A Guide to Laos’ Four Thousand Islands: Time to Chill

A Guide to Laos’ Four Thousand Islands: Time to Chill – Updated June 2019

Laos is a country known more for its darker days of history than as a travel destination. Landlocked in Southeast Asia, much of the nation is rugged, remote and lacking in lavish luxury. That being said, there are still plenty of reasons to visit the Lao People’s Democratic Republic.

Si Phan Don, more commonly known as Four Thousand Islands, is an archipelago in the Mekong River in Southern Laos. Most of the islands of Si Phan Don are either inaccessible or reachable only by small boat.

What to do in Four Thousand Islands, Laos

The islands of Don Det and Don Khon are the two most popular islands, but don’t let that popularity deter you. Even at the busiest of times, this place is quiet.  A sleepy, remote paradise, Four Thousand Islands feels like a romanticized scene from a 19th century tale of discovery. There are no paved roads. The WiFi is weak and TVs are scarce. Your cell phone is now a camera and it’s time to relax.

In short, there is not a lot to do in Four Thousand Islands. If you are looking for fabulous shopping or some otherworldly dining experience, this is not the place. That doesn’t mean you’ll be bored and you can still fill your days with activity. Here’s what you can do:

Naturally (pun intended), islands in the middle of a river that cuts through thousands of miles of mountainous terrain means there will be waterfalls. Perhaps the most striking Mekong River waterfalls are here in Southern Laos.

The island of Don Khon is one of the larger islands of Si Phan Don and home to a couple noteworthy waterfalls for your pleasure.

Li Phi Falls, also called Tat Somphamit Waterfalls, is the crown jewel of waterfalls in Four Thousand Islands. It is located at the western tip of Don Khon and easily accessible by bike. The ride will take you about 15 BUMPY minutes from the Don Det – Don Khon Bridge. When coming from Don Det, take a right and just keep going. You can also walk along the same “road,” but that would take 30-45 minutes.

Once you reach the park entrance at the falls, it’s about a 5 minute walk to the falls. There is a safe viewing area, but if you want a more up-close-and-personal feeling, you can hop down the rocks to the water. Be advised, there are caution signs and this is a seriously powerful piece of nature, but no one will be there to stop you.

You can get a great view from the top of the falls, then walking west along the rim of the river canyon. The sight will stop you in your tracks as you gawk at the power, force and beauty of nature on display before you. And that’s fine! Take some time and let the view sink in. There is really no rush here. Truthfully, there’s no rush in Laos at all.

Further down, you’ll see signs for swimming and a bar. Follow the signs down to a bar along with a few bungalows. The bar is overpriced, so just pack a few BeerLao to go. It’s Southeast Asia. You can drink almost anywhere. Just chill.

Continue past the bar down to a small inlet and beach on the river where you can cool off  – it’s always hot in Laos –  and get another view of the river. Before you swan dive into the easy-looking river, note this: that inviting, slow-moving river has one hell of a current hiding beneath the surface. Don’t be a dumbass.

Another must see on Don Khon is Khon Pa Soy Falls. While not as massive and majestic as its counterpart on the western side of the island, Khon Pa Soy is worth a visit in its own right. The less-than-spectacular ride out goes through the center of the island. It’s a fun and quiet ride with a different view of the island that doesn’t revolve around tourism. This doesn’t amount to much other than a few shacks and livestock, but it is another perspective nonetheless.

As you get close to the falls, you will feel as if you are on private land – that’s how you know. Keep going and you will see an area to leave your bike. Look for the chickens and goats – oh, and look for the river and the bridge, too. Don’t worry about leaving your bike. Yes, many people here are very poor. No, they won’t steal your stuff. It’s not Louisiana.

There is a cool suspension bridge that crosses a beautiful gorge with another fingerling of the Mekong carving its way below. If you don’t like the idea of a swaying bridge suspended over a swift, rocky current, you should probably walk quickly and not look down. That being said, the bridge is safe and in decent condition. For those with more adult nerves, enjoy the view.

