Get Lost

Bagan, Myanmar is a massive site of ancient ruins. The center of the ancient Empire of Pagan, Bagan is the number one tourist attraction in Myanmar. The scale of ruins and historical importance of Bagan is like no other place on Earth.

Among the highlights of Southeast Asia, the ruins of Bagan rival the more famous ancient city of Angkor. For many reasons, Bagan is more worthy of a visit than its Cambodian counterpart.

The ancient city of Bagan is in Myanmar, which means far fewer tourists to spoil a travelers curiosity. There are no lines to get in, no lines for photos and no crowds of wannabe instafamous fools.

The area is home to more than 2,000 Buddhist structures, with some estimates at over 3,000. It is the largest concentration of Buddhist structures in the world, and the oldest ruins of Bagan date back over a thousand years.

Bagan is the highlight of travel in Myanmar.

Visiting the Ancient City of Bagan

Bagan is the center of ancient Myanmar. With thousands of temples, stupas and pagodas, where do you start?

That’s not an easy question to answer. There are certainly a few temples in Bagan that stand out, and some that are older and more important. However, when there are thousands of structures spread over the area, it’s best to just get started. It would take weeks to see them all, if that is even possible.

There are so many temples, stupas and pagodas in Bagan that many of them casually blend in with surrounding towns and villages. The ancient city of Bagan is truly overwhelming. To make the most of your visit, the best thing for visitors to do is wander.

Ancient Bagan, Myanmar: Forgotten & Empty

It is baffling to witness a scene like that in Bagan and to see it empty. It’s like seeing the world’s most popular tourist sites without the crowds. Some things go together. Times Square, Angkor Wat, the Vatican – these places are automatically associated with crowds, and to see them empty is a weird sight.

Bagan, Myanmar should be crawling with tourists. Instead, it sits empty for much of the year.

For the most part, the lack of tourists in Bagan is a traveler’s dream come true. Too often, crowds ruin places, but Bagan is a ghost town for months on end. Visitors are free to wander, explore and take unencumbered photos at every turn. With the exception of the greener, slightly cooler times of year, life in Bagan is calm and quiet.

The only drawback to the lack of crowds is not knowing where to go. In an enormous, unorganized complex, crowds can lead to areas that may otherwise be missed. The ancient City of Bagan is not well organized. It’s just there, and it’s tough to determine which roads to take.

Despite confusion in this empty, overwhelming historical site, the positives of few people definitely outweigh any benefit of a crowd. At the end of the day, wandering is the best way explore.

No One is Watching

Not only is Bagan largely free of tourists, it is devoid of officials and security. The largest groups of people around the temples are locals, hoping to sell trinkets and art to any tourists that show up.

The lack of security means tourists are free to wander and free to get up close to any of the ruins. After a recent earthquake, climbing on the structures in Bagan is now forbidden. The Bagan Archaeological Zone ticket says, in clear English, “Climbing Temple/Pagoda is prohibited.”

That is more of a recommendation than a firm rule.

For starters, should you decide to climb one of these ancient temples, the structural integrity is probably not sound. Any personal injury, or damage to the structure, is your responsibility. If you decide to start climbing and manage to find trouble, that’s your problem.

That being said, most of the ruins in Bagan are not monitored by anyone. Most are also absent of any human presence, for that matter. Most likely, no one will see you climbing up for a neat view.

Judging when it is okay to climb a set of ruins in Bagan is situational. Many of the temples, although not monitored, have gates and fences where it is clear you are not to pass. Other times, the ruins have no indication that climbing is forbidden or even frowned upon.

Locals often climb up the old buildings and encourage tourists to follow.

Technically, you may not climb the ancient temples of Bagan. However, it’s not out of the question. If the temple, pagoda or other old building looks fragile, stay on the ground! Bagan is not a great place for a bone-crushing fall. Worse than a tourist injury in a remote part of Myanmar is the possibility of damaging an ancient piece of history.

Using practical judgement is best. Be smart and respectful, but have fun, too.

Let Curiosity Lead the Way

Several times I mention that Bagan is enormous and overwhelming. That’s because it really is that impressive. Navigating the area is a challenge, but there are some important things to remember.

