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Backpacking Romania: When, Where, Why, Travel Budget

July 23, 2022 By Hangry Backpacker 2 Comments

Backpacking is a great way to travel and explore Romania for a first-time visitor. In Southeastern Europe, Romania has a fascinating history and a unique culture that goes far beyond fictional 19th-century tales of horror.

travel backpacking in Romania

The Real Romania is a beautiful country where Eastern Europe meets Southern, with one hand holding onto tradition and the other reaching toward the future.

Backpacking in Romania is an excellent way to experience this country. The landscapes, the contrasts of old and new, excellent food, affordability and even the challenges of travel are merely an introduction to why Romania is an excellent backpacking destination.

Why Romania?

From Ancient Greece and Rome to the Ottoman Empire, an independent kingdom to the shroud of Communism and, ultimately, democratic revolution – and that’s the brief version – the history of modern-day Romania is long and complex.

But what specifically makes Romania such a great place to travel? Why is it an ideal destination for backpackers?

History & Geography

Each of the aforementioned historical eras left an impression on Romania, and the country is a fascinating study of interweaving cultures and civilizations.

Romania is home to beautiful castles, ancient fortresses, stunning churches and well-preserved medieval cities. The study of local history is further evident in more recent history that often sits adjacent to the old.

Romanian architecture orthodox church communist blocks

Recent history in Romania is not as pretty. Seriously, Communist architecture is generally on the unsightly side. I find it totally fascinating, but it does tend to fall into the eyesore category.

The days of Communism left a stain, yes, but this is an important part of understanding the country and the people today.

The geography is another great reason to go backpacking in Romania. It varies nicely from plains to mountains to seaside. Backpackers traveling in Romania can ski in the Winter, sit on a Black Sea beach in the Summer and hike the Danube River Delta or Carpathian Mountains most of the year.

That’s without even considering the history and picturesque settings of many Romanian cities, towns and villages.

Romanian Food

Romanian food is a reflection of its history. It is a blend of cuisine from the Balkans, Turks, Slavs and Southern Europe. This comes together to make a cuisine that is uniquely Romanian.

plate of mici, a Romanian food of sausages with mustard

Most importantly, of course, my fellow hungry travelers can rest easy knowing that the food is good. It’s cheap (very cheap by Western European standards), fresh and locally-sourced. More info on the food in the Hangry Backpackers Guide to Eating in Romania!

Romania is Cheap to Travel

In comparison to Europe and the United States, Romania is definitely a budget travel destination.

Food is fairly cheap. Hotels are not expensive. Paid attractions are usually well worth the low price of admission. Transportation is extremely affordable. We dig further into the travel costs of backpacking and travel in Romania below.

Overall, your money goes further in Romania. There are few ways that can “break the bank” for most Western tourists.

Fewer Tourists

Fewer tourists choose to visit Romania than other places in Europe.

Prior to the 2020 travel shutdown, Romania was already one of the lesser-visited places in Europe. With travel returning, foreign tourist arrivals remain lower than other countries on the continent.

You won’t have to deal with crowds of other tourists who clog the sites and streets of more conventional travel destinations in Europe.

Peles Castle Romania top travel attraction
no crowds at Peles Castle, a top attraction in Romania

Why not travel somewhere outside the norm? Feel like you’re in a different country. Experience another country rather than go on a holiday with everyone else. Romania is a fascinating place, and you won’t have to compete with hordes of tourists.

How Long Should You Travel in Romania?

How much time you spend in Romania depends on your interests. This doesn’t vary much from any travel destination in the world.

Do you want to explore the “whole” country? A sample? Perhaps a brief, busy trip?

If you want to lounge at the beach all day, that’s totally fine. Maybe Greece or Croatia is the place to go for you. There are beaches in Romania that are surely a blast, but the Black Sea is not the Greek Isles or Dalmatian Coast.

Romania can be a destination for trips of varying length. Most of the other foreign travelers with whom I spoke in Romania were spending at least a couple of weeks in the country. Transportation is slow – more on transportation below in our in-depth Romania transportation guide – so you cannot see large swaths of the country in a few days.

Sibiu Train Station cheap backpacking transportation in Romania

If you want to experience local culture, feel like you’re getting off the typical tourist trail and go somewhere different, Romania is a good option. Here are three suggestions for length of stay for traveling conventionally or backpacking in Romania:

One Week or Less

Honestly, I don’t recommend traveling to Romania for a week or less on a first-time visit. Excluding microstates, a single week isn’t enough time to explore any country in the world. Romania, particularly Bucharest, attracts a fair amount of short-term visitors to party and gamble. Flights are short and extremely cheap from Europe and the Middle East

Brasov Romania mural on the side of a building

However, for a small sample of the country, you can visit Bucharest and make a couple of stops in Transylvania in a week or less. This is enough time to see the city, sample a few local dishes, visit a castle or two and catch a glimpse of the scenery.

Two Weeks

In two weeks, you can see much more of Romania. This is enough time to thoroughly explore Bucharest, see more of Transylvania and add another area to your travels. For instance, you can add a hike, visit the Black Sea beaches or detour to Romanian Banat (the west).

The two-week time frame puts travelers in a gray area. As mentioned, transportation in Romania can be slow. To thoroughly see your destinations, you cannot do much more than mentioned in the previous paragraph.

If you wish to blaze through, quickly see as much as possible and move on to the next place, you can tick off a lot more boxes. I caution against going too fast, though. Traveling too fast is tiring and eventually causes travel burnout. Slower travel is more rewarding, and you will be able to see more than the crowded popular tourist sites.

A Month or More

If time permits, you can have a great experience backpacking in Romania for a month or more. For a first-time visitor, you can see a lot of the country and even dig deeper in areas you particularly enjoy.

Several of Romania’s most striking attractions are not easy to reach for the average traveler. For instance, the Churches of Moldavia in the far northern part of the country (see the stunning Sucevița Monastery below, photo from Rachel Heller at Rachel’s Ruminations), and small villages of the Carpathian Mountains take longer to reach via train, bus or automobile, IF there is even any public transit option to reach your desired destination.

Sucevita Monastery Romania Churches of Moldavia on sunny day
the striking Sucevița Monastery, photo by Rachel Heller

With limitations of transportation and tourist infrastructure, you need time to visit more remote or less-connected places without running yourself ragged.

The advantage of taking the extra time is what you encounter along the way. In Romania, life can be starkly different outside of tourist bubbles. It’s also significantly cheaper.

By traveling slower and longer, you can see the traditional side of Romania, which is still remarkably visible in the 21st century. And your trip won’t necessarily be more expensive as you spend time in cheaper places.

Traveling longer or backpacking in Romania leads to experiencing a more local side of culture. Once you leave the popular travel trail, it feels like you have the place to yourself.

