Marrakech is a crazy place. The Moroccan city is the landing spot for millions of foreign visitors each year. Along with the notoriety of a medina (old city) that attracts shoppers, photographers and curious travelers, Marrakech is well known for its host of scams targeting tourists.
The Marrakech snake scam is one of the most prominent scams in the city. Naive and green tourists are an easy target for locals looking to swindle absurd sums of money from intimidated foreigners. The sight of these snakes, which appear to be in a trance from the ceaseless, cliché Arab flute playing, distracts nearly every first-time visitor and paves the way for an easy scam in Marrakech.
Researching Marrakech
Prior to traveling to Morocco, I did plenty of research. My curiosity and uncertainty actually led to more research than I usually undertake before visiting a place for the first time. Morocco would not be my first step into an unusual or off-the-beaten path location (so I thought, regarding Morocco). After visiting places such as Myanmar and Azerbaijan, what’s the big deal about visiting a country that is far more familiar with tourism?
The results of my research into Morocco and Marrakech yielded a lot of information, especially about the seemingly endless amount of scams tourists encounter. Touts – shopkeepers, vendors and people who make tourists’ lives hell in an attempt to sell something – in Marrakech and Fez were said to be some of the worst in the world. In cities like these, it’s inevitable to run into touts looking for an easy payday.
The Marrakech snake scam is one of the scams I came across several times on various travel blogs and travel resources. I was aware of the scam. Between the relentless touts and street scammers, I knew what to expect. When I came across the scamming “snake charmers” in Marrakech, I would be prepared. So I thought…
The Marrakech Snake Scam – It Got Me
To avoid the chaos of Jemaa el Fna (the main square in the Marrakech medina), I was sitting at one of the many rooftop restaurants that overlooks the madness. These rooftops are a great way to take a breath and watch the madness unfold below.
As I was sitting up there on one occasion, I noticed a tourist below slyly sneak a picture or two of the snakes and their captors without being noticed. From what I could tell, she had a good spot to quickly get a photo without being seen.
I wanted to capture a picture of these snakes myself. Momentarily forgetting that I am a very large, conspicuous individual, I thought, “If she can get away with it, I can surely sneak a quick picture, too.”
Wrong.
After making my way down to ground level, I was casually walking by and pretended to be taking pictures of the square. As I snapped a couple photos of the square, then a crappy photo of the Marrakech snake scammers some 30-or-40-feet away, I immediately heard yelling that was obviously directed at me. Then, it happened.
Before I could even recognize the source of the yells, I was surrounded by several Moroccan men who chastised me for taking a picture of the snakes. I (think I) made an attempt to say that I wasn’t taking a picture of their snakes, but it made no difference. I was quickly, somewhat forcefully, ushered over to the snakes.
The next thing I know, some guy has my phone and I’m squatting down next to a bunch of snakes. Better yet, there’s a snake draped around my neck and in my hand. It happened so fast.
I don’t like snakes. I’ve had a few too many surprise encounters with these evil serpents in the wild to possess any desire to have one draped around my neck. I don’t care if it’s venomous or a “good snake”, the best snake is one at a distance.
Partially confused and wholly overwhelmed, I snap back to reality. I tell this guy to get the damn snake off of me. I then manage to snatch my phone back. All I want at this point is to get the hell away from what I know is coming next – I’m about to have to pay.
I try to walk away, but I am quickly surrounded by half a dozen Moroccan men grabbing me and telling me – correction, they’re yelling at me – I have to pay. At this point, I accept that I will likely have to pay to get out of this situation.
“You have to pay. You owe this man,” I hear repeatedly.
“For what? Come on, I didn’t ask for those pictures,” I stumble and plea in my feeble attempt to remain firm. “No way!”
“400 dirhams,” one man responds.
I refuse, flat out. 400 dirhams is about $40 USD, and I’m not about to let this Marrakech snake scam get the best of me – well, it already has, but I won’t let it get worse!
The snakes (that is, these men) continue to demand that I give them 400 dirhams. At the end of the day, it’s not much money, though it is a lot of money in Morocco and more than my budget for the whole day. I didn’t want any part in this whole charade to begin with, so I maintain my refusal to pay. I know I’m screwed, but I am growing frustrated and not going to get fleeced in the process.
Their yelling and my refusals to pay goes back and forth for a few minutes. And I’m still surrounded, repeatedly shaking their grasping hands off of my arms.
After a few minutes, the men drop the price to 200 dirhams. At this point, I know I can’t pay them this much. I visited the ATM just an hour or so prior to this debacle, and I had 3000 dirhams (about $300 USD) in my fanny pack. If I pull out any money just to escape, they will see the wad of cash and either snatch it or demand more money.
I reach in my pocket and pull out some coins. 14 dirhams, less than $2. I say this is all I have. The men are irate. Although I can’t understand Arabic, I know they weren’t wishing peace upon me.
A minute later, I reach into another pocket and pull out a couple of euros. They are still not pleased and demand I pay more. The only option is to maintain that I have no more cash on me.
After several minutes of repeating “No, this is all I have” – minutes that felt like a lifetime – the men snatch the euros and 14 dirhams from my hands and shove me away, again leaving me with more parting words that certainly weren’t peace-wishing.
