep was a little more backpacker-friendly, the positive economic impact on the town would be significant.

Travelers must turn to the town market and restaurants for their needs. Unfortunately, the town market in Kep closes in the early evening. Most restaurants are also not open late, and prices are inflated. The result is that many backpackers will spend a disproportionate amount of time at hostels and guesthouses. This is a great chance to meet travelers, but quickly becomes a more expensive stay.

The Real Kep

The real Kep is a town that is forgotten but quietly resurging. This is thanks, in large part, to the burgeoning tourist industry. There are traces of what was once an exclusive, wealthy corner of Cambodia. That is not the case today.

The shining beacon of today’s Kep are a few upscale resorts. These resorts are modern, new and a nice place to relax for comfort-minded travelers. To say these are not backpacker haunts is an understatement. Prices are simply obnoxious.

Sadly, these resorts are far away from the main village center, and, like most shiny enterprises in Cambodia, are likely owned by foreigners. Thus, the economic impact on the local area is limited.

The real Kep, Cambodia is not resurging. It is struggling. The few restaurants around have great food, but the lack of infrastructure is prohibitive. And the tendency of resort-dwellers is to not stray very far, which leaves fewer spoils for the local populace.

Overall, while forgotten Kep is a town that is lacking for backpackers, travelers with higher budgets can enjoy the “resurgence” of the area (and the food) in comfort.

Also, watch out for the monkeys (technically, they’re macaques). These vicious little bastards will turn on you in an instant.

What’s the Big Deal about Kep?

Why are travelers drawn to a place with limited everything? I have no idea.

While it is entirely possible that I missed the delight in Kep, it is hard to see how. In such a tiny place, it is fairly easy to cover a lot in a few days. Perhaps for someone specifically seeking a jungle escape, or a person looking to reset themselves and get in touch with some astrological nonsense (there really are a few of these “retreats” in Kep), this may be the place.

From an honest perspective, there is very little reason to stay in Kep for most backpackers. Perhaps in the future, when the resurgence is finally underway and Chinese businesses drive all other tourists from the rest of Cambodia, Kep will become a destination in its own right. In the meantime, a day trip from Kampot is perfectly adequate.

Kep does have potential. It is very likely that this part of Cambodia will continue to grow and, soon enough, will be host to hordes of backpackers.

In some ways, selfishly, I’ll admit, I hope this does not happen. Kep may not be a prime backpacker destination, but it is perfect the way it is right now: sleepy and forgotten.

Eating Louisiana: Lasyone’s Meat Pies

December 25, 2018 By Hangry Backpacker 1 Comment

Eating in Louisiana is a pastime. Secret recipes are family heirlooms. Food is a significant part of the culture, but the locals don’t see it that way. For Louisianians, food is a celebrated part of life. And if it is going to be such a big part of life, why waste time eating food that sucks? Food in the Bayou State is world-renowned for a reason.

With such importance placed on good eating from an early age, the outcome is an abundance of great food and places to dine. Choosing where to eat is the hard part. [Read more…] about Eating Louisiana: Lasyone’s Meat Pies

Things to Do in Kuala Lumpur

December 15, 2018 By Hangry Backpacker 1 Comment

Travel to Malaysia and its capital city, Kuala Lumpur (KL), has become a popular destination for backpackers and travelers of all kinds in recent years. Thoughts of Malaysia and KL invoke ideas of an exotic place, but these ideas could not be further from reality.

Kuala Lumpur is more than the capital and largest city of Malaysia. Kuala Lumpur is a global, modern city whose economic prominence makes it an interesting and attractive destination for business travelers. But there are reasons beyond business to visit KL. What exactly should travelers do in Kuala Lumpur?

Here are several of my personal favorite things to do when visiting Kuala Lumpur:

Menara Kuala Lumpur (KL Tower)

The KL Tower stands high above the city, highlighting the skyline along with the Petronas Towers. The world’s 7th tallest tower, the KL Tower is the perfect place for a panorama view of Malaysia’s capital.

The observation deck is a wraparound balcony that offers striking views of Kuala Lumpur. Miles and miles of city with skyscrapers and mountains in the distance fill the scene. The KL Tower is one of the best structures in the world for a city view.

The Petronas Towers, a national symbol of Malaysia, are best seen from the KL Tower. Once the world’s tallest buildings, the Petronas Towers loom over Kuala Lumpur, yet are best viewed from the observation deck of the KL Tower.

The observation deck has two “skydecks,” glass boxes that jut out over the ground. A popular feature among the world’s tallest structures, the eastern skydeck of the KL Tower is the most popular. The line can be long for a couple of minutes in the glass cube, but the scene behind lends a fantastic photo. If heights instill fear, I suggest it best to avoid this photo. In fact, acrophobics may want to avoid the KL Tower altogether.

For more fearless travelers, the KL Tower is a top attraction in Kuala Lumpur. The only drawback is the admission price. The listed prices are as high as 66 Malaysian ringgits (MYR), about $15 USD. However, for some reason, I was charged 105 MYR, about $25 USD, at the ticket office on site. To avoid price gouging, purchase your tickets online before visiting the KL Tower.