The Best Time of Year to Visit Romania

The climate in Romania is exceptionally seasonal. Winter is cold, and the Carpathian Mountains are a nice place for snow sports. Summers are warm and particularly hot and humid in Bucharest. Spring ranges from cold to hot, and Autumn is the opposite.

All of Romania can and typically does receive snowfall at some point during Winter. Even along the Black Sea, snowfall is a normal occurrence.

Summer is slightly cooler in the mountains. However, it gets hot across the country, and Bucharest temperatures hit triple digits Farenheit (above 37C). There is also slightly more rain throughout the country during Summer months.

Summer is the busier tourist season with peak time being July/August. Much of this traffic is domestic tourism and is especially notable along the Black Sea and in the Mountains.

Due to the milder-but-not-cold weather, the best time to travel in Romania is Spring or Autumn. Specifically mid-to-late Spring and early-to-mid Autumn.

Springtime flowers in Romania

Springtime brings flowers like I’ve seen in few other places in the world, and Autumn sees the country shift to spectacular shades of Fall. Snow is not an obstacle, and you can typically get by with a light jacket for cool evenings. Fewer foreign and domestic tourists is another good reason to visit during these times.

**Another note for backpacking in Romania is the beginning of Summer marks an interesting scene in hostels. Something I have never seen anywhere else, several hostels in Romania were full of children.

These ranged from elementary school-aged kids to high school kids. I’m not exactly sure if these were school trips or Summer camps, but it was less than ideal for a thirty-something backpacker to be in a hostel that was also hosting 50 teenagers. Some hostels were even completely booked due to these groups.

Backpacking Romania Travel Budget

The affordable nature of backpacking and travel in Romania has already been mentioned a few times. Your travel budget will take you further in this country.

To be honest, Romania isn’t as cheap as I anticipated. That’s not to say it’s expensive. It’s not. Essentially, I was expecting to find a place with dollar beers on every corner. It is actually closer to $2 for half-liter of domestic brew.

So what does “cheap” mean in Romania? What kind of budget do you need?

Cost Comparisons of Travel in Romania

In comparison to Northern Europe, Romania is dirt cheap. Next to Iberian countries, food is a little cheaper, but accommodation and transportation is significantly cheaper. Compared to most of the USA, it’s an affordable destination.

Romania is in the European Union but does not use the EURO. The local currency is the Romanian Leu (RON), plural Lei, which breaks down into 100 Bani.

Romanian currency money Lei and bani

As of late-July 2022: 

  • $1 USD is worth 4.84 RON
  • 1 EURO is about 4.94 RON

This conversion has been closer to 4 RON and 4.50 RON, respectively, over the last few years. What this means for American and EU travelers is that the current exchange rates make Romania an even more affordable destination than in recent years.

Compared to most of Europe, Romania is a cheap place to travel. Average incomes are among the lowest in the European Union, and cost of living is in line with income. You can easily find a reasonably nice meal for less than $10 USD (50 RON) in most tourist areas.

traditional Romanian food polenta sarmale bacon sour cream pepper
traditional Romanian food, about $8 in tourist area

That’s cheap! Consider that costs are always inflated in high-traffic tourist areas and City Centers. To find a decent meal for that price in a popular location is indicative of overall affordability in a destination.

With fewer tourists from wealthy countries, many Romanian businesses also depend on local customers. This keeps prices lower in tourist areas than those in a typical European tourist area catering to wealthy foreigners.

Daily Budget

You can travel in Romania with ease for $50/day. With this budget, you can stay in a hostel or a decent hotel, eat out for all meals, cover transportation and enter paid attractions. You won’t really have to pay much attention to spending habits.

Backpacking in Romania can be even cheaper. If you eat outside of tourist areas, avoid nightclubs, limit paid attractions and stay in hostels, you can easily trim that budget by $10-20/day.

Bucharest is generally the most expensive city in Romania. Other tourist cities, such as Brasov, are more expensive than smaller towns and rural areas, but it is easy to save money outside of the tourist center.

Examples of Prices in Romania

Here are a few examples of prices I paid in Romania (2022, in USD):

  • Hostel in Bucharest: $10-14/night
  • Rush Hour Uber (over an hour) from OTP Airport to Bucharest Center: $15 
  • Bus, 5-hour Trip: $17 (84 RON)**
  • Organ Concert in Historic Church (Brasov): $4 (20 RON)
  • Large Iced Latte: $2-3 (10-15 RON)
  • Meal, Outside Tourist Center: $4-5 (18-25 RON)

**buses are much more expensive than trains

These exchange rates are approximations. Inflation has hit Eastern Europe harder than Western Europe or the USA. The Romanian Leu has been weakening in 2021-22.

The Hangry Backpacker’s Guide to Bucharest on a Budget is coming soon!


Thinking About Trying Out a Hostel?

Check out the Hangry Backpacker’s Hostel Series!


Is it Safe to Travel in Romania?

There are a lot of stereotypes about travel safety in Romania. Most of them are untrue. To be fair, I am a male sizing in about 6’4” and 240 pounds, but I never once felt unsafe. Not one single time. Even walking at night, personally, I did not feel unsafe.

Brasov Romania street at night

I try to be an observant traveler. When I’m walking around with thousands of dollars worth of electronics, it’s easy to be a little paranoid. I maintain a tight grip and a suspicious eye in these moments.

It might be fair to call that overreacting, especially as I never felt unsafe in Romania. However, that’s the key to safe travel. It’s okay to be comfortable. It’s more important to remain observant, mind your belongings and not be an idiot.

Getting Around

Is it difficult to travel in Romania? Do they speak English? These are common concerns for travelers heading to any country for the first time.

Fortunately, navigating around Romania is easy for most visitors. Although it isn’t the most modern country, the infrastructure is good enough. Getting directions, ordering food, checking into hotels – it’s just like anywhere else.

Backpacking in Romania, if you travel away from typical tourist destinations, may incur a few more challenges. These challenges, though, are generally minimal and not worth much consideration when deciding whether or not to visit the country.

Transportation in Romania

Transportation in Romania is good. It’s not fast. It’s not always efficient. But it is reliable.

Large cities are well-connected with trains. There may be long journeys with multiple transfer stations on longer routes. Trains are also the cheapest way to get around, but they do not serve many smaller towns or villages.

Buses tend to be faster and have slightly better connections to more locations. Travel by bus is also much more expensive in Romania.

The main challenge of transportation is for backpacking in Romania and venturing beyond the more popular tourist locations. Smaller towns and rural areas being less connected leaves travelers scrambling for rideshare services or local vans/buses that are less reliable.

Renting a car is an excellent option to get around the countryside independently. However, drivers in Romania are totally nuts. Exercise caution if you choose to rent a car.

Language Barriers

Aside from rural or more remote areas, you can count on English being spoken. In Bucharest, it feels like the whole city speaks English. Young people, especially, speak English well.

