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Get Lost

Phonsavan & Laos’ Plain of Jars

February 15, 2019 By Hangry Backpacker Leave a Comment

Laos’ Plain of Jars. More like a bunch of Plain Jars. Yeah, that’s a pretty bad joke, but it’s an honest observation.

plain of jars phonsavan laos

This mysterious site in northeastern Laos attracts the curiosity of thousands of people annually. If you find yourself in Laos, wondering where to venture next, you will notice the Plain of Jars pop up in search results, brochures and in tour offices. [Read more…] about Phonsavan & Laos’ Plain of Jars

Filed Under: Get Lost

Istanbul: Tourist Attractions for First-Time Visitors

February 12, 2019 By Hangry Backpacker Leave a Comment

Choosing which Istanbul tourist attraction to see is no easy task. For first-time visitors, especially independent backpackers, the enormity and apparent disarray of the city can be overwhelming.

istanbul tukey

Istanbul is one of the world’s great cities. The historic city dates back thousands of years, and, owing to its vital location at the crossroads of Europe and Asia, has drawn the envy of neighbors since its founding. Today, that historic city boasts plenty of reminders from a colorful past that feature the city’s strategic eminence.

Here are five fun things to do for a first-time visitor to Istanbul – a couple of major sites and a few different activities for a more comprehensive trip: [Read more…] about Istanbul: Tourist Attractions for First-Time Visitors

Filed Under: City Guides

Do Tourists Ruin the World’s Most Famous Attractions?

January 26, 2019 By Hangry Backpacker 1 Comment

(UPDATED: 2024) Are famous tourist attractions worth visiting when you have to constantly fight through crowds?

It’s not the simplest question to answer. Sometimes, the answer is yes. Sometimes, no. Travel is the best, but tourists are the worst. We destroy everything, but that’s a topic for another day. The question is whether or not the world’s most famous tourist attractions are still worth visiting in spite of the crowds.

crowds of tourists waiting for sunrise at the world famous Angkor Wat

Everyone wants the perfect trip or vacation, and we want it to feel unique. The allure of tourist attractions is often lost when crowds grow larger, so when do the crowds become too much? Here is a breakdown of some of the world’s most popular tourist attractions, and whether these locations are still worth visiting in spite of crowds of tourists.

The Mona Lisa – Paris, France

No, no, no and no. What a waste of time!

The Louvre is the most famous, largest and most visited art museum in the world. It’s fantastic. It has everything.

The museum’s most famous piece is Da Vinci’s mysterious Mona Lisa. It’s probably the most famous artwork in the world, so that makes sense. I’m not an art critic, but please let me save you some time. If you have seen a picture of the Mona Lisa, that is sufficient.

There are thousands of pieces to see in this museum. It would take weeks, perhaps months, to see it all. Don’t waste your time fighting the crowds – seriously, the crowds are ludicrous – to get a glimpse of the Mona Lisa behind a thick glass case. The painting is no more impressive in person, and there are other Da Vinci works in the Louvre. Not to mention, there are jaw-dropping Jacques-Louis David’s (one of my favorites) a few rooms away.

If you don’t believe me, check out these crowds around the Mona Lisa. There is now even a time limit for viewing the famous painting.

See the room, note the crowds, then move along and enjoy the rest of the museum.

Hagia Sophia – Istanbul, Turkey

Yes. Absolutely. The Hagia Sophia is the most famous tourist attraction in Turkey for all the right reasons. It is historic, beautiful and daunting. Upon entering, it feels as if you are inside a mountain.

interior ceiling and dome of Hagia Sofia crowds of tourists inside the Hagia Sofia, Istanbul's most famous tourist attraction

What about the tourist crowds? Surely, the most iconic tourist attraction in a city of 16+ million is busy, right?

Yes, this place is busy and crowded. The line to get in can take quite a while. I waited for well over an hour, but it was worth it. Directly opposite the Hagia Sophia is the Blue Mosque, a dazzling display of Ottoman Architecture. As the adjacent Blue Mosque is another popular tourist site, crowds are even larger in the area. This district of Istanbul, the Fatih District, is the hub of tourism in the city and home to several famous attractions.

crowds of tourists outside the Hagia Sofia, the famous Istanbul tourist attraction
Hagia Sophia

The Hagia Sophia is not only a must-see for Istanbul. It is one of the most popular tourist sites in the world, and, from an historical standpoint, represents a critical turning point in the history of the Western World.  Once inside, crowds disperse within the massive structure, leaving you plenty of room to explore.

Grand Canyon – Arizona, USA

This is easy. The Grand Canyon is busy, and there are plenty of tourists crowding the areas near park entrances. 

The Grand Canyon is stunning and perplexing. It is such a bewildering sight with the multitude of colors, layers and sheer enormity that, honestly, it looks fake. America’s favorite gorge is truly gargantuan. This giant hole in the ground is almost as large as the US state of Delaware. Such a big ditch attracts huge numbers of visitors. With over 6 million visitors annually, the Grand Canyon is the second-most popular national park in the US.

tourists posing for pictures at the popular South Rim viewing area of the Grand Canyon

Is it worth traveling to the middle of nowhere – an hour outside of Flagstaff, Arizona – to see the Grand Canyon? With tens of thousands of other people every day?

