Eating in Luang Prabang

Eating in Luang Prabang is more exciting and interesting than the rest of Laos.

Luang Prabang is a touristy city. Located in mountainous northern Laos, the city attracts more visitors than any other place in Laos. The attraction is obvious, as the Town of Luang Prabang is one of the most well-preserved old towns in Southeast Asia.

Known for its French colonial architecture, historical significance as the capital of the Kingdom of Laos and large presence of Buddhist monasteries, it’s easy to understand why Luang Prabang is so popular.

The historical influences and contemporary popularity make eating in Luang Prabang a unique experience for wandering foodies. But what is that foodie scene?

Fancy Fusion

The best place to start a discussion on eating in Luang Prabang is the fusion cuisine industry.

With rising popularity of the city comes an interesting culinary scene. The French influence and international interest create a variety of food unlike any other in Laos.

Eating in Luang Prabang receives more hype than the rest of Laos. The restaurants with the highest ratings are rarely backpacker friendly. Fancy, pretty food takes precedent at a lot of these establishments. Meanwhile, the local family restaurants miss out on the tourist bucks. To make matters worse, the food at some of these fancy restaurants is just not good. But it is photogenic, and the restaurant might be run with the highest ethics in mind.

So what? Who gives a damn if your food looks good but tastes bad?

Worst of all, the notable eateries in Luang Prabang lack a certain level of authentic eating, with little on the menu that represents Laos, leaving travelers who seek authenticity hangry for more.

Why travel thousands of miles around the world to eat fancy fusion cuisine? Asian fusion cuisine is already the hot trend in the culinary world. And it is not a fair representation of Lao culture or food.

Pastries

The best French eating in Luang Prabang is, without a doubt, the pastries. Much like Vietnam, the French left their baking knowledge behind when colonialism came to an end.

It is not uncommon to see bakeries with fresh baguettes, croissants and an assortment of colorful, sweet treats. There are a few bakeries in the Town of Luang Prabang that mostly attract tourists eating pretty pastries. The prices at these bakeries are considerably higher, but the product is flawless.

There are a few bakeries away from the Town, catering predominantly to locals. While not so abundantly photogenic, the goods at these bakeries are of equal quality and considerably cheaper.

Laos has a wet, tropical climate that is perfect for growing fruits and veggies. Even if pretty pastries aren’t the most authentic part of eating in Luang Prabang, they are great! The locals have a proficient hand at baking, and the climate is perfect for fresh fruits – two things that are perfect for pastries.

The most important thing about eating in Luang Prabang – the most important thing about eating anywhere – is that the food is good. Authentic or not, pastries and coffee are becoming part of the culture, and the people of Laos are doing a damn good job.

Night Market

The epicenter of eating in Luang Prabnag. The Luang Prabang Night Market is an alleyway packed with food. In a country that lacks a certain culinary allure, the Luang Prabang Night Market may be the best stretch of eating in Southeast Asia.

The Night Market also includes several blocks of crafts and trinkets. There are plenty of good deals for everything from souvenirs to water bottle insulators. Remember to haggle!

The best part of the night market is the food. While the Night Market is undoubtedly designed for tourists, it is still an excellent opportunity for tourists to eat local. It is also a perfect place for backpackers, where eating cheap in Luang Prabang can be challenging at times.

The crowded stretch of food stalls is fun to explore. For ethically-minded travelers who wish to spend their money locally, the food is local and sold by locals. By all accounts, the Night Market appears to be a great supporter of the local economy.

Highlights of eating in the Luang Prabang Night Market are familiar eats along with local specialties. At the entrance, there are fresh-made coconut puffs. These little treats are gooey, sweet and fluffy. Eat carefully. They are hot!

A local specialty is the water buffalo jerky. The jerky is fantastic, and a small bag is inexpensive. This is the perfect snack for the next harrowing bus ride on Lao roads. Another specialty from the buffalo is sausage. A massive link costs about one dollar. The sausage has a unique taste and is an interesting local item to try.

Familiar eats on the cheap include dumplings, grilled pork belly, and various meats on a stick. Laos is hot and humid. The market in Luang Prabang is even hotter. Beerlao is the beer of choice in Laos, and finding a cold Beerlao can be a lifesaver in the sweltering Night Market.

The best advice for eating in the Luang Prabang Night Market is to go hungry. Slowly work your way through the sauna of smells, try new foods, enjoy the usual favorites and finish it off with a sweet treat. Stuff your face at a fraction of the cost in restaurants.

Pizza

I am a pizza fiend. I often joke that I need pizza at least once a week or I’ll get cranky. Discrimination is not part of my pizza frenzy, though. Naturally, I would prefer perfectly prepared, top quality pie every time, but I believe every pizza serves a purpose.

One of the great things about pizza is the lack of presumptions. Pizza is pizza. You have a pretty good idea of what you’re going to get.

Eating pizza in Luang Prabang is not on most travelers’ minds, but there are a couple of good options for travelers who need a slice of the good stuff.

La Silapa Italian & Lao Kitchen has the best pizza in Luang Prabang, and perhaps the best in Southeast Asia. The pizza here is exceptional. The Lao food is pretty good, too, but you can find it cheaper elsewhere. This place is about the pie.

La Silapa is not cheap, though. For the quality, it’s a deal comparing it to wood-fired pizza prices around the world. By Lao standards, this is an expensive meal, coming in at the equivalent of $10-20 for a pizza.

Not far from La Silapa, Jolo Restaurant has good pizza as well, with slightly lower prices.

Travelers are better off eating cheaper and local at the Luang Prabang night market than eating pizza, but all sane people crave pizza every once in a while. It’s okay to give in.

Local Soup

Of all the food in Luang Prabang – fancy fusion, dumplings, local-style grilled pork belly, pizza and even fried ice cream – the best food I ate in Luang Prabang was a bowl of soup.

The soup originates in an unmarked restaurant across Kingkitsarath Road from Phasith Guesthouse, backing up to Mount Phou Si. The establishment, barely a restaurant, is more of a house, with only one or two non-family members eating there each day. The unnamed restaurant is sandwiched between an unassuming bar and a house that appears to double as an occasional guesthouse.

The owner of Phasith Guesthouse pointed across the street to this place when I inquired about his favorite local food. The recommendation was spot on.

Sitting down and starting with a big Beerlao, we were given menus of things I had not seen before. The prices at this restaurant are less than half the price of other nearby options, and cheap choices makes easy options.

The “point and guess” method was employed this day, and the friendly family got to work. The fresh herbs and veggies required for my bowl of ecstasy were picked from the hillside garden no more than ten feet away. Everything that went into that bowl of soup was prepared fresh to order. I half expected the cook to bring a live chicken out from the back.

The dish I ordered appeared before me looking similar to pho ga, or chicken pho. There were also some curious, meaty balls in the bowl. Despite looks, the taste was far from pho. It was savory and spicy with a little sweetness in those delectable balls.

This bowl of soup represents some valuable lessons of travel: trust local advice, eat local food and don’t be afraid to try something new.

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Eating in Luang Prabang

Luang Prabang is not home to the cheapest eating in Southeast Asia. In a country whose food is overshadowed by its neighbors, it can be difficult to find something local, cheap and delicious.

Most of the restaurants in Luang Prabang that receive attention are really not worth visiting. The meal may be photogenic, and the mission statement might hit you in the feels, but the bill might make you cry. Eating abroad is meant to be an experience of learning and enjoyment.

Real local food in Luang Prabang is not served on table cloths. It is not fusion cuisine with fancy names and little flavor. The people of Laos eat food that is bursting with flavor, and so should you.

Overall, eating in Luang Prabang is a fun adventure. The variety of food in the city ranges from Western and expensive to local and cheap. Most of it, delicious.