There are minorities of German, Hungarian and Ukrainian speakers in parts of Romania. The primary language in the 21st Century is overwhelmingly Romanian, followed by English, but it is interesting to see occasional signs in other languages that provide insight into local history.

Sign in Transylvania in German Hungarian and Romanian languages
a sign in Transylvania – in German, Hungarian & Romanian

In major tourist cities, travelers really don’t need to worry about a language barrier. Aside from a few basic phrases to say “thank you” or “hello,” there’s no need to start studying the Romanian language.


Romania has a lot to offer travelers. On the surface, it may not have the flashy appeal of sunny Mediterranean destinations or impressively-preserved history of the UK. The value in traveling to Romania is what the country offers beyond the superficial. It is one of the best places in Europe to visit and easily experience the country beyond a tourist bubble.

Sinai Monastery in sunshine in front of Carpathian Mountains in Romania

Backpacking in Romania is fun, too. The challenges backpackers face are not so fierce that frustrations overtake the fun.

Romania is a safe, budget-friendly travel destination with attractions ranging from food and drink to nature and history. This is an ideal place to see a part of Europe that is in the midst of spectacular changes and maintains a hold on its authentic, traditional roots.

Filed Under: Get Lost

10 Easy Day Trips from Madrid

January 26, 2021 By Hangry Backpacker 2 Comments

The abundance of easy day trips from Madrid adds to the attraction of the city as a travel destination. Spain is not an exceptionally large country, and every inch seems to hold a point of interest or place of distinction, especially the area around Madrid.

Madrid City Center Day Trips from Madrid

Madrid has enough attractions, landmarks and culture to occupy a visitor for days, if not weeks. The city is full of history, unbelievably delicious food and a lively atmosphere, but these qualities spill over into the cities and towns around Madrid as well.

Whether you’re looking for a day away from the city enjoying the outdoors, exploring Spain’s storied history or tasting incredible local delicacies, there are several easy day trips from Madrid to enhance any visit. The transportation network in and around Madrid makes these day trips an even simpler undertaking for travelers.

Madrid is an great tourist destination made better by the surrounding area. When in Spain, make sure to allot extra time to explore beyond the most famous sites. Using the capital city as your base, here are ten easy and worthwhile day trips from Madrid:

Segovia

The small city of Segovia is one of the most popular day trips from Madrid. Segovia is steeped in thousands of years of history that is generously on display.

Segovia has three principal landmarks which garner a significant amount of attention. These landmarks tell the tale of Segovia and, to a greater extent, Spain, from Roman times through the Renaissance to today.

View of Segovia Spain Old City from tower of Alcazar

The 16th-century Cathedral of Segovia is a beautiful masterpiece that dauntingly sits atop the city. The medieval Alcazar of Segovia, nearly a thousand years old, has excellent views, stories and local history within its walls. Though less visible from afar, the Roman aqueduct of Segovia is truly a spectacular, jaw-dropping remnant of the ancient world.

All of these historic sites have stood the test of time. Each is unique and plays an important part of the history of this city and Spain. Also, each of these can be easily (and affordably) explored in a day trip from Madrid. Entrance to the Alcazar tops out at €8, while visiting the cathedral peaks at €7. The aqueduct is free to visit.

Segovia isn’t entirely ancient. Today, the attractive city center is perfect for further wandering, and the city is even better for eating. From famous lamb and suckling pig to sweet local delicacies, Segovia has it all.

Located about 40 miles (25 km) northwest of the capital, Segovia is an easy choice among day trips from Madrid. The journey takes 30 minutes by high speed train (about €26) and a little under two hours by normal train (€12-14 round trip) from Madrid Chamartin train station.

Consuegra

By Emily from Wander-Lush

For one of the more unconventional day trips from Madrid, follow in the footsteps of one of Spain’s greatest literary legends, Don Quixote, to the beautiful landscapes around Consuegra. The small municipality in Castile-La Mancha’s Toledo, roughly 140 kilometres (87 miles) south of Madrid, is known for one thing: It’s majestic windmills, which Cervantes’ protagonist famously ‘tilted at’ in the novel.

Consuegra windmills on a day trip from Madrid Spain

The set of 12 whitewashed windmills known as the Molinos de Viento de Consuegra were originally built in the 19th century for grinding flour. They’ve since been decommissioned and now serve as exhibition spaces, while one has been transformed into a tourist office and gift shop. Located on a narrow ridge on the edge of town, the windmills cut a striking figure. The view of the windmills silhouetted against the sky and endless plains beyond is awe-inspiring.

Other things to do in Consuegra include visiting the Castillo de Consuegra, an old fortress that affords more views of the windmills, and the Municipal Museum in town. Restaurante El Retorno Consuegra serves up regional specialties and is an ideal place to break for lunch. Don’t miss Mazapanes Peces, a family run bakery that’s been making traditional Toledo marzipan since 1915.

The town and windmills can be reached by local bus in a little over two hours, but it’s preferable to hire a car or join a day excursion to make the most of your time. It’s a good idea to combine your visit with a stop in Toledo, which lies roughly halfway between Consuegra and Madrid.

Aranjuez

By Eva from Elevate Calm

The town of Aranjuez was a beloved destination for the Spanish royals. As soon as you set foot here, you can sense it was once fully planned and developed as an area for nobility.

Aranjuez is located south of Madrid, just 35-45 minutes away by train. To encourage tourism, and making this one of the most affordable day trips from Madrid, the Spanish railway service offers economic round trip tickets for just €5 versus €6.25 for a single ticket.

Despite the original plans, Madrid’s first railway finished at Aranjuez. It was used by the royal family for a safe and convenient trip to their spring residence. Since 1984, the so-called Strawberry train has gone from the Madrid Railway Museum to Aranjuez, paying tribute to the industrialization of Spain.

Aranjuez Spain central plaza on a day trips from Madrid

If you enjoy history and fancy a strawberry degustation, you might enjoy taking this antique train with wooden seats and hostesses dressed in 19th-century attire. The chief sight in Aranjuez is the fascinating Royal Palace, which is best visited with a guide to inform you about the craftsmanship and attention to detail that have gone into its decoration.

Aranjuez’s relaxed atmosphere is aided by the marvelous parks and royal gardens (Jardín de la Isla, Jardín del Parterre, Jardín del Príncipe), which instantly take you back in time. The stroll through a variety of flowers, trees, fountains and pavilions is enchanting and unforgettable.

Valley of the Fallen

By Izzy from 24 Hour City Guides

One of the more somber day trips from Madrid is just 45 minutes from the city center. The Valley of the Fallen, or Valle de los Caídos, is a place that holds a unique and, at times, controversial position in Spain’s heart.

Giant Cross Valley of the Fallen memorial in Spain

The resting place of tens of thousands of victims from both sides of the Spanish Civil War, the Basilica of the Holy Cross was also the burial place of General Franco, the architect of that war and the following dictatorship, during which he ruled the country with an iron fist until his death in 1975. Such was the controversy surrounding Franco’s resting place here. Tributes to him were banned in the Basilica.