Absolutely, yes. The visitor centers are very busy, but the Grand Canyon is over 200 miles long and 4 miles wide at its narrowest point. If you can’t find a perch or a corner to yourself, you aren’t trying. The South Rim Visitor Center is by far the busiest part of the park. All it takes is a short walk in any direction or a 5-minute drive and the scene is all yours.

view of the Grand Canyon from the South Rim

Perhaps the Grand Canyon, one of the most famous natural tourist attractions in the world, is too busy in certain areas. Fortunately, the natural wonder is so large that it is relatively easy to lose the crowds and is well worth a visit.

Angkor Wat – Angkor, Cambodia

Angkor Wat is a treasure of Southeast Asia. It is also one of the most famous tourist attractions in the region. Not long ago, the temple complex was a difficult place to reach. In recent years, as Cambodia has become more accessible, it seems everyone is going to Angkor Wat. The secret is out, but I do have some tips here!

Despite Angkor’s popularity, most of the images we see evoke ideas of an ancient civilization lost in the jungle. In reality, it is far from lost. Development in and around the park is limited, and preservation efforts have been effective; but the city of Siem Reap, a short drive from Angkor where all tourists stay, is built on tourism. Resorts, amusement parks and all. A buildup of this magnitude brings millions of people each year.

crowds of thousands of tourists gather at Angkor Wat for sunrise
Sunrise at Angkor Wat

Angkor Wat is the most prominent and well known temple in an area of hundreds of temples, with sunrise being the most crowded time of day. Thousands of people wake in the pre-dawn darkness, hoping it’s the perfect morning for a magical photograph of the sun rising above the famous temple. What surprises many tourists is that morning magic at Angkor Wat includes a crowd with several thousand tourists all clamoring for the perfect shot in the same place.

The crowds are not exclusive to the main temple. Other popular choices near the center of the park also have their fair share of tourists. Crowds form and people actually line up to get the same photo as everyone else.

tourists in line for a photo at the famous Tomb Raider temple in Angkor, Cambodia

With the intense tourist crowds, has the magic disappeared? Frankly, yes. Angkor Wat is fantastic, but there are thousands and thousands of people around. Even the “low season” at Angkor is busy. Angkor Wat is the epitome of overtourism.

Cast aside any preconceived notion of visiting a lost temple in the remote Cambodian jungle. Civilization is right next door, and, again, the secret’s out.

Despite the crowds and disrespectful tourists (it’s a holy site, after all), a visit is still worth the long journey required to reach Angkor IF you’re willing to look beyond the most popular attractions. There are plenty of other ancient sites in the area without mobs of tourist crowds.

However, if a mystical Angkor Wat is the primary concern, it may be best to consider other destinations. That place doesn’t exist. Personally, I’m not in any kind of hurry to go back soon – and I loved Cambodia.

Arthur’s Seat – Edinburgh, Scotland

The best view in Edinburgh is from Arthur’s Seat. From the top, views encompass much of the city all the way to the Firth of Forth.

View of Edinburgh from an empty Arthur's Seat

The hike up to Arthur’s Seat, past the Salisbury Crags, presents little difficulty to most visitors. There’s no worry or need of technical skills. The only requirement is a bit of stamina. The path is rocky, but fairly wide along the way.

View of Arthur's Seat in Edinburgh from Edinburgh Castle
Edinburgh, Scotland

Arthur’s Seat is a popular point of interest for tourists and locals. On a nice day, there can certainly be crowds at the top. But don’t fret. It’s not as if you won’t have room to move and take photos. There is plenty of space and the view doesn’t change. It’s always great, making Arthur’s Seat a popular tourist attraction definitely worth a visit.

Edinburgh Castle, on the other hand, is a famous tourist attraction that does get incredibly busy. The castle is cool and photogenic, but it’s location in the tourist center of Edinburgh renders serious crowds.

Charles Bridge – Prague, Czech Republic

The more-than-600-year-old Charles Bridge is the symbol of Prague. The old stone structure spans the Vltava River and links Prague Old Town with other famous tourist attractions such as Prague Castle and the John Lennon Wall.

The iconic structure is among the first stops for visitors to Prague. Thousands of them. This relatively small pedestrian bridge is inundated with tourists from sunrise to sunset. The only thing separating the tourists from one another is the dozens of vendors peddling overpriced trinkets.

tourist crowds around an old tower on Charles Bridge in Prague, Czech Republic

It’s not just the bridge. The whole city center is overrun with tourists. Even with a few tips to avoid tourists in Prague, it is hard to find places without crowds. The Charles Bridge, in particular, is one of those places where the large number of tourists takes away from the atmosphere. It can’t be avoided in a visit to Prague, but enjoy it from afar. The river banks or islands are good places to sufficiently see the bridge. Of all the popular tourist sites in Prague, a walk on the Charles Bridge is one activity to skip.

Times Square – New York City, USA

New York City’s famous Times Square sucks. I’ve had the fortune of visiting the Big Apple several times (thanks in part to my sister, who used to call Manhattan home), and I cannot imagine a place less representative or authentic than the New York City Tourist Fair – I mean, Times Square.

Crowds of tourists taking pictures and hanging out in Times Square in New York City at night
NYC Tourist Fair

Filled with bright, flashing signs, overpriced everything (even for New York) and loads of tourists, there is only one reason to go to Times Square: to see it. Once you’ve seen Times Square, move along. There are many other tourist hotspots in New York City more deserving of your time. Better yet, the city is one of the world’s great places to wander. Get moving!

