Tapas in Granada

Eating tapas in Granada is one of the best parts about visiting this city in southern Spain. Granada welcomes millions of visitors each year, with most looking to visit the famous Alhambra complex. Beneath several noteworthy layers of history in Granada, food in the city is a blend of it all and an enticing layer to explore.

Tapas in Spain are a culinary institution, a tasty part of life. Tapas in Granada are unique. The culture of tapas in Granada provides an excellent opportunity for travelers to catch a glimpse of local life and get a true taste of Andalusia.

What’s So Special about Tapas in Granada?

What sets tapas in Granada apart from elsewhere in Spain? It’s simple. First, they’re free. Second, it’s a significant part of local food culture. Third, and most importantly, they are delicious.

In the past, free tapas were far more common. Today, most places in Spain charge for tapas, but Granada is one of the last holdouts serving free food with drinks. There is nothing better than filling up on great food after wandering the hilly streets of Granada.

With each round of drinks, so comes a small plate of food. What I love about Granada is that you rarely need to splurge for full meals, just drinks. Granted, if your stay in Granada is longer than a few nights, those drinks may start to add up. Fortunately, you can get your fill of tapas even with moderate consumption. 

The cultural value of tapas in Granada is an added benefit for travelers. For locals, it’s not only about getting drunk and eating. In Andalusia (South of Spain), people do tapas, rather than eat tapas. This simply refers to tapas as more than the food itself. To do tapas is to make an event out of it, to socialize and enjoy the company of others.

By far the most important aspect of tapas in Granada is the indisputable fact that they are delicious. As a backpacker, free food is always welcome. It means I can save money or splurge elsewhere. In Granada, a beer comes with a plate of fantastic food. It’s a win-win. Tasty and free. 

Are They Really Free?

This is a matter of interpretation of “free.” Technically, yes, tapas in Granada are usually free – there is no additional charge for the small plate of food. But some argue that the cost of the food is built into the price of the drink. 

In my experiences in Andalusia, drinks are slightly more expensive in Granada. That being said, I can confidently say that I could eat and drink my fill for one night with about 10 euros. In a local spot in Granada, that 10 euros buys 4-5 rounds, each with a plate of tapas. Elsewhere in Andalusia – excluding coastal locations, where costs are generally higher – the drinks may be cheaper but tapas are not always free. 

In comparison to Madrid, Granada is very cheap. Free tapas exist in Madrid, but they are not nearly as common. The cost of the “free” food is clearly considered in Madrid. At one local bodega in Madrid, I was surprised to receive a generous helping of food with a pint of beer. When the bill for that pint came in at nearly 6 euros, it was clear the tapas were not really free.

Free tapas in Granada may come with an asterisk and slightly more expensive drinks. This balances out compared to other places in Andalusia, but still makes the city a cheaper destination than cities like Madrid.

Common Tapas in Granada

There’s no set rule for what is served with your drink. In many places in Granada, the tapas customers receive depends on what the kitchen has available. And some restaurants consistently serve better, larger tapas than others. Finding the places with the best quality and most generous portions is merely a matter of searching. However, after finding an especially good place, it can be difficult to continue that search.

Tapas can range from something as simple as a plate of olives or potato chips – snacks of this sort are customary throughout Spain – to a bowl of stew with bread. In Granada, some of the tapas I ate included fried fish, soup, olives, ham, croquettes and even sandwiches. 

It doesn’t matter where you are in Spain, jamón (ham) is eaten anywhere at anytime. The Spanish love affair with their delectable ham is equally strong in Granada, as it is the most prevalent component of tapas. Admittedly, I can hardly tell the difference between higher and lower quality Spanish ham. I understand there are differences (ibérico, serrano, etc.), but my palette is often unable to taste the particular disparities. To me, it is all exquisite.

Order the Caña

Tapas come with your drink in Granada regardless of what that drink is. It doesn’t matter if you order a glass of expensive wine, a gin and tonic or a beer. The only thing that affects the tapas served in Granada is the number of people in your group. Each drink generally comes with one serving of food.

The smartest thing to do is order the caña. A caña is a small beer. The size varies at every restaurant and bar, but it typically comes in around 8-10 oz. It’s not quite equivalent to a can of beer. The benefit of ordering a caña is that it still comes with a plate of tapas. Yes, it’s smaller, but it’s also cheaper. The caña is the perfect companion to tapas. 

Locals also tend to drink cañas. While the pint is the standard volume of beer in the US and UK, the caña reigns supreme in Granada. Do as the locals do. Enjoy some tapas. Order a caña.

When is the Best Time for Tapas in Granada?

The local custom for tapas in Granada, and all of Spain in my experience, is to eat late. The stereotype of the siesta seems to be true. The middle of the day and early evening is pretty quiet, with many restaurants, bars and shops closing for a few hours. 

If you are hungry in the middle of the day, by all means, find a bar or restaurant. Order a caña, and enjoy some tapas. Granada is big enough (and touristy enough) that there will still be plenty of places open. 

