Lagniappe

If you’re planning a trip to Spain, you may be wondering about the train between Madrid and Barcelona. There a multiple options to travel between the cities, and each has benefits. In a country with excellent rail connection, taking the train is an obvious consideration.

Madrid and Barcelona are the two primary cities of Spain. The former, the capital, is a huge city and has all that goes with being the governmental, financial and cultural center of a nation. The latter is laid back, sunny and a mega tourist destination.

As the two largest and most economically important cities in Spain, there are plenty of reasons for taking the trip from one to the other. Whether it’s for business, tourism or something in between, thousands of people make the trip from Madrid to Barcelona (and vice versa) each day.

The two cities are approximately 300 miles apart. Given the geographical constraints of the area between them, that trip is likely to take about 7 hours via highway.

Lucky for tourists, both cities are extremely easy to get around. Walking is practical. For longer distances, both Madrid and Barcelona have excellent public transportation systems above and below ground. So there’s no need for most visitors to worry about driving. You can get wherever you need via train, bus, metro and taxi.

Thus, the most pragmatic choice for travel between Madrid and Barcelona is the train.

That’s settled. Unfortunately, it’s never that straightforward. Each city has multiple, large train stations. There are multiple places that sell tickets. There are multiple companies operating the journey. All of these factor into when you leave, from which stations you will depart and arrive, the length of the journey and how much it will cost.

We went through all of this just to find a train ticket. Is it more complicated than necessary? Absolutely. Spain has a phenomenally well-connected rail network. You can get almost anywhere by train. But Spanish bureaucracy is infamous for a reason. Anyway, let’s break it down and hopefully simplify the process for you.

Fast Train or Slow Train?

The train from Madrid to Barcelona used to be a long, slow journey. With the demand for travel between the two cities, hundreds of flights were operated each week. The introduction of the high speed route saw scheduled flights drop substantially and the number of rail passengers traveling between Spain’s two primary cities more than double.

Today, the high speed line is operated by Renfe, Spain’s state-owned train company, Ouigo and Iryo. More than 4 million people travel on the route each year.

Both the fast and slow lines follow the same basic route (not the same tracks), so which one should you take?

The Classic, Slow Train

The old rail line, operated by Renfe, is tedious and frequently stops during its connection of the two cities. It takes over 9 hours and includes 40 stops at smaller stations. It is an excellent choice, albeit often the only choice, if you are a tourists wishing to reach one of the smaller villages between Madrid and Barcelona.

The train runs once a day in each direction, each leaving in the morning. The terminal stations of the slow train between Madrid and Barcelona are Chamartin (Madrid) and França (Barcelona).

For some travelers, the slow train has a certain appeal. I love slow travel. You can see more of the countryside; if time is on your side, I can totally understand that sentiment. Unfortunately, time was not on our side.

The reality is that tourists rarely visit these small communities. I think we’re missing out, but on we go from one metropolis to another.

The High Speed Train

We chose the high-speed train in the interest of time. With less time on this trip to Spain, it made the most sense, affording us nearly an additional day not sitting on trains.

The high speed train takes about 3 hours. It depends on the exact time you leave and number of stops. Trips one or no stops can be closer to 2½ hours, a handful of stops on another train can make the journey closer to 4 hours. Either way, it’s a significantly shorter trip than the slow train.

The primary benefit of the high speed train from Madrid to Barcelona is the departure options. Departures begin early in the morning, around 6 AM, and continue until around 9 PM. Seven days a week.

The terminal stations are Puerta de Atocha (Madrid) and Sants (Barcelona).

For most travelers, especially if you’re short on time, the high speed train is the obvious choice. It is slightly more expensive, which is discussed next; however, the added flexibility of the timetable really makes it the superior option for travelers simply trying to travel between Barcelona and Madrid.

Some people like the slower journey. I do. I like when trains pull into the little stations along the way. Trying to catch a glimpse of each town, I’m usually wishing I was getting off the train to go and explore. So, next time it is!

Costs

Finding the actual price of the high speed train between Madrid and Barcelona might be the most frustrating part of the journey. Seriously, there are so many variances that seem to affect the price. Spain is such a great place, and the Spanish rail network is excellent, but they might be even better at making things unnecessarily complicated.

Anyway, the prices of the high speed train vary. I’m sure there is some kind of formula, but it seems random.

Time of departure/arrival, day of the week, class of seats and when you purchase tickets all affect the price. Multiple companies operate trains on the line, so this is another factor that has an effect on cost.

Generally, one-way tickets can range from less than €20 to more than €100. I know, that’s not very helpful for budgeting. Unfortunately, it depends on several variables, so here are a few tips to help you find cheaper tickets (and save time doing so) for the train from Madrid to Barcelona:

• Be flexible. The more flexibility you have for your departure/arrival, the better chance you have to save some money.
• Book in advance! If you know your plans beforehand, book your ticket early. On occasion, there are cheap tickets available at the last minute. So I’m told. I’ve never had this experience. In fact I’ve paid significantly more than average.
• Scout the train websites! The operator websites aren’t great (Renfe, in particular, is extremely frustrating to use). Trainline is my go-to website for train tickets in Spain. It is easier to use and often cheaper. Not every operator sells on these sites, so you can also check the timetable on Google for comparison.

Ease and Comfort

After you have the itinerary settled and tickets purchased, the high speed train journey between Madrid and Barcelona is simple, straightforward and comfortable. As advertised, it’s fast.

We traveled on different operators each way, and I have taken other high speed trains in Spain on previous trips. My experiences on Iryo have been the best, but none of them have been uncomfortable or unpleasant. The ride is unbelievably smooth for how fast the train is moving. The seats are large and comfortable. The cars are clean.

If you are running late, most of the trains have services selling snacks. It’s slightly more expensive than you would pay in the city for the same thing, but the service is good.

My perception is that trains in Spain are also safe. Security is visibly present even if a little annoying in the moment. I’ve had my bags run through the scanner on most trips, and it does provide a sense of security.  I was shocked on a recent trip in Belgium that there was no security whatsoever to enter the train station or board the train. None at all. Anyone could have stepped on board. In our current world, seeing the train station security in Spain is comforting.

I have no real complaints about the journey, aside from wishing I knew then what I know now about train tickets in Spain. I could have saved money, but that’s part of learning how to travel smarter. And that’s on me. The trains themselves are more than adequate.

I suggest arriving at the train station an hour early. Most likely, you will fly through security and feel like you arrived too early. At times, though, lines through security can back up and cause some anxiety if you’re running late. It’s better to be early than miss your train or cause any undue stress.

How to Get to Puerta de Atocha & Sants Train Stations

Both stations at either end of the Madrid to Barcelona train line are serviced by local Metro. This is usually the easiest and fastest way to get there. You can also reach the stations via local bus systems.

Getting around Madrid is extremely easy. Public transportation is extensive and fairly cheap. The metro station at Puerta de Atocha stops directly beneath the train station.

Barcelona also has great public transit. The Sants Metro is about two blocks from the entrance to Sants train station. It’s easy to find, though. As soon as you emerge from the Metro, the train station is the large building with a big parking lot and lots of people out front. It’s obvious.

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The high speed train between Madrid and Barcelona is the best way to travel between the two cities. Spain’s excellent rail network shows off once again. The trains are clean, safe, reliable and, of course, very fast.