Alhambra – Granada, Spain

Alhambra of Granada is one of the most visited and famous tourist attractions in Spain. The hilltop complex includes multiple palaces, gardens, ancient ruins and a fortress. Millions of tourists visit Alhambra each year.

The problem with visiting Alhambra in Granada is not that this popular tourist site is constantly crowded at every turn. The problem is tour groups. Tour groups descend on Alhambra and clog the sidewalks, small rooms and every potential photo op. Selfie sticks from these tour groups block views and annoy the hell out of other visitors. The hordes of tour groups in Alhambra are a frustration during a visit, but do these crowds ruin a visit to the site?

Tour group standing outside in the rain at the Alhambra in Granada, Spain

Alhambra tour groups come in waves, and, at times, they annoyingly clog the paths of this world-famous tourist attraction. That’s the good news. Aside from the groups, Alhambra is busy but not overwhelming. To avoid the crowds at Alhambra, visit in the offseason when there are fewer groups. If you find yourself stuck in the midst of a group, you can rush ahead (they generally move slowly) or exercise patience and just wait it out. Alhambra is worth a visit despite crowds. Be patient to allow plenty of time for the groups to get out of the way.

Khao San Road – Bangkok, Thailand

Another popular tourist site that sucks is Khao San Road. The epicenter of the Southeast Asian backpacker world is not a fair portrayal of Bangkok. It is the tourist’s Bangkok.

Thailand’s capital city is enormous. Not only is it home to over 10 million people, it is one of the most visited cities in the entire world by number of tourists. The city is full of popular, interesting tourist attractions worthy of your visit. Authentic Bangkok is not hard to find, either. All it takes is a little wandering.

Khao San Road is, at most, worth a look at night. Stroll through the madness, and try to resist the vendors and scantily-clad hostesses attempting to lure you in for dinner and drinks. And don’t go for a massage. Chances are it’s not actually a massage. Judging from the overall layer of grime on this street, even by Bangkok standards, it would be wise to eat elsewhere. And with hordes of inebriated tourists come lots of sticky hands. Mind your pockets.

crowded Khao San Road in Bangkok, full of tourists during night time

A few blocks from Khao San Road, there are much cleaner and nicer restaurants. However, many of these are expensive. For the famous, cheap Thai prices, venture a little farther out and find a place with locals. This is not a difficult task in Bangkok, and, as an added bonus, the beer will be cheaper, too.

De Wallen, Amsterdam’s Red-Light District – the Netherlands

Yes, go for a quick tour. A visit to Amsterdam’s infamous district of debauchery doesn’t mean you have to go whoring around yourself. And you don’t have to blaze up in coffee shops. Participation is up to you.

De Wallen, the official name of the red-light district, is a beautiful area of Amsterdam. Yes, it’s full of tourists and creepy women behind glass doors, but there is a lot more to this area than cloudy minds and herpes. During the daytime, the red-light district is tame. There are more tour groups wandering the narrow streets than creepy, concupiscent tourists.

Amsterdam Red Light District coffeeshop sign high snack sign at night in Amsterdam Red Light District

The red-light district is in an area that is hundreds of years old. Canals cut through the alleys and provide scenes from photographer’s dreams. As for the tourists, there are a lot. But that applies to central Amsterdam as a whole – packed with tourists. The result, the bright side, is one of the best people-watching locales in the world, and there are some seriously eccentric individuals meandering through the red-glowing labyrinth of De Wallen.

Tourists walking along a canal in the evening in Amsterdam's famous most famous attraction, the Red Light District

Amsterdam’s most famous district is not the coolest place in the city. The capital of the Netherlands is much more than one small area full of tourists. However, despite the crowds and the negative connotations associated with the red-light district, it is one famous tourist attraction that is still worth a quick peep show.

French Quarter – New Orleans, Louisiana (USA)

Another center of sin, though not quite so debaucherous as De Wallen, is the French Quarter in New Orleans. Undoubtedly, one of the most beautiful and unique (architecturally) neighborhoods in the United States, the French Quarter is New Orleans’ most famous tourist attraction and attracts thousands of visitors every day of the year. These numbers swell to uncomfortable levels during Mardi Gras celebrations.

Side street in the New Orleans French Quarter with few people and a horse carriage

New Orleans is unique among US cities and, personally, is one of my favorite cities in the world. The Big Easy is also home to some of the best food in the world. And loads of tourists. But is the French Quarter really so special that it is worth hanging out with loads of out-of-towners and paying tourist prices? Yes and no.

For a first-time visitor to New Orleans, the French Quarter is a must. But it should be noted that the area is not the go-to for locals. Rather, it’s become a novelty with a lot of faux-authenticity. And much of the famous food is grossly overpriced and toned down in flavor. The best of New Orleans eating is generally found elsewhere.

Magazine Street intersection in Uptown New Orleans on a sunny day
not the French Quarter

Authentic New Orleans isn’t confined to a single area. The French Quarter is a fun place to spend an afternoon, but finding the best of NOLA takes a little more effort. As for crowds, they are manageable most of the year. Daytime is always a better choice. Mardi Gras in the French Quarter is an unforgettable sight, but the crowds are unbearable, not to mention dangerously intoxicated and bordering on out-of-control. Visit New Orleans and see the French Quarter, but explore the rest of the city, too.

