Segovia, Spain is a small city that makes a perfect day trip for travelers in Madrid. Northwest of Spain’s capital city, Segovia has a visible history that goes back thousands of years. The city is home to striking Roman ruins, medieval castles and mouthwatering local delicacies.
Segovia is the perfect day trip from Madrid for travelers who want a little bit of everything packed into one day. Food, history, architecture, beautiful views – it’s all on display in Segovia. For the must-sees and must-eats, a day in this city should be on every Spain travel itinerary. Here’s what you need to know for the perfect day trip to Segovia:
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Highlight Attractions of Segovia
Every Segovia travel guide has a few key inclusions. The old city is extremely photogenic, and it’s a great place to wander, but the ancient aqueduct, medieval castle and grandiose cathedral are the three main highlights of this city.
There is a lot to see in Segovia for tourists making a day trip, but it is possible to cover the baes. If you have more than a day, this is a great place to linger. For a day trip, the main attractions are the obvious place to start:
Aqueduct of Segovia
The highlight of a visit to Segovia, appropriately mentioned in nearly every Segovia travel guide, is the Roman aqueduct. Directly in the center of the city, the Roman Aqueduct of Segovia is one of the most well-preserved examples of this ancient engineering feat.
The Aqueduct of Segovia is a jaw-dropping display of Roman ingenuity. Providing the ancient town with water from many miles away, much of the original structure remains intact today.
Although the Aqueduct of Segovia is smaller than the more famous Pont du Gard in France, the ancient waterway is one of the most fascinating examples of Roman construction that has weathered storms, wars and humans for nearly two thousand years.
Ancient sites like the Aqueduct of Segovia are more impressive when considering the thousands of tons of massive stones required to construct it. Looking at the enormous, water-transporting tower of stones and considering the entire process was completed entirely by human and animal power – and that it stands firm 2000 years later! – it’s an astonishing sight to say the least.
Visiting the Aqueduct of Segovia is pretty straightforward. It’s just there, in all of its Roman enormity and glory, right in the middle of Segovia. There are no entrance fees or admissions costs. On one side, there is a large, open plaza with restaurants and shops. On the other side, there is a large roundabout with a few green spaces providing alternate vantage points.
Segovia Cathedral
The Cathedral of Segovia is, from a distance, the most prominent feature of the Segovia cityscape. The large church sits atop one of the highest points in the city, rising above all other structures. The bell tower is about 300 feet high, clearly the pinnacle of the city.
In its present form, the Cathedral of Segovia dates back to the 1500s. The current structure was built to replace a previous church and convent that was destroyed in a war. The site on which the cathedral sits has been a religious one, off and on, for over a thousand years.
The late-Gothic Cathedral of Segovia is a significant draw to tourists. Religious pilgrims always find a reason to visit historic churches, but there is plenty of good reason for any tourist to visit this church.
The interior of Segovia Cathedral is beautiful, fancy and all of the things for which famous churches are, well, famous. Towering ceilings, intricate designs, massive pipe organs, pretty stained glass windows and an imposing magnitude. Segovia Cathedral has all of that.
The reason I find the Cathedral of Segovia appealing is that it’s not as busy as many other famous churches. When visiting a church, I prefer to have some semblance of being in a church. Sites like the Cathedral of Seville, for all of its glory and splendor, it doesn’t even feel like a church. The Cathedral of Seville is so crowded – all you hear is the snap of photos, and there are so many areas and items that are clearly for display only – that it is more of a museum than a church.
The Cathedral of Segovia, while still maintaining features of the all-too-common European church-museum, feels like a church. Perhaps in peak tourist season, the church becomes crowded. During my visit, it was pleasant and almost empty.
To my displeasure, entrance to the Segovia Cathedral is not free. It is cheap, though. Entrance is €3 for most visitors. Kids under 10 and adults over 65 may enter for free. The coolest part of the cathedral is the tower. A visit up the tower costs €7. If nothing else, this is worth the price. Although I grapple with the idea of paying to visit religious buildings, this small entrance fee is reasonable.
