New Orleans for First-Time Visitors

New Orleans fascinates most first-time visitors. The food, architecture and the general laid-back lifestyle sufficiently captivate millions of tourists each year. There is, however, a lot to consider before aimlessly wandering the Big Easy.

New Orleans, Louisiana (NOLA) is one of the truly great cities in the United States. There are few places elsewhere in America with such deep cultural roots that are still visible on street level.

First-time visitors to New Orleans have a few sites that are must-sees, but there are other popular spots that can be missed. As a native Louisianian, I have been fortunate to visit New Orleans more times than I can count. Even after moving away from Louisiana, I continue to visit New Orleans a few times a year, and anytime I’m asked about what to do in the city, my advice looks something like this:

New Orleans French Quarter

A trip to New Orleans is not complete without visiting the French Quarter. The French Quarter is the oldest and most popular area for tourists visiting NOLA, and many of the city’s top attractions are in the Quarter. 

Jackson Square is the de facto center of the French Quarter. With the park in the center, Saint Louis Cathedral dominates the scene. The sidewalks are filled with artists selling their works, while street performers and musicians line the square. Crowds of tourists are mesmerized by the vibrant scene that is Jackson Square. 

On one corner of Jackson Square is Cafe du Monde, the world famous beignet shop. Beignets (pronounced “ben-yay”) are little more than pieces of fried dough doused in powdered sugar, but these sweet treats are exceptional. And I’m always an advocate of trying amorphous blobs of fried dough anywhere in the world. 

While other shops in the area make beignets, Cafe du Monde is famous for a reason. The line at Cafe du Monde is typically long throughout the day, so arrive early and prepare to wait. Beignets are traditionally eaten with a New Orleans-style cafe au lait, a deliciously-sweet coffee with milk.

For first-time visitors to New Orleans, regaling on Bourbon Street is perhaps the most alluring – and most infamous – thing to do in NOLA. While Bourbon Street literally reeks of debauchery and vulgarity, there is no denying the intrigue on this strip of limitless party.

The scenes on Bourbon Street are entertaining and tempting, and there are too many bars from which to choose. Fortunately, a few standouts are worth a stop for first-time visitors to New Orleans.

If you really want to look like a tourist, buy a hand grenade. No, it’s not a deadly weapon – it’s a cocktail in a neon green, grenade-shaped container. It may not be explosive, but NOLA hand grenades are very strong. This novelty concoction is too expensive, though. 

On the corner of Bourbon Street and St. Philip Street, Lafitte’s Blacksmith Shop is a New Orleans landmark. The building dates back hundreds of years with ties to the famous pirate, Jean Lafitte. As a bar, Lafitte’s doesn’t look like much. In fact, from the outside, it appears as if the walls will crumble at any moment. Not to worry, though, Lafitte’s isn’t going anywhere. The solid stone building has survived centuries of use, dozens of hurricanes and countless inebriated revelers. 

It’s true that Lafitte’s is a popular tourist attraction, but locals also regularly frequent the old bar. When at Lafitte’s, order a “purple drank”. That’s all you need to say. It’s slushy, sweet and purple. The purple drank is deceptively strong, so exercise caution when debating a second adult slushy.

The French Quarter is more than Mardi Gras revelry. The area is home to important historical sites, local legends and more, but there’s no denying that partying is a big part of life in the French Quarter of New Orleans. Okay, it’s part of life in all of New Orleans.

Despite being a popular area with tourists, perhaps too popular at times, local residents still venture to the Quarter for fun. While it may not be the most local setting in the city, New Orleanians still find time to let loose in the French Quarter. Not only do they always take the opportunity to join a party, they are the party.

The French Market is a major tourist attraction in New Orleans. It may have been a local, historic market in the past, but today this long, covered area is a giant tourist trap. Tourists are drawn to the market because it’s a “top thing to do” in New Orleans. 

The truth is, however, the French Market is a great place to go if you want random tourist crap, souvenirs and horrifyingly overpriced goods. I am not a fan. 

Frenchman Street

Frenchman Street is where touristy French Quarter New Orleans meets local and weird. The heart of Frenchman street is between Washington Square and Esplanade Avenue. These few blocks are a strange enclave of eccentric New Orleans. 

