Oregon’s Lost Gem

It’s finally that time of year – late Spring/early Summer in the Pacific Northwest. Hiking season is in full swing.

A shower or two will likely pop up and keep the rich, Cascadia earth damp. Not to worry, though. It’s finally warm enough to go outside without layering up and preparing for a soaking-wet adventure. Seasoned hikers have the advantage. Arrive early! Particularly in the Portland area, many others are dragging their feet regretting those final IPAs from last night. Be sure to get up extra early for the sunrise. All is well.

You have chosen Eagle Creek, one of Oregon’s oldest and most beloved trails. It is a favorite due to easy access and magical, picturesque scenes around every corner. Towering waterfalls and steep cliffs? Oh yeah, even better! Setting out from Portland, stopping to take in the sunrise over the Columbia River Gorge with a piping hot black coffee in hand, the day can only get better.

No surprise to you, hardly another is soul in sight when you arrive at the trailhead. Cue the celebrations – you beat the crowds!

“Wake up early and beat the crowds.”

These are words outdoor enthusiasts live by. Nothing spoils a peaceful moment in nature like hordes of people. Usually, the simplest method for avoiding people on the trails is to go where others will not. Sometimes, however, popular places are just that – popular, and for good reason. You should not have to miss out because of others.

Solution! – get there first! If high noon will surely see crowded paths and spoiled waterfalls, “Wake up early and beat the crowds.” You will have the wilderness to yourself. No one will spoil your moment with Mother Nature, because you got there first!

This is the the case with one of Oregon’s most beautiful (and popular) hiking trails. The key to peacefully conquering the Eagle Creek trail, one of the most spectacular hikes in the Columbia River Gorge, is merely a matter of not hitting snooze on Saturday morning. Well… it was.**

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What is the point of spending time in nature with everyone else from the city?

The Columbia River Gorge is a prime example of places that have unparalleled beauty on Earth, often with the crowds to match. That beauty, especially near a nature-obsessed metropolis like Portland, means people. Lots of people. Avoiding people is needed at times, but especially on a hike. When choosing a hike, skipping highly sought-after scenery to avoid the crowds is understandable. Again, what’s the point of spending time in nature with everyone else from the city?

There are exceptions. Eagle Creek in the Gorge is one. This is one of the oldest and most popular hikes in the area. Over a dozen miles (in and out) of relatively easy hiking with waterfalls at nearly every turn. Some of Oregon’s most photographed sites are located here – Punch Bowl Falls is spectacular. And the jaw-dropping Tunnel Falls is the ultimate destination. Yes, it may be a long trek, but every step is worth it.

There are dangerous moments. At several points, the trail is only a few feet wide with a potentially deadly drop a clumsy step away. Despite this, the trail is relatively flat, and after 14 miles (depending how far you decide to go),  you may well be tired. But there are numerous hikes only a few miles long that are far more exhausting. Depending on the time of year, there may even be a creek or two to hop across. The creeks can be frigid with slick rocks, but the water is not deep. All in all, the waterfalls are worth every minute, every heavy breath.

There is one hiccup to Eagle Creek: As mentioned above, this is an old and popular trail. The crowds, which can make things tricky on a narrow path, are easily avoided. If possible, try a weekday. However, most people cannot take a random Tuesday off from work to go commune with the trees. That’s okay, too. One important thing to know about Portland hikers is that most are not early risers. So that’s it – the solution to avoiding the crowds is to start early. Starting your hike early in the morning, not long after dawn, and you are likely to encounter a handful of people at most.

Eagle Creek is highly recommended. There is no need for guilt about recommending a hidden gem, because this secret got out long ago. The key is to arrive EARLY. You can avoid the crowds, enjoy more peace and quiet, and take better photographs.

Also, go (at least) the extra couple of miles and see Twister Falls. It is worth the additional hour or so, and, simply put, this is one of the coolest waterfalls you will ever see.

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**Sadly, this is the tale of a trail you will never experience. Someday in the distant future, if you are lucky enough to see this gem opened to the public again, it will not be the same. In late Summer 2017, carelessness with fireworks on a parched, thirsty trail led to fire. Not just any fire, this wildfire burned over 50,000 acres, scarring the Columbia River Gorge for generations to come. Portland awakened in the following days to an air quality not huffed in decades and a thin coat of ash covering everything.

If we are ever able to visit Tunnel Falls or Punch Bowl falls again, and tip-toe along the cliffs above Eagle Creek, it will be a different setting. The old trees will not be there and the trails will surely wash away soon without trees anchoring them in place. The fate of the numerous falls and the crystal-clear streams is still unknown. The total impact remains to be seen and we can only hope for the best.

Fortunately, most of the Gorge escaped destruction thanks to the firefighters who risked their lives. These brave souls managed to save some of the wonders of the Gorge. Eagle Creek, and many other areas, however, were devastated. Mother Nature will persevere and her beauty will remain constant, long after our bones are reduced to dust. But the Eagle Creek fire, a single moment of ignorance, robbed future outdoorsmen of something truly special and saddened tens of thousands of people. The result, the lasting scars, will serve as evidence and reminders of what once seemed unbreakable and flawless.

Fortunately, no lives were lost in this disaster. This is a heavy reminder in the wake of the tragic California wildfires of 2017.

There comes a time to be forgiving and accepting in the world. When it comes to the fragile ecosystem in public parks and national lands, that is our playground. It belongs to us all, and we should treat it as our very own – selfishly, with pride and care unmatched.

Pack it in, pack it out. Leave no trace. Be aware that you leave behind an impact far greater than a footprint. Think of others, of the future and our precious lands. Minimize your impact.

R.I.P. Eagle Creek