Bran Castle (Dracula’s Castle) – Transylvania, Romania

Bran Castle is the most famous landmark in Romania. The castle is synonymous with Transylvania and widely associated with the Dracula myth. This has led to all sorts of marketing associated with Bran Castle that is visible across the country.

As an historic structure, Bran Castle is interesting. Its placement atop an outcrop makes for an imposing, photogenic site. The labyrinthine interior of the fortress is a fascinating look at medieval architecture.

Visit Bran Castle in Romania by the Hangry Backpacker

However, Bran Castle is a tourist trap. For starters, the reality is that the popular tourist destination has no actual connection with Vlad the Impaler, the inspiration of the Dracula myth. So, from an historic standpoint, Bran Castle is portrayed as something that it simply is not.

On top of that, the castle is packed with tourists. Tour groups clog the small rooms and narrow corridors. The popularity of this landmark extends to town, where everything revolves around Dracula. It makes an otherwise cool site a tedious experience.

So, is the famous Dracula Castle worth visiting?

Honestly, no. As a fortress, it is cool, but Romania has a lot of visible history in the form of castles and fortified cities across the country. Transylvania, in particular, has a high concentration of historic sites and landmarks. Your time can be better spent seeing other famous attractions and historic sites without the crowds and less affected by overtourism in general.

Overtourism seen in crowds of tourists at Bran Castle, the most popular tourist attraction in Romania

If you’re curious about the specifics of visiting Dracula’s Castle, or if you still want to have a look for yourself, check out our Bran Castle Guide.

Gothic Quarter – Barcelona, Spain

Barcelona is one of the most popular cities for tourists in the world. Millions and millions of people visit each year, many returning home having fallen in love with the Mediterranean metropolis in Spain. You can count me out of that bunch, but more on that coming soon.

Placa Reial in Barcelona's Gothic Quarter on a day with fewer crowds
a lucky, slow day – the attraction is clear

The epicenter of tourism in Barcelona is the historic Gothic Quarter. This is the oldest part of the city. Here, you will find the photogenic streets and now-highly-sought-after instaworthy scenes.

I get it. Architecturally, this is the most attractive area in the city to most visitors. It is pretty. At times.

The Gothic Quarter is extremely busy. At times, it is frustrating to walk and maneuver through the thick crowds. Personally, what I find worse is the tacky souvenir shops. These are the kind of shops I would expect to find in Vegas or New Orleans. The chaos and crowds spill out into the surrounding area as well.

crowds of people walking and taking photos in Barcelona
the edge of the Gothic Quarter… on a slow day

What’s more surprising is that I was told when I visited that “This isn’t even that busy. Wait until peak season.” I shudder at the thought, and it seems the citizens of Barcelona are in agreement.

Barcelona’s Gothic Quarter is pretty. However, aside from siesta time, it tends to be a bit of a madhouse. There are other areas of Barcelona that I find more appealing, and Spain as a whole has so much more to offer.

The Acropolis – Athens, Greece

Seeing the Parthenon, set high atop the Acropolis of Athens – it’s one of those cool moments in life, when a famous photo from books is finally right before your own eyes. Reality is a little different.

Crowd of people in line at the Acropolis in Athens, waiting to go up the site
the line, AFTER you’ve entered the site

That’s where my fascination ends. Up close, the Acropolis is one of the least enjoyable tourist attractions I’ve been to. The crowds are absolutely maddening. Hordes of people, crowds around every corner, bottleneck after bottleneck, all of us shuffling along to reach the next photo op that will surely be inundated with people. Oh, and that’s after you wait multiple lines behind hundreds of other people to enter.

crowd of tourists in a bottleneck at Athens most popular tourist site, the Acropolis

For other reasons, which I will detail soon, a visit to the Acropolis isn’t among my favorite things to do, but the thick crowds really take away from an otherwise cool piece of history.

Of course, I am part of that crowd of tourists, and I don’t have a realistic or fair solution. Nonetheless, I enjoyed seeing the Acropolis very much… from afar. There are great places to take in the scene without the chaos (again, that info is coming soon).

crowds of tourists standing in front of the Parthenon in Athens taking photos
better views are MUCH farther away than this…

I have one small caveat to tourists ruining a visit to the Acropolis of Athens. On my first visit, several years ago, there were less than a hundred people at the entire site. It was within an hour of closing and during low season. This is the likely explanation, but it is something to consider if you just want to see it up close without the madness.

Acropolis of Athens without tourists and crowds in 2014
in 2014, a totally different scene

Of course, from what locals shared during my most recent visit, the number of tourists arriving in Athens is earlier in the year, higher than ever and showing no signs of slowing down. At this point, there may not even be a low season.

The Pyramids – Giza, Egypt

The Pyramids of Giza are one of the most iconic and recognizable historic sights in the world. Egypt is synonymous with the Pyramids in the minds of many. Naturally, the colossal physical and historical stature of the only remaining Wonder of the Ancient World draws millions of visitors each year.

line of people to enter the Pyramids of Giza archaeological site

One might think, “that place is going to be crawling with tourists.” That thought would not be wrong. It is true. The complex of the Pyramids, the Sphinx and other ruins in the area are absolutely as popular and busy as you might imagine.

