Solo travel is the best way to thoroughly explore and experience Granada, Spain. This is a city that warrants wandering, and it is the perfect place to go alone, get lost and eat.
Granada is one the most popular cities in Spain for tourists, with millions visiting each year. Tourists come for the world-famous historic sites. They stay for the rich food and attractive local culture.
Read the following tips from my solo travel experience in Granada to help navigate your way through the city in the South of Spain. These tips are useful for travelers of all types, as well. Here’s what you need to know before a visit to Granada, Spain:
Contents
What to do in Granada
Wander the Streets of Old Granada
One of the best parts about solo travel in Granada is the freedom to wander. The old city of Granada is a beautiful, photogenic and fun place to explore. A stroll through the heart of the city is like stepping back hundreds of years, visiting an era in Spain’s past.
The neighborhoods of centuries-old buildings are impressively well-preserved and are as lively as ever. Brick and stone streets wind through the city in no sensible fashion, leading to surprises around every corner.
Notable neighborhoods in Granada include: Albaicín, San Pedro, Realejo-San Matias, and Sacromonte. My personal favorite neighborhoods to wander in Granada are San Pedro and Albaicín.
Free from the constraints of structured group tours, solo travel in Granada allows travelers to see more than the highlights and thoroughly delve into the city on a deeper level.
What may seem like a quiet corner of Granada suddenly opens up to a lively square, a vibrant avenue of shopping or a plaza full of restaurants and street performers. You never really know what delights await you when you get lost on the streets of Andalusia.
Wandering the old city of Granada is, in a way, mesmerizing. Tourists wander, enamored with the architecture and distracted by the sounds of the city and the rich smells of fresh food.
Then, suddenly, something comes into view that stops you in your tracks. It might be a massive church dominating a small square. Or an unexpected view of Alhambra looming above. Maybe a lavish fountain. A street of shops more fitting of Marrakech than Spain. Or, perhaps the most difficult realization, it may be another tiny intersection, and deciding which direction to wander is the most difficult decision of the day.
The old city of Granada is fascinating. Tourists are in no short supply, but it’s easy to get lost (in the right way). One street may be packed with souvenir shops and tourist restaurants, but the scene can be the opposite a few steps around the corner. Granada’s historic old neighborhoods are active and exciting, not just traps for tourists. The best thing you can do is explore.
Alhambra of Granada
The Alhambra fortress and palace complex is the most popular and famous attraction in Granada and all of Spain. Millions of tourists visit this beautiful and historically significant site every year.
The Alhambra of Granada attracts an assortment of travelers, from backpackers to tour groups. The site has beautiful gardens, ancient ruins, a fortress and ornate palaces. The site is predominantly Moorish (North African Islamic) in design, with Spanish features as well.
Although it is one of the most famous tourist sites in Spain, visiting Alhambra is not as simple as showing up and buying a ticket. Entrance is limited and most tourists need to buy tickets in advance. I strongly suggest visiting Alhambra of Granada as a solo traveler. The tour groups at the site are a nightmare.
Alhambra is one of the most popular and important historic sites in Spain. The design and detail of the palaces and gardens is simply remarkable. Alhambra also has great views of Granada (more info below). It is the ideal choice to learn and understand the history and culture of this beautiful city, and no trip to Granada is complete without a visit to Alhambra.
Cartuja of Granada
The Cartuja of Granada is a monastery that dates back to the early 1500s. The Cartuja is not historically important, but it is certainly a “wow” place. The interior of the monastery is stunning. It’s that kind of gaudy, wow-the-Church-must-be-rich kind of beauty. While the interior is beautiful, the exterior is ordinary and unassuming.
The Cartuja is located away from most points of interest in the city. It is about 30 minutes walking from the tourist center of the city. This is just far enough that tour groups rarely visit the monastery, but it is an easy add-on for the solo traveler in Granada.
Cheer on CF Granada
If you want to do something local and away from tourists in Granada, or almost anywhere else, consider sporting events. Sports are an integral part of local cultures across the world.
In Spain, soccer (football) is the obvious favorite among sports. Although it is a global sport, most sports fans recognize the importance of the game in Spain.