Hopefully this breakdown helps you navigate the trip a little easier. Let us know if you have any questions, and enjoy the ride!

Taking the night train in Egypt is an exciting undertaking for many travelers visiting the Land of Pharaohs and Pyramids. For some, the night train connecting Upper and Lower Egypt is a matter of budgetary constraints. For others, it provides a sense of adventure or simply a practical, time-saving method to reach the next site of ancient excitement.

The reality of taking Egypt’s night train is a combination of all of the above. It can certainly function as a way to save money, and it can help you to cut costs. And, based on my experience, the boredom that comes with a lengthy overnight train will include plenty of excitement, too.

Read on for the story of my experience taking the night train in Egypt, followed by all of the tips you need to have the best journey possible.

My Egyptian Night Train Experience

The majority of my experience on the night train in Egypt from Cairo to Aswan was boredom. That’s the case with most overnight trains. Comfort is usually lacking, and there obviously isn’t much scenery to enjoy when it’s dark outside.

The boredom was preceded by some fairly tense moments to start the trip, later interrupted by meals on the train, bits of rhythmically-rocking train-sleep and brief glimpses of the Nile and desert landscapes the following morning.

The start of the overnight adventure stands out the most. Excitement for the impending rail journey was accompanied with plenty of confusion and frustration.

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More night train adventures and tips!

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Getting to the Train Station

Traveling with my wife, we opted to take an Uber to Ramses Station from our hostel in Cairo. The distance was walkable, but afternoon heat plus full backpacks in Cairo made the decision easy.

Uber in Cairo is extremely cheap. The total cost for a 20-minute ride (including the maximum tip the app would allow) was about $2 USD. The app also helps navigate the language barrier. If you opt for a taxi, confirm the price (total price for all passengers) before you set off. Hailing a taxi is easy in Cairo, too. No less than 10 taxis stopped for us as we waited for our Uber.

The trip from our hostel to the train station is typically one that would take a few minutes. However, traffic in Cairo can be heavy, and this was at the tail end of rush hour. To make matters worse, our driver almost dropped us off at the wrong station. There is a bus station near the train station. With traffic, crowds and the distance, we would likely have gotten lost. Thankfully, I caught the misunderstanding and he dropped us across the road from the train station.

Once we arrived, we crossed a pedestrian bridge over the packed streets of cars, buses, vans and crowds of people. The scene below appeared chaotic, but it also gave me a rush of excitement. The hectic environment is all-consuming to the senses. Coupled with anticipation for the night train to Upper Egypt and all of the sights ahead, it gets the adrenaline pumping.

We carefully stepped down a set of crumbling stairs and turned toward Ramses Station. We went through a neglected exterior security checkpoint that appeared to have been forgotten a few years before our arrival. Finally, we could see the train station free of obstructions. Having seen photos of the stunning interior beforehand, I admit, I was pretty excited.

In “Custody” of Egyptian Police

Aside from the seemingly bored armed police, a couple of tourists posing for pictures and groups of people congregating around the entrances, there wasn’t much going on outside the station.

Eventually, we found a small office that mentioned our specific train and stepped inside to find out where to go. We were told our tickets are in order and pointed in the general direction of an entrance.

As we approached the security checkpoint to enter the station – every entrance into the station requires going through security – several police officers began shouting at us. We motioned that we were going through the security line and attempted to remove our bags to pass through the scanner. The yelling only intensified. I presented our tickets, and this did nothing to help. The shouting grew louder. The heads of bystanders were turning toward us, the cause of the disruption.

Naturally, two westerners who understand a combined total of 15 words in the Arabic language have no clue what they are saying. All I can confirm is that it was loud, did not sound friendly and was extremely intimidating.

Amidst the yelling, two of the officers (one with an AK-47 hanging over his shoulder) quickly walked up to us. They snatched my wife’s backpack and aggressively ushered us into a small room near the security checkpoint where we were directed to sit down, hand over our passports and leave our bags in the corner.

We had absolutely no idea what was happening. And I’ve seen enough episodes of Locked Up Abroad to have plenty of fear instilled in me when at the thought of being detained in a foreign country.

The room was plain. The lights were bright. Aside from housing a few chairs and a desk, the room was barren. It looked like a makeshift interrogation room. At this point, despite the encouraging words I attempted to offer to my wife, there was not a single positive thought in my mind.

We attempted to ask what was going on but were met with pointed fingers to sit down and little else. My wife and I were both sneaking pictures of the room and sending them to family. Just in case.

Resigned to detention, I sat back in frustration and managed to let my imagination get the best of me.

After a few minutes, the police officers brought another group of tourists into the room to join us. Their confusion was clearly on par with ours. If nothing else, I was comforted that we wouldn’t be alone for whatever was happening next.

For nearly an hour, the room of tourists was full of confusion. I began to worry we might miss our train. We attempted to handle language barriers to determine what was happening. No one had any reasonable clue.

Fear and confusion ceded to frustration bordering on anger until one of the other tourists pleaded his case for some food. To our surprise, the officer allowed us ten minutes to grab some snacks, but we had to leave all of our belongings in the holding room.

These few minutes were encouraging. Surely, nothing was wrong if we were allowed to leave the room unaccompanied. Once everyone was back in the room with snacks in hand, moods improved despite not knowing why we were semi-detained by police.

Some time later, an officer came into the room and told everyone to gather their belongings and follow him. As we exited the room, we bypassed the security checkpoint, scanner and all.

My frustration increased as we walked through the center of Ramses Station – it was as beautiful as the photographs, and this brief walk is all I would be able to see. Our entire group was escorted by four armed police officers – two in the front, two bringing up the rear – through the station, down a hallway, outside through a tunnel and to the train platform. People moved out of our path and stared at our helpless group the entire time we were being escorted from the holding room. Finally, we reached the train, and each guard made sure that we were safely aboard the train.

What just happened?

We went from feeling as though we were under arrest, having committed some unknown crime, to confusion to feeling, once again, like lawbreakers under armed guard being transported to who-knows-where.

But we were so wrong. The officers smiled, wished us a good trip and kindly said goodbyes.

Perhaps there was some paranoia to blame for our panic. At the end of this bizarre detention by Egyptian police, we realized they were simply doing this to keep us safe. To my knowledge, there was no imminent threat or danger. Maybe they were shielding us from scams or aggressive people within the train station. Ultimately, it seems we were valuable Western tourists, and I suppose they did not want to take any chances.

The irony is that tourists are ripped off and scammed everywhere in Egypt. If my assumption that they were shielding us from such bothers in the train station is correct, it makes no sense. Why not crackdown on the aggressive behavior at every single other tourist site in the entire country? Why here?

Before I travel anywhere, especially places with spotty history in regards to safety and security, I do A LOT of research. I spent hours trying to figure out the night train in Egypt, costs, safety and so on. I read dozens of first-hand accounts and reviews about the trip and never came across a single report mentioning anything remotely close to our experience.

Ultimately, we were fine. No harm befell my wife, myself or any of the other Western tourists in our group. I believe the police were simply following orders and looking out for our safety. That being said, the communication in this matter was absolutely nonexistent. This lack of communication was confusing, frustrating and frightening. In hindsight, it makes for an interesting story, but my biggest disappointment is not being able to explore the remarkable Ramses Station in Cairo.