In 2019, after a long court battle, his remains were finally exhumed and moved to his family mausoleum. Whether this has the desired effect of “symbolically closing the circle of Spanish democracy” remains to be seen.

The Valley of the Fallen is a beautiful (though haunting) place on the slopes of the Sierra de Guadarrama mountains, where the final push of the war took place. The 152-meter-high cross that dominates the Basilica and surrounding buildings is easy to spot from miles away. Finished in 1959 and hewn from local granite, the scale of the buildings and cross against the mountain backdrop is breathtaking. The views are equally spectacular.

Take the 664 bus from the Moncloa Interchange in Madrid to the entrance of the valley. From here, you can walk the remaining three miles. The memorial is open every day except Mondays, from 10 AM to 6 PM from October to March and to 7 PM from April to September. Entry costs €9.

Alcala

By Tom from Travel Past 50

Alcalá de Henares was once a Roman city, but the reason it’s famous today is for its university, the second oldest in Spain (after the University of Salamanca). The University of Alcala was founded by Cardinal Ximénez de Cisneros in the early 16th Century. Alcalá is also noted for the most famous native of the city and alumnus of said university, Miguel de Cervantes Saavedra, author of Don Quixote.

The entire old part of Alcalá that surrounds the campus is one of the most incredible UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Spain. You can admire the medieval columns which line a walk in front of the old buildings. You can visit numerous churches, the archbishop’s palace, the cathedral, Cervantes’ birthplace and more.

alcala de henares Spain

Be sure to see the University’s “Room of the Nymphs,” a small auditorium where students take their final oral exams and where the Cervantes Prize for Spanish Language Literature is awarded.

As you look at Cervantes’s statue in the main square, ask yourself why is this fellow who wrote a hilarious and scathing satire of Spain – and, in the process, adding the phrase “tilting at windmills” to a language not even his own – the most revered figure in Spanish literary history?

Also ask yourself why every tower in the city is home to a family of storks. It’s an odd scene, to be sure, that there are literally hundreds of massive nests and ungainly birds wherever you look.

Alcalá is one of the easy and cheap day trips from Madrid Atocha station on the Cercanias train system. The train takes about 40 minutes and costs a few euros.

Toledo

By Linn Haglund from Brainy Backpackers

One of the best day trips from Madrid is, without a doubt, the medieval town of Toledo. The historic center has nearly as many historical sites per square meter as Rome. That should say it all.

Make sure you at least visit the cathedral and the Jewish quarter on a day trip to Toledo, but there are also a whole lot of interesting museums highlighting the city’s dramatic history and famous artists. And when in Toledo, you also want to try the marzipan for which the city is especially famous.

Monasterio de San Juan de Los Reyes Toledo Spain

To save money on entry tickets, you can get a tourist bracelet. Prices start at €9 and get you into most of the highlights. The center of Toledo is car free (except for residents), so make sure you wear good walking shoes to cross kilometers of cobblestone streets.

Toledo is also a highly touristy town, so make sure you practice responsible tourism and respect the locals during your day trip. Less than an hour away from Madrid, Toledo is easily reached by train, bus, and car. Public transport is only a few euros.

Rascafria

By Brittany from Travel X Britt

For outdoors lovers, Rascafria is the perfect city escape within arms reach for Madrilenos to visit. There are tons of hikes in the area along with Rascafria’s nearby city center. If you’re looking for nature-themed day trips from Madrid, start here.

Let the senderismo (‘hiking’ in Spanish) begin! One of the most famous hikes outside of the national park is Cascada de Purgatorio. There is parking available at the monastery. If going by bus, it’s about a 25-minute walk from the bus station.

The route starts at the beautiful Monastery of El Pilar and takes about 8 km of hiking (approximately 1 hour and 50 minutes) to reach the waterfall. The entire route takes a bit under 4 hours. It is moderately easy so it’s a great route for anyone. Along the way, you’ll find picturesque rocks and mountains, with a 10 meter high waterfall waiting at the end. You can bring lunch, eat at the waterfall and then go for a swim.

Outdoor day trips from Madrid in Rascafria Spain

If you are not into the outdoors, the city of Rascafria also holds up well for visitors from Madrid. In the city center, there is the Plaza de los Trastámaras, tons of restaurants and a neo-Mudejar style town hall.

For festival lovers, Rascafria also has a Natural Folk festival in June. And the Mushroom, Game and Wine Food Festival is in October-November.

Rascafria is about an hour to two hours from Madrid. Car is an easy way to get there. Public transportation includes bus 194 or 194A from Plaza Castilla for about €15.

Avila

By Nicole from Go Far Grow Close

Avila is specially designated among day trips from Madrid. It is a World Heritage City, and the fortified walls that surround the old city of Avila are a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The walls were built between the 12th and 13th centuries and are considered among the finest city defenses in the world. They are two and a half kilometres long and, at least, three metres thick. To this day, you are able to walk on top of certain portions and learn about the fascinating history. The views atop the wall are amazing.

Throughout its early medieval history, Avila alternated between Christian and Moorish rule and attracted noble families. Accordingly, with these influences, there is a vast array of medieval architecture found throughout the city. This includes the palaces of those nobles.

For those who love churches, cathedrals and religious history, Avila has a lot to offer. From the 12th-century Romanesque church, the Basilica de San Vincente, to the oldest Gothic cathedral in Spain, Catedral de San Salvador, and the Convento de Santa Teresa, built in 16th century to celebrate the Saint Teresa, this city will keep you enthralled for days.

Madrid Metro old museum trains

Avila is 109 km from Madrid or approximately one and half hours by car, depending on traffic. By train, it can take one and a half to two+ hours depending on your starting point in Madrid. Trains depart for Avila from multiple Madrid stations, and tickets cost €10-15 each way.

Salamanca

By Ucman from Brown Boy Travels

Salamanca makes for a perfect day trip from Madrid for many reasons. It is easily reachable by bus or train, and a round trip ticket costs less than €30 for the high speed train. It takes less than an hour and a half to reach Salamanca from Madrid.

Salamanca is famous for its beautiful architecture, university and the beautiful Plaza Mayor, the most beautiful plaza in Spain. It’s a significant distinction for a country in which every city, big or small, has a plaza that serves as the heart of the city.

Salamanca Catehdral Spain

The University of Salamanca has the honor of being the third oldest university in Europe. It was chosen well, and, through centuries, it has produced many notable figures in Spanish history. The building alone with its intricate facade will make you wonder if this really is just a university building.

The cathedrals, old and new, small gardens, Roman bridge – there’s so much to see and do which can be comfortably covered in an easy day trip from Madrid. When you need a break, try some Hornazo from any bakery or restaurant. This regional delicacy may be worth the trip by itself.