KL Forest Eco Park

Near the base of the KL Tower lies one of Kuala Lumpur’s treats. The KL Forest Eco Park is a glimpse into what the area that is now a massive metropolis may have looked like hundreds of years ago. The information center provides analysis of the area’s flora and fauna. It is a perfect place for kids and those of us with a deep-rooted curiosity of natural life.

In a city filled with traffic, people and skyscrapers at every turn, the KL Forest Eco Park serves as more than a much needed break from the surrounding madness. The park is a reminder of what used to be. Much of Malaysia is still very rugged and rural, with mountains and rainforests aplenty. However, with economic prosperity comes physical growth and urban sprawl.

Areas once home to rainforests and exotic wildlife (some now extinct) are now jungles of concrete. Not that I would ever suggest, not even for a moment, that a people should hold themselves back and stifle economic growth, healthcare advances and general improvements in quality of life. But it is important to understand the impact of growth and booming industry to see the repercussions on God’s green Earth.

The KL Forest Eco Park is helpful in understanding the need to protect and preserve areas responsibly, all while maintaining growth and prosperity. For travelers, the park is an escape. Walking through the park is surreal on a canopy walkway leading through the treetops. Birds are chirping and insects creeping through the more-than-100-year-old preserve.

Enjoy a few hours’ escape from the hustle of megalopolis life, and take a trip into the past walking through this old forest.

The Epicenter of Southeast Asian Malls?

Malaysians love their malls. Seriously, there is no shortage of shopping malls in the country. Naturally, as the capital and largest city, Kuala Lumpur is the epicenter of shopping in the country.

Personally, I loathe this kind of shopping. There are few ideas in my mind so miserable as a day spent perusing racks of insultingly expensive clothes and the latest trends. And yet, I am simultaneously fascinated by malls. The planning, marketing and structures invoke a curiosity and fascination. The bright lights, pleasant music and perfect temperatures have an intoxicating effect on even the most stubborn shopper – me.

For shopping addicts, label-lovers or the fashion-obsessed, Kuala Lumpur is a city you must visit. There are regular malls, luxurious malls featuring bejeweled stilettos in cases, shopping malls with roller coasters and entire malls dedicated to electronics. Whatever the imagination can conjure up and throw into a multi-story megamall can be found in Kuala Lumpur.

An important tip for travelers on a retail-therapy mission: Malaysian malls are not any cheaper than at home, so don’t expect much in the way of incredible deals. Don’t expect knock off goods for a quarter of the price. Everything is authentic in quality and price.

The malls of Kuala Lumpur are not made solely for travelers and tourists. Shopping malls have become a huge part of Malaysian culture, and this is why you should visit a couple when you travel to Kuala Lumpur – as strange as it sounds, malls are a big part of the local culture.

Another bonus of having so many malls in KL is to escape the weather. Malaysia is very hot and rainy. One minute it is sunny and hot. Moments later, a torrential downpour is soaking every square inch of you, from head to toe. A few minutes later and the sun is back out, somehow even hotter than before. A giant, climate-controlled oasis – yeah, the malls – can be the perfect escape from the elements outside.

Merdeka Square – Historic Center of Kuala Lumpur

Travel to Kuala Lumpur is not complete without a visit to the historic City Center. Merdeka Square is the most important historical location in KL.

In a country with an abundance of stunning architecture, the Sultan Abdul Samad Buidling is perhaps the most beautiful structure in the country. Formerly housing the government offices of Colonial Malaya, other government departments call it home today.

Visiting Merdeka Square is an opportunity to view some of the most beautiful architecture in Kuala Lumpur. Sure, the KL and Petronas Towers are more famous and visible from across the city, but the buildings in this historic square are more impressive. The square is a curious blend of British and Malayan. The former cricket grounds are now a place to relax and pose for pictures, with the surrounding buildings now host to museums and galleries.

Merdeka Square is an important location in the history of Malaysia. Today, the square is one of the most beautiful areas of KL and is a top stop during any travel to Kuala Lumpur.

Street Art

Malaysia is famous for street art. Personally, I’ve never been to a country with more interesting, widespread street art that that in Malaysia. Kuala Lumpur has it’s share of pretty, famous and free art.

Street art in Kuala Lumpur is not fixated on a certain street or specific area. It’s kind of anywhere and everywhere. Chinatown has some interesting works, some of which are 3-D and incorporate tangible objects along in front of the canvas (wall). Otherwise, you just have to wander in the city, and you will eventually come across a colorful street, a repurposed bicycle or an entire building-turned-work-of-art.

The most famous place for street art in Kuala Lumpur is on Jalan Alor. In Bukit Bintang (the main, central district in the city), there are several streets in the area that have been completely painted and transformed. Former back alleys now look like scenes from Dr. Seuss books. Others are bright colors and even have clouds hanging. The street art in Kuala Lumpur (Malaysia as a whole, really) is phenomenal. Backpackers who enjoy wandering as I do will be delighted in the surprises around random corners.