As I’m walking away, my heart rate finally begins to slow down. I’m looking around and see that hardly anyone seems to notice (or care) that the Marrakech snake scam has claimed another tourist. As I make a beeline back to my hostel, I laugh and then grow angry at myself. How could I have been so stupid?
At the same time, I felt victorious for staying strong and refusing to pay any more than the few bucks in my pockets. It just happened so fast.
Lessons are Learned (Again)
Travel is like many things in life. The moment you think you are experienced and seasoned, the world puts you back in your place. The Marrakech snake scam reminded me, an already-cautious traveler, that I need to be careful and stick to what I know.
I had just been to an ATM and was flush with cash. Luckily, I had it all in my fanny pack, tightly clasped around my waist and mostly concealed by my shirt. I should have immediately returned to the hostel and stowed away most of the cash. I was also reminded of the value of wearing secure, pickpocket-proof travel clothing, like SCOTTeVEST products. There’s no need to make it easy for thieves.
I did ample research before reaching Morocco. I knew about the snake scam and other traps in Marrakech, yet I still fell victim to the scheme. My story is not unique for those visiting the city, and I am lucky that it wasn’t a more expensive mistake.
Most of all, I was reminded to follow my instinct. In a place like Marrakech, you cannot trust anyone, especially in the medina. I hate to say that – it’s sad for the decent people there – but tourists are scammed, robbed and cheated every day in this city. After talking to other backpackers in the ensuing weeks, I heard other horror stories from Marrakech. Backpackers told me about how they were scammed, assaulted (more on that coming soon) and constantly harassed. I heard from two females who said they were the recipients of horribly inappropriate and lewd comments from local men.
Most of the good things I read about Marrakech were accurate. Unfortunately, most of the bad things I read were also proven true. Lessons were learned. As soon as I heard the yelling, I should have walked away. It happened incredibly fast, but the initial mistake was thinking I could get away with taking a picture that I knew I shouldn’t take.
When you go to Marrakech – personally, I’m in no rush to return – ignore anyone and everyone yelling at you. I can guarantee you, with near 100% certainty, they are not trying to help. Don’t be afraid to just walk away. Follow your instinct and listen to the research. Don’t try to take pictures of animals or people. Always carry a few coins in your pocket, just in case. And don’t fall for the Marrakech snake scam.
Trouble for Marrakech
Don’t expect the police or anyone to help you in a sticky situation in Marrakech. While I was mid-shakedown, there were police, at most, a couple hundred feet away. While myself and other tourists are constantly harassed and exploited, the police are only there to make sure nothing serious happens.
The complacency and acceptance for petty crime to persist in Marrakech is a problem. This city is heavily dependent on tourism, yet they do very little to protect tourists. I cannot recall another place in the world where I have seen so many tourists clinging so tightly to their belongings.
As stories like this Marrakech snake scam and other, often worse tales reach more ears, the economy in the city will feel the impact. When that happens, I can only imagine that the environment will be more intense for tourists who continue to visit.
Marrakech is kind of a cool city. The medina is crazy, and you definitely have to watch your pockets and bags. The rest of the city, though, is completely different. It’s not very picturesque, but it’s fairly calm.
The Marrakech snake scam is a thing. They got me. Rather, I let myself get got. Luckily, I escaped with little more than damaged pride. For better or worse, lessons were learned.
At least I got some cool pics out of it.
For more on visiting Morocco’s popular tourist city, check out the Hangry Backpacker’s Guide to Marrakech.
More on Morocco Coming Soon:
- Scams in Marrakech
- Essaouira Travel Guide
- Chefchaouen Travel Guide
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honestly if you are going to try to sneak a picture you kind of have to be prepared to pay. You rolled the dice and got busted.
Fair enough, and that’s why I admit exactly that in this piece. It remains a valuable lesson for myself and others. Sometimes we’re not as sneaky as we think we are, and you have to watch your back because there just might be someone watching you. Of course, taking a picture in a public square (where thousands of people are taking pictures) should never warrant harassment and intimidation like this in the first place…
I’ve just been to the the main market square in marakesh…
I had a photo with the cobras with a small one around my neck….You set the price !
I paid only 20 Dirhams
If you’re going to go for it, that’s definitely the way to do it! I was totally caught off guard, though. Mistakes are part of travel. That’s how we learn, and sometimes we get a good story out of it haha
Money/harassment aside, the snake/monkey/camel/horse abuse is much worse. Tourists should avoid these cruel people at all costs, their animals are abused for our entertainment, and don’t get me started on the poor, starving and dehydrated donkeys being beaten by a stick to walk faster, pulling heavy carts behind them. I love Marrakech and felt the locals to be mostly kind and genuine, I will return, but I’ll never engage in any of these activities for my pleasure.
There are certainly better, more enjoyable things to do in Marrakech!
It’s like these people forget they only have a living because of tourists but then when we get there, they are like let’s take the absolute mick out of these people so they may never return again. Fools!
I tend to agree. Taking advantage of tourists and being overly aggressive is a great way to deter a return visit from people, and those who have bad experiences are going to share that with others. This only leads to more people not visiting. Eventually, tourists and their money will choose somewhere else. Not great business practice, that’s for sure.