Khon Pa Soy stands out for a few reasons. Being that it is a little tougher to access, there are few, if any, people to get in your way. Most will cross the bridge, take the path to the falls and then give up when they see that it is a little tough to get to the edge. If you’re willing, take off your shoes (or don’t – whatever, enjoy your blisters) and wade through some shallow water to rocks and make your way to the edge of the rushing river.

This far out, it is unlikely there will be other tourists. Interestingly, you can see bamboo fish traps, large baskets strategically placed in the falls to catch fish. This is one of those many sights in Laos that makes you question if it truly is the 21st century. Best of all, Khon Pa Soy falls is free. Not that anything is expensive in Laos (budget info below), but free is always a plus for backpackers.

If coming from the Don Det – Don Khon bridge, take a left and then go a couple hundred yards down the road. When you come to a road, really another path of rocks and dirt, turn right and head south. Stay on the road until you see signs directing you which way to go. The trip takes about 25 minutes on a bicycle.

Rent a bike! As mentioned above, bicycle is the easiest method of transportation in Four Thousand Islands. The roads are absolutely dreadful to say the least. Your ass may be on fire, but biking is quicker than walking and you still get some exercise. Whether you want to head up to the north end of Don Det for some drinks and different food or ride around to explore the two islands, a shock-less bicycle is your best bet.

For those who want to move, but in a more lethargic fashion, you can rent an innertube and float around a calmer area of the mighty Mekong. It’s perfectly safe (provided you’re only reasonably intoxicated).

Most of all, the main thing to do in Si Phan Don is chill. To say the pace of life is slow is an overstatement. It’s not unusual to have to awaken a shopkeeper to buy something.

Most people, locals and tourists alike, can be seen relaxing. Your time here should be spent doing the same. No matter how you slice it, it’s an exhausting, arduous journey to get here. You might as well find a good book or put your headphones on and sit back. Whether it’s in a hammock overlooking the river or chillin’ out in a cafe all day, the best way to make the most of your time in Four Thousand Islands is laid back with a BeerLao.

Why Si Phan Don?

For all the difficulty involved in simply getting to Four Thousand Islands, it begs to find the reason why you should undertake such a painstaking trip to remote Southern Laos. Truth be told, this is not a destination in itself for most travelers. The reason most people come to these islands in the Mekong River is simply because it’s here. When already in this area, however, it makes a great deal of sense.

For travelers en route to/from Cambodia, Four Thousand Islands is a natural stopping point. The area is very remote and looking at a map will only get your hopes up. The roads are as unpredictable as the bus drivers.

Since travel in this part of Southeast Asia is a tiresome challenge, take the opportunity to refuel in Si Phan Don. When you decide to leave, you’ll be glad you took a break. Whichever direction you go, there will be a long journey on a crappy road waiting for you.

Visa runs are common for long-term travelers. The visa you are granted is good for a set amount of time. For those who are spending an extended amount of time in Cambodia, that visa usually expires after 30 days. A not-so-quick trip from Phnom Penh or Siem Reap can leave you in Si Phan Don. It is a common destination for those in Cambodia making a visa run who cannot or don’t want to go to Thailand. After a few days or a week, back to Cambodia you go!

How to get to Laos’ 4000 Islands?

Getting to Four Thousand Islands is not the easiest of journeys. No matter which way you plan it, there will be a lot of uncomfortable travel involved.

That means there are no airports nearby. The closest you can get to a direct flight would be to fly into Pakse, a city a couple of hours north in Laos. However, this would require several flights and a small fortune. Not to mention, you would have to fly with Lao Airlines…

Since you are traveling overland, these are some options:

From Cambodia:

You can take a bus from Siem Reap to Nakasong (about 8-10 hours). It is pretty boring and uneventful. The bus will stop a few times and the company is very helpful with the border crossing, which is slow but easy. The cost is about $25 USD per person and should include the boat trip from Nakasong.

Try to avoid coming from Phnom Penh. It is a longer trip than from Siem Reap on an uglier road.

From Laos:

If you are coming from Vientiane, it’s a long trip. A direct bus, if available, would take about 15 hours and cost about $25 USD.