All Aboard!

Now that we’ve gotten the drama out of the way, let’s get to the actual train journey. For any long voyage, boredom is not a bad thing. Uneventful transportation may not make for a good story or an especially memorable experience for most travelers, but that’s a good thing. Be it via plane, boat, bus or train, the goal is to safely travel from Point A to Point B.

Of course, the more you travel, the good stories and unforgettable experiences – these come naturally.

After the confusion at the station in Cairo, we settled in for a long night aboard the night train to Aswan. We made our way into our cabin and were soon greeted by the attendant. A few minutes later, the train departed Cairo Ramses Station. To my surprise, departure was almost exactly on time.

The train rolled into a station in Giza a short time after departing from Cairo. We stopped for a few minutes. Additional passengers piled aboard, and we were soon off again.

Some time later, perhaps an hour or so, our attendant knocked on our door and entered. We were surprised with dinner. Dinner was simple but decent, certainly better than most airline meals. I was served lamb with green peppers, rice, veggies, some kind of cake, a container of tahini and bread.

During the booking process, there was no mention of whether or not any food is included on the night train. I don’t recall food being a part of the service on similar long journeys. Even though this was a slightly more expensive journey, it’s a nice touch.

After dinner, we decided to try to get some sleep. In theory, this is totally possible. The benches in the cabin are comfortable enough and easily convert to sleeping bunks. This is certainly not luxury, but it’s nice enough to get some sleep. And the back-and-forth rocking of trains helps, too.

For my part, sleeping was a challenge. At nearly 6’4” tall (1.92m), let’s just say that the whole bench isn’t quite that long. Couple that with not feeling great after a few days of overzealous eating in Cairo, and I wasn’t feeling very well. The challenge for my wife was that the cabin grew pretty stuffy and a bit warm. She likes to sleep cold, so that was less than ideal for her. Especially in Egypt.

Over the next several hours, we spent most of the time tossing and turning in a state of semi-conscious sleep. There were a handful of stops during the night (that I recall). These lasted from less than five minutes to more than 15 minutes.

When the train rolled into Aswan, we were more than ready to disembark. While a long journey on a train is far more comfortable than a long flight, getting out for some space and fresher air is a welcome change.

For whatever reason, the train took a lot longer than advertised. From departure in Cairo to exiting the train in Aswan, the night train took about 16 hours and 45 minutes. This was 3-4 hours longer than it was supposed to take. I have no idea what delayed our arrival, and I honestly didn’t notice. Regardless, we were a bit late arriving and starting our day in Aswan.

Cleanliness & Comfort

Our cabin aboard the night train in Egypt was cleaner than one might expect. Although dated, it was very clean. All seats and most surfaces were spotless. The only dirty part was the window. Most of this was on the outside, which was a bummer as I am an avid window-seat enthusiast in any vehicle, constantly looking out, around, up or down. For the two of us in our cabin, it was spacious. Other than when I tried to sleep, I never felt cramped. You can always walk the corridors if you want to stretch legs a little more.

The bathrooms were just about what I expected and have experienced on most of my long train journeys. They start out okay at the beginning of the trip but quickly deteriorate to the usual unclean, pseudo-frightening state that is a toilet on a train.

Cabins aboard Egypt’s tourist night train are air conditioned. But they are also heated. I’m not sure why. Sure, the desert gets cool at night. But not cold. And definitely not cold aboard a giant diesel train. For whatever reason, the cabin’s heater was on overnight when it was likely in the 60s outside and 70s inside the car. The hallway was much more pleasant, and it was only warmer in the tiny cabins where the heat was running.

Other than the nighttime heat wave, the temperature in the cabins was fairly comfortable during the trip. Overall, the comfort and cleanliness was better than expected. It is important to remember that this isn’t a luxurious train journey. Keep that in mind, and you’ll have a fun experience.

Meals

As mentioned above, we were surprised that we were served dinner. We bought snacks in our break from detention at the train station in Cairo, so we weren’t hungry at any point.

To our surprise once more, we were informed breakfast was coming soon. Breakfast on Egypt’s night train was much less impressive than the previous night’s dinner.

We were each given a tray of bread. Lots of bread. Three different types, all packaged and served with jam, butter and cheese. It looked a little sad but was fine. I’m rarely one for a heavy breakfast. Usually a piece of toast is sufficient. If you’re trying to carbo-load, just hop on the night train!

End of the Line

We were happy to get off the train. Overall, the train journey itself was better than I expected. After 17 hours on a train, all I could think about was a change of clothes, a shower and walking more than a few feet at a time.

We arranged for a guide to meet us at the station in Aswan. He was annoyed the train was late but was right there waiting for us. This made it very easy, which was much appreciated after the long trip. I didn’t have to think about directions or anything. It was time to explore the sights of Aswan!

Don’t be surprised by the journey. Read on for extra tips and details to prepare for the night train in Egypt!

Tips for Taking the Night Train in Egypt

Tickets & Reservations

I had a fair amount of difficulty finding the right place to buy tickets for the night train in Egypt. Eventually, I found Watania Sleeping Trains, the official site that books and sells tickets for the journey. That site is now called Abela Trains. That link is the place to get your trip sorted.

Tickets for the night train from Cairo to Aswan cost $90 USD for foreigners. The price is pretty steep considering how inexpensive most things are in Egypt. However, that high price is specifically for non-Arab foreigners. As it states on the website, there are different rates for Egyptians (about $20 USD), Arabs and foreigners. The more expensive price does include a a larger, more comfortable space. I believe the cheaper tickets do not include a bed, which sounds less than fun for the lengthy journey.

Backpacker Friendly Transportation

In general, Egypt is a fairly cheap place to visit. Like anywhere else, you can pay as much as you want for certain luxuries, but the night train can be an effective way to save a few bucks if you want to stretch the budget.

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Travel Cheaper!

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Flights to Aswan from Cairo average around $70 USD. You will also have to sort out more expensive transportation to/from the airports and city centers.

The train includes food, which saves a small amount of money. Further, the night train is a place to sleep. In other words, that’s a night you won’t have to book a hotel.

To be fair, the savings by skipping the flight and taking the night train are minimal. But if you want to stretch your budget at every possible chance, this is a good, safe option that is still fairly comfortable. The cheapest travel option is via bus. But it doesn’t save much time compared to the train, and it’s not going to be nearly as comfortable.

The Train is NOT on Time

Delays of a few minutes here or there are typical for trips of any length. When you start getting in the range of 12+ hour journeys, delays can be more significant. When you factor in the fact that it’s a train, delays snowball. It’s not like an airplane that can make up time. Oh, and you’re in Egypt. That’s worth some added time, too.

The best bet is to simply plan and expect for this train to be at least a couple of hours late. We weren’t in a hurry, so I didn’t really mind. This is something to pay attention to if you have any tours booked or guides waiting for you.

Do Your ‘Business’ Early

If you need to spend “extra time” in the bathroom, try to do so before you board the train or as soon as possible once you step aboard. The bathroom is bare bones, as you might expect. After a few hours, the state of the bathroom is, shall we say… gross. Yeah, it’s not a place I would want to spend much time.

