Mandalay is a place known by name to many people. From the famous Rudyard Kipling poem and the Vegas resort named for it, Mandalay is somehow a familiar word in western culture. What most people do not know is that Mandalay is a real city in Myanmar.
Mandalay is the main city of Upper Burma, the north central region of Myanmar. The city of more than a million people has a long history of Burmese culture and influence, and plenty of that remains for travelers.
As Myanmar is finally becoming more democratic, travel to the country is increasing. Along with Yangon and Bagan, Mandalay is emerging as one of the highlights of travel in Myanmar. However, the travel industry in Myanmar is still in its infancy. The following is a guide for visiting Mandalay, including popular sights and where to eat:
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Mandalay Archaeological Zone
First things first. There are a lot of sites that attract tourists in Mandalay. Officially, many of these charge for admission.
The Mandalay Archaeological Zone refers to designated sites in Mandalay that require a ticket for visiting. The ticket gives you access to several of these, including Mandalay Palace, Kuthodaw Pagoda and Shwenandaw Monastery.
The Mandalay Archaeological Zone ticket costs 10,000 Myanmar kyats (MMK), approximately $6.50 USD. Officials rarely check tickets, but don’t try to get around the rules. Getting caught without a ticket may cost considerably more – it is Myanmar, after all. I suggest visiting the Palace first and buying your ticket there. Foreigners must present a passport when purchasing the ticket.
Mandalay Palace
Mandalay Palace is the historical center of the city and former home of the last kings of Myanmar. The enormous palace grounds form a perfect square with a moat that wraps all around.
The palace consists of dozens of wooden buildings and examples of Burmese architecture. There is limited information available, but tourists are free to wander the palace grounds as they please.
Mandalay Palace has an interesting history from the last two centuries. After the British seized control of Burma, the Kings of Myanmar were removed and Mandalay Palace became a citadel for the British military. The current palace is largely a modern replica, with most of the original structures destroyed during Japanese occupation in the Second World War. Despite not being original, the palace is an important cultural center in Myanmar and worth checking out.
Although in the city center, the complex is too large to walk to for most travelers. Each side of the complex is one mile long, which is longer in the heat of Southeast Asia. The only entrance is on the east side. When visiting, don’t wander too far. Aside from Mandalay Palace, the rest of the area is currently in use as military barracks and offices. In other words, it is very off-limits to foreigners.
Temples of Mandalay, Myanmar
The temples of Mandalay are the main draw for many visitors to North Myanmar. There are several temples of great historical and cultural significance, and many of these are must-sees for any trip to Mandalay.
Check out this post on the temples of Mandalay for a more detailed analysis. Here’s a quick breakdown of some of the highlights:
Sutaungpyei Temple sits atop Mandalay Hill. This temple is visible across the city and provides the perfect vantage point out over Mandalay and across the valley.
Kyauktawgyi Temple is an old temple that appears to be new. The busiest of the temples in Mandalay, Kyauktawgyi is worth a look.
Kuthodaw Pagoda is known as “The World’s Largest Book.” This intriguing collection of white stupas is a fascinating sight and increasing in international popularity due to this unusual distinciton.
Shwenandaw Monastery is a fascinating display of teakwood architecture. This is the coolest temple in Mandalay and cannot be missed.
Mandalay Hill
I say this a lot, but whenever possible, find a good view. For orientation purposes, noting curious landmarks you miss at ground level, sunsets, exercise, etc. – there are plenty of reasons to find the best view in a destination.
Mandalay Hill has the best view in this city. As mentioned above, there is a temple atop the hill that is worth checking out. And if you wish to get the view from atop, that means visiting the temple. Walking up is an option, but it is a long, steep walk. And the weather in Upper Burma is not for the faint of heart (see below). Take a taxi, instead.
Tourists are charged 1000 MMK for entrance. This view is well worth the price of admission. I advise going late in the afternoon and waiting to witness a glorious Myanmar sunset.
U Bein Bridge
U Bein Bridge has become one of the most popular tourist sites in Myanmar. On any given (dry) evening, thousands of people come out to watch the sunset from this old bridge. The scene gained notoriety in recent years from visibility on social media and in travel publications.