For the full Granada experience, yes, go for tapas later in the evening. Personally, I don’t care. The late-night frenzy in Granada is fun to experience once or twice. After that, I prefer to keep more familiar hours. Many travelers find it difficult to adapt to eating later anyway, especially if your trip is not a lengthy one. If you are hungry, eat! 

Where are the Best Tapas in Granada?

That’s a loaded question. Various travel websites will certainly have lists of the “highest rated” restaurants for tapas in Granada, but I don’t put any stock into that. Not only are these lists often highly unreliable and easily manipulated, they aren’t right about the food here. 

Spain has great food. Granada has great food. The many restaurants in Granada offer locals and tourists a lot of options. Some places may be better than others, but everything is going to be pretty damn good.

If you’re still hesitant to stop in any restaurant that you pass by, look for a place with crowds of locals. That’s always an easy rule to follow, but I do have a few recommendations:

Los Diamantes

Los Diamantes is a very popular place for tapas in Granada. This little hole in the wall specializes in seafood tapas and is packed with locals on a nightly basis. Platefulls of boquerones (tiny fried fish), mounds of steamed mussels, scallops, prawns, dogfish and more creatures of the sea are common tapas served at Los Diamantes. If seafood is not your thing, Los Diamantes is not the place for you. They serve non-seafood tapas, but you usually cannot request your free plate of food. It doesn’t work like that.  

The fascinating thing about Los Diamantes, especially as someone who spent several years in the restaurant industry, is the efficient operation. At first glance, this place seems to be in utter chaos. It is so densely packed with thirsty Spaniards that, once you have a spot to stand, moving to another is a challenge. But the bartenders and kitchen staff work like machines and never miss a beat. Of course, this is during peak hours at night. The bar is much more spacious earlier in the day.

Los Diamantes has a second location. The name is misleading, though. The second location, Bar Los Diamantes, is more of a sit-down dining restaurant, and Los Diamantes is actually more of a bar.

Bodegas Castañeda

My favorite place for tapas in Granada is Bodegas Castañeda. This bar is located right in the middle of the old town, just around the corner from Plaza Nueva. Bodegas Castañeda appears like the kind of place that would be a tourist trap. The decor, complete with dangling hams, bulls, barrels and plenty of seasoned wood, is exactly what one might expect for a fabricated Granada tapas bar designed to bring in tourists. However, this place is the real deal.

Bodegas Castañeda has fantastic tapas, and this is also a good place if you want to sit down for a full meal in Granada. If you can find an open table. Bodegas Castañeda is fairly busy during the daytime, and it is packed at night. A few tourists visit Bodegas Castañeda during the afternoon. Even with a location in the heart of the touristy area of Granada, the crowd is dominated by locals.

If I had to recommend one bar or restaurant for a tourist to visit in Granada, Bodegas Castañeda is that place. The atmosphere is unbeatable, and the tapas are excellent.

Anywhere!

Tapas are a deep-rooted part of the culture in Granada, more so than many other places in Spain. Even when ordering an entree, an additional plate of tapas arrives with your drink. The great part about the caña is that it is small. You can try several restaurants and bars, thoroughly searching for the best tapas, without getting too intoxicated. 

In Granada, there are bound to be restaurants with subpar tapas. The only way to find out for sure is to be the guinea pig and eat. During my time in Granada, I tried the tapas at dozens of places. Yes, I ate a lot, and it was all great. There are places to which I would not go back, but only based on the prices or skimpy portions compared to other establishments. Every plate of tapas I ate was delicious.

Tapas in Granada – Local or Tourist?

Is eating tapas in Granada another tourist charade, or is it genuinely a local pastime? The real answer is yes. Bars in Granada attract plenty of tourists looking for a taste of Spanish cuisine, but there are easily more locals than tourists on any given day. Eating tapas in Granada attracts tourists, but it is also a major part of the local culture. So, yes, tapas in Granada is a local and touristy event.

If you’re worried about getting trapped in a touristy restaurant, take a quick survey of the guests. Locals in Granada typically do tapas standing up. I freely admit, as an American who prefers the atmosphere in a dim-lit, dark and cozy pub, I prefer to sit and drink my beer, but standing is the local way in Andalusia. Bars with a lot of tables and people sitting are likely more touristy. Naturally, locals sit when they’re out for dinner. For some reason, though, they prefer to stand for tapas.

In the midst of my grazing in Granada, I noticed that the more touristy bars and restaurants serve smaller portions. The tapas at touristy places are less inventive, as well, sticking to simpler things like cheese or jamón with bread.

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Even though tapas in Granada attract a lot of tourists, it doesn’t mean that travelers are stuck with tourist options. Step out of your comfort zone, scramble through the language barrier and join the locals. Order a caña, and enjoy a plate of tapas. Granada has everything. The city is beautiful, and the history is rich. Best of all for hungry travelers, Granada has excellent food. That begins with tapas!