The toilet is “cleaned” at some point during the journey, but this is not a thorough cleaning by any stretch. With all of the bumps, jolts and rocking of the cars, people seem to miss quite a bit.

What does make it into the toilet is unleashed directly onto the tracks when you “flush.” With that in mind, should you find yourself on any train tracks in Egypt, it may be best to walk elsewhere. Anyway, the lavatories are not great. Try to handle your bathroom business before you board the train.

More Tips!

• Bring a small fan. This is a useful item for traveling to Egypt in general. I typically advocate for packing as light as possible, but a small fan pays huge dividends in Egypt. The train can be a bit stuffy, and a small fan would have been a great thing to have.
• If you are traveling solo, you can pay extra for an entire cabin if you want privacy.
• Buy train snacks before you reach the station. You will get ripped off at the kiosks outside Ramses Station in Cairo. If you don’t speak the language, there isn’t much you can do.
• Don’t forget to tip. Everyone. Tipping culture is a big thing in Egypt, especially for tourists. And cash is king. Throw an extra 10-20 Egyptian pounds to your Uber driver. For your room attendant on the train, 300-400 pounds (~$5-10 USD) is fine.
• You are allowed to consume alcohol in your cabin, but it is not sold on board the train. If you want a quick nip or nightcap, pick up some liquid refreshment in one of Cairo’s few liquor stores. Don’t forget a cup!
• Bring a portable charger. The outlets in our cabin worked, but it took nearly the entire journey to reach a full charge.
• The train does not have WiFi. If you don’t anticipate sleeping much, plan accordingly.

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Taking the night train from Cairo to Aswan is a straightforward process for a long, slow journey. For train enthusiasts, it might be more exciting. For most travelers, it’s just a reasonable way to get from one place to the next.

As with any trip, it’s best to be prepared. Use these tips so you’re prepared and know what to expect. Most of all, enjoy the ride! It’s not every day that most of us get to take a train across Egypt.

The world needs backpacking after COVID-19. The travel industry needs backpackers, and getting backpackers back on the road is vital to the recovery of the global tourist industry.

Backpackers are an overlooked segment of tourism. And stereotypical backpacker stories involving ignorance or debauchery – offending local customs, wild parties, drugs, etc – seem to be the only attention levied upon this segment of travel.

In reality, this is the great exception. An overwhelming majority of backpackers are simply budget travelers. These aren’t people traveling to satiate a need for depravity or seeking illicit fun at any turn – they’re just cheap! And though they may be stingy, backpackers are the backbone of global tourism. When tourism resumes after COVID-19, backpacking needs to be at the forefront of travel recovery.

The Importance of Backpacking

Backpacking is serious business. Quietly, the backpacking sector of the travel industry has grown to massive revenues supporting millions of jobs and families around the world. Backpacking is important to the global tourist economy and should not be left out when travel resumes on a global scale. Here’s why:

The Economics of Backpacking

Backpackers are a significantly larger part of the travel industry than one might presume. The United States alone caters to around 10 million backpackers each year. Worldwide, the number of backpacker trips taken is nearly 45 million per year, with the average amount of money spent per trip approximately $4000 USD in 2017.

These are statistics from WYSE Travel Confederation, from younger travelers who identified as backpackers. Depending on your definition of “backpacker,” those numbers (people and revenues) are likely to be significantly greater.

This means that backpackers are spending HUNDREDS OF BILLIONS of dollars globally each year. That estimation is further supported in a Forbes article from 2013.

Maybe backpackers don’t drop the same levels of cash as a family at Disney World or a couple honeymooning in paradise. And a backpacker’s budget is also typically spread out over a longer period of time than a traveler on a more traditional vacation.

But hundreds of billions of dollars is serious cash, serious economic impact. By these measures, the backpacking travel industry is greater than the GDP of most nations in the world.

Backpacking Benefits are Far-Reaching

Though backpackers may not spend as much money as other types of travelers, the economic impact of backpacking is (literally) more far-reaching than that of other travel sectors.

Let’s look at Southeast Asia, for example. It’s fairly easy to guess the destinations or general itinerary of the typical tourist in the region: Bangkok, the Thai Islands, Siem Reap (Angkor Wat), Bali, Singapore, Ho Chi Minh City – that’s fairly comprehensive, right?

These are all fascinating places to travel, but the economic impact of tourism in these countries is wildly polarizing. It’s obvious when you travel almost anywhere else in these countries. For instance, Siem Reap is full of fancy hotels, trendy shops and nicer restaurants, but a vast majority of Cambodia looks much different. With a majority of tourists in Cambodia coming to see Angkor Wat, a large chunk of the economic benefits stay in that area.

That’s only natural, and it’s perfectly reasonable. Tourists are drawn to major tourist attractions.

Backpackers, on the other hand, are likely to see more destinations in Cambodia. A traveler backpacking in Cambodia for 2-4 weeks may not spend the same amount of money as the tourist who spends a few days at a resort in Siem Reap, but who benefits?

Resort guests are less likely to support independent shops and restaurants in town, opting instead for the high-end amenities on the resort property. That resort is probably not even owned by a local Cambodian anyway. Sure, a few people gain employment, but the bulk of profits are going overseas or greasing palms.

Backpackers’ spending supports hostels, small guesthouses and local transportation companies as they travel through Cambodia. They’ll spend money eating and drinking at local bars and restaurants from Phnom Penh to Battambang to Kep and Koh Rong. Backpackers tend not to drop large sums of money, but the money they do spend supports a wider array of local people.

Cambodia is only one example. Similar cases can be made for travel throughout the world. Backpackers are some of the first tourists to “discover” a travel destination. When travel as we once knew it resumes, backpackers will be the first tourists back and spending money in the lesser-visited places of the world.

The economic impact of backpacking reaches far beyond the major tourist attractions and big cities. Backpackers visit these major tourist destinations, too, but they are also the ones more keen to visit remote destinations. They spend money in places many tourists don’t even know exist.

Unfortunately, the return of travel after COVID-19 has complicated things. The importance of backpacking is being overlooked.

Big Travel

The economic effect of COVID-19 has been detrimental to the travel industry. It’s noticeable when we see large hotels empty. It’s obvious when every big business to which we’ve ever naively given our email address blasts out email after email telling us “these times are tough” and that we’re “all in this together.” Ya know, so we don’t forget about giving them our money when the time comes.

The negative impact of COVID-19 on travel is clearly evident when it comes to Big Travel. All you have to do is turn on the news, drive by an airport or look at the stock prices over the last year of airlines, large hotel chains and cruise lines.

But what about everyone else? What about the small businesses?

For every Marriott and InterContinental that is temporarily closing its doors and “looking out for the safety of their valued customers,” there are dozens of small, family-owned hotels, guesthouses and hostels on the verge of collapse. For every canceled Delta, British Airways or Singapore Airlines flight, there are independent tourist transportation companies that are closing their doors forever.

Small businesses in the travel industry don’t have billions of dollars in cash reserves. They can’t “weather the storm” by selling more stock or airline miles. Furloughing employees is a moot point when the employees are your own family members. And government relief is – well, government relief is an oxymoron.

Big Travel will be fine. Like the politicians around the globe that haven’t missed a paycheck while forcing individuals and businesses into bankruptcy, Big Travel will be fine.