The most popular temples in Bagan will be obvious. They are large, stunning and will be the only ones with more than a few people around. Visitors will see these imposing remnants of the Ancient Pagan Empire and know to stop. What about the other 2,000-plus stupas and pagodas?

Let curiosity lead the way.

The main roads, the few paved roads, that wind through Bagan have small dirt roads that lead off into the fields. In the distance, sunburned pagodas are visible peaking above the vegetation. It’s tempting to turn off the road and go exploring.

Do it. Give in to temptation.

Each of these dirt paths, often no more than a couple of feet wide, leads to more ruins. And there are usually more paths leading off of these paths. Take them! Get lost in Bagan!

Getting lost in Bagan is easy. Even on a busy day, all it takes to get away from a crowd is to follow a dirt path or two. Within a few minutes, you’ll be alone. Then, walking around a curve and through chest-high brush, an ancient pagoda comes into view.

Wandering Bagan is like going back in time. As you travel the dirt roads on a crappy little motorbike, it feels like you’re the first one there, discovering a lost civilization forgotten by time.

Even in popular places like Bagan, most tourists never stray far from the main points of interest. Let curiosity take hold and explore.

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Check Out These Posts for More on Travel in Myanmar:

• Yangon Travel Guide
• Mandalay Travel Guide
• The Temples of Mandalay
• Naypyidaw: Ghost Town of Myanmar

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How to get to Bagan, Myanmar

Traveling to Bagan is an adventure in itself. Aside from the highway network that connects Mandalay to Yangon via Naypyidaw, don’t expect a smooth ride in Myanmar. There are brief stretches of hope, but the overall course is a bumpy, dusty affair.

For travelers who like this kind of travel, transportation in Myanmar is really fun. It is also a little frightening. Drivers in Myanmar are fearless and will attempt to pass a slower vehicle at all costs, no matter if the road is filled with craters and lined with people and livestock. Full speed is the optimum speed at all costs.

If the wild roads of Myanmar are not appealing, there is an airport in Bagan which has flights to Yangon and Mandalay. Trains are also an option from Yangon, but are very slow.

Entrance to Bagan Archaeological Zone

The Bagan Archaeological is an enormous area surrounding the ancient city. Buses stop when entering the zone. Here, officials check passports and tickets are purchased.

The entrance fee for foreigners is 25,000 Myanmar kyats (MMK), about $16 USD. Tickets are good for five days.

Purchasing a ticket is a requirement for foreign visitors to the area. If staying beyond five days, many hotels in the area also sell the passes, so you don’t have to worry about getting back to the Bagan Archaeological Zone entrance point.

Food/Drink in Bagan

Eating in Bagan is much like most of Myanmar. Food is good, drinks are cheap and restaurant hours are weird. Hours are more unpredictable in Bagan due to the tourist-dependent local economy. Expect restaurants to close early during the low season.

Most travelers stay in Nyaung-U or New Bagan. Nyaung-U is generally the more local, budget-friendly option, but eating options are limited.

Thi Ri Pyitsaya 4 Street – the signs are in Burmese, and this is what Google Maps calls the road – is the best area for eating and drinking. There are plenty of local restaurants and a small variety of Western and other foreign food as well.

Shwe Moe is the single best place to eat around Bagan. The restaurant serves Southeast Asian food, with a lot of Burmese options along with plenty of Chinese and Thai choices. The food is good and fresh. The restaurant is clean. The beers are cold, big and cheap. Cocktails are fantastic and cheap.

Shwe Moe is popular with locals and tourists. It isn’t the cheapest restaurant, but it is certainly not expensive. There is probably very good food to be eaten at the resorts closer to Old Bagan, but that will be expensive and not especially local.

For the super frugal backpacker, there are two mini-marts near the roundabout in Nyaung-U. The more local (older) one has a wide selection of cheap snacks.

Within the ancient City of Bagan, the far northwest corner by the Irrawaddy River has several restaurants. They are all cheap, and the food is pretty good. Be advised, food safety standards are a little lax.

Blackouts & Heat

As previously mentioned in a guide to Mandalay, Myanmar is hot. All the time.

In that post, I mentioned that Mandalay is hotter than the south of Myanmar. Well, somehow, Bagan is even hotter than Mandalay.

Anyone that wishes to travel to see the ancient city of Bagan needs to be aware of the heat and prepare accordingly. Wear a hat. Take breaks in the shade. Consider using an umbrella. Drink water. Drink plenty of water. After that, drink more water.

Late summer rains cool the area and transform the dusty plains to fields of green. The trade off for a slight reprieve from the heat is rain, which will mean a lot of mud in Bagan. It will be cooler, but you can bet that it will still be hot.

High temperatures combined with poor electrical infrastructure lead to a lot of blackouts. Power blackouts are common in Myanmar, and even more so in rural areas like Bagan. It may be wise to choose a hotel/guesthouse that has a backup generator.

Transportation

Getting around Bagan is pretty easy. With no regulation, and no one around to tell you where to go (or not go), you can travel any direction you want.

The important thing to remember is walking is not an option. Bagan is too big to take on by foot, especially in the aforementioned heat. I personally attempted to see Bagan on foot. It did not work. Being a native Louisianian, hot is fine with me. I can handle it. I’m a sweaty mess, but I feel fine. Bagan is something else entirely.

Scooters and motorbikes are cheap options to rent for the day to get around. Most tourists use the e-bike, an electric scooter, to get around. This is a great option to see the ancient city of Bagan. Be aware that these scooters are not made for off-roading, which will need to happen. As long as you aren’t stupid, it’s a fun challenge.

Bicycles are a great, healthy option for getting around Bagan in the (slightly) cooler months of the year.

Hot Air Balloons

In recent years, hot air balloons rides have taken off (no pun intended) as a popular way to see Bagan. The view from above is striking, with thousands of pagodas in sight and the Burmese landscape beyond.

Unfortunately, I have bad news. The first bad news is the cost of hot air balloon rides in Bagan. Expect to pay the equivalent of about $300 USD per person for a ride. Even then, the gondola may be a little crowded. Smaller groups are even more expensive.

I was very excited about a hot air balloon ride over Bagan. Then I saw the price. After considering splurging for the bucket list experience, I got more bad news. I soon learned that hot air balloons in Bagan only fly for half of the year. Dates vary, but hot air balloons usually fly from October to April.

Before you travel to Bagan, consider the time of year if a hot air balloon ride is on your wish list.

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Ancient Bagan: The Highlight of Travel in Myanmar

The ancient city of Bagan has been around for more than a thousand years. It is a testament to the power and prominence of the Pagan Empire, but today it is much more important than that.

Bagan is filled with thousands of temples, pagodas and other ancient ruins. The historical significance of the area is immeasurable. To the people of Myanmar, Bagan is a symbol of pride and heritage. To the greater Buddhist world, it is an important religious site.

For tourists, Bagan is the highlight of travel in Myanmar and one of the coolest places in Southeast Asia, an unspoiled oasis among tourist attractions of the world.

The accessibility of Myanmar is improving as the government slowly makes strides to improve individual freedoms As popularity increases, Bagan will soon be overbuilt and overrun with tourists. Until then, now is the time to explore the ancient city of Bagan for yourself. It is one of the most impressive, interesting and coolest places in the world. Wander, get lost and let curiosity take hold.

The temples Mandalay are one of the biggest tourist draws in all of Myanmar. As the cultural and religious center of Myanmar, Mandalay has several spectacular temples that are a popular draw for local Buddhists, as well as attracting the attention of thousands of international tourists.

The temples of Mandalay are the highlight of any visit to Upper Burma’s main city. Here are some of the best: [Read more…] about The Temples of Mandalay, Myanmar

Battambang is a sleepy city in western Cambodia. Most tourists in Cambodia head straight for Siem Reap and Angkor Wat, with far less opting to stop in Battambang.

Battambang is the third largest city in Cambodia, with nearly 200,000 residents. The city certainly feels like a much smaller town, lacking the traffic and noise found in nearby Siem Reap or coastal Sihanoukville.

Travelers that choose to stop in Battambang are rewarded with a less-touristy experience than in other parts of Cambodia, especially the likes of Siem Reap. The city has plenty to do for a few days’ visit. Here are some highlights and tips to fill your time for 48 hours in Battambang:

Prasat Phnom Banan Winery

Cambodia’s first and only winery is a few minutes outside Battambang. The grounds are open to the public and admission is free. The vineyards produce red wine, grape juice and Cambodian brandy.

Although admission is free, if you’re checking it out, go ahead and at least try a glass to support their efforts. The wine is the absolute best wine produced in Cambodia. As the only winery in the country, it’s fair to say it’s also the worst.

Truthfully, the wine is not very good. It is incredibly sweet, too sweet. The brandy is interesting, but the grape juice is phenomenal.

Excluding rice wine, which is plentiful in Southeast Asia, local wines are few and far in between. Winemaking in Southeast Asia is so uncommon that it is really a novelty. But the Banan Winery outside Battambang is growing more popular, and is a unique activity that gives travelers a different look at how Cambodia is developing.

Phnom Banan

Phnom Banan is an ancient Khmer site that dates back nearly 1000 years. Sitting atop a hill (“phnom” means “hill” in Khmer) in the jungle, the ancient temple is an interesting warm up before you visit the world famous Temples of Angkor.

Phnom Banan is not as well preserved as Angkor, but it is an interesting look into local culture as well as history. The surrounding area is a popular day retreat with locals, and there are few tourists around.

Cost of admission to Phnom Banan is only about $2 USD, but additional payment in sweat is the due on the walk to the top – I lost count somewhere around 300 steps. At the top, there is a smattering of crumbling and leaning ruins, a few curious onlookers and Buddhist monks paying respects.

Wat Ek is another ancient Khmer site in the Battambang area that is also fairly empty.

Again, visit Phnom Banan on your day exploring the area outside Battambang, and do so before going to Angkor. Otherwise, you’ll be sorely underwhelmed. It is a cool site of ruins set atop a jungle hill, and is absolutely worth a short visit.

Food in Battambang, Cambodia

In a sense, food in Battambang stands out from elsewhere in Cambodia. Local Cambodian favorites are aplenty, but there is also a considerable amount of high quality foreign and fusion food.

Battambang has maintained the French colonial influence more than other areas of Cambodia, similarly to expat-friendly Kampot, evident in the several French restaurants in town. In addition to French food, the historical center of town has several cheap local restaurants, western food and several bars.

There is also a movement in Battambang to support local orphans that have, essentially, been kidnapped and forced into labor. Several restaurants in Battambang aim to help the orphans by providing English lessons and job training, with most or all profits going toward providing for orphans. Make sure to verify the claims and do some background research on the restaurant beforehand.

My recommendations for good places to eat in Battambang:

Jaan Bai – expensive, but great food and supports a good cause

The River – cheap local food, located (you guessed it) riverside

The Lonely Tree Cafe – delicious American Asian fusion with mediocre prices; sit on the balcony!

Local Cambodian – I don’t read Khmer, but this cheap place serving Cambodian food is located on the corner of Street 106 and Street 115

Madison Pub – great bar for people watching on a busy street, cheap drinks

Creperie Battambang – perfect spot for a cheap, sweet treat

Cafe Eden – another place supporting Khmer people, in a trendy setting with good food

Choco L’Art Cafe – the only artsy hipster vibe in Battambang, and maybe all of Cambodia, in this comfortable little spot with good cocktails and desserts

Phnom Sampov

Another exhausting hike is in order to reach this temple complex. The winding route up and around takes about 30 minutes. Motorbikes and trucks can also speed visitors to the summit for a small charge.

At the top of Phnom Sampov, there are a few temples and a lot of monkeys. Hold on to your stuff. These monkeys are cute until they snatch your camera or sunglasses. The easiest way to stave off the monkeys is with a banana.

There are several small temples and Buddha statues around, as well as one shrine with a large reclining Buddha. Allot plenty of time for visiting Phnom Sampov. The hilltop has temples to explore, natural springs, good views and important history.

There are hundreds of stairs that are a quicker, more grueling route to the top of Phnom Sampov. This route also passes closer to the Killing Caves, a site of Khmer Rouge executions, where people were pushed off the cliff to their deaths. It is a humbling site and yet another reminder of the horrors of the Khmer Rouge.

Bat Cave

After a few hours spent checking out Phnom Sampov, head back down to the bottom. There will be hundreds of chairs set up, with vendors selling food and drinks. The object of the gathering is is the nightly exodus of bats from one of the caves in the hillside. Millions of bats fly out for a feeding every night before sunset.

The Bat Cave near Battambang is one of the coolest natural scenes in Cambodia. For what seems like an hour, a constant fleet of bats flies out for their daily feeding. The bats are very small and act as a natural pesticide, dropping a lot of guano and eating a lot of insects in the area.

Claim a good seat at least an hour before sunset. After a long day exploring ruins and hiking, the wait is the perfect time to rest and throw back a few beers. Prices are inflated at this tourist attraction, but beers and soft drinks will cost no more than $1 USD each.

Somehow, despite seeing very few tourists anywhere in or around Battambang, this is a hotspot for visitors in Cambodia. Hundreds of tourists appear out of nowhere to witness the nightly bat show. Take a seat early.

Battambang Bamboo Train

The Bamboo Train is a popular tourist attraction just outside of Battambang. The trains run on old rail tracks using makeshift vehicles fit to the track. These rail vehicles are lightweight and were a way for locals to utilize the train tracks for their own purposes, then easily pick up the carts when a normal train was approaching.

After the rail industry disappeared in these parts, the track continued to be used by locals to to transport goods. They soon became a tourist attraction.

Today, the Battambang Bamboo Train is one of the biggest wastes of time for a tourist in Cambodia.

A few years ago, the government decided to renovate the area, turn it into an official tourist attraction and really squeeze the money out of it. The result is a completely manufactured experience. Instead of old tracks and makeshift carts with bamboo platforms, the new area has shiny tracks on fresh cement and sturdy carts with cushions, complete with a big visitor center.

Having fun on a rickety, old rail cart as a weird, unique tourist activity is no more. Presently, the Bamboo Train in Battambang is one of the most overhyped, inauthentic tourist traps in Cambodia.

Do not waste your time or money.

Transportation in Battambang

Battambang can be reached from Phnom Penh, Siem Reap or Bangkok.

If you’re coming from Sihanoukville, the only practical option is to backtrack to Phnom Penh, and take another bus the next day to Battambang. Long night buses that travel the full distance are available, but operation has been careless in recent years, and this is not recommended. Transportation in Cambodia is tedious, and there is no way to avoid it.

Various reports online claim that Battambang has a recently restored passenger train station. However, having seen this rail station with my own eyes, I can confirm this is not the case. The station appears as if someone was considering renovations and quit a day later. It is dilapidated and in disrepair, but it is perfect for photographers in search of abandoned buildings.

There is a boat that travels along the Sangkae River each day to and from Siem Reap. However, in the dry season of Cambodia, forget about any possibility of boat travel from Battambang. The river becomes more of a ditch, barely fit for a canoe.

If you’re fortunate enough to be in Battambang during the rainy season, take the boat. It takes a little longer, but is surely a more unique travel experience.

Arrange transportation to all of the sights outside of Battambang through your hotel or hostel. It is likely cheaper than hiring a tuk tuk driver on the street. A personal driver for an entire day will cost no more than $20 USD.

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Battambang, Cambodia

Battambang is a cool city that is too often overlooked in travel to Cambodia. Most tourists immediately flock to Siem Reap or spend a couple of days in Phnom Penh. For two or three days, there is plenty to do and explore in this city and the area around. After leaving Cambodia, Battambang is one of the places I wish to return most.

There is a lot more to Cambodia than Angkor Wat, and Battambang is an interesting city well worth a visit for few days. Good food, pretty French colonial architecture, ancient history and nature in action are merely the starting points.

Travel in Southeast Asia is changing. The region is now one of the most popular travel destinations in the world. The secret of getting off the beaten path by traveling to the remote corners of Southeast Asia is out.

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