From the eyes of most first-time visitors to New Orleans, Frenchman appears to be another corner of the French Quarter. In reality, Frenchman Street is technically not in the Quarter, and, despite being a few blocks from the tourist madness of NOLA, it is missed by most tourists. 

There are several good places to go on Frenchman Street. One of my favorite things to do in New Orleans is to sit on the balcony of the Frenchman Street Dat Dog. The hot dogs are awesome, with several uniquely Louisiana options – alligator, boudin, duck sausage – and the beer selection is good. It’s a great spot to people watch and start an afternoon of NOLA fun. 

Frenchman Street is also a good place to go for live music in divey bars. There are few bar-hopping areas of New Orleans that offer the lively, local and weird experiences found from a night on Frenchman Street. Mardi Gras on Frenchman brings out the weirdest of New Orleans eccentrics and is truly a sight to behold. 

National World War II Museum

According to their website, and to the surprise of many, the top tourist attraction in New Orleans is the National World War II Museum. The museum originally opened as the D-Day Museum. The museum’s location in New Orleans traces back to the Higgins Boat, an integral part of the D-Day invasion of Normandy, which was built in the city.

The National World War II Museum is more than an attraction for history nerds. The exhibits are filled with artifacts, memorabilia, incredible stories and first-hand accounts from the Second World War. The museum even has airplanes hanging from the ceiling. 

Since I first visited the museum nearly 20 years ago (in 2000, shortly after opening as the National D-Day Museum), there have been enormous expansions. Each time I return, there are new exhibits. The most recent expansion is the Freedom Pavilion and Boeing Center, which houses an impressive display of World War II planes.

The National World War II Museum is on the list for many first-time visitors to New Orleans. With nearly 1,000,000 visitors annually, the museum stays busy. Purchase tickets before visiting or arrive early. Otherwise, prepare to wait in a long line. Tickets are $28.50 for basic entrance that covers enough to occupy several hours. Discounts are available for seniors, veterans, etc., and a second-day pass is only $7. 

Tipitina’s

New Orleans is one of the greatest cities in the world for live music. The city is most commonly associated with jazz, but the musical reach goes far beyond Louis Armstrong and his contemporaries. The Big Easy has a unique history, diverse culture and talented local population which results in a unique music scene like nowhere else in the world.

Tipitina’s is one of New Orleans’ iconic music venues. It may not be the most historic or elegant venue, but a show at Tipitina’s is part of the true New Orleans experience. Tipitina’s hosts several events each week. Much of the lineup consists of local musicians, with more famous acts also in the mix. A show at Tipitina’s is sure to be the highlight of the trip for a first-time New Orleans visitor.

I check Tipitina’s schedule before every visit to New Orleans. Tipitina’s hosts shows from a variety of musical genres, and none disappoint. The small, less-than-shiny venue is one of my favorite places in New Orleans.

Transportation in New Orleans

First-time visitors to New Orleans will find transportation to be fairly simple. Downtown (also referred to as the CBD), the French Quarter and Uptown are very walkable areas. Bicycle is a great way to get around. There are plenty of scenic side streets to take, and, best of all, the flat terrain makes for easy cycling. Uber/Lyft is an easy option when it gets too hot.

*Note: Pedestrians and cyclists should exercise caution in New Orleans. Drivers may not always have the right of way, but they take it.

You cannot visit New Orleans without riding the streetcar. It’s not a trolley, a tram or a train – locals are quick to point out – it’s a streetcar. New Orleans streetcars are as much tourist attractions as methods of transportation. The streetcars date back over 100 years and are absolutely a fun way to see the city. Visitors can also easily get across town, cheaply too. A one-way ticket costs $1.25, and a day pass is $3. Passes for multiple days can be found online.

Getting to and from Louis Armstrong New Orleans International Airport is a pain for most visitors. The airport is in the suburb of Kenner, and buses to the city center typically take more than an hour. Airport Express bus 202 takes passengers to Downtown NOLA. Taxis are faster and more comfortable but much more expensive.

St. Charles Avenue

St. Charles Avenue is one of New Orleans’ most famous streets. The street is lined with massive oak trees and beautiful, historic mansions that have inspired artists, writers and musicians.

The best way to see St. Charles Avenue is via streetcar. The St. Charles Line is the oldest operational streetcar line in New Orleans. The line runs from downtown to uptown, completely across the crescent of the Crescent City.