The better option when coming from Northern Laos is to break up the trip. Pakse and Savannakhet are two options to ease your travel. There is not much to do in these cities, but it would be better to arrive there at night than be stranded in Nakasong after the ferries stop for the day and no hotels are available.

After you reach Nakasong, the bus will drop you off a few hundred yards from the ferry. Head west down the main road toward the river. When you reach the boats at the river, there will be a ferry office to the right. At the office, inform them if your destination is Don Det or Don Khon – you can technically walk between the 2 islands, but it would be a very long walk with baggage.

If you already have a ticket, make sure it is filled out correctly or you will have to purchase a new ticket. Boats to Don Det/Don Khon are only a few dollars. With your verified or new ticket in hand, head down to the riverside to find the boat for you. The trip to Don Det takes about 15 minutes, then another 5-10 minutes to Don Khon.

How long should you stay?

This is an important question to answer when traveling anywhere. When you are deciding how long to spend lazing around some islands in the middle of a river in Southern Laos, you should factor in fatigue. Plan for at least 2-3 days. That is enough time to see the main things and get a general idea of what it’s like at Si Phan Don. If you feel the need for more time to rest up before the next leg of the trip, stay a little longer. At the end of the day, there is only so much to fill up the schedule here, so just take it easy. Three days is adequate, but a week or more is understandable. Some people stay a lot longer than that.

Extra Tips for Laos’ 4000 Islands

A budget for Laos is not a difficult thing to follow. Once in the country, travel and daily expenses are fairly inexpensive. However, Four Thousand Islands is slightly more expensive than other parts of the country due to the (even more) remote location.

Beers across Laos are around $1 USD. Sometimes as low as $0.50 USD or up to $2 USD, on the islands you can expect to pay about a dollar more. But it is a large, 640 mL beer. Food will cost you about $5 USD per meal, though you can always spend more or eat cheaper. Bicycles cost $1-2 USD to rent for an entire day. They are not fancy or comfortable, but it is a bargain nonetheless. Admission to the park to see Li Phi Falls is about $5 USD.

Finally, if you are staying on Don Khon, you can expect to pay about $25 USD/night for a two-person private room with air conditioning. There are cheaper options, but also a few expensive choices as well. Typically, rooms on Don Det are cheaper and there are a few dorm options to save an extra buck if you’re in need of more beer. Solo travelers can easily get by on $30 USD/day on the islands, while couples can live comfortably on $50 USD.

If there is a party, it’s on Don Det. Don Khon is a little quieter and calmer. You can still find everything you need on the larger island, but if you want to turn it up a notch or two, you’ll need to head to the village on the northeast corner of Don Det. It is about a 15 minute bike ride or a nice, long walk. However, there is no guarantee of any lively action happening at all. During the low season, the islands are exceptionally chill and laid back.

Mosquitoes! This is Laos. On top of that, this is Laos in the middle of a river. Even during the driest days of summer, expect plenty of mosquitoes. It would be best to pack plenty of mosquito spray. It is seriously overpriced on the islands, not to mention scarce. Citronella oil isn’t a bad idea either. In Laos, it’s usually hotter than the devil’s drawers in the daytime. Darkness brings relief, but consider wearing long sleeves and pants for extra protection. No one wants to come back home with malaria or Japanese encephalitis, cool story or not.

Visiting in the dry season has its advantages. As the rain lessens, river levels go down and the current churns a wee bit slower. The result is pretty water. With less runoff, the water is a pretty green and dark blue at the falls, while during the rainy season it’s not quite so instaworthy. The early dry season will be busier and accommodation prices surge, but the later dry season (February-April) will be calmer and cheaper.

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Visiting 4000 Islands, Laos

Laos’ Four Thousand Islands is not an expensive destination. It’s not the wild, out-of-control party on Phuket. It’s not the home of a historical, cultural or religious masterpiece like Angkor Wat. You come to Si Phan Don to take a load off, relax, catch up on some reading and enjoy a stunning sunset in the middle of the Mekong River. 

This is a place to get away from the crowds and the noise, a place to eat, drink too much and fall asleep in a hammock. When planning your trip through Southeast Asia, consider adding Four Thousand Islands for a look at Laos island life, and best of all, time to chill.