It has the cash reserves and infrastructure to survive the economic devastation of this pandemic. Even for the larger companies that don’t have heaps of cash stowed away, governments and banks are eager to get them up and running soon.

After all, a big hotel brings in a lot of local tax revenue (even if the profits probably wind up halfway around the world). Why would a government or financial entity worry about supporting hundreds of local business owners who, in turn, support local communities? It’s easier to support a billion-dollar company that employs local people as housekeepers, cooks, janitors, bellhops and other low-paying jobs? That makes sense! Good thing it has nothing to do with lobbyists or corruption! (*note sarcasm.)

The point is, Big Travel is going to make it through. The rest of the travel industry, much of which quietly depends on backpackers, may not be so lucky.

Backpackers support small businesses. For every tourist that spends a week at an all-inclusive resort, there are backpackers who stay in locally-owned hostels, guest houses or homestays. For every tourist who flies directly into Siem Reap, visits Angkor Wat and flies out a few days later, there is a backpacker who spends another week or two in Cambodia spending money and supporting locally-owned small businesses.

When hordes of tourists give thousands of dollars to a hotel that has corporate headquarters thousands of miles away, the profits from that tourism has a significantly limited impact on the local economy. When you stay at the JW in Bangkok, the InterContinental in Santiago de Chile or the Novotel in Marrakech, that boosts the profits and bottom lines of companies in Maryland, London and Paris, respectively.

Before anyone starts to wonder, let me make something clear: I am not an anti-capitalist, and I neither support nor sympathize with socialist ideologies. I have no issue with hardworking people who grow their businesses into mountains of success and unfathomable revenues. And I will not deny there is an economic benefit of these successful brands.

In fact, the last thing the Hangry Backpacker is supposed to be about is politics. That is a topic I prefer to leave for others. Travel and politics are always intertwined, but that relationship has grown more complicated of late.

What I cannot stand for is the preferential treatment these massive corporations receive over smaller, independent competitors. When it comes to economic relief, the travel industry, the COVID-19 pandemic and the reopening of tourism thereafter, nepotism is alive and well within Big Travel.

Despite possessing billions of dollars in assets and large cash reserves in their deep pockets, many large travel companies have received enormous amounts of government stimulus to stay afloat or (supposedly) stave off mass layoffs. Smaller travel-related businesses, from family-run hostels to tour operators and restaurants, are not as fortunate.

Economic stimulus during the COVID-19 pandemic has been rife with controversy from the beginning. Despite some of the questionable payouts, that’s not where I take issue.

The problem is the resumption of travel and the preferential treatment being given to Big Travel and wealthy tourists. Again, I’m not an anti-capitalist, just an advocate for the importance of backpacking and independent travel.

Governments around the world are enacting measures in the name of safety to see some return of travel-related revenues:

• Mandatory quarantines upon arrival (even if you test negative)
• Iceland is allowing tourists who meet income requirements
• Resorts are opening because they can “control” and “monitor” the immediate environment
• Fiji is open… to yachts!
• Thailand originally imposed an income requirement for tourists, though later rescinded

These are a few of the examples of travel after COVID-19 reverting to its old ways. Travel has become more affordable and more accessible to greater numbers of people with each passing year. These restrictive measures for tourist entry, all in the name of “safety,” do little to stimulate the local economy, benefit few locals and serve only the elite of travelers.

A few wealthy tourists might inject some quick revenue into an area. Reopening an all-inclusive resort might bring a few, low-paying jobs back into the fold. But what about the small businesses that depend on tourism? How do yachts with a few people and resorts at half-capacity help struggling restaurant owners and tour operators?

Thailand’s reopening plan received a lot of attention in the travel world, but it has proven to be a huge failure, this far. I can only imagine this is due to the insane plan to lure someone halfway around the world, only to then force this person to isolate in a room for 10-14 days. Yeah, no thanks.

While travel options are more reasonable for wealthy individuals, backpackers, budget travelers and poorer individuals trying to travel in the age of COVID are ignored. Even large bus companies are struggling, though their budget-conscious customers are the real losers, unable to affordably travel for any reason.

Conscientious Travel

Conscientious buying – that is, buying from a company that has a good reputation for treatment of its employees or purchasing a product that supports a good cause – is trending upward in recent years. This is a good thing (and, by the way, pretty much the epitome of Capitalism 101).

Conscientious travel is, from an economic standpoint, making an effort to support local business and the local population when traveling. Whether that is done by choosing to stay in a hostel, eating at local cafes or shopping at local stores, there are a variety of ways to travel conscientiously.

Backpacking at its most basic level means traveling on a budget, and large, recognizable brands are typically out of the price range of backpackers. This leads to a huge segment of travelers seeking more affordable options. The result is a large contingent of hostels, small hotels and guesthouses catering to budget travelers.

Backpacking largely, by default, has a similar impact as conscientious travel. Whether or not a backpacker travels with the intention of saving the world, the effects of this kind of travel are more likely to benefit local citizenry.

In recent years, as consumer habits trend towards more conscientious buying, travelers have also become more aware of where their money goes. Backpacking has been a more conscientious method of travel for decades, and, when travel really, fully reopens after COVID-19, backpacking should be at the forefront.

Backpacking is an easy way to travel conscientiously, but it’s not the only way. And my goal here (in this post) is not to convince people to start backpacking. I do that on a regular basis anyway.

Rather, when the time comes that travel resumes after COVID-19, instead of hopping on a plane to the nearest all-inclusive piece of paradise that benefits Big Travel thousands of miles away, maybe find a local hotel or even an Airbnb in that destination. Or, if you really want to experience the backpacker vibe, there are plenty of reasons to stay at a hostel.

The Current State of Travel

As previously mentioned, travel has become more accessible and affordable than ever. Whether this is due to relaxing visa policies/entrance requirements, the rise of the Airbnb-type of accommodation, improved fuel efficiency (and, thus, lower prices) of air travel, more people are able to travel. Prior to COVID-19 slipping out of China and crushing economies and livelihoods around the world, more people were traveling than ever.

Obviously, at the time of this writing (end of 2020), there isn’t much travel of any kind happening around the world. Most people who are traveling now, though few in number, are traveling slowly, locally or staying put in one area.

The digital nomad contingent, along with the lockdown-fatigued, is finding (primarily warm) places accepting outsiders and settling in to pass the Winter months or wait out the rest of the pandemic. Mexico, in particular, is crawling with tourists seeking an affordable, warm and open place to travel. Mexico has provided exactly that.

Turkey and several countries in the Balkans have largely remained open and capitalized on the fledgling tourist market. With pre-travel testing requirements and constantly-changing rules, travel in these areas has been, at best, unpredictable.

Aside from digital nomads and a few destinations catering to yacht-goers, the current state of travel is virtually nonexistent. However, even if more countries were open to tourism, there are a lot of curiosities and uncertainties regarding the state of travel.

Several countries that permit tourists entry are requiring said tourists to quarantine for up to 14 days upon arrival. For the average tourist, that means they cannot go. It simply isn’t worth taking a trip if they have to spend two weeks stuck in a hotel room. In some cases, even a fresh negative COVID test is insufficient to exit this quarantine. So, why even bother?