Walking is always a great way to explore, that is, if the weather in New Orleans cooperates. To enjoy the views of St. Charles Avenue, take the streetcar from downtown heading uptown. Hop off somewhere before reaching Audubon Park – I like to get off around Sixth or Eighth Street – and enjoy a walk through the area before hopping on to continue uptown.

Magazine Street

After enjoying the sights of St. Charles Avenue, head a few blocks south to Magazine Street. Magazine Street is one of the nicer areas of the city, but maintains the charm that first-time visitors love about New Orleans.

To be blunt, Magazine Street is upscale and trendy. In this instance, trendy isn’t necessarily a bad thing. There are too many cool bars and good restaurants to worry about that. Additionally, Magazine Street is a popular area with locals and tourists, offering the best of New Orleans vibes without the French Quarter crowds.

For travelers looking for local, boutique shopping, Magazine is the place. The reason I like Magazine Street is because it has the perfect blend of scenic streets, local bars and good eats. And there are plenty of options to eat and drink that won’t break the bank. Since I’m not much of a shopper, I can eat some great food, walk it off for a little while, then cap off my afternoon at any number of bars.

Lafayette Cemetery

New Orleans cemeteries are a unique sight for many first-time visitors. The brilliant idea (strongly sarcastic) of building a city in a drained swamp essentially means that underground burial is not an option. The result is massive cemeteries filled with elaborate crypts. This is a common sight in much of South Louisiana.

There are a few notable NOLA cemeteries, but my favorite – not to sound too morbid by having a preferential site to wander through tombs – is Lafayette Cemetery. It is popular with tourists, and crowds visit each day. There are “free” tours offered by local guides who lead tourists through the small cemetery. If you’re interested in local legends and history, join in one of the tours. Don’t forget to tip your guide! 

The beautiful surrounding neighborhood is the appealing nature of Lafayette Cemetery. And if touring a pretty graveyard awakens the appetite – and if you’re dressed appropriately with money to spend – Commander’s Palace is directly across the street. Commander’s Palace is the quintessential New Orleans fine dining experience. While I am sometimes critical of the rather changeless nature of the menu, there is no denying that a meal at Commander’s Palace will be an unforgettable one.

New Orleans Parks

There comes a time when every tourist or bacchanalian needs to slow down and recuperate. New Orleans has several parks for first-time visitors to escape the madness of the city and take a break.

City Park is a huge green space in Mid City. It is great for patrons of Jazz Fest in need of space and quiet. City Park is also home to the New Orleans Museum of Art.

Audubon Park is a very nice park in Uptown New Orleans. It has a golf course, trails for strolling (or sweating) and, most notably, the Audubon Zoo.

My favorite green space in New Orleans is the Fly. Located right behind Audubon Park, on the banks of the Mississippi River, first-time visitors to New Orleans can get a real local experience at the Fly. 

On a nice (read: not oppressively hot) day, hundreds of locals are out at the Fly soaking up the sun, tossing Frisbees, drinking and watching the sunset.  Don’t be alarmed to see people grilling or even unloading kegs and beer pong tables from pickup trucks. After all, local or tourist, the top thing to do in New Orleans is to “celebrate” the day.

Food in New Orleans

New Orleans is one of the world’s great food cities. Even many of the overpriced, toned-down tourist haunts have decent fare. The famous favorites are well known, and there is too much great food to worry about missing out – just accept the fact that you cannot eat everything, so try your best and enjoy the meal.

The following are some of my favorite places to eat in New Orleans:

• Beignets – Cafe du Monde (French Quarter)
• Classic Old NOLA Diner – Camellia Grill (Carollton, near Audubon Park)
• Po-Boys – Mahony’s (Magazine Street)
• Cajun/Local Meats – Cochon Butcher (CBD/Warehouse District)
• New American – Coquette
• New Orleans French – Patois (Uptown)
• Cheesy – St. James Cheese Company (Uptown/CBD)
• Fun twist on nostalgic foods – Turkey and the Wolf
• Pizza – Pizza Domenica (Magazine Street), See my review of Pizza Domenica
• Hot Dogs – Dat Dog (three locations)
• BBQ – Blue Oak (Mid City)
• Rum House – (Magazine Street, a NOLA twist on tacos)
• Other – Pythian Market (CBD, indoor food court with several really good options)