Salamanca is very walkable, and the beautiful, aristocratic houses surrounding the city keep the walk interesting. Next time you’re in Madrid, say goodbye to the Spanish capital for a day and immerse yourself in the culture of Salamanca. You will not be disappointed.

El Escorial

El Escorial is an historically important structure closely tied to Spanish monarchy. The complex, which predominantly functions as a museum and monument today, has served as a center of education, religion and government. And, of course, El Escorial was the home of the Spanish monarchs for centuries.

Exterior of El Escorial Royal Complex in Spain

Today, the enormous complex at El Escorial is famous for its art, stately rooms, basilica and tombs. In particular, the royal crypt, the final resting place of many Spanish kings and queens, is a subterranean sight to behold. The ornate detail in the crypt is only matched by the powerful stillness in the room.

Aside from the deceased, El Escorial offers visitors a glimpse into what life was like for royalty in centuries past. The outside of the building, menacing in size but somewhat dull in appearance, conceals the splendor that lies within the powerful walls. Frescoed ceilings, murals hundreds of feet long, stately libraries and so on. The halls and room inside El Escorial are far more interesting than the exterior is imposing.

El Escorial is one of the quickest to reach of these day trips from Madrid. Only 25 miles to the northwest of the city, It can be reached in less than an hour from Madrid Chamartin or Puerta de Atocha for about €7 each way.


Madrid is an excellent base to explore the central region of Spain. Whether you’re traveling with friends, traveling with a significant other or landing in Madrid as a solo traveler, spending time outside of the destination is key to thoroughly experiencing the culture and history.

Roman Aqueduct Segovia Spain city center on a foggy day

Each of these day trips from Madrid provides an easy boost to your trip. The city has a lot to offer that attracts millions of visitors each year, and the attractions of the surrounding region only heightens the allure of Madrid.

Filed Under: City Guides, Get Lost

Vietnam Travel Itinerary & Guide

October 15, 2020 By Hangry Backpacker Leave a Comment

A travel itinerary for one month in Vietnam can generally go in two directions: north-to-south or vice-versa. Backpackers have a little more flexibility in their Vietnam travel itinerary, and the options for visiting alternative destinations are endless.

Karst formations Ha Long Bay Vietnam

One month of travel in Vietnam is not nearly long enough to thoroughly explore the country. Vietnam is not an especially large country, but it is very long with tedious travel required between cities. First-time visitors, backpackers, solo travelers and those looking for a thorough experience in Vietnam should plan ahead and use this itinerary to maximize time in one of the most fascinating countries in the world.

Why One Month?

The reason this Vietnam travel itinerary is for one month is because that is the most common length of e-visa granted to tourists. Be practical and check the dates on your documents. Depending on how immigration officials mark your visa, the length of stay can be less than 30 days. Mine was actually 31 days.

Citizens of some countries can enter Vietnam visa-free for 15 days, but this isn’t enough time to see more than two or three places.  Were I able to enter without a visa, I would still opt to pay for the longer duration. At $25 USD (you have to pay cash in USD, euros or Vietnamese dong), it’s cheap.

One month, or 4 weeks, whatever the length of your stay in Vietnam, check your documents and eligibility. Make sure to apply for the e-visa before you travel to the country.

Travelers arriving at certain international airports can also choose a 90-day visa option. Though more expensive ($70), it allows travelers the multiple-entry option over that 3-month period. Of course, three full months in Vietnam would be an unforgettable travel experience.


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Should You Travel Vietnam North-to-South or South-to-North?

As noted in this comparison of Hanoi versus Ho Chi Minh City (formerly Saigon), Vietnam differs significantly from north to south. Some of the differences are due to climate, while others are due to politics and history.

The decision of whether to set your Vietnam travel itinerary in a north-to-south or south-to-north direction depends where you arrive and where you’re going next. If the idea is to return home after the trip, the start/end point doesn’t really matter. If you’re hopping around Southeast Asia via airplanes, again, it doesn’t matter which direction you travel.

Spicy Vietnamese food

For most travelers, and certainly for backpackers in Vietnam, there will likely be further travel after visiting the country. Whether to start your Vietnam travels in Hanoi (north) or Ho Chi Minh City (south) depends on your plans after Vietnam. Overland travel means the next destination can be Laos, Cambodia or China.

  • Vietnam to China:

Crossing from Vietnam into China is not a common travel route. Lukewarm relations between the countries and more stringent visa policies for entrance into China mean this is not common or practical (if even possible) for most tourists.

  • Vietnam to Laos:

The Vietnamese border with Laos is the country’s longest international border. However, due to the rugged terrain of Vietnam, crossing the border to Laos is, at the very least, a laborious ordeal.

It is not uncommon to travel overland from Vietnam to Laos, but it is less common. The most popular route would be from Hanoi to Luang Prabang or Phonsavan. Either journey is exhausting and will essentially take an entire day on a bus. Car/motorbike will be faster, but there are vehicle restrictions at some Vietnam-Laos border crossings.

  • Vietnam to Cambodia:

The most popular overland, international travel route from (or to) Vietnam is to Cambodia. In southern Vietnam, Ho Chi Minh City is about 130 miles (about 210 km) from Phnom Penh. The terrain is also pretty flat in this part of Vietnam and Cambodia. Flat land means a decent road, and a decent road (by Southeast Asian standards) between the two cities means that travel from one to the other is relatively painless.

Travel time from Ho Chi Minh City to Phnom Penh takes about three to four hours. The border crossing, though not especially annoying or frustrating, adds at least an hour to that time. It’s a fairly easy trip that costs around 200,000 VND (about $10 USD).

Thu Bon River Bridge and Hoi An Vietnam old town

The north-to-south travel itinerary in Vietnam provides the easiest route of onward travel. The opposite direction, finishing in the north, is equally tiresome and more commonly undertaken by backpackers in Vietnam than other types of travelers. That doesn’t mean you shouldn’t consider traveling south-to-north and crossing from Vietnam to Laos. It’s just a different journey, and that border-crossing takes a lot longer. Personally, I think these experiences are often more memorable and fun.

The Easiest One-Month Vietnam Travel Itinerary

This route will give you a thorough taste of Vietnam. It’s the ideal itinerary for the person who wants to see as much of Vietnam as possible without going too fast and missing things. This Itinerary is also perfect for travelers who want to delve into Vietnam for a month to figure out where in the country they may want to return and spend more time in the future.

This is a north-to-south Vietnam travel itinerary. It can be flipped around to go south-to-north should you wish to end your Vietnam travels in Hanoi.

Hanoi – 4-5 days

Hanoi is the political and cultural capital of Vietnam. The city of 8 million people and almost as many motorbikes is really old, with sites over a thousand years old. There are many points of interest in Hanoi, ranging from the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum to the Hoa Lo Prison (Hanoi Hilton) and ancient temples.