The Cathedral of Segovia is one of the big three attractions in every Segovia travel guide. As such a pretty and important structure, it’s understandable; and it’s a more pleasant church experience than other famous cathedrals.
Alcazar of Segovia
The historic Alcazar (castle) is another travel guide mainstay in Segovia. The Alcazar of Segovia is on a rocky hilltop on the edge of the old city. Geographically, the location is ideal for defensive purposes. It overlooks the city on one side and the surrounding open countryside in every other direction. Today, it makes for a picturesque castle and a great viewpoint.
The site on which the Alcazar of Segovia sits has been home to fortresses since Roman times. The Romans had defense fortifications here (still visible in the subterranean foundations of the castle), followed by the Moors and then Spaniards. The Alcazar of Segovia has been in Spanish hands for most of the last thousand years, and the current structure dates to the 12th and 13th centuries.
Visiting the Alcazar is the most popular paid attraction in Segovia. More than 500,000 tourists visit the castle each year. Admission to the entire complex, which includes the palace, museum and tower, is €8. Rates are lower, €3.50, for kids, seniors, students and disabled persons. If you only want to visit the tower, admission is €2.50.
I toured the entire complex in a little more than an hour. On a day trip to Segovia, my time was limited. Even with plenty of time, a visit shouldn’t take more than two hours. The various rooms are interesting, but it is difficult to put much of it in context without a guide (or an audio guide). The museum was entirely in Spanish, as well, which makes for a tedious tour if you don’t know the language.
The best part of the Alcazar of Segovia is the tower. The view of the old city, with the cathedral dominating all structures, is nothing short of spectacular.
Great Views in Segovia
There are a few viewpoints in Segovia that are worth taking the time to enjoy. With a picturesque, UNESCO-designated old city and plenty of key attractions, it’s important to find the good views. The terrain in and around Segovia also provides stunning views.
- Mirador de la Pradera de San Marcos (alcazar)
- Mirador del Último Pino (alcazar)
- Plaza Azoguejo (aqueduct)
- Mirador Torre de la Catedral (city, alcazar, cathedral rooftop)
- Alcazar Tower (city, cathedral, countryside)
- Mirador del Acueducto (aqueduct)
Eating in Segovia
Segovia is almost as famous for its local delicacies as it is for its historic landmarks. Seeing the aqueduct is a major reason that I was drawn to Segovia – I am fascinated by well-preserved Roman ruins – but the real reason I decided to visit Segovia is the local food.
As I’ve said many times before in posts about the food in Seville and Granada, food in Spain is excellent. And I was beyond pleasantly surprised – I was ecstatic – to find such delicious cuisine. Food in Segovia is no exception. The food is great.
Despite its modest size, Segovia is known as the best place to find a few local specialties.
Cochinillo Asado
Cochinillo asado is, by far, the most famous food to eat in Segovia. Locals love it too, but cochinillo asado is a major draw for tourists. I don’t care if it’s a touristy dish or even a trap for tourists, it’s delicious. If you only eat one thing in Segovia, this is it.
So what is it? Cochinillo asado is suckling pig, meaning a pig that is still feeding off of its mother’s milk. Yes, it’s basically a roasted baby pig.
For my more sensitive friends out there, try to focus on the “suckling” and not on the “baby” part. Or disregard what it’s called altogether, because that’s not important. To my vegan readers – do you even exist? – it might be best to walk with blinders in Segovia. In between the landmarks, there are shops with all sorts of meats and butterflied piglets in the windows. Of course, meat dangles in windows throughout Spain.
Anyway, back to the cochinillo asado. The age of the pig is not important. Okay, it is, but what is more important is how tasty these little swine are. Why is that?
Younger livestock are not as muscular as older animals. With a diet consisting of milk, the animals are fatter. This is generally the case for all mammals. Pigs are typically fat animals, so it only makes sense that the milk from a fat sow is going to make a fat little pig.
Younger livestock have more tender meat. Consider veal or lamb. They are younger and the meat is more tender and tastier than a basic cut from an older individual. Fat animals also taste better. Consider Kobe beef or jamón Ibérico. These are well-fed, pampered cows and pigs, respectively. Their meat is fatty, tender and expensive.
