There I sat. In Athens. Watching the sunset atop a hill, surrounded by cool November air. To the west, the Sun was falling down to the sea. A few hundred meters behind my back was a small site of ancient ruins. Not a single other person in sight. Less than a mile beyond this was the Acropolis, in all of its photogenic glory, soaking up the last few minutes of the day’s warmth. Above and beyond, blue skies and light were coming through the clouds.
So here I am, enjoying a stunning sunset in one of the most historic cities on Earth. I couldn’t have asked for a better scene. This seems like the perfect place to take it all in, right? Can it get any better? Yes, it can. It could start by just being good. Hell, I would have settled for half-decent at this point.
This was the bright spot of my time in Athens, a beautiful moment surrounded by days of frustration. Endless encounters of rudeness, blatant insults, overpriced everything and disappointment overshadowed the good and exhausted me.
I hoped that it might change after this nice evening, but it got worse. My time here was supposed to end with a quick flight to Istanbul. Instead, the flight was suddenly canceled due to a not-so-shocking airline strike (gotta love that legendary Greek economic strategy). No refund was offered.
Having had my fill, I decided to skip out on my last few days and leave as soon as possible. The only thing standing between Turkey and me was Bulgaria. The following morning I hopped on a bus. 15 hours later, I was in freezing Plovdiv, Bulgaria. This is one of the best decisions I have ever made.
Goodbye, Athens
The bus ride from Athens to Plovdiv was long, very long. Let’s go with 15 hours, but bus rides are always longer than scheduled and this one felt like days. Even so, it was enjoyable to see the countryside. My views out of the window were cinematic, looking out to mountains through a haze of gray. With few cars in sight, and even fewer people, the valleys were occasionally occupied by goats surrounding a single square home or tiny farmhouse. It was quiet and sparse, like watching a documentary about rural Eastern Europe after the fall of the Soviet Union.
I got a chill when I stepped off the bus in Plovdiv. Literally. It was below freezing, with snowflakes carelessly meandering down to the ground. After unsuccessfully navigating the language barrier with a taxi driver, I decided on walking the two miles to the hostel. It was cold and dark, after midnight. The streets were wet, reflecting the dim, orange-yellow lights in the fog.
Lost in Bulgaria’s second largest city with a huge backpack on, I briefly worried about attracting attention. But there was not a sole around to bother. The cold, quiet, foggy setting was downright eerie. I needlessly continued to look over my shoulder and stumble every few steps on the cobblestone streets. Up to my right was a hill. I needed to get up that hill, but there seemed no path as I was bumbling around in circles. Finally, in the darkness I found a set of stairs and started on my way up.
It was even darker and quieter as I reached the old town. After a cold hour or two lost in the streets of Plovdiv, I found my hostel.
The moment I opened the heavy medieval door, my spirits were lifted. There was no one in sight, but there was a welcome sign bearing my name. After days of endless frustration and random verbal abuse, this simple gesture nearly brought tears to my eyes.
I was eventually greeted and welcomed with a complimentary beer. That night, I settled in and chanced upon meeting a fantastic group of travelers from all over the world, before passing out in what certainly has to be the most comfortable bed in Europe. Things were really looking up in Bulgaria.
Old Town Plovdiv
Over the next two days, I walked throughout Old Plovdiv on my own and wandered further out with new friends. The old town is a spectacle of architecture and wonder. It has been settled for over 5000 years and there are marks from many of its inhabitants. My hostel for the stay continues to use the original Roman foundation and walls in its structure.
The old town boasts a beautiful Roman Amphitheater which I had entirely to myself (perks of the offseason). I was able to sit and enjoy where the crowds once roared and pretend I was orating front and center. I took all the photos I would allow myself then sat for an hour trying to put it all into perspective.
The rest of Old Plovdiv features incredible architecture in various Bulgarian styles and a hill of ruins with a great view of the city. Much of the area is wonderfully preserved and host to museums, a few shops and eateries.
The Modern City
Beyond the old town, the city of Plovdiv offers a glimpse into other eras of Bulgarian history. There is the Stadium of Trimontium, a Roman stadium nearly 800 feet long and 50 feet wide. The wondrous part of this stadium is that much of it still exists below street level. There are portions you can see and tour that have been nicely excavated.
Sitting right above these marble ruins is a beautifully modern promenade. Perhaps it is my ignorance, but I never imagined seeing streets of trendy, high-end shops in the middle of Bulgaria.
At one end, there is a beautiful mosque dating back to the 15th century, showcasing the region’s history of Ottoman dominance.
The opposite end of the street leads to a square with buildings that don’t seem to fit. At first glance, they’re boring and ugly. In some sense, they are ugly when compared to the modern and ancient nearby. However, the architecture of these buildings, dating back to the communist era, is equally important. A few locals impressed upon me that, while they are a bit of an eyesore, the ugly buildings serve as important reminders of that very recent period of oppression.
The era of Soviet “influence” saw true Bulgarian culture discouraged and neglected, if not erased entirely. Despite their unsightliness, the communist architecture fits right in with the rest of Plovdiv. Plovdiv is a mix of everything. Strolling through town is like a trip back through the history of Bulgaria.
Aside from the sights, Plovdiv still has much to offer. I found the local populace to be very engaging and friendly. I was even invited to join in a chess-like game I was observing in a park. On two occasions, I was approached in pubs by locals who merely wanted to talk, perhaps to test their English, or maybe it was my overall grubby appearance that drew their attention. But I’ll stick with the language bit. Regardless, they were friendly and curious. In my short time in Bulgaria, I cannot recall a single moment of hostility or unfriendliness.
American Thanksgiving in Bulgaria
The perfect companion to friendly people is food. And Bulgarian food does not disappoint. Admittedly, I never knew exactly what I was eating, but all of it was fantastic. For many food-focused travelers, this should be an additional draw to Bulgaria. Most of the food was not only delicious, but local and incredibly cheap.
No offense to my family and friends, but I rarely suffer from homesickness when traveling. Family is great and irreplaceable, but travel – being surrounded by the wonder of the unknown – is the perfect distraction.
While I was lost in Plovdiv, everyone back home in the US was gearing up for Thanksgiving. The thought of missing out on dressing, turkey and sweet potato casserole provided the only feeling of homesickness for months.
Little did I know, Thanksgiving can take place anywhere in the world. The key components to this holiday are good food and good people. Thanksgiving in Bulgaria didn’t come with honey-baked ham or an endless bounty of pie, but it was full of delicious Bulgarian eats, great people and plenty of fun.
Perhaps it was luck, but I had four noteworthy, full-service meals over two days in Plovdiv. Multiple courses with a beer (or three) for the equivalent of $7-8 USD. That’s a Thanksgiving worth remembering! I was splurging at this point and, as always, I could have eaten cheaper or fancier at other establishments. The affordability translates elsewhere, too. I can’t speak for the shopping, but everything from transportation to accommodation to food was more than reasonable.
The Takeaway
Escaping Athens, I spent two days – 48 hours – wandering a city in Bulgaria. Prior to the debacle in Athens, I had never heard of Plovdiv, much less held any intention to visit the ancient city. I seized the opportunity, left a crappy situation in a dump of a city and lucked out.
I wound up in a beautiful, historic city filled with incredibly humble and charming people. It felt as though there were open arms at every turn. Couple this with being an affordable place and making fantastic friends at the hostel, my brief time here was worth every second, every penny. The only bad thing about Plovdiv was having to leave.
After 48 hours, I hopped on a bus for another painfully long bus ride, this time to Istanbul. Thanks to a great experience in Plovdiv, I was on the bus with a friend.
I look forward to returning to Bulgaria and further exploring the rest of this country. Next time, it will absolutely be on the itinerary.
I will go into depth about my negative experience in Athens at another time. I hope my time there was the exception and not common for others. Someday, the city may even get a second chance, but I made the right decision. I cut my losses, let spontaneity take hold and it led me to a better place. Frustration took hold for too long, if only for a day or two.
Getting past a negative experience led me to a place I always wanted to be, even if I didn’t know it.
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