U Bein Bridge is the oldest teakwood bridge in the world. At nearly a mile in length, it was built in the mid-19th century. The bridge is still used by locals for crossing the lake over which it stands. The busiest time of year is late summer, when water levels are highest and more tourists come out for that iconic sunset photo.
After walking across U Bein Bridge, find a boat for the best experience. Boats can be hired anytime, but sunset is most popular. The price for a boat tour of the lake around U Bein Bridge at sunset is about 15,000 MMK, which is a great price considering the setting and popularity.
Along the western shore of U Bein Bridge, there are hundreds of makeshift shops and food stalls. Among the trinkets and weird food is a lot of jade. Myanmar, specifically the region around Mandalay, is one of the world’s largest producers of jade. In its raw form or fashioned into figurines and jewelry, jade is a great travel souvenir from Myanmar. Nearer the source, Jade is cheaper in Mandalay than Yangon. Of course, be mindful of what you buy. You have to carry it with you.
Eating in Mandalay
Food in Myanmar is good, and the same goes for Mandalay. The most important thing for travelers to note when eating in Mandalay is to avoid western food. It is overpriced and pretty terrible for the most part.
Local food in Mandalay is great. And it’s cheap! Plan to eat before/after visiting the temples, as the options near Mandalay Hill are generally limited.
Mingalabar is a popular restaurant with tourists and locals. Lunchtime is particularly busy and popular with local businessmen. The food is a great representation of Mandalay cuisine – an obvious influence of Indian and Chinese cuisines accompanying usual Southeast Asian grub.
Mingalabar is the ideal restaurant for a tourist who is a little hesitant about eating at any random streetside stall with a crowd. The restaurant is clean and accommodating to tourists, even though the menu is tricky to navigate.
Shan Ma Ma is a local restaurant that is a perfect experience of Burmese food. The open air joint is popular with locals and brave tourists. From the outside it does not look like much, and it does not look exceptionally clean, but appearances can be deceiving! The food at Shan Ma Ma is superb. The restaurant is busy enough that food is fresh, lessening any fear about food safety.
Shan Ma Ma is a perfect example of utilizing the point-and-guess method of ordering. There is no English spoken or on the menu. Fortunately for me, during my meal, a local dining next to me explained what I was eating in thick, broken English. On two separate visits to Shan Ma Ma, I did not know what I ordered. And both times the result was excellent.
For a local drinking experience, go to Rainbow. Food and drink is an open window into another culture, and this local corner bar is the quintessential Mandalay travel experience. Snacks are cheap. Beer is cheap in an already cheap country for beer. Sports are on TV, and people are just hanging out.
There are no other tourists at Rainbow, but the locals did not mind my presence. A couple of friendly locals sat with me for a beer and some language-barrier-strained conversation, all with big smiles on their faces. Other than that, the patrons’ only care is their beer.
Not far from Rainbow, along Pinya Street, there are several other bars and restaurants that are a little cleaner. Prices are slightly higher but still cheap.
There are an astounding number of restaurants in Mandalay (and most cities in Myanmar), so just pick one. The Burmese people are friendly, and the food is cheap and delicious.
Mandalay, Tourist-Free Southeast Asia
It is strange that a city like Mandalay has few tourists. However, all of Myanmar has fewer wandering tourists than other countries in Southeast Asia.
Myanmar has only been open to large numbers of tourists in the last few years. And most tourists visit Bagan and Yangon, with fewer numbers visiting Mandalay. Even fewer tourists venture to Inle Lake or Naypyidaw (the peculiar, new capital of Myanmar).
While travel to Mandalay is increasing each year, there are still few westerners wandering the streets. In a city of important history and beautiful temples, the lack of tourists is bizarre.
This is not a complaint. In fact, one of the best things about Myanmar, especially Mandalay, is the lack of tourist crowds. It is odd, though. As long as the general shift in Myanmar politics continues in the right direction, the number of tourists in Mandalay will further increase. For now, Mandalay is a great place to travel to find authenticity in Myanmar – without crowds of tourists!