Tran Quoc Pagoda Hanoi Vietnam

The Old Quarter of Hanoi is the center of tourism and history in the city. Despite being the tourist center, it is very much a local area. Hanoi’s Old Quarter is a chaotic, beautiful, busy, mind-boggling labyrinth of business, history, motorbikes, culture and food. Seriously, the food is incredible, and this place is wild.

During my first trip to Hanoi, I planned to stay for 3 days. After my first day, I wanted to leave. It was overwhelming. After reaching my third day in Hanoi and exploring further, I was hooked. I wound up staying for six days, and I didn’t want to leave then.

It would be easy to spend a few days only in the Old Quarter. Four days is adequate for a taste of Hanoi’s historic center and the surrounding newer parts of the city. A fifth day will be easy to do. Personally, on my next trip to Vietnam, I’ll be spending at least a week in Hanoi.

Cat Ba Island/Ha Long Bay – 3 days

About two hours east of Hanoi, along the only decent highway in Vietnam (between Hanoi and Haiphong), is Ha Long Bay and Cat Ba Island. Ha Long Bay, a seascape of limestone karst formations towering above the water, is the most famous natural tourist attraction in Vietnam. For clarification, “Ha Long Bay” is used in reference to the entire archipelago – Ha Long Bay, Lan Ha Bay, etc.

Ha Long Bay Fisherman House

The city of Ha Long is on the north side of this natural phenomenon, and Cat Ba Island sits to the south. Most tourists decide to visit Ha Long Bay from the eponymous city, but Cat Ba offers the same tours and beautiful scenery on an island with far fewer tourists. The island is still popular and developed, but it’s simply not nearly as crowded as Ha Long.

I spent three days on Cat Ba Island. One of those days was spent on a large boat with four other tourists exploring Ha Long Bay and the surrounding area. The rest of the time I used to explore Cat Ba Town.

Two days is long enough to reach Cat Ba Island, explore Cat Ba Town and spend a day sightseeing in the archipelago. If possible, I recommend a third day for extra time sailing through the islands or to visit the national park on the island.

Tam Coc/Ninh Binh – 2 days

Tam Coc is sort of like Ha Long Bay but on land. Instead of karst formations rising above the sea, there are rice fields, villages, rivers and wilderness between the towering rocks. Tam Coc is a small town where most tourists set off to tour the landscape via small boats on the rivers or by hiking.

Tam Coc Ninh Binh rice fields Vietnam

Ninh Binh is the larger city a few miles away. There is little in Ninh Binh that will interest most travelers. Tam Coc, on the other hand, is a wonderful little town surrounded by natural beauty.

I spent a couple of days in Ninh Binh. As noted, most tourists won’t find much of interest here, and most tourists are simply here to see the countryside. Personally, I found Ninh Binh to be a cool city with excellent food and relatively few tourists. I spent a further three days in Tam Coc hiking, relaxing and enjoying a quieter setting.

Two days is plenty for the average traveler to see Tam Coc. The small town is nice, but there isn’t much to it. The surrounding landscape is the primary tourist draw, and that can be reasonably covered in a couple of days.

Hue – 2 days

Hue (pronounced: hway) is the former royal capital of Vietnam. The city is located about halfway between Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City and home to about 500,000 people.

Hue is a popular stop on backpacker itineraries for Vietnam largely due to its location. Whether you’re traveling north to south in Vietnam, or vice-versa, you pretty much have to go through Hue. Thanks to the aforementioned historic status as a royal city, Hue also has a few notable points of interest. The Imperial City and Citadel are each popular attractions.

Imperial City of Hue entrance

I spent three days in Hue, and this was more than enough time. Aside from the historical points of interest, there isn’t much to it. In fact, I found it to be a somewhat unpleasant place with a lot of sketchy people who all wanted to rip off tourists. Aside from great food – it is Vietnam, after all – Hue is probably the only place I truly disliked in Vietnam. The Imperial City has an annoying, extra-high price just for foreigners.

Two days is adequate time in Hue. The Imperial City, though overpriced, is cool if you’re not on a backpacker budget. There are a few other minor things to see, and the food is good, but Hue is mostly a necessary stopping point in Vietnam (because transportation in the country sucks).

Hoi An – 4-5 days

Hoi An is super touristic, but it is also one of the most beautiful, fun cities in Vietnam. The Old Town of Hoi An is picturesque, charming and all of those things. Essentially, it has a well-preserved colonial old town and is the perfect place to wander and get lost.

Japanese Bridge Hoi An Vietnam

In addition to the Old Town, Hoi An is known for its tailors and night market. It is an excellent place to cheaply get high-quality, custom-made clothes. After fittings and measurements are complete, the night market has cheap goods and stall-after-stall of tremendous fresh food.

I spent a week in Hoi An. My initial plans did not even include Hoi An in my Vietnam itinerary, but other backpackers convinced me it was worth it. I then planned for two to three days, but backpacking is best with loose travel plans. I was in Vietnam in the middle of Tet (Chinese New Year). Travel in Vietnam during Tet comes with serious challenges. I sort of got stuck in Hoi An for longer than planned due to Tet, but I was happy to linger.

Four to five days is easy to do in Hoi An. Longer is understandable. Hoi An is touristy for a reason – it’s beautiful, interesting, historic and easy for tourists. The city is also a short bike ride (or a long walk) from beaches.

Da Lat – 3 days

Da Lat is unique in Vietnam. The former French colonial resort town is different in so many ways. The geographical position of Da Lat, about 5000 feet above sea-level, makes it cooler (relatively speaking) than other places on this Vietnam itinerary.

Da Lat is cleaner than most cities in Vietnam. It has a lot of flowers and a relaxed vibe, not something for which Vietnam is particular famous. Even the architecture in Da Lat is different, with super-modern structures in the middle of the city, the Crazy House and regular homes that have a strange Western-Asian fusion look.

Lam Vien Square Da Lat Vietnam modern buildings

I spent three days in Da Lat. Most of that time was spent eating and resting. At some point, I didn’t follow my own rules of food safety and was sick in Vietnam. Despite that, I still enjoyed wandering around and eating in Da Lat.

Three days is an ideal time for backpackers to stay in Da Lat. The unique city, despite having a population of nearly 500,000, is a nice break from the sweltering heat and nonstop commotion that is much of Vietnam.

Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon) – 5-6 days

Ho Chi Minh City is the largest city and economic center of Vietnam. Formerly Saigon, the southern counterpart to Hanoi is enormous, busy, loud and thriving. The city of nearly ten million people and somehow more motorbikes than Hanoi is significantly different than the nation’s capital.

Ho Chi Minh City is not only bigger and busier than Hanoi, the city is more modern and has a greater Western influence. It is home to some of Vietnam’s most famous museums, beautifully-preserved remnants of French colonial days and some of the best food in the world. Ho Chi Minh City is also a backpacker haven. Pham Ngu Lao Street is the backpacker center of Vietnam, though I’m not a big fan of the area due to the prices.

modern and colonial buildings Ho Chi Minh City

I spent 4 days in Ho Chi Minh City, and this was not enough time. The city itself deserves at least that much time to modestly sample the great food. Most of my time was spent wandering around surprised by the differences from Hanoi, sweating profusely and ticking a few major tourist sites off of my list.