The cool thing about visiting the Pyramids is that the site is huge. Combine the large scale of the complex with the sheer enormity of the structures themselves, and you actually have quite a bit of room to maneuver. Aside from the area near the main entrance to the site, the base of the Great Pyramid and the Sphinx, the crowds in Giza don’t take away from the visit. There is some variability in the crowds, depending on the season and time of day, but you can absolutely find space for yourself. It’s pretty easy to get photos that aren’t spoiled by the crowds.

Pyramids of Giza in Egypt from a viewpoint far away

With such a large site to roam and an incredibly large centerpiece, crowds of tourists do not take away from the excitement you feel when visiting the Pyramids of Giza.

So, Popular Tourist Sites…

After evaluating several of the world’s most famous tourist attractions, what is the verdict? Are they worth it?

In short, yes. But it’s still not that simple. Historical significance or a stunning view can make up for large crowds. Other attractions lose their appeal after the tourist invasion turns occupation. It is a subjective, case-by-case matter.

Tourists do ruin places, sometimes literally. I consider myself a traveler and not a “tourist.” But I know that no matter how I attempt to classify myself, at the end of the day, I am a tourist, too. We ruin things, and we know it. But we still go. And we will continue to go.

The Hangry Backpacker atop Edinburgh's most famous tourist attraction, Arthur's Seat

Travel prepared. Crowds of tourists often take away from the beauty and wonder of the world’s famous and popular attractions, so it is best to have additional plans to visit lesser-known places as well. But never let crowds of tourists stop you from exploring the world.

Even if the charm is gone, the view is obscured or the prices are inflated, seeing for yourself is the ultimate goal.  Go and get lost. Check out the popular tourist sites along the way. Millions of tourists see these places each year and love every minute of it. They are, after all, popular for a reason.

Filed Under: Get Lost

Kep: Sleepy, Seaside Cambodia

January 12, 2019 By Hangry Backpacker Leave a Comment

Kep is a largely forgotten Cambodian town that does not receive a lot of attention. When it comes to traveling Cambodia, Kep is not a famous destination, so how do travelers end up in Kep? And what should you expect before finding yourself in this corner of Cambodia?

kep cambodia abandoned building

After a month backpacking in Vietnam, zig-zagging my way from Hanoi to Ho Chi Minh City, Cambodia was the next destination. For years, visiting the Temples of Angkor was high on my travel bucket list. But first, I had to see other parts of the country.

Looking for a place to kill a few days before heading to Phnom Penh for an airport pickup, Kep continued to come up in conversation about Cambodia.

Kep is a small village on the coast of Cambodia. It is known mostly for its crab market and as a place to escape people.

Onward, to Kep!

Travel in Cambodia is difficult. Sometimes you have to go backwards to go forward in a different direction. Recognizing the upcoming transportation frustration – and that I would be traveling to Phnom Penh a few times over the next month – and with recommendations from several other travelers, backpackers and expats to go to Kep, I relented.

Seaside Kep, Cambodia was described to me as a cool, hippie-like fishing village on the sea. The words “sleepy” and “forgotten” came up more than once. Some claims even say Kep is experiencing a “resurgence.”

With these positive endorsements, there was no further need of convincing. The decision was to spend a few days in sleepy, seaside Kep. I took a van from the post office in Phnom Penh – odd yes, but it’s a meeting point for some reason. It was a slow trip. Although only about 100 miles apart, it took over five hours. At least it was cheap (about $7 USD).

As it happens, Kep is very much fitting of the descriptions I was given. And while many travelers long for a sleepy escape, to explore the forgotten or experience the early days of resurgence, sometimes these descriptors are not the idealistic wonderland of our minds.

The Good Kep

The good parts of Kep are undeniable. The village is in the perfect location for relaxing or a mental reset. Whether it’s watching the sunset atop the sea wall, enjoying a walk around the quiet seaside town or forgetting about time in the jungle, Kep is a great place in Cambodia to slow down and disappear.

kep cambodia sea wall crab market

If relaxing in a hammock is your thing – near the sea or in a jungle tree – Kep has the time and place for you to chill. And it is a satisfactory break from Southeast Asia’s big cities.

The crab market is the most popular tourist draw in Kep. Fisherman and crabbers bring their catch right up to the market where prices are negotiated. For anyone in search of fresh seafood, there is no doubt that Kep is a catch.

kep cambodia crab market

In addition to crabs, the fresh catch includes fish, prawns, squid and more. There are several restaurants next to the crab market along the sea. The freshness is unquestionable and the smells are intoxicating. The food is pretty damn good, but the prices are not. You’re better off ordering and eating directly at the market. Just make sure to get something freshly-cooked so you don’t get sick.

kep cambodia seafood

When it comes to food in Cambodia, Kep is home to some of the best. The freshness is obvious and the cooks are capable. Considering tourists and the seaside location, prices are better at restaurants in town away from the crab market.

The Bad Kep

Kep is sleepy. The petrol and mechanic station on the side of the road (below) is an accurate indicator of how the village is forgotten.

kep cambodia petrol station

Still, you’re reading that this village is so sleepy and calm that life crawls at a pleasant pace. That seems like a good thing, right? In some ways, yes, but, unfortunately, as a traveler, you will be severely limited on what you can do to fill your days in Kep.