Mandalay is Hot, Really Hot
Southeast Asia is hot. Myanmar is hot. Why is Mandalay any different?
Upper Burma is significantly hotter than Lower Burma. It is drier than the South, but the temperatures are considerably higher. With the sun beating down, Upper Burma gets dangerously hot.
Humidity makes heat worse. I know. I’m from Louisiana. But over several months in steamy Southeast Asia, the only place where I had to regularly seek shade to cool off was Upper Burma.
Before you go wandering around Mandalay all day in the heat, take the necessary precautions. Wear a hat. Bring water. And buy cold water as you’re wandering around. Exercise caution and find shade when necessary.
Watch Your Step!
In the city of Mandalay, overall infrastructure is decent, especially compared to rural Myanmar. However, there are some gaping holes in the sidewalks of Mandalay.
You’ll be walking down a busy street, when there is suddenly a huge hole in the sidewalk. It’s almost as if someone needed a block of concrete and decided to help themselves to a chunk of sidewalk.
Watch your step in Mandalay. Sewage flows beneath the sidewalk, and you wouldn’t want to stumble and have that filthy water pouring into an open wound. At night, bring a flashlight. Street lights are usually nonexistent. When they do work, electrical blackouts are common in Myanmar.
Transportation in Mandalay
Like most of Myanmar, public travel within Mandalay has limitations. Fortunately, much of the city is walkable. If you are able to rent a bicycle, this is great option to conveniently get around Mandalay. Otherwise, prepare for oppressive heat and enjoy the walk. (And remember to watch your step!)
If walking in the blistering heat of Southeast Asia is not your thing, you can hire a driver pretty inexpensively. For transportation from my hotel near Mandalay Palace to many sights, plus back and forth to the hospital a few times (more on that another time), I paid about 10,000 MMK per day. I typically save on transportation costs, but sometimes the situation dictates otherwise. And this is a great price for a personal driver.
After four days and lots of help, I gave my driver a 10,000 MMK tip. This is not much for tourists, but it is more for the people in Myanmar. Plus, he earned it!
Mandalay International Airport is not close to town. There is a bus that runs to the city center from the airport, but it is unreliable. A taxi for the nearly-one-hour trip should cost no more than 20,000 MMK (about $13 USD).
Transportation to and from other cities in Myanmar is not bad. There is a train station that connects travelers to Yangon and other cities. Highways from Mandalay to Yangon are decent.
If you’re going to see the ancient temples in Bagan, good luck! The trip is not that far, but it takes several hours. Travel on the rural roads of Myanmar is an adventure. More on the ancient city of Bagan and the road there coming soon!
Hotels in Mandalay
The government of Myanmar regulates the hotel industry and makes it more difficult for new hotels to open. The result is there are fewer hostels and guesthouses for travelers.
*Note: You are required to present proof of booking when going through immigration into Myanmar. All you need, in addition to your visa acceptance letter, is proof of the first booking.
In Mandalay, there are several luxury hotels, plenty of mid-range options and only a few hostels. Travel in Myanmar long enough, and eventually you will have to stay in a hotel. The downside is that hotels are more expensive than hostels in other countries in Southeast Asia. The upside is that mid-range hotels in Myanmar are cheap. And the service is great!
There are a few hostels in Mandalay and a couple of really good ones. Staying in a mid-range hotel is more expensive, but still reasonable. If you’re traveling with someone, it will most likely be cheaper to stay in a hotel and split the cost than each having to pay for a bed in a hostel dorm.
Travel in Mandalay, Myanmar
Travel in Myanmar is an exciting undertaking, and Mandalay is a great city to start. Despite a few setbacks, Myanmar is progressing in terms of freedoms and accessibility. With a new-ish airport and more international flights, Mandalay is easier to reach than ever.
Attractions in Mandalay are numerous. The city has history, beautiful temples and great food. Best of all, Mandalay is a cheap travel destination.
With few tourists traveling to Myanmar, and fewer spending time in Mandalay, it is a great choice for travelers seeking to find themselves in a unique setting without crowds of westerners.
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