Five days is a good amount of time in Ho Chi Minh City. The Cu Chi Tunnels (Vietnam War remnants) and the Mekong River Delta are popular day trips. The Mekong River Delta is especially worth a day outside of the city. The War Remnants Museum is an interesting look into the Vietnam War from the victor’s perspective. And the food in Ho Chi Minh City is worth a serious chunk of time. There is a lot more to do in Saigon, and five days is only a starting point.

Additional & Alternative Destinations

Obviously, the above travel itinerary through Vietnam does not quite add up to 30 days. Travel time between these places will likely take up a chunk of that time (more on transportation below), and many travelers may decide to linger somewhere they particularly enjoy.

The following are other popular (and worthwhile) places to visit in Vietnam. These can be substituted for above destinations or squeezed in if time permits. From top to bottom, the following is organized north-to-south.

  • Sapa (3 Days) – mountainous region known for terraced rice fields, national park and motorbike rides
  • Phong Nha (1-2 Days) – famous cave (only accessible by boat) and national park
  • Da Nang (1-2 Days) – large city north of Hoi An famous for Marble Mountains, Dragon Bridge and Golden Bridge (giant hands)
  • Nha Trang (2-3 Days) – beach city with a pretty bay, resorts, amusement parks and scuba diving on offshore islands
  • Mui Ne (2-3 Days) – small coastal town notable for beaches, watersports and huge sand dunes
  • Phu Quoc (3 Days) – largest island in Vietnam home to beautiful beaches and famous fish sauce

Backpacking, Solo Travel, Groups Tours & More

Backpacking is the ideal way to travel in Vietnam. Travel in the country is especially tedious. Clinging to timetables and plans is a great way to induce stress, anxiety and frustration. Backpacking provides the necessary wiggle room to keep your cool. Flexibility is key in your Vietnam travel itinerary, and patience is equally important.

Cam An Beach Vietnam

Solo travel is a fun way to tour Southeast Asia, especially if you’re staying in hostels. The backpacker trail in Southeast Asia is made for solo travel. In Vietnam, though I arrived by myself, I ran into the same travelers in city after city. Most people are going one of two directions, so you’ll see familiar faces again and again. This makes Vietnam incredibly adept to solo travel.

Group tours are a waste of money in Vietnam. The country is so cheap (see below), and most group tours in the country are grossly overpriced. The rigid nature of group tours in a place like Vietnam will be another drawback of traveling in a structured setting. The one advantage I can think of for group tours in Vietnam would be more comfortable transportation.

Transportation

The biggest impact on any Vietnam travel itinerary is transportation, particularly transportation between cities. No matter which way you look at it, transportation in Vietnam is a headache. I used 12Go for a lot of transportation in Asia, and it is a tremendous help.

Vietnam’s larger cities are heavily congested with motorbikes, and the noise is constant throughout the day and night. Fortunately, most of the big cities are fairly easy to get around on foot.

Powered by 12Go system
  • Travel by Bus

The most common method of travel around Vietnam is via bus. The highway system in the country is barely existent. Buses in Vietnam are a painfully slow method of transport, but they go pretty much everywhere. And they’re pretty cheap, too.

A majority of tourists opt for “tourist” buses in Vietnam. There isn’t a clear distinction between these and local buses, but the tourist buses will cost more and should be more comfortable. Local buses are a fraction of the price but are known to pack the vehicle to the brim. You might even wind up with a stranger’s child in your lap.

crowded local intercity bus in Vietnam

Tourist buses aren’t specifically for tourists. These are just more expensive options, though still cheap for most tourists. For example, I took a “sleeper” night bus from Hoi An to Da Lat. The trip took about 14 hours and cost about $15 USD (300,000 VND).

For a large person like myself (6’3”/250lbs), it was hell trying to sleep in the tiny cubby-bed. The capsule-beds are too short to extend my legs and too small to bend them normally. By the time I reached Da Lat, I felt like a stiff pretzel.

That being said, it is the more comfortable option compared to the cramped, slow(er) “local” bus. And for backpackers trying to keep their Vietnam travel itinerary budget-friendly, it makes sense. Buses are cheap, and saving money by not paying for a room/bed for a night means more cheap Vietnamese beer the next day.

  • Train Travel

To the surprise of many, Vietnam has an extensive rail network. It might be antiquated, uncomfortable and super slow – yep, slower than buses – but the country has trains! Travelers who enjoy trains will be in for an interesting rail travel experience in Vietnam.

Train travel in Vietnam is not that expensive. The route all the way from Hanoi to Ho Chi Minh City ranges from $40-65 USD. For the distance, that’s not a bad price. The downside is that the trip takes about 30 hours.

Train travel is an option in Vietnam, but it’s not fast or comfortable. Personally, a Vietnamese rail journey from top to bottom is on my bucket list, and I look forward to it. For more info on prices and times, check out what Seat 61 has on train travel in Vietnam.

  • Air Travel

The fastest way to get around Vietnam is via airplane. The country has major airports in Hanoi (north), Ho Chi Minh City (south), Da Nang (central) and Nha Trang (south-central). Tourists flying into or out of Vietnam primarily land in Hanoi or Ho Chi Minh City.

Flying between cities in Vietnam is not practical if you want to see much aside from the major cities. The only reason to fly between cities in Vietnam is for travelers with time constraints. For instance, travelers may have a flight out of Hanoi but are traveling north-to-south. Rather than spending 1-2 days on buses/trains getting back up north, a short flight from Ho Chi Minh City saves significant time.

  • Motorbikes in Vietnam

Vietnam has a ridiculous amount of motorbikes. They’re loud. They’re everywhere. Literally, tens of millions of motorbikes. And a lot tourists decide to get in on the action.

From an individual standpoint, it makes transportation easier. You have freedom to travel wherever on a motorbike, and you’ll get to see parts of the country few tourists ever do. Buying a bike in Hanoi/Saigon, riding from one end of the country to the other and then selling it to another backpacker is a popular way to travel Vietnam. The Ha Giang Loop (north of Hanoi) is a shorter trip that is also popular.

Honestly, it all sounds pretty fun. And, full disclosure here, I’ll probably partake in some motorbike adventuring on my next visit to Vietnam.

However, from a safety standpoint, I cannot recommend riding a motorbike for most travelers. I’ve stayed at several hostels throughout Vietnam, and I’ve met at least one traveler in every single hostel that had been in a motorbike accident. Several had the scars, scrapes and casts to prove it.