Note: I am the kind of traveler who enjoys city chaos as much as I enjoy the silence and tranquility of being in the middle of nowhere.

For backpackers in Cambodia, Kep has severe limitations. The beach is nothing special, especially in comparison to some of Cambodia’s Utopian islands. The surrounding nature is nice, but not much different than elsewhere in Coastal Cambodia.

kep cambodia beachfront

Kep lacks other important establishments for backpackers and independent travelers found in Cambodia. There is not much in the way of a mini-mart, which is essential for backpackers in Southeast Asia. There is also nothing close to an affordable bar. What kind of place is noted as a sleepy, seaside town and lacks an equally sleepy (and affordable) seaside bar? The bars next to the crab market (restaurants, too) are grossly overpriced, catering to the visitors in nearby resorts.

There’s no need for anything crazy, but this is a big miss in forgotten Kep. The backpacker market is much stronger and wealthier than most municipalities realize. If Kep was a little more backpacker-friendly, the positive economic impact on the town would be significant.

Travelers must turn to the town market and restaurants for their needs. Unfortunately, the town market in Kep closes in the early evening. Most restaurants are also not open late, and prices are inflated. The result is that many backpackers will spend a disproportionate amount of time at hostels and guesthouses. This is a great chance to meet travelers, but quickly becomes a more expensive stay.

The Real Kep

The real Kep is a town that is forgotten but quietly resurging. This is thanks, in large part, to the burgeoning tourist industry. There are traces of what was once an exclusive, wealthy corner of Cambodia. That is not the case today.

The shining beacon of today’s Kep are a few upscale resorts. These resorts are modern, new and a nice place to relax for comfort-minded travelers. To say these are not backpacker haunts is an understatement. Prices are simply obnoxious.

Sadly, these resorts are far away from the main village center, and, like most shiny enterprises in Cambodia, are likely owned by foreigners. Thus, the economic impact on the local area is limited.

The real Kep, Cambodia is not resurging. It is struggling. The few restaurants around have great food, but the lack of infrastructure is prohibitive. And the tendency of resort-dwellers is to not stray very far, which leaves fewer spoils for the local populace.

Overall, while forgotten Kep is a town that is lacking for backpackers, travelers with higher budgets can enjoy the “resurgence” of the area (and the food) in comfort.

Also, watch out for the monkeys (technically, they’re macaques). These vicious little bastards will turn on you in an instant.

What’s the Big Deal about Kep?

Why are travelers drawn to a place with limited everything? I have no idea.

While it is entirely possible that I missed the delight in Kep, it is hard to see how. In such a tiny place, it is fairly easy to cover a lot in a few days. Perhaps for someone specifically seeking a jungle escape, or a person looking to reset themselves and get in touch with some astrological nonsense (there really are a few of these “retreats” in Kep), this may be the place.

From an honest perspective, there is very little reason to stay in Kep for most backpackers. Perhaps in the future, when the resurgence is finally underway and Chinese businesses drive all other tourists from the rest of Cambodia, Kep will become a destination in its own right. In the meantime, a day trip from Kampot is perfectly adequate.

kep cambodia crab market seaside

Kep does have potential. It is very likely that this part of Cambodia will continue to grow and, soon enough, will be host to hordes of backpackers.

In some ways, selfishly, I’ll admit, I hope this does not happen. Kep may not be a prime backpacker destination, but it is perfect the way it is right now: sleepy and forgotten.

Filed Under: Get Lost

Things to Do in Kuala Lumpur

December 15, 2018 By Hangry Backpacker 1 Comment

Travel to Malaysia and its capital city, Kuala Lumpur (KL), has become a popular destination for backpackers and travelers of all kinds in recent years. Thoughts of Malaysia and KL invoke ideas of an exotic place, but these ideas could not be further from reality.

petronas towers kuala lumpur malaysia

Kuala Lumpur is more than the capital and largest city of Malaysia. Kuala Lumpur is a global, modern city whose economic prominence makes it an interesting and attractive destination for business travelers. But there are reasons beyond business to visit KL. What exactly should travelers do in Kuala Lumpur?

Here are several of my personal favorite things to do when visiting Kuala Lumpur:

Menara Kuala Lumpur (KL Tower)

The KL Tower stands high above the city, highlighting the skyline along with the Petronas Towers. The world’s 7th tallest tower, the KL Tower is the perfect place for a panorama view of Malaysia’s capital.

The observation deck is a wraparound balcony that offers striking views of Kuala Lumpur. Miles and miles of city with skyscrapers and mountains in the distance fill the scene. The KL Tower is one of the  best structures in the world for a city view.

kl tower st john cathedral kuala lumppur malaysia

The Petronas Towers, a national symbol of Malaysia, are best seen from the KL Tower. Once the world’s tallest buildings, the Petronas Towers loom over Kuala Lumpur, yet are best viewed from the observation deck of the KL Tower.