In Granada, soccer is equally popular. The local team, Granada Club de Futbol (Granada CF), may not be world famous like the clubs in Madrid or Barcelona, but the games are exciting. Locals pack the stadium and yell like maniacs the entire time.
Even if soccer is not your favorite sport, attending live sporting events is always more fun. And there are certainly fewer ways to better immerse oneself than inside a raucous atmosphere of sports fans. Solo travel has an advantage attending a game in Granada. It will be significantly harder for large groups to buy tickets together.
Cathedral of Granada
While Alhambra sits as an historic reminder of the height of Moorish Spain, the Cathedral of Granada is a symbol for the reemergence of a Spanish identity. The Cathedral of Granada was built in the early 1500s in the years after the Spanish regained control of Andalusia from the Moors. The church sits right on top of where the mosque once stood.
Aside from Spanish symbolism and historical importance, the Cathedral of Granada is one of the most popular tourist attractions in the city. The interior of the cathedral is massive and full of ornate sculptures, windows and artwork.
The Cathedral of Granada, in some ways like the Seville Cathedral (albeit for different reasons), is a unique structure. So many famous churches in Europe, though incredible, are largely the same. After visiting dozens of these enormous religious centers, many blur together and few stand out.
Not to take anything away from the grand churches of Europe, but the most impressive part about so many of these structures is their age. The Cathedral of Granada’s unique design, and the way it is sandwiched into the tightly-packed old city, makes the church more interesting than many others.
Eat All the Tapas
There is more info on eating in Granada below, but this is an important point. Eating tapas in Granada is the most important activity for tourists to undertake in the city. For that reason, it is also considered an activity. And there is no better way to enjoy solo travel in Granada than joining in a tasty, friendly and local atmosphere.
Food and drink is an open window to another culture. In Granada, that open window shows tapas. Eating in Andalusia is a delight. Eating tapas is an event to remember.
Tourists who want a deeper travel experience in Granada can easily do so by going tapas-hopping. Every restaurant is different, and the best way to experience local life is to bounce from one bar to another, sipping beer and enjoying delicious small plates.
Viewpoints in Granada
The hills of Granada leave a lot of tourists sweaty and out of breath. The good news for delicate travelers is that these same hills offer fantastic views of the city, Alhambra and the Sierra Nevada Mountains beyond.
Great views can be found all across Granada, and the best view is always the unexpected one. Check out these views for some phenomenal scenery:
Mirador San Nicolas
This is the most popular viewpoint in Granada, where Alhambra appears stoically perched above the city. Mirador San Nicolas includes two areas, and each area is busy.
There is a small park with a few trees at Mirador San Nicolas. This crowd at this park is thick, to say the least. It’s the kind of touristy area where it’s hard to move, and visitors are anxiously waiting for the perfect photo spot to open up.
Adjacent to the park, up a few steps, is a small mosque. The interior of the mosque is open to tourists, and the staff is friendly. Most tourists, however, linger in the garden of the mosque to enjoy the view. The views in the garden are only slightly better than in the park, but the crowd is also a little smaller.
The view of Alhambra from Mirador San Nicolas is excellent. The historic complex is slightly above the elevation at this viewpoint. With the mountains beyond the Alhambra, it’s easy to see why Mirador San Nicolas is so popular. If you want to splurge, there are several restaurants here to enjoy an expensive glass of wine with an unbeatable view.
While I had no issues at Mirador San Nicolas, this is the ideal place for a pickpocket to take advantage of distracted tourists. The view at Mirador San Nicolas is a must-see in Granada, but the crowds are tiresome. This may not be the most appealing place for a backpacker or solo traveler in Granada. Check it off the list and take a few photos, then move on to more relaxing areas.
Mirador de las Carvajales
For a different view of Alhambra, go to Mirador de las Carvajales. This small plaza, tucked away between old buildings and narrow streets, has a view looking up at Alhambra. Most viewpoints tend to look out or over the primary subject, Carvajales offers a unique perspective. In this old area of Granada, where the buildings are so close together, it’s hard to find a good view up and out of Alhambra. Unless you have access to a rooftop, this is the best spot.
Mirador de las Carvajales can be busy on weekends, holidays or pleasant evenings. Most of the time, thankfully, this plaza is not busy. Aside from the occasional tour group, Mirador de las Carvajales is hidden just enough that it’s out of the way. In the San Pedro neighborhood, it is the ideal viewpoint for solo travel wandering in Granada.
Mirador Ojo de Granada
My favorite view in Granada is the Mirador Ojo de Granada. ‘Ojo’ means eye, and this is a fitting name for this viewpoint. There are more encompassing views of the city, but Ojo de Granada isn’t quite as high as others.
This halfway viewpoint, near the more popular Mirador San Nicolas, is high enough to see a large chunk of the old town, cathedral and other prominent buildings. Mirador Ojo de Granada is also low enough so that a normal traveler, one without an ultra-zooming fancy camera, sees the city rather than a bunch of indistinguishable buildings.
Mirador Ojo de Granada has the best view of the old town. It is an excellent place for photographs, taking a mid-hill break with a view and the perfect location to watch the sunset over Granada.
Mirador de San Cristobal
Mirador de San Cristobal is a popular observation deck in Granada. This viewpoint has some good views of the city, and, like the other viewpoints, each is unique. However, for those looking for another great view of Alhambra, this is not the best place. There are buildings and a hill obstructing most of the complex, but visitors to the observation deck will have a decent view of the old city walls.
Mirador de San Cristobal is best, along with the next viewpoint on this list, for the nighttime view of Granada. The city lights up at night. It’s not very noticeable at street level, but these night time views of the glowing city are special.
Mirador de San Miguel Alto
The highest point in Granada, Mirador de San Miguel Alto has unique views of the city in Spain. The panoramic views from the top of this hill are some of the best in the city. The views of the city from this hilltop are worth a visit. Travelers in Granada will be able to see the entire city from the summit, and Alhambra is visible from a different angle, from the east and above rather than below.
Mirador de San Miguel Alto is another great location to catch a sunset over Granada. The only drawback to visiting this viewpoint is the walk. It takes about 30 minutes to reach Mirador de San Miguel Alto from San Nicolas, depending on how well you cope with hills. The payoff is worth it, though. Naturally, the view is excellent, but fewer travelers are willing to make the effort and less people at the viewpoint is another benefit of solo travel in Granada.
Torre de la Vela
The Torre de la Vela is the highest tower of the Alcazaba, the fortress of Alhambra. The Alcazaba of Granada may not be the most spectacular part of Alhambra, but the tower and its views are clearly the highlight of the fortress.
While the Torre de la Vela has the best view that does not include the tower itself, there are great views all around the Alcazaba. The fortress walls are excellent places to view the hills and neighborhoods of Granada below and in the distance.
The tower may appear to be tall, but the climb is easy. Rest assured. The walk up the hill to Alhambra is the hard part, and visitors can quickly climb the tower steps. Enjoying the view of Granada from the Alcazaba tower requires the Alhambra ticket for access.
Eating & Drinking in Granada
Granada is an underrated culinary destination in Spain. Eating anywhere in Andalusia is a great way to take part in local life. From tapas to pastries, the food is fantastic. Perhaps the only disadvantage of solo travel in Granada is not having several plates of food to try. I suggest making some friends or ordering a lot of food to sample as much as possible.
Jamón
Eating in Granada begins the same way as it does in all of Spain – it starts with jamón (Spanish ham). Racks of hanging hams adorn the walls of nearly every bar, restaurant and market. For a lot of foreigners (myself included), all jamón is good. The varieties have varying flavor profiles, but it is hard to know the precise differences with limited exposure.
The way to truly learn and understand ham in Granada and the rest of Spain is to start eating. Granada has great ham, and like many other places in Spain, locals will claim they have the best. That is an argument better suited for a Spaniard. All I will say is eat the jamón, as much as you can.
Eating Tapas in Granada
Tapas are the most famous eating activity in the city. Tapas in Granada deserve this attention. As one of the last places in Spain serving free tapas with each drink, going out for tapas is a memorable experience.
If there is a single important tip for solo travel in Granada, it is to experience the world of tapas. Though popular with tourists, this is an important part of local culture. Locals love their tapas and engage in the practice with glee. Crowds pack the bars for tapas daily. Don’t worry about being a tourist or not fitting in, just order a cerveza. And don’t worry about a rowdy atmosphere. These bars are happy places. Read the Hangry Backpacker’s guide to tapas in Granada for more information.
Cheap Eats in Granada
Eating in Spain is fairly inexpensive in general. Eating in Granada is even cheaper than most of Spain.
There are expensive options for eating in Granada, but it is foolish to pay a lot of money for a meal. The timeless tourist rule is in full effect. If there are a lot of tourists at a restaurant in the middle of the touristy area, get the hell out of there! Almost always, this means overpriced and inferior food.
Delicious, fresh and local food is cheap. Of course, going for tapas is always the easiest option. What’s better than eating for free while drinking? Aside from that, normal restaurants in the city are not expensive.
I’m not talking about living off of fast food – I have to admit, though, Kabab King has some of the best döners I’ve ever had – local restaurants are great. A tasty meal of decent proportion in Granada should cost no more than 10€. Including the tip. Seriously, you can eat well with a drink for less than 10€. Locals don’t pay that much for a normal meal, so why should you?
If eating like a stingy backpacker is the primary concern in Granada, that’s fine. There are plenty of quick, super cheap options for backpackers and budget travelers. Tostadas (large, open-face toasted sandwiches – see above photo) are delicious and usually a few euros at most. If any surplus in the budget is intended for drinking, go for tapas.
The only places in Granada that can justify price surcharges are the hillside restaurants with spectacular views. Aside from these restaurants where travelers pay for the view, stick to tapas and local food. It’s easy, delicious and affordable.
Pastries in Granada
Eating through Spain is a tasty way to explore. It is also confusing. The regional differences in cuisine are apparent, but the confusing part is that there are further differences between neighboring municipalities.
Granada is no exception to the confusing web of Spanish food. Regions, cities and towns across the country claim to be the home of this dish or origin of that recipe. Granada, probably to the chagrin of another town, claims to be the home of some fantastic pastries.
There are small bakeries (panaderias) and cake shops (pastelerias) on almost every street in the city center. Visiting these shops is one of the best parts of eating in Granada and should be a daily part of any itinerary.
The most famous sweet treats to eat in Granada are pestiños, otherwise known as “angel’s wings.” Pestiños are little bits of dough, fried in olive oil and doused in sugar. Pestiños originate as simple seasonal treats, but they are readily available in shops year-round today.
Piononos are another famous sweet eat that originate in Granada. I had no idea what a pionono was, but I kept seeing them in panaderia windows. This dessert comes in varying sizes, from (the normal) bite-size to large enough for a few people.
Piononos have the consistency of a fluffy cinnamon roll, but these spirals of bliss are buttery, syrupy and creamy, with a perfect little crunch of caramelized sugar.
Eventually, I could stand it no more. This is one of the best decisions you can make in Granada. Eat a pionono (or a few). No, it’s not healthy. That’s not important here.
My knowledge of Spanish is minimal, but I was able to procure some local goods by pointing and asking, “de Granada?” This is usually followed by a slew of Spanish at the speed of lightning, mere babble to my monolingual (for now) ears. Fortunately, the Spanish is accompanied with additional pointing. Doing my best to confirm there were no tree nuts (thanks to an inconvenient food allergy, even though tree nuts are not extremely common in Spanish food), I always succeeded in finding plenty of delectable, native sweets.
Language barriers can be frustrating. However, the excitement of navigating local life, especially when it comes to food, is a fun part of solo travel in Granada.
Drinking in Granada
Drinking is part of life in Spain. In Granada, nothing pairs better with tapas than a cold beer. Specifically, the best pairing is a caña. A caña is a small beer, a little less than a can. Cañas are cheap, too, usually not more than 2€. A pint or half-liter, not necessarily double the volume of a caña, is often at least double the price.
Spain has a lot of good craft beer, but it isn’t widely available. Most bars serve the regional brew. In Granada, the regional brew is Cervezas Alhambra. Naturally, Alhambra beer is owned by a larger mass-brewer. Despite that, the formula is right for a cold one in the Andalusian city. Cervezas Alhambra is available pretty much everywhere. More popular national brands, such as Mahao and Estrella, are less common.
Spain has great wine. I am not ashamed to say that my knowledge of wine is currently lacking in expertise, but I can confidently say that Spanish wine is excellent. There isn’t much in the way of local wine in the immediate area of Granada, but the greater region has a lot. Andalusia is home to famous sherry and white wines. A notable rum comes from the Granada region, as well; however, it is not common in the city from what I saw.
On a non-alcoholic note, the water in Granada is perfectly safe to drink. Throughout the city there are drinking fountains. These fountains may appear decorative, but are intended as a place to collect drinking water (presumably from a time in the past when indoor plumbing was suspect). The water from these fountains is potable, so refill your water bottle rather than buying another.
Eating Vegan or Vegetarian in Granada
As far as eating vegan or vegetarian in Granada, the best advice I can give to veggie travelers is a half-hearted “good luck.”
Spanish food is excellent. As a food-focused traveler, Spain is one of the most delightfully surprising culinary scenes in my travels thus far. Ignorantly, I did not realize Spanish food was so good. And I certainly had no idea that meat is so prevalent in Spanish cuisine.
All of that being said, vegetarian options exist in Granada. The Spanish diet isn’t as meaty as an American football tailgate, but there always seems to be some kind of meat in or around every dish.
Vegetarians will not get the full authentic taste of Granada, but there are options. Many vegetable dishes use olive oil instead or butter or shortening, so there is some hope for veggie travelers. And, if all else fails, eat some olives.
Transportation for Solo Travel in Granada
Granada is a walkable city. Most tourist interests are in the old town, and this area is easily accessible for travelers fit enough for a bit of walking. The only challenge for some may be the hills, but I find it best to walk the hills as much as possible. After walking the hills of Granada, travelers will certainly have earned an extra pint or two to go with their tapas.
Bus & Metro
If you’re arriving at the bus station (likely on an ALSA bus), the fastest thing to do is take the city bus. The bus platform is right outside the station, and bus number 33 will take travelers into the center of the old city. The trip takes about 20 minutes.
There is also a light rail network, the Granada Metro. Well, sort of. The tram consists of a single line that runs through the city with tram stops and a couple of underground stops. The tram has a stop right outside the bus station, and there are multiple stops in the city center. The metro takes about 15-20 minutes to reach the city center. There are fewer metro stops than bus stops so, depending on the location of your hotel or hostel, additional walking will be required.
Taxis from the bus station to the city center should not cost more than 10€.
Train Station & Airport
Most travelers, especially backpackers, do not arrive in Granada via airplane. However, if you land at the airport, it is easy to reach the city. Buses connect the airport to the city. At 3€, this is the cheapest option. The ride takes about 45 minutes. Taxis from the airport are faster, but cost about 30€.
The train station in Granada is pretty useless. Online schedules are absolutely meaningless. There aren’t very many convenient routes, and the routes that are available aren’t necessarily faster than buses. The train is certainly not cheaper.
Granada’s train station doubles as a second bus station. The inefficiency of Spanish transport (more on that in another post soon) is clear. Most travelers will have to change trains or take a mix of buses and trains to reach the next destination. Nevertheless, I love the scenery and comfort on trains, so I gladly deal with the confusion.
Getting to the train station is simple. Taxis to the train station cost a few euros. The bus, number 4 from the city center, takes about 10 minutes and is cheap.
Walking
Walking is always an option. I debated taking the tram or bus from the bus station and to the train station, but ultimately opted for exercise and saving money. The walk from the bus station to the city center takes at least 45 minutes. Walking to/from the train station to/from the city center takes about 15 minutes. These estimates vary depending on baggage and whether or not you get lost. Naturally, I travel with a backpack, so walking is easier than with traditional luggage.
Granada is one of the most incredible cities I have ever had the pleasure to visit. My arrival began in frustration, but the city has a way of lifting spirits. There are few places in the world like this Andalusian city. As a popular destination for tourists, solo travel is the ideal way to visit Granada.
When in Granada, do as the locals do. Eat tapas. That is the best thing about Granada. It’s the perfect way to enjoy the local culture and understand the surrounding city. Fortunately, tapas are just the start of a visit to Granada, Spain. The rich history, cinemaesque streets and attractive culture in Granada are sure to leave a lasting impact on any traveler. I know I am already planning my return.
The Alhambra is so beautiful ! We actually just showed up and got in, what luck right ?
That’s fantastic luck! Much better than the headache I went through.