Motorcycles are obviously dangerous (if you get in an accident). In Southeast Asia, poor road conditions and drivers who barely follow traffic laws make the accidents and injuries worse. Inexperienced riders and tourists not accustomed to riding in Vietnam are at greater risk. There are short, single-day to multi-day motorbike tours ideal for those with less experience who can’t resist the temptation but still want the adventure.

Bridge in Hue Vietnam full of motorbike traffic

In addition to the inherent danger of riding a motorbike in Vietnam, it is technically illegal for many foreigners. On top of that, if you are in an accident, a lot of travel insurance companies have out-clauses where they don’t have to cover your injuries if you’re doing something illegal or especially dangerous.

A majority of motorbike-riding backpackers (BIKEpackers? Is that a thing?) never have any issues, but be aware that there are serious risks with motorbikes in Vietnam. And you may have to pay a “fine” to a cop to keep riding. Have fun, but be safe and ride at your own risk.

Vietnam Travel Costs

Vietnam is notable as a cheap travel destination. In my experience, Vietnam is actually the cheapest country in Southeast Asia.

The most obvious cost-saving measure in Vietnam is food. Local food is not only delicious, it’s cheap. A meal in a local restaurant/cafe will typically cost $2-3 USD. Street food in Vietnam is especially cheap, often 20,000 VND (about $1 USD) or less. Food in Hanoi is excellent and slightly cheaper than Ho Chi Minh City, though cheap eats can be found anywhere in Vietnam with a little patience and persistence.

A simple hotel in Vietnam (a family-run, local hotel) will cost $10-20 USD/night for a room with basic amenities. Large, international hotel chains are certainly nicer, but prices are high and beyond any backpacker budget.

Hostels are the way to go to save money. Of all the reasons to stay in a hostel, those in Vietnam are super cheap and often have much better locations than more expensive hotels. $10 USD/night is typical for a nice hostel with free breakfast and air conditioning. Rates can be cheaper depending on the city/location/amenities. Some examples of what I have paid:

  • Hanoi – $7/night (hostel, free breakfast, no A/C needed)
  • Cat Ba Island – $12/night (private hotel room, very basic)
  • Hoi An – $10/night (mediocre hostel, more expensive during Tet)
  • Ho Chi Minh City – $11/night (no A/C in backpacker district, not my favorite hostel)

Transportation is cheap. Souvenirs are cheap. Food, activities and most attractions are cheap. Pretty much everything about Vietnam is budget-friendly.

My travel costs in Vietnam, on a backpacker budget, were about $25/day. I ate local food, drank plenty of local beer and did just about everything I wanted to. My Vietnam travel itinerary was designed to be backpacker and budget-friendly. My costs could have easily been higher, but I also could have traveled even cheaper.

Beer Ha Noi in Tam Coc

Like most places in the world, your desired level of comfort will dictate costs of travel. Also, your Vietnam travel itinerary can influence travel costs. Essentially, backpacking is cheaper, and a one-way travel route in Vietnam also bodes well for travel budgets.

When – The Best Time to Travel to Vietnam

Vietnam is generally a hot, humid place. Surrounded by water, the warm weather is amplified by the heavy air. Mostly.

Vietnam is really long, over 1000 miles in a direct north-south measurement. Naturally, weather differs in a range this large. The southern three-quarters of Vietnam are pretty much always hot and humid. Seasons in the northern part of the country are slightly more pronounced.

Saigon is always hot. Winter typically has fewer rainy days, but the weather is still warm. I can personally attest to being in Saigon in the middle of Winter – no rain, still felt like a sauna.

Hangry Backpacker in Vietnamese jungle

Up north, the weather in Hanoi is somewhat seasonal. Most of the year is predictably hot and humid. However, temperatures in Winter are cooler, sometimes cool enough for a jacket and pants. The mountains north of Hanoi occasionally receive small amounts of snowfall.

I wouldn’t suggest packing your puffy coat in Vietnam. That’s a serious packing commitment, and unless you’re camping in the mountains mid-Winter, there’s no need for a heavy coat. I survived cool nights in Hanoi with a long-sleeve shirt and a rain jacket.

So, when is the best time of year to travel to Vietnam? There are two ways to answer this question, and neither is wrong.

First, Winter (December-March) is the most pleasant time of year. It is cool in the north and dry in the south. Of course, better weather means more tourists.

Second, Summer (June-August) is the hottest and wettest time of year. The dead of Summer wouldn’t be my first choice, but there are advantages to traveling in Southeast Asia during the rainy season. As a trade-off for the weather, there are fewer tourists.

The ideal time to spend one month of travel in Vietnam would be late-Fall or early-Spring, basically December to April. As a general guideline, the rains tend to start in April.

Traveling on either end of that time frame will likely mean fewer tourists and better weather. Keep in mind that the climate is different in the north and south, and the weather also varies slightly from other countries in the region.

Safety in Vietnam

The most common questions I get about Vietnam are regarding travel safety. Specifically, more than anything else, I hear, “Is Vietnam safe for Americans?”

Given that the United States and Vietnam were in the midst of a bloody war not so long ago, it’s a reasonable question. The answer is a resounding “yes.” I have never encountered a local in Vietnam with any animosity towards Americans. If anything, I have heard several Vietnamese people comment that what happened is in the past and between governments, not people.

In general, Vietnam is a very safe country for tourists. There are reports of scams and street thefts, such as pickpocketing and snatch-and-go theft.

Always mind your pockets in Vietnam, especially in big cities and crowded areas. Personally, I never had any issues, but, then again, I’m always looking over my shoulder and I wear smart travel clothing to prevent pickpockets.

Snatch-and-grab theft is reported by tourists on occasion. This happens when a tourist is carelessly walking or on a street corner, usually loosely holding onto their cell phone, purse, bag etc. Someone will come by on a motorbike or on foot, grab the item and flee before the tourist realized what happened. The trick is to hold on (tightly) to your stuff and pay attention.

Tourists in Hoi An Vietnam colonial old town

Violence against tourists is extremely rare. Most tourist injuries are from accidents involving motorbikes or alcohol. In rural areas, be cautious. In big cities, avoid bad neighborhoods. If you feel uncomfortable somewhere, just leave.

The “tourist tax” is the most common scam in Vietnam. This is simply the act of charging tourists more than locals. The amount is usually minimal, and there is little that you can do (unless you speak Vietnamese, perhaps). If the tourist tax levied upon you is egregious, stand up for yourself. Know and confirm prices before handing over money or getting your food. The tourist tax is one of the frustrating parts about travel in Vietnam, but smart travelers can work around it.

Taxi scams, especially motorbike taxi scams, are the worst scams that get tourists. Exercise caution before you hire a cab. Your hotel/hostel can help with a taxi if need be. Do not take a random motorbike taxi.

Common sense is the most valuable travel safety tool in Vietnam and everywhere else. No matter where you are, be aware and watch your back. Don’t do stupid things like stumble around drunk alone at night. Drugs are illegal, so maybe don’t be an idiot. Common sense, though shockingly uncommