Portland, Oregon is home to countless restaurants serving up a tremendous variety of ethnic foods. The excessively progressive city has become known and respected for some of these eateries, with most foodies flocking to the hottest dim sum joint or a reliably delicious noodle house. Fusion fare is especially popular, combining old, new, near and foreign. The result is good, but expensive food.
With a sizable Asian population and influence, many of these restaurants are, in fact, tremendously authentic and delicious. But away from the Asian scene and far from the super-vegan, certified-safe-space cuisine are plenty of options for filling up on something unique and delicious.
Unassuming and easily missed, on a busy corner in Southeast Portland lies one of the city’s best kept secrets. While everyone seems to be searching for the next cutting-edge hotspot of culinary exploration, Two Brothers Rakia Bar & Grill offers an authentic experience into Southeastern European cuisine. Specializing in their native Balkan fare, the family-owned and operated establishment provides grub that will leave you dreaming of cafe dining on the other side of the world.
Note** Despite my disdain for vegetarianism, Two Brothers still caters to those so dearly fond of their rabbit food, with an ample selection of meat-free choices. Judging by the rest of the food, I am certain the vegetarian fare is delicious as well.
The most popular dish in this Balkan hideout is the chevapi. And rightfully so. It is equally deserving of the attention received by chevapi found in Serbia, Croatia or Bosnia. Five (or ten) little beef sausages served with sour cream, onions, and ajvar (a sweet, red bell pepper condiment) come with the best pita bread you will ever eat.
This is no ordinary disc of lifeless pita. Most pita bread is flat, chewy and tough. None of these descriptions apply to Two Brothers’ pita. The bread is fluffy, fresh and made in-house. It is so well-received that the restaurant takes next-day orders for the bread by itself. After this piece of heaven, a desire for more is the only reasonable sentiment.
If hunger is the issue, start your meal with Serbian-style cornbread or the meza plate. The meza plate features Balkan smoked meats and sausages with some of the richest feta around. Balkan cured meats are worthy of the same praise heaped upon similar, salty Italian delicacies, so hold no hesitation in ordering a platter for the table.
The pljeskavica burger, one of Portland’s best burgers, is a Serbian-style burger made better with the house-made pita. Then there’s the goulash. Goulash, served with rice or mashed potatoes, is usually associated with Hungarian or other Central European cuisine. Two Brothers serves up a fantastic goulash, one of the best outside of Budapest. It is rich and hearty, with no shortage of meat and surely to satisfy any foodie.
Sudzuka is another sausage-based option on the Two Brothers menu. Veal and beef links are served with that delicious pita, sour cream and ajvar. At Two Brothers, this is a belly buster. The sausage and bread comes with a heap of fries and a healthy pile of greens in the Greek salad.
Pairing nicely with a taste of the Balkans is the option of enjoying wine or beer from the region as well. Wine from the Balkans is relatively unknown, overshadowed by the premiere vintners of France and Italy. Don’t let this dissuade you, as wine has been produced in this region for thousands of years – that’s a lot of time and experience to get it right.
Even in beer-loving Portland, it is not particularly easy to find lesser-distributed foreign brews. The local favorite in the Pacific Northwest is a hoppy IPA. In the home territory of the Cascade hop, it is understandable that this is the preferred choice of beer. The rarity of uncommon imports is especially the case with beers of the former Yugoslavia. However, Two Brothers has several options from Southeastern Europe, including Lasko and Karlovacko.
Karlovacko is one of the leading brands of Croatian beer, popular throughout the country and in neighboring Balkan nations. It is an unspectacular beer at first taste, but the bitter, Heineken-like profile is refreshing in the end and fitting for the food. Obscure, imported beers are a novelty in beer-loving Portland, but when you can enjoy Balkan food with a Balkan brew, the meal only gets better.
If you were in the Balkans, you would be drinking Rakia. It only makes sense that, if you are eating Balkan food, you should enjoy a shot with your meal. Try not to channel those college days. It’s not tequila, so sip and enjoy the drink. Rakia is a fruit brandy, popular across the Southeastern European area. It is similar in style to Greek Ouzo or Turkish Raki, but is really quite different. Here’s a valuable travel tip: Never tell anyone from these countries that their native drink is similar to another. If you do, make sure to add that the others are not as good.
For the common palette, ouzo and raki are too strong in flavor, a sharp licorice taste with a hell of a burn going down. Rakia, on the other hand, is strong, but finishes with light fruity notes. The traditional fruits used are grapes or plums, but there are several varieties to fit any preference. Two Brothers has several varieties, but my preference is with the traditional flavors.
Visiting Portland for food is not a terrible idea, as long as you are not in search of anything truly unique to the city. However, with a wonderfully diverse population of people from across the globe, the beauty of food in Portland is the variety and authenticity these newcomers have brought with them. The city is fortunate to play host to such wonderful cuisine from near and far, but it is important to look beyond the noodle houses and the pretentious, gluten/dairy/taste-free crap.
A few years ago, I spent a couple of weeks in the Balkans. With a good friend, a local, guiding me through Zagreb, I was offered the best advice for eating in Croatia and the neighboring countries. I quickly fell in love with the food and was perplexed as to why it was not more popular at home in the United States.
After relocating to Portland a few years ago, I specifically noted Two Brothers location as I was learning the city. The restaurant is not only an alternative choice from the usual Portland dining routine, but a personal favorite of mine. Whenever I need that unmatched deliciousness I found in Southeastern Europe, I go to Two Brothers; and I have dined here several times over the last few years.
In the front of house of the restaurant, Vlad has always been happy to explain the food and offers the best suggestions. If you’re curious or hesitant about the menu, rest assured that the staff is helpful and friendly.
Eat at Two Brothers Rakia Bar & Grill for authentic Balkan cuisine, something not common in the Portland area and, best of all, food done right. Prices are reasonable and the family that owns the restaurant runs the show from the kitchen to your table.
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