The observation deck has two “skydecks,” glass boxes that jut out over the ground. A popular feature among the world’s tallest structures, the eastern skydeck of the KL Tower is the most popular. The line can be long for a couple of minutes in the glass cube, but the scene behind lends a fantastic photo. If heights instill fear, I suggest it best to avoid this photo. In fact, acrophobics may want to avoid the KL Tower altogether.

kl tower skydeck kuala lumpur malaysia

For more fearless travelers, the KL Tower is a top attraction in Kuala Lumpur. The only drawback is the admission price. The listed prices are as high as 66 Malaysian ringgits (MYR), about $15 USD. However, for some reason, I was charged 105 MYR, about $25 USD, at the ticket office on site. To avoid price gouging, purchase your tickets online before visiting the KL Tower.

KL Forest Eco Park

Near the base of the KL Tower lies one of Kuala Lumpur’s treats. The KL Forest Eco Park is a glimpse into what the area that is now a massive metropolis may have looked like hundreds of years ago. The information center provides analysis of the area’s flora and fauna. It is a perfect place for kids and those of us with a deep-rooted curiosity of natural life.

In a city filled with traffic, people and skyscrapers at every turn, the KL Forest Eco Park serves as more than a much needed break from the surrounding madness. The park is a reminder of what used to be. Much of Malaysia is still very rugged and rural, with mountains and rainforests aplenty. However, with economic prosperity comes physical growth and urban sprawl.

kl forest eco park canopy walkway malaysia

Areas once home to rainforests and exotic wildlife (some now extinct) are now jungles of concrete. Not that I would ever suggest, not even for a moment, that a people should hold themselves back and stifle economic growth, healthcare advances and general improvements in quality of life. But it is important to understand the impact of growth and booming industry to see the repercussions on God’s green Earth.

The KL Forest Eco Park is helpful in understanding the need to protect and preserve areas responsibly, all while maintaining growth and prosperity. For travelers, the park is an escape. Walking through the park is surreal on a canopy walkway leading through the treetops. Birds are chirping and insects creeping through the more-than-100-year-old preserve.

Enjoy a few hours’ escape from the hustle of megalopolis life, and take a trip into the past walking through this old forest.

The Epicenter of Southeast Asian Malls?

Malaysians love their malls. Seriously, there is no shortage of shopping malls in the country. Naturally, as the capital and largest city, Kuala Lumpur is the epicenter of shopping in the country.

Personally, I loathe this kind of shopping. There are few ideas in my mind so miserable as a day spent perusing racks of insultingly expensive clothes and the latest trends. And yet, I am simultaneously fascinated by malls. The planning, marketing and structures invoke a curiosity and fascination. The bright lights, pleasant music and perfect temperatures have an intoxicating effect on even the most stubborn shopper – me.

For shopping addicts, label-lovers or the fashion-obsessed, Kuala Lumpur is a city you must visit. There are regular malls, luxurious malls featuring bejeweled stilettos in cases, shopping malls with roller coasters and entire malls dedicated to electronics. Whatever the imagination can conjure up and throw into a multi-story megamall can be found in Kuala Lumpur.

Berjaya Times Square Mall Rollercoaster KL Malaysia

An important tip for travelers on a retail-therapy mission: Malaysian malls are not any cheaper than at home, so don’t expect much in the way of incredible deals. Don’t expect knock off goods for a quarter of the price. Everything is authentic in quality and price.

pavilion mall kuala lumpur malaysia

The malls of Kuala Lumpur are not made solely for travelers and tourists. Shopping malls have become a huge part of Malaysian culture, and this is why you should visit a couple when you travel to Kuala Lumpur – as strange as it sounds, malls are a big part of the local culture.

Another bonus of having so many malls in KL is to escape the weather. Malaysia is very hot and rainy. One minute it is sunny and hot. Moments later, a torrential downpour is soaking every square inch of you, from head to toe. A few minutes later and the sun is back out, somehow even hotter than before. A giant, climate-controlled oasis – yeah, the malls – can be the perfect escape from the elements outside.

Merdeka Square – Historic Center of Kuala Lumpur

Travel to Kuala Lumpur is not complete without a visit to the historic City Center. Merdeka Square is the most important historical location in KL.

In a country with an abundance of stunning architecture, the Sultan Abdul Samad Buidling is perhaps the most beautiful structure in the country. Formerly housing the government offices of Colonial Malaya, other government departments call it home today.

sultan abdul samad building kuala lumpur malaysia

Visiting Merdeka Square is an opportunity to view some of the most beautiful architecture in Kuala Lumpur. Sure, the KL and Petronas Towers are more famous and visible from across the city, but the buildings in this historic square are more impressive. The square is a curious blend of British and Malayan. The former cricket grounds are now a place to relax and pose for pictures, with the surrounding buildings now host to museums and galleries.

merdeka square textile museum kuala lumpur malaysia

Merdeka Square is an important location in the history of Malaysia. Today, the square is one of the most beautiful areas of KL and is a top stop during any travel to Kuala Lumpur.

Street Art

Malaysia is famous for street art. Personally, I’ve never been to a country with more interesting, widespread street art that that in Malaysia. Kuala Lumpur has it’s share of pretty, famous and free art.

Street art in Kuala Lumpur is not fixated on a certain street or specific area. It’s kind of anywhere and everywhere. Chinatown has some interesting works, some of which are 3-D and incorporate tangible objects along in front of the canvas (wall). Otherwise, you just have to wander in the city, and you will eventually come across a colorful street, a repurposed bicycle or an entire building-turned-work-of-art.