Drinking in New Orleans

Drinking is the most common tourist thing to do in NOLA, and most first-time visitors to New Orleans expect to do some imbibing. New Orleans is more than a place to quaff as much as possible. The Big Easy has quality concoctions, too, and is the birthplace of the Sazerac, the hurricane and, a personal favorite, the Vieux Carré. There are cool, fun bars all across New Orleans, so don’t be afraid to pick at random. The following are tips and some of my favorite places to indulge in New Orleans:

New Orleans bartenders make fantastic drinks, often with heavy pours. Tourists in New Orleans should be careful. Drinks may not always taste as strong as they are.

Daiquiris in NOLA are not cocktails, nor are they dainty drinks. In New Orleans, daiquiris are typically frozen, large and strong. It’s the perfect drink for wandering on a hot day, because, ya know, you can legally drink (almost) anywhere in New Orleans.

Craft beer is still young in New Orleans. There are some good brews and new additions arrive each year, but the Big Easy is not a beer-centric destination.

• Courtyard Brewing (Warehouse/Lower Garden District)
• Lafitte’s (French Quarter)
• Parasol’s (Irish Channel, the epitome of dive bar)
• Avenue Pub (St. Charles/Lower Garden District)
• New Orleans Original Daiquiris (several locations)
• Superior Grill (St. Charles, Shreveport staple with powerful margaritas)
• Pat O’Brien’s (French Quarter, busy but fun)
• The Rusty Nail (Warehouse District)

Mistakes to Avoid

Choose restaurants carefully when eating in the French Quarter. Many of the restaurants are geared toward tourists, and first-time visitors to New Orleans fall victim daily to the scheme. Prices are seriously inflated, and the famous New Orleans flavors are often toned down for tourists. 

Consider this: Crawfish etouffee is not an expensive dish. Gumbo should not cost much more than $10 for a bowl. If a plate of boudin balls or alligator is more than $10-12, it’s too much. There are great restaurants Downtown and in the French Quarter, but the most visible places are often devoid of locals. The great thing about New Orleans cuisine is the quality found in various types of food. Whether the food is local, Cajun, soul food or a NOLA rendition on something else, it’s going to be good.

 

Don’t try to explore New Orleans during Mardi Gras. Many local businesses close to allow employees to join the party. The increase in tourists in the city makes it a tough time to explore. Go to Mardi Gras to enjoy Mardi Gras.

Don’t be an idiot. People travel to New Orleans for fun, but many people take it too far. Laws are lax regarding a lot of things, but don’t push it. New Orleans Police deal with a lot, and they won’t hesitate to toss an unruly drunkard in the paddy wagon.

Statistically, New Orleans is a very dangerous city with alarmingly high rates of crime. Most crime is confined to sketchy neighborhoods, but the rest of the city isn’t immune. Use caution when wandering, especially at night.

When to Go

New Orleans is hot, really hot, especially in the Summer months. Everywhere has air conditioning, but first-time visitors to New Orleans who are not used to intense heat and humidity should drink plenty of (non-alcoholic) fluids.

Summer is fun in New Orleans, that is, if you don’t mind constantly being sweaty. Otherwise, Spring and Fall are spectacularly mild. Winter is pleasant and occasionally cool. It rains in New Orleans throughout the year, so pack a rain jacket. Snowfall is very rare, and everything will shut down with the slightest dusting.

Mardi Gras is loads of fun, but is a difficult time for tourists not looking to partake in the city-wide celebrations. Hotel bookings are at a maximum, and prices in the city are absurd. Also, many local restaurants close shop in this time, limiting one of the best reasons to visit the city.

New Orleans buzzes during Jazz Fest (April/May). The already-musical city is flooded with musicians, and live shows are at a peak at this time. Jazz Fest is a fantastic festival and a great time to visit NOLA.

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Anytime is a great time to be in New Orleans. During large festivals and events, navigating the city can be tricky, but cities like New Orleans are in short supply. 

First-time visitors to New Orleans will experience a unique place with beautiful architecture, a unique culture and some of the best food in the world. The local, laid back lifestyle is contagious and leaves most tourists with a desire to return.

New Orleans is one of my favorite cities in the world. I visit a few times each year, and I find new reasons to return with each and every visit.