Cochinillo asado is the best of both worlds. This animal is young and fat. The pig is trimmed, split, dressed and marinated in wine or pork fat. It is then roasted, traditionally in a wood-fired oven.
The resulting dish is a tender pork that is so juicy it slowly melts in your mouth. The meat is protected by a layer of fat. Flavors from the fat and meat are sealed inside by the skin, which becomes a crispy snack with explosive tastes of pork, smoke, sweet and savory.
A cochinillo asado in Segovia is a victim of tourist pricing. Not that I would expect a dish like this to be cheap. It’s not exactly efficient, and the margins are surely lower than those of a pig that weighs a few hundred pounds. But a portion of cochinillo asado in Segovia does not exactly fit in many backpacker budgets. As the Hangry Backpacker, food like this is how I design my budget.
A small portion of cochinillo asado will run about €15-20 depending on the restaurant. A larger “¼ racion” that supposedly feeds 2-3 people (who aren’t very hungry, I should add) costs about €35. For the whole suckling pig, expect to pay at least €100.
Cochinillo asado is served with a chunk of simple local bread, perfect for mopping up the excess drippings, and it is usually accompanied with a pile of fries. Aside from the joy and happiness received from dining on this fat little pig, it is not a healthy undertaking. This is one of those meals about which your cardiologist doesn’t need to know.
Giant Beans
Segovia is also famous for its giant beans. These large legumes are popular around Spain, but the beans here are something special.
Judiones de la Granja is the famous bean dish found in Segovia. The beans (judiones) are exceptionally large white beans, and they are a common component of many dishes in the region. In the whole dish, judiones de la Granja are cooked and served in a stew with bits of chorizo and bacon. The stew can be thicker or soupier.
Judiones de la Granja is one of those local dishes that every restaurant (and every grandmother) prepares differently. The beans themselves are good. When soaking in the flavors from the chorizo and other ingredients (onions, olive oil, garlic, bay leaves and, traditionally, pig ears), this bean stew is phenomenal.
From a local perspective, judiones de la Granja are eaten as an appetizer or side item, typically in colder seasons. The famous local bean stew also makes an appearance as a common tapas in Segovia. Tourist restaurants may offer judiones de la Granja as a full bowl, which would definitely be satisfying, but more commonly serve the beans as part of a Segovia tourist menu.
Lechazo Asado
Historically, beyond the last century or two, lechazo asado was the most well known part of local cuisine in Segovia. Like the more contemporarily-famous suckling pig, lechazo asado is a young animal. Lechazo is lamb, though, and lechazo asado is a slow-cooked leg of lamb.
Lechazo asado is cooked in clay pots, minimizing the amount of flavor and moisture that can escape in the cooking process. The finished product is a fall-off-the-bone, tender leg of lamb. Traditionally, the dish is cooked with salt and little else. More common ingredients found in those clay pots include potatoes, garlic, olive oil, lard and various herbs.
The famous lamb of Segovia may be the best lamb you’ll ever eat. Lechazo asado lacks the fancy presentation of lamb that is common in fine dining restaurants around the world, but this simple leg of lamb is every bit as good as the chops at a five-star restaurant.
Eating Lechazo Asado in Segovia is another meal that isn’t exactly conducive to budget travel. It is a little more expensive than the cochinillo asado. A single portion will be at least €20 and a larger portion (said to serve two) will cost at least €40. The sampling menu, usually starting around €30, is the best option for a decent portion, a thorough taste of Segovia and a full belly.
Ponche Segoviano
When a city is famous for meaty, savory food, it’s only natural that it has a sweet counterpart. Segovia’s famous sweet treat is the ponche Segoviano. This pastry is a fluffy sponge cake with a custard cream and topped marzipan and powdered sugar.
Unfortunately for me, I have a tree nut allergy. With almonds being a primary ingredient of marzipan, I was unable to sample the ponche Segoviano. I could have simply avoided the marzipan, but anyone with a food allergy knows that is unwise. I prefer to save my epipen for emergencies rather than to satiate my sweet tooth.
