Kep: Sleepy, Seaside Cambodia

Kep is a largely forgotten Cambodian town that does not receive a lot of attention. When it comes to traveling Cambodia, Kep is not a famous destination, so how do travelers end up in Kep? And what should you expect before finding yourself in this corner of Cambodia?

After a month backpacking in Vietnam, zig-zagging my way from Hanoi to Ho Chi Minh City, Cambodia was the next destination. For years, visiting the Temples of Angkor was high on my travel bucket list. But first, I had to see other parts of the country.

Looking for a place to kill a few days before heading to Phnom Penh for an airport pickup, Kep continued to come up in conversation about Cambodia.

Kep is a small village on the coast of Cambodia. It is known mostly for its crab market and as a place to escape people.

Onward, to Kep!

Travel in Cambodia is difficult. Sometimes you have to go backwards to go forward in a different direction. Recognizing the upcoming transportation frustration – and that I would be traveling to Phnom Penh a few times over the next month – and with recommendations from several other travelers, backpackers and expats to go to Kep, I relented.

Seaside Kep, Cambodia was described to me as a cool, hippie-like fishing village on the sea. The words “sleepy” and “forgotten” came up more than once. Some claims even say Kep is experiencing a “resurgence.”

With these positive endorsements, there was no further need of convincing. The decision was to spend a few days in sleepy, seaside Kep. I took a van from the post office in Phnom Penh – odd yes, but it’s a meeting point for some reason. It was a slow trip. Although only about 100 miles apart, it took over five hours. At least it was cheap (about $7 USD).

As it happens, Kep is very much fitting of the descriptions I was given. And while many travelers long for a sleepy escape, to explore the forgotten or experience the early days of resurgence, sometimes these descriptors are not the idealistic wonderland of our minds.

The Good Kep

The good parts of Kep are undeniable. The village is in the perfect location for relaxing or a mental reset. Whether it’s watching the sunset atop the sea wall, enjoying a walk around the quiet seaside town or forgetting about time in the jungle, Kep is a great place in Cambodia to slow down and disappear.

If relaxing in a hammock is your thing – near the sea or in a jungle tree – Kep has the time and place for you to chill. And it is a satisfactory break from Southeast Asia’s big cities.

The crab market is the most popular tourist draw in Kep. Fisherman and crabbers bring their catch right up to the market where prices are negotiated. For anyone in search of fresh seafood, there is no doubt that Kep is a catch.

In addition to crabs, the fresh catch includes fish, prawns, squid and more. There are several restaurants next to the crab market along the sea. The freshness is unquestionable and the smells are intoxicating. The food is pretty damn good, but the prices are not. You’re better off ordering and eating directly at the market. Just make sure to get something freshly-cooked so you don’t get sick.

When it comes to food in Cambodia, Kep is home to some of the best. The freshness is obvious and the cooks are capable. Considering tourists and the seaside location, prices are better at restaurants in town away from the crab market.

The Bad Kep

Kep is sleepy. The petrol and mechanic station on the side of the road (below) is an accurate indicator of how the village is forgotten.

Still, you’re reading that this village is so sleepy and calm that life crawls at a pleasant pace. That seems like a good thing, right? In some ways, yes, but, unfortunately, as a traveler, you will be severely limited on what you can do to fill your days in Kep.

Note: I am the kind of traveler who enjoys city chaos as much as I enjoy the silence and tranquility of being in the middle of nowhere.

For backpackers in Cambodia, Kep has severe limitations. The beach is nothing special, especially in comparison to some of Cambodia’s Utopian islands. The surrounding nature is nice, but not much different than elsewhere in Coastal Cambodia.

Kep lacks other important establishments for backpackers and independent travelers found in Cambodia. There is not much in the way of a mini-mart, which is essential for backpackers in Southeast Asia. There is also nothing close to an affordable bar. What kind of place is noted as a sleepy, seaside town and lacks an equally sleepy (and affordable) seaside bar? The bars next to the crab market (restaurants, too) are grossly overpriced, catering to the visitors in nearby resorts.

There’s no need for anything crazy, but this is a big miss in forgotten Kep. The backpacker market is much stronger and wealthier than most municipalities realize. If Kep was a little more backpacker-friendly, the positive economic impact on the town would be significant.

Travelers must turn to the town market and restaurants for their needs. Unfortunately, the town market in Kep closes in the early evening. Most restaurants are also not open late, and prices are inflated. The result is that many backpackers will spend a disproportionate amount of time at hostels and guesthouses. This is a great chance to meet travelers, but quickly becomes a more expensive stay.

The Real Kep

The real Kep is a town that is forgotten but quietly resurging. This is thanks, in large part, to the burgeoning tourist industry. There are traces of what was once an exclusive, wealthy corner of Cambodia. That is not the case today.

The shining beacon of today’s Kep are a few upscale resorts. These resorts are modern, new and a nice place to relax for comfort-minded travelers. To say these are not backpacker haunts is an understatement. Prices are simply obnoxious.

Sadly, these resorts are far away from the main village center, and, like most shiny enterprises in Cambodia, are likely owned by foreigners. Thus, the economic impact on the local area is limited.

The real Kep, Cambodia is not resurging. It is struggling. The few restaurants around have great food, but the lack of infrastructure is prohibitive. And the tendency of resort-dwellers is to not stray very far, which leaves fewer spoils for the local populace.

Overall, while forgotten Kep is a town that is lacking for backpackers, travelers with higher budgets can enjoy the “resurgence” of the area (and the food) in comfort.

Also, watch out for the monkeys (technically, they’re macaques). These vicious little bastards will turn on you in an instant.

What’s the Big Deal about Kep?

Why are travelers drawn to a place with limited everything? I have no idea.

While it is entirely possible that I missed the delight in Kep, it is hard to see how. In such a tiny place, it is fairly easy to cover a lot in a few days. Perhaps for someone specifically seeking a jungle escape, or a person looking to reset themselves and get in touch with some astrological nonsense (there really are a few of these “retreats” in Kep), this may be the place.

From an honest perspective, there is very little reason to stay in Kep for most backpackers. Perhaps in the future, when the resurgence is finally underway and Chinese businesses drive all other tourists from the rest of Cambodia, Kep will become a destination in its own right. In the meantime, a day trip from Kampot is perfectly adequate.

Kep does have potential. It is very likely that this part of Cambodia will continue to grow and, soon enough, will be host to hordes of backpackers.

In some ways, selfishly, I’ll admit, I hope this does not happen. Kep may not be a prime backpacker destination, but it is perfect the way it is right now: sleepy and forgotten.