For backpackers and budget travelers, budgets are not designed for two weeks of thumb-twiddling in a (likely-overpriced) pre-approved hotel quarantine. These measures eliminate a majority of prospective travelers from the start.

To make matters worse, there are some countries blatantly tracking tourists by requiring them to install tracking apps on their phones. I mean, we all know governments and tech companies can and will track us if they so choose, but to blatantly, openly require tracking does not sit well with a lot of people.

Travel & COVID Vaccines

Then there’s the vaccine. By all accounts, the COVID vaccines could be the saving grace for travel, tourism, restaurants, sports and so on. But it’s a little more complicated than that. Some countries are floating the idea of requiring vaccines in order to enter.

On the business side, some travel companies are considering requiring customers to be vaccinated in the future. Specifically, Qantas, an Australian airline, was one of the first to make such an announcement.

As I am NOT an epidemiologist or virologist or whatever expert who knows about vaccines, I’m not going to argue for or against the safety and efficacy of a vaccine. I am not the expert, and I am not going to pretend to be an expert.

What I can understand, though, is the anger and outrage over the prospect of a COVID-vaccine passport in order to travel. I can understand the frustration with being denied service for not being vaccinated when you are healthy and can prove it. Thus, I am not surprised by the reactions to this news or the backlash against Qantas.

I’m all for travel. As one who has been personally crushed by the collapse of the travel industry, I’m not particularly opposed to being vaccinated myself (whether or not I think it’s necessary as a healthy, active 30-year-old). In fact, if the vaccines are deemed safe, and getting injected means I will soon be allowed to travel freely, I’ll get one as soon as possible.

What I’m not thrilled about is the possibility of being tracked (more than usual) when I travel. I’m not naive. No one lives a wholly unsurveilled life in the 21st century, but the idea – at least some semblance – of privacy is appreciated.

My American spirit is also resistant to being forced to do just about anything. And I’m really not so happy with the idea of a COVID passport.

My personal feelings aside, I am reluctant to believe that any of these proposed measures will succeed, much less receive widespread support. And this may further complicate the state of travel in the coming months.

If these requirements are not embraced by the public, a resumption of travel after COVID-19 will be moot. In other words, it doesn’t matter if a country reopens its borders to tourists if people aren’t willing to be vaccinated, tracked and acquire a special COVID passport.

In other words, the current state of travel is complicated, controversial and grim. And while I am trying to remain optimistic, the future of travel is uncertain.

What’s Happening With Backpacking Now?

At the moment, backpacking is almost nonexistent. The infrastructure of backpacking is almost entirely shut down.

Hostels

Hostels are largely closed. The nature of shared spaces and dorm rooms is not exactly in line with COVID-related safety protocols.

There are tens of thousands of hostels around the world, and a majority of backpackers stay in hostels. These hostels are primarily independently owned and operated as small businesses.

The widespread closure of hostels adds another challenge for backpackers and other budget travelers. While there are still affordable options out there, some of the countries currently open for travel are not allowing hostels to operate dorms. Hostel prices are inflated in other places.

Hostels are part of the fabric of backpacking. At the moment, however, hostels are in a grey area of operation that tends to vary significantly by region.

Tour Groups

Tour groups, those that take backpackers and budget travelers on day trips and short excursions, are shut down. Many of these attractions which draw tourists are closed anyway. Even in the few places that are open, tour groups for day trips are limiting capacity. That is unsustainable.

I personally know an individual in Laos who operates a hostel/guesthouse and small tour company. By Lao standards, he does pretty well. However, he is on the verge of bankruptcy as he hasn’t had a single tourist or guest in months.

I doubt the Lao government has been sending out tremendous amounts of economic relief. In fact, “relief” in Laos is predominantly in the form of tax exemptions for low income earners, however, that doesn’t really matter for those in the tourism industry who have no income to tax anyway.

That’s not a jab at Laos. The country (and many, many others) simply cannot afford to hand out billions of dollars on a whim, and this man I know cannot depend on domestic tourism in a very, very poor country.

Personally, I hate hate organized tours and tour groups, but they have their place and purpose. For backpackers traveling now, don’t expect much from tour groups. Those that are somehow still in operation have limited services.

Transportation

Small, independent transportation operations which tourists support are largely shut down and out of business. This applies to the tourist-dependent transportation operations, though, so backpackers aren’t entirely stuck with hitchhiking.

Unlike other aspects of backpacking, the transportation situation is not as dire. Tourist transportation companies are in a bind, but backpackers often take local transportation. Local transportation companies may be feeling the effects from a lack of tourists but are generally still in operation as they exist to primarily serve local residents.

Restaurants & Food Service

The food service sector is getting destroyed by a lack of tourism. In the United States, 1 out of 6 restaurants (over 100,000) has closed permanently. That’s a national average in the wealthiest country in the world. In areas reliant on tourism, that number is probably higher. Internationally, the outlook for restaurants is more bleak.

Backpackers traveling now will find a lot of typical backpacker haunts closed. The backpacking community is a major supporter of thousands of cafes, restaurants, bars and nightclubs. This industry is not doing very well at the moment.

Perhaps the most notable change in backpacker eating habits will be street food. Street food is the best. It’s provides a fun, cheap, authentic and delicious way to enjoy our travels even more. Backpackers are big supporters of street food in tourist destinations, and that market has all but vanished.

In Thailand, one of the great street food countries of the world, vendors have disappeared. This extends to food halls and night markets around the world.

Like all travel at the moment, backpacking looks a lot different across the world. It hasn’t completely disappeared, but it’s not the same.

The Future of Backpacking After COVID-19?

The near future of travel in general is fairly clear, even if the specifics remain uncertain. Eventually, probably sooner than later, more and more countries will open their borders to tourists. This trend will continue in the coming months as vaccines roll out and economies can no longer withstand the travel shutdown.

We’re already seeing airlines slowly increase available flights and destinations. Cruise lines are preparing a return to the seas. Resorts are beginning to reopen, and large hotel chains are ready to welcome guests.

The future of backpacking, on the other hand, is unclear. Sure, eventually, backpacking will return to normal. Due to the financial abilities of (and preferences given to) Big Travel, how long the resurgence of backpacking will take is anybody’s guess.

The Negative

The unfortunate truth is backpacking will probably be slower to return than other, more lucrative sectors of the travel industry. Despite the fact that the economic impact of backpackers is far-reaching beyond major cities and resorts, priority will be given to the larger tax generators.

When it comes to tourism, most governments prioritize a faster, larger overall revenue above a larger number of individuals benefiting from said revenue.

Hostels, bars, cheap tourist transport and attractions – essentially the entire landscape that makes backpacking what it is (and, in turn, that backpackers support) – will see a slower return to normal than larger competitors. I don’t want to be a pessimist, and I hope I’m (quickly!) proven wrong, but all signs point to priorities given to Big Travel.

I anticipate the emphasis of initial tourism reopenings will fall on high-volume, big-spending ventures. These places make it easier for governments to point to higher revenues (even though they’re concentrated in smaller areas and fewer hands), monitor reopenings, cheer “economic recovery!” and promote the idea of “safely” returning to travel.

The Positive

In Western countries, we all clamor about the importance of small business. We brag about “buying local” and supporting the little guy at farmers markets. Why does that go right out the door when we travel?

Of course, for obvious reasons, I’m not talking about airlines. Once on the ground, too many tourists suddenly don’t care about supporting local businesses anymore. Small business is the backbone of economies all around the world, not just your hometown and mine.

Backpacking should be the first kind of tourism in the post-COVID world of travel. I highly doubt this will come to fruition, but it would be an excellent way for countries to ease back into tourism and see the impact of travel expand beyond big cities and Big Travel.

When travel resumes, backpacking after COVID-19 will be more important than ever. Those of us who choose to travel beyond the big cities and all-inclusive resorts will be helping the economic recovery process spread to small and independent businesses.

Backpacking after COVID-19 will be an opportunity to travel and make a difference with our spending. It’s not all charity, though, and the first backpackers on the road after COVID-19 will enjoy some special experiences.

Imagine traveling to one of your bucket list destinations – one of those famous and always-crowded places. Only when travel resumes after COVID-19, backpackers will have the chance to truly beat the crowds.

A lot of people will be hesitant to travel, and the first wave of travelers going back out into the world probably will be so happy to be somewhere different that the focus won’t be on going somewhere unusual or too far off the beaten path. Hordes of tourists that have driven so many travelers away from some of the world’s spectacular attractions may be few for a brief time.

Chances like this rarely come around. Overtourism is real. If you want to see some of the world’s amazing sights with fewer people, be ready to pack your bags. And, maybe, wait for others to join you. Perhaps they’ll eventually decide to tag along. Of course, if you’re serious about going sooner than later never, you can always set off by yourself.

Backpacking after COVID-19 may also be cheaper, too. Ultimately, this remains to be seen, but simple economics would suggest prices will be competitive to attract the business of the few travelers in the first waves.

Not a Backpacker? What Can You Do?

As travelers, we are consumers. We can control (to an extent) where our money goes.

When the time comes that you decide to travel again, whether that is halfway around the world or a brief weekend away, spend wisely and thoughtfully. Support small business as much as possible.

You can stay at an independent hotel. Eat at a local cafe. Shop somewhere that isn’t a mall or big box store.

You don’t have to undertake an enormous backpacking adventure to save the world when you travel. Though I highly recommend doing so if you are able, there are plenty of ways to travel independently, travel cheaper and support the forgotten sectors of the global travel industry.

Local and independent tourist services provide the experiences that make our travels unique and memorable. Now, more than ever, this part of the travel industry needs our support.

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COVID-19 has nearly killed travel. Tourism of any kind is on life support. Measures have been taken by governments and businesses in an attempt to alleviate the pain, but these measures are not feasible on a long-term basis.

Whatever happens in the next few months, the demand for travel – truly, the intensely growing desire to travel – is increasing by the day. We’re all sick of this mess, especially those of us afflicted with severe wanderlust. (And that’s nothing compared to the COVID effects no one likes to talk about or the thousands of additional cancer deaths caused by COVID lockdowns.)

Backpacking is one of the most enjoyable, educational and enlightening ways to travel. It’s cheap, exciting and, best of all, so much fun. Unfortunately, the conversation surrounding travel after COVID-19 largely forgets to mention backpacking.

Backpackers are the foundation of small, independent travel. When the time comes, traveling on the cheap, with little more than a backpack and a desire to experience the world, will be better and more important than ever. Don’t miss out.

Eating local and cheap is the goal when I travel. It doesn’t really matter what the food is, as long as it’s budget-friendly, enjoyed by the local residents and, of course, good – that’s what the Hangry Backpacker is all about.

In other words, you won’t find me in a Starbucks outside of the United States. Well, to be frank, thanks to years living in the coffee capital of the USA – that being the coffee-obsessed city of Portland – you won’t see me in a Starbucks anywhere.

When I travel, especially when traveling abroad, my favorite way to experience a destination is through the food. Food is culture. And history. Politics. Geography. Business. Happiness. Food provides so much information about a place and its people.

With that sort of respect and emphasis toward food, especially since I constantly mention it here, I do my best to seek authentic eating experiences. Local restaurants, the kind of places where a normal resident of whatever town I’m in would stop for lunch or after work. There are exceptions, but that explanation is for another time.

The point is that the last thing I want to do when I travel is wind up in a tourist restaurant. Unfortunately, the reality is mistakes are occasionally made. Sometimes travelers end up in places they typically wish to avoid. 

On a backpacking trip last year, I made just that mistake. My hangry attitude took control. This is what happened:

Head for the Guinness Sign

On my third or fourth day in Madrid, after spending several hours aimlessly walking around – based on my meandrous travel nature, probably some 10 miles at this point – I was getting a little hungry. Well, I was a little thirsty. And tired.

To me, the best solution to figure out which direction to search for some incredible Spanish food and decide what to do with the remainder of my day was to find a pub. Once there, I would be able to quench the powerful thirst I built up getting lost. And maybe have a snack while doing some light planning.

As I was walking down a busy street, I saw a Guinness sign. It was calling out to me, beckoning me to step inside, relax and enjoy a pint. Or maybe a liter. Perhaps two!

By this point, I was tired and my body was a wee bit on the achy side. My back was stiff. My feet hurt. A large, cold cerveza would surely be the remedy to my pathetic state.

Better yet, if I chose the lazy route, called it a day and wound up spending a couple of hours in a local bar, I could certainly live with that. As long as I’m in a local establishment, I can count this as work and experiencing life in Madrid.

That Guinness sign should’ve been a red flag. I see Guinness as a global brand because it is a global brand, the same as Coca-Cola. My assumption was that a Guinness sign in Madrid simply meant one thing: a bar that also served Guinness.

That’s not unusual, and that iconic black logo with white letters and a gold whatever-it-is above just means ‘bar’ to me. I had no idea what was next.

Trapped in a Tourist Bar

As I walked into this unassuming, perhaps-nameless bar, an Irish pub to be precise, it was dark. In my experience, most Spanish pubs, bars, tabernas, etc are not dark like the dim-lit, comfy watering holes I generally prefer. They’re bright. And that’s fine, because that’s the Spanish way.

That was the second red flag I missed. Nevermind that. I was blinded by tunnel vision, seeing nothing but my little table as I was led to a small corner in the back of the pub.

Setting my bag down on the floor beneath my chair, a waitress arrived as soon as I popped up my head. Instinctively, I began to greet her in my horrendous, locution-limited attempt at the Spanish language. I don’t know much, but I know enough to get by. And I can certainly order a beer.

“Hola! Buenos” had yet to fully escape my mouth when she interrupted my well-rehearsed phrase.

In near-perfect English, “Hi, how are you? Do you know what you want to drink, or do you need a moment?”

Surprised, I fumbled through the menu, pointed to a beer on the menu and stuttered, “Cerveza, La Virgen. Grande, por favor.” She didn’t even reply in Spanish. Instead, English with that thin accent responded, assuring me my cerveza would be out quickly.

In my haste, I picked out a local craft beer with which I was already familiar and knew was good. No harm there. But I was baffled hearing the best English I’d heard from a local, barely the slightest touch of an accent, after several days in Spain. Not to disparage Spaniards, but their accents are strong.

I didn’t hear a lot of English in Spain. And I enjoy the accent when they do speak English. That’s perfectly fine with me. I like a certain element of feeling like I’m in a foreign country, and that includes language. It’s not like I travel expecting, even hoping, to be able to speak English. Little challenges like navigating language barriers make travel more fun.

A moment or two later, something else strange happened. The loud, indiscernible bar rabble began to make sense. I could understand what people were saying. Not because my knowledge of Spanish suddenly improved, and I hadn’t consumed any funny substances making me think I could understand a foreign language.

Pretty much everyone in the bar – customers and staff – was speaking English. Intermingled with the Spanish accents of staff at this pub were English accents, Australian hollers and American voices, too.

This state of confusion must have lasted a few minutes. I snapped back to the present when my glass was clunked down in front of me. I took a large gulp. Then another.

It’s like I was waking from a dream. Everything in my immediate surroundings suddenly came crisply into focus. The loud, distinctly-English voices. The televisions, too – they were all playing English soccer channels. IN SPAIN!

In case you’re not familiar with soccer in Europe, let me say this: In Spain, you watch La Liga, the Spanish league. The Premier League (England) is secondary. This is almost like watching a Canadian Football League game in an American bar.

There was one exception. The TV nearest my seat was playing a Major League Baseball game, the Yankees to be precise. And a guy watching it, sitting at the table just a few feet away from me, was wearing an Aaron Judge grey (away game) jersey.

How did I not notice all of this? When I first stepped inside the bar to take a peak and size up the place, how did I not hear the foreign (American, British, etc) accents? How did I not see the guy one table over decked out in Yankees gear like a good American?

Was I really that tired? Perhaps it was sightseeing-induced, hangry blindness?

Maybe I was just so used to tuning out a language that I really cannot understand that I automatically did the same in this Irish pub. Or maybe I didn’t notice my surroundings because they were reminiscent of familiar scenes from home: Dark bars. American sports (or the EPL). Loud drunk people watching said sports. Yep, that sounds like home.

Whatever the reason, I was oblivious to my surroundings at this tourist bar in Madrid. The Guinness sign led me astray. Tired, hangry and impatient, I let down my guard. I made the mistake.

Sometimes I watch the EPL. And I love baseball. Go Bronx Bombers, but what the hell was I doing there?

What’s the Deal with Tourist Bars?

I don’t see the allure of traveling to another country and seeking a place where it feels like you’re at home. It’s utter madness to go out of your way, literally to another country, to do the same things you do at home.

I’ve made that mistake, too. In Santiago, Chile, several years ago, I found myself at a freaking Ruby Tuesday’s watching an American college football game. To be fair (to myself), it wasn’t entirely my idea.

This mistake in Chile was only about 4 hours of my life, but I still regret wasting that time and money. I even recall feeling a little disappointed in myself at that moment. Sitting next to other Americans in an American chain restaurant 8000 miles from home, I knew that wasn’t what I wanted to do with my travels.

To this day, as I’ve learned more about Chile, I kick myself for wasting that evening. You never know when you’ll make it back somewhere. Travel and life is unpredictable in the best of times. Several years later, I still haven’t returned to Chile. I plan to return, but, ya know, life.

Back to Madrid. What were all of these people – Americans, Brits, Australians – doing sitting in a tourist bar in Spain?

At first, I considered maybe they were in Madrid on business. Then I cleared that up. International business travelers whom I have encountered tend to stand out. They aren’t the type to get trashed at a pub with all their mates. They aren’t the kind of travelers that pack their Yankees jerseys around the world.

Maybe all of these people made the same mistake I did? Again, I don’t think so. They all looked perfectly content surrounded by like individuals, chowing down on cheeseburgers and fish n’chips, drinking copious amounts of Budweiser and Guinness. Forget about jamón or Mahou (local food and drink). Not in this place.

What the hell is going on here? Madrid is a cool city. Why even bother traveling to Spain to spend hours getting drunk in a tourist bar?

The Escape

After I finished my beer, I actually ordered a second round, a Cibeles. This time I didn’t even attempt to communicate in Spanish. All I really wanted to do was leave and find a local cafe or taberna that was surely hiding a few blocks away, but I was slightly mesmerized by this little Anglo-American tourist bubble in a Madrid bar.

It was surreal, circus-like, watching the stumbling, bumbling, blubbering foreigners pretend they weren’t in Spain. Part of me was humored. Another part felt pity. And yet another tiny piece of me envied their company. At the very least, they were having fun.

By the time I finished the last drop of my hefty Spanish craft beer, I regained my senses and was more than ready to leave. When I finally left, I quickly exited and felt as if I needed to sneak out and not be seen – I kept my head down and immediately inserted myself in the middle of a sidewalk crowd – like a preacher not wanting to get caught leaving a strip club.

Of course, no one cared. And no one in Madrid knew me. It was silly to feel this way, but I know better than to go to a tourist bar, especially what must be the tourist bar in Madrid.

Here at the Hangry Backpacker, I constantly mention the benefits of going to local places, often taking jabs at tourist traps and non-local eats. Yet here I was, feeling like the world’s biggest hypocrite, trying to escape the scene of my crime.

I wanted a Mahou, a plate of boquerones, some jamón or at least a scoop of olives. I wanted to be in one of those places where I can’t understand any of the words spoken to or around me, but I still can’t help but smile because of where I am. I wanted to feel like I was in that place – in Spain, in Madrid. Instead, I wasted over an hour in an Irish pub that could have been anywhere in the world.

Don’t Be Hangry

Travelers of all experience levels make mistakes. We learn lessons every day. Learning is an intrinsic part of travel, and sometimes we have to make those silly mistakes for the lesson to register.

My mistake was patience, or, more accurately, a lack of patience. There is no perfect formula to backpacking. Part of the fun is just going and figuring things out as they happen. Wrong turns and mistakes happen, and that’s okay – hell, in hindsight, it’s usually fun! – but the overpriced, avoidable mistakes and wasted time due to hangry impatience are the ones that bug me. At least my beer was good.

As for the other patrons in this tourist bar, I don’t get it. Several months later, this silly experience, my own mistake and all those hooligans still gets to me.

Everyone travels in their own way, and I’m certainly not the arbiter of what does and does not constitute the proper, best or appropriate manner of travel. I just can’t understand the attraction or benefit of going to such lengths to do the same things we do at home. That’s not why I travel.

Irish pubs are great at the right time. When I travel, even close to home, I pride myself on finding local establishments to support. There are tons of benefits to frequenting local businesses. Service is typically better. Prices are better. The economic impact is more likely to benefit the local community.

When it comes to food, local restaurants often have better food. At the very least, especially compared to a tourist bar or restaurant, your meal will be more authentic and cheaper. If you’re lucky, you might enjoy an unforgettable local experience.

I’m usually pretty good about recognizing a place designed for the tourist hordes. That’s not always the case. Sometimes we wander in the wrong direction.

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Travel is a practice. The perfect trip does not exist. No level of preparation can guarantee that every moment runs without a hitch. Every traveler, no matter how experienced or seasoned, makes the occasional mistake. Some mistakes are as small as forgetting that second application of sunscreen. Some mistakes loom larger, like missing a flight or losing your wallet in Bangkok.

Most mistakes travelers make are inconsequential, but every one is a chance to learn and travel smarter the next time. My pride is the only thing that was damaged in this tourist bar in Madrid. I should have known better than to walk into an Irish pub in Spain.