Jalan Alor Street Art Kuala Lumpur Malaysia

The most famous place for street art in Kuala Lumpur is on Jalan Alor. In Bukit Bintang (the main, central district in the city), there are several streets in the area that have been completely painted and transformed. Former back alleys now look like scenes from Dr. Seuss books. Others are bright colors and even have clouds hanging. The street art in Kuala Lumpur (Malaysia as a whole, really) is phenomenal. Backpackers who enjoy wandering as I do will be delighted in the surprises around random corners.

KL Chinatown

Kuala Lumpur’s Chinatown is the famous historic center of the local Chinese population. While KL does not have a particular architecture that dominates the city – it’s a peculiar and beautiful blend of many influences – Chinatown has a distinctly Chinese look and feel. This is the area to visit to find Chinese restaurants, shops and markets.

Chintown shopping street Kuala Lumpur

The main street of Chinatown, Petaling Street, is a pedestrian street of strange stuff and cheap junk. I mean, if you need a jacket, sunglasses, a pair of flip flops or an umbrella with children’s cartoons on it, this is the place. Or, if you want to find some of that famous, unusual Southeast Asian food, this is the best bet in the center of Kuala Lumpur.

Otherwise, Chinatown is rather touristic these days. There is supposedly a flea market in the neighborhood, but I was unable to distinguish any of the junk as new junk or slightly more interesting old junk.

The only reason to visit Chinatown in Kuala Lumpur is to eat. The food here is good. And cheap. There are some cool side streets in the area that are interesting, but Petaling Street is not.

Ain Arabia

Ain Arabia (Little Arabia to me) is one of my favorite places in Kuala Lumpur. Historically, this neighborhood wasn’t Arabian by any stretch, but several years ago that began to change. Today, the few blocks around Ain Arabia, noted by a large gate signifying the entrance to the neighborhood, are an interesting look into the diversity of KL.

Essentially Ain Arabia is a busy street in Bukit Bintang. The street has a large Middle Eastern influence, from shops to food, with the local Middle Eastern population inhabiting much of the nearby buildings. The name of the nearby park translates to Arabian Park and acts as a sort of neighborhood meeting point for the local Middle Eastern population.

shawarma Ain Arabia KL Malaysia

My favorite part about Little Arabia is the cheap food. In fact, there are two shawarma shops to note – Halab Gate and Al-Siddiq. Each has super affordable food (perfect for backpackers) that is incredible. I’ve eaten shawarma and doner in dozens of countries around the world, and these are two of the absolute best I’ve ever enjoyed.

Eating in Kuala Lumpur

Kuala Lumpur is a diverse city, home to large numbers of Malayans, Chinese, Indians and others. The religious component is equally diverse. While Malaysia is a majority-Muslim country, KL has a broader representation of religions. There are also sizable populations of Buddhists, Hindus and Christians.

What do demographics have to do with eating? Everything.

The diversity in Kuala Lumpur is a golden buffet for hungry travelers. The variety of food in Kuala Lumpur is extraordinary. Chinese, Halal and Indian fare come together to create a city with phenomenal food.

Mamak (Indian Muslim) food is perhaps the best. There are endless options for Mamak food in KL. Walking down the street, you will see what look like buffets with crowds and colorful food. Choose one of these restaurants and you are sure to enjoy fantastic food.

mamak food kuala lumpur malaysia

In a hot and humid climate – in all of Southeast Asia – food safety should be a consideration. For health concerns, choose a restaurant in KL that is busy to ensure freshness. Kuala Lumpur is indeed a modern city, but standards of freshness and cleanliness are still lacking on a street level. There is no cause for concern if you choose wisely.

For traditional food, try nasi lemak, the national dish of Malaysia. Nasi lemak is a rice dish that comes in countless varieties, my favorite being that served with fried chicken, egg and sauces that may forever remain foreign to me, both in name and substance.

nasi lemak malaysian food kuala lumpur

Local food in Kuala Lumpur is not expensive. In spite of pricey accommodation, high-end shopping and international foods, local restaurants are affordable for budget travelers. When in doubt, eat local.

The main drawback to dining in Kuala Lumpur is the beer. Southeast Asia is known for cheap beer, but this is not the case in Malaysia. Low quality, mass-production brews are more expensive than in the West. Beer is available, but you will pay a steep price.


Travelers often skip Kuala Lumpur in favor of other Southeast Asian destinations. However, it is a cheaper alternative to Singapore and a cleaner choice than Bangkok.

These tips will help guide you through Kuala Lumpur and enhance your travel wandering. The modernness of the city is surprising for many travelers. The cosmopolitan structure leads to world class eating, and the city is a perfect landing spot to explore Malaysia and beyond.

Filed Under: City Guides

Five Tips for Visiting Seoul, South Korea

December 10, 2018 By Hangry Backpacker Leave a Comment

Travel to Seoul is much more than simply visiting the capital of South Korea. Seoul is a megacity – one of the world’s largest – and the center of politics, history, culture and cuisine in the Republic of Korea.

seoul south korea palace

There is more to Seoul than being another huge Asian metropolis. The city, blending local traditions with influences from across the world, is an excellent destination for travelers seeking a destination of fun and food.

Seoul is a modern city with glimpses of Korea’s ancient history, serving delicious food in between. Here are five fun tips for travel to South Korea’s capital: [Read more…] about Five Tips for Visiting Seoul, South Korea

Filed Under: City Guides

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