Confitería El Alcázar is the famous shop in town for ponche Segoviano; however, from everything I’ve read, they have an awful reputation of being rude and unfriendly to tourists. Lemon and Mint is nearby, popular and said to make great ponche Segovianos.
Where to Eat in Segovia
Segovia is best-suited for most travelers as a day trip from Madrid, leaving little time to explore the many shops, cafes and restaurants. On my day-long feeding and sightseeing frenzy, I managed to stop at a few shops. I was able to find a few good spots, and I was also able to identify some touristy areas to avoid.
The most touristy section of Segovia is the plaza beneath the aqueduct. There are several restaurants here, almost all of them serving the popular dishes for which the city is famous. Per the unwritten rules of every area near every famous landmark in the world, the nearby restaurants are overpriced. And there’s always a good chance of the food not being as good.
A few personal eating recommendations in Segovia:
- Bar Restaurante El Sitio
- Meson Don Jimeno
- Restaurante California
- Limon y Menta Pasteleria
- Horno de Asar Maribel
Meson de Candido is the most popular eating option near the Aqueduct of Segovia. The location is second to none. The menu looks good, and it has everything travelers might want to try on a day trip to Segovia.
I gave in and opted to have a snack (and a brew) with a view. It didn’t matter. Even though I broke one of my cardinal rules (not eating at tourist restaurants), the restaurant had just closed. Despite my pretensions, Meson de Candido is decent by most accounts, and I can’t fault anyone for wanting to enjoy a meal with a great view.
Due to its popularity with tourists, Segovia has a lot of restaurant options near the famous landmarks and in the old city. There are scores of cool little bars and cafes further away from the tourist center, too. Good food is always easy to find in Spain.
Aside from the most glaring and obvious tourist traps, don’t worry about finding the perfect, most authentic place to eat. There’s no point in spending hours of a brief day trip to Segovia searching for an elusive, “hidden gem” restaurant. There’s too much to see (and eat) to be overly picky. If you have more time, that’s a different story. But when time does not permit, it’s more about what to eat in Segovia than where.
Transportation to Segovia from Madrid
Segovia is about 40 miles northwest of Madrid. Driving is the fastest way to reach Segovia from Madrid. The trip takes about 90 minutes via car, unless you opt for a slightly faster (approximately 15 minutes) route that includes tolls.
The easiest way to reach Segovia from Madrid is to take the train. Train journeys take 30 minutes to two hours. The length (and cost) of the trip depends whether you take the high speed AVE line or the slower regional line.
The new train station is Segovia-Guiomar. This is the station where high speed AVE trains stop en route to/from Madrid Chamartin. These trains are fast, new and comfortable; however, there is a drawback to traveling in style. The AVE trains from Madrid to Segovia are more expensive (almost double the price, usually about €13 each way), and the new station is way outside of town.
The slower train from Madrid to Segovia is the regional Renfe line. This train takes about two hours and leaves from the same station as the faster train, Madrid Chamartin. There is a change halfway through the trip, but there is no need to worry. The attendants are nice and helpful in directing tourists the right way.
While the Renfe regional line from Madrid to Segovia is a slower journey, the fare is about half the price of the high speed route. I paid €7 each way for the slow train. I had the option at Madrid Chamartin to purchase a round trip ticket for €12 but made the mistake of choosing the one-way option. Either way, the Renfe train is cheaper than the AVE line.
A direct bus from Madrid to Segovia is about the same price as the Renfe train. Tickets are about €7-8 each way. The bus takes about two hours as well, but it drops passengers off closer to the city center of Segovia.
There are plenty of travel options for a day trip from Madrid to Segovia. My recommendation is to take the Renfe regional train. The timetable allows for a full day of exploring Segovia. The price is reasonable, too. Although the bus drops passengers off closer to the main tourist attractions in Segovia, the train is more comfortable and the walk from the old station is easy and pleasant.
Extra Segovia Travel Tips
Eat with Friends
If you have the option, eat the cochinillo asado with friends. Ordering the whole pig will be more economical (depending on the size of your party), and it will be more entertaining as well.
A few of the restaurants in Segovia make a show of serving the cochinillo asado when you order the whole pig. They bring the freshly-cooked cochinillo to the table and portion it on site. Some restaurants take the show a step further and showcase the tenderness of the meat by “cutting” it with a plate.
The main reason to share the whole cochinillo is to cut down on the price. Personally, I was ready to drop a lot of cash and order the whole thing. After considering the rest of my afternoon plans wandering Segovia (and the trip back to Madrid) without a toilet nearby (better safe, right?), I decided to save the cochinillo show for another time.
Paseo del Eresma
Time permitting, the Paseo del Eresma is a quiet escape from the tourists around town. Paseo del Eresma is little more than a walking path. However, it is a walking path in historic Segovia, Spain that encircles a good chunk of the old city. In other words, the sights along the way are pretty damn good. A couple of the aforementioned viewpoints are directly on this path. It also follows along the Eresma River and a few other streams. There are benches, parks, peace and quiet.
It may be difficult to squeeze in a leisurely nature walk in a short day trip to Segovia, but it’s worth the time. The path requires climbing a couple of staircases. Otherwise, it’s an easy walk. Personally, I like walks like this that provide an alternate perspective of a destination, a break from being a tourist and a little bit of peace and quiet.
Arrive Early
There’s a lot to see, do and eat in Segovia. A few extra hours will go a long way. If possible, arrive in the morning before lunch. You can squeeze in another snack, explore more of the narrow streets of the old city and wander a little slower.
Going too fast is one of the main mistakes travelers make. Step away from the crowds and lines, and wander the enticing side streets. It’s difficult to resist the temptation to check off every landmark in a city like Segovia, but the major attractions aren’t going anywhere.
Speeding through the sights isn’t traveling. That’s looking. Arriving earlier in the day will allow a little more time to take it slow and enjoy this city. While a day trip to Segovia is the most common way to explore the city, it’s hard to see it all. Accepting that fact will ease some of your travel worries.
*One final Transportation Tip
Make sure you check the train schedule before you leave. I did a terrible job of planning ahead. After spending a day wandering around Segovia, photographing the aqueduct from every vantage point and sampling the local food, I barely made the last train back to Madrid. And I only made it after an anxious evening, frantically trying to figure out what to do.
The old station was closed with no workers present and a broken ticket machine. For nearly an hour, I thought I might have gotten myself stuck for the night. Fortunately, one last train pulled into the station. I hopped on and paid the attendant once we got going. Segovia is pretty sleepy at night, and I can assure you there isn’t much excitement after dark. Learn from my mistake and travel smarter.
Segovia City Walls
A lot of travelers on their day trip to Segovia miss out on the old city walls. The city walls of Segovia are another medieval feature of the city and, from a distance, add another layer of historic character to the scene. Most of the Segovia city walls are medieval, about 900 years old, but there are Roman remnants among the stout barriers.
Old city walls are not uncommon in Spain. As an American, it’s a cool sight to see the first time or two. After seeing old walls in seemingly every little town, the novelty wears off rather quickly. The cool part about Segovia’s city walls is that you can walk on top of them. This really helps to get an understanding of how backbreaking the construction of these thick barriers would have been.
Better than an understanding of ancient construction are the good views. That’s the real bonus of the city walls in Segovia. The walls provide great vantage points of the old city and surrounding countryside.
Segovia is one of the most interesting cities to travel in Spain. With ancient landmarks, medieval castles, grand cathedrals and an abundance of excellent food, all surrounded by a small city that embodies Spanish culture, there are few destinations so well-rounded as Segovia.
Most travelers experience Segovia as a day trip. A single day is a great way to get a taste of this city, and it will certainly be a day full of sightseeing and eating. When I next visit Segovia, I’m going to stick around a little longer. With so much to offer, this is an ideal place to wander.
That city looks beautiful! Would love to visit it the next time I am in Spain!
It’s a beautiful place, great day trip from Madrid!