KL Chinatown

Kuala Lumpur’s Chinatown is the famous historic center of the local Chinese population. While KL does not have a particular architecture that dominates the city – it’s a peculiar and beautiful blend of many influences – Chinatown has a distinctly Chinese look and feel. This is the area to visit to find Chinese restaurants, shops and markets.

The main street of Chinatown, Petaling Street, is a pedestrian street of strange stuff and cheap junk. I mean, if you need a jacket, sunglasses, a pair of flip flops or an umbrella with children’s cartoons on it, this is the place. Or, if you want to find some of that famous, unusual Southeast Asian food, this is the best bet in the center of Kuala Lumpur.

Otherwise, Chinatown is rather touristic these days. There is supposedly a flea market in the neighborhood, but I was unable to distinguish any of the junk as new junk or slightly more interesting old junk.

The only reason to visit Chinatown in Kuala Lumpur is to eat. The food here is good. And cheap. There are some cool side streets in the area that are interesting, but Petaling Street is not.

Ain Arabia

Ain Arabia (Little Arabia to me) is one of my favorite places in Kuala Lumpur. Historically, this neighborhood wasn’t Arabian by any stretch, but several years ago that began to change. Today, the few blocks around Ain Arabia, noted by a large gate signifying the entrance to the neighborhood, are an interesting look into the diversity of KL.

Essentially Ain Arabia is a busy street in Bukit Bintang. The street has a large Middle Eastern influence, from shops to food, with the local Middle Eastern population inhabiting much of the nearby buildings. The name of the nearby park translates to Arabian Park and acts as a sort of neighborhood meeting point for the local Middle Eastern population.

My favorite part about Little Arabia is the cheap food. In fact, there are two shawarma shops to note – Halab Gate and Al-Siddiq. Each has super affordable food (perfect for backpackers) that is incredible. I’ve eaten shawarma and doner in dozens of countries around the world, and these are two of the absolute best I’ve ever enjoyed.

Eating in Kuala Lumpur

Kuala Lumpur is a diverse city, home to large numbers of Malayans, Chinese, Indians and others. The religious component is equally diverse. While Malaysia is a majority-Muslim country, KL has a broader representation of religions. There are also sizable populations of Buddhists, Hindus and Christians.

What do demographics have to do with eating? Everything.

The diversity in Kuala Lumpur is a golden buffet for hungry travelers. The variety of food in Kuala Lumpur is extraordinary. Chinese, Halal and Indian fare come together to create a city with phenomenal food.

Mamak (Indian Muslim) food is perhaps the best. There are endless options for Mamak food in KL. Walking down the street, you will see what look like buffets with crowds and colorful food. Choose one of these restaurants and you are sure to enjoy fantastic food.

In a hot and humid climate – in all of Southeast Asia – food safety should be a consideration. For health concerns, choose a restaurant in KL that is busy to ensure freshness. Kuala Lumpur is indeed a modern city, but standards of freshness and cleanliness are still lacking on a street level. There is no cause for concern if you choose wisely.

For traditional food, try nasi lemak, the national dish of Malaysia. Nasi lemak is a rice dish that comes in countless varieties, my favorite being that served with fried chicken, egg and sauces that may forever remain foreign to me, both in name and substance.

Local food in Kuala Lumpur is not expensive. In spite of pricey accommodation, high-end shopping and international foods, local restaurants are affordable for budget travelers. When in doubt, eat local.

The main drawback to dining in Kuala Lumpur is the beer. Southeast Asia is known for cheap beer, but this is not the case in Malaysia. Low quality, mass-production brews are more expensive than in the West. Beer is available, but you will pay a steep price.

Travelers often skip Kuala Lumpur in favor of other Southeast Asian destinations. However, it is a cheaper alternative to Singapore and a cleaner choice than Bangkok.

These tips will help guide you through Kuala Lumpur and enhance your travel wandering. The modernness of the city is surprising for many travelers. The cosmopolitan structure leads to world class eating, and the city is a perfect landing spot to explore Malaysia and beyond.

Five Tips for Visiting Seoul, South Korea

December 10, 2018 By Hangry Backpacker Leave a Comment

Travel to Seoul is much more than simply visiting the capital of South Korea. Seoul is a megacity – one of the world’s largest – and the center of politics, history, culture and cuisine in the Republic of Korea.

There is more to Seoul than being another huge Asian metropolis. The city, blending local traditions with influences from across the world, is an excellent destination for travelers seeking a destination of fun and food.

Seoul is a modern city with glimpses of Korea’s ancient history, serving delicious food in between. Here are five fun tips for travel to South Korea’s capital: [Read more…] about Five Tips for Visiting Seoul, South Korea

Pack Light, Pack Right: The Little Things

December 3, 2018 By Hangry Backpacker 2 Comments

The difficulty in packing light intensifies when it comes time to load up the little things. These odds and ends quickly multiply.

When the goal is to pack light and avoid cluttering your backpack, it is hard to determine exactly what small items are necessary to pack while not weighing yourself down.

Items such as serious medications and money are easy decisions, but the process is more complex. After you’ve loaded your backpack with clothes, it’s time to fill in some of the empty spaces. What extras should be carried for the next few months? [Read more…] about Pack Light, Pack Right: The Little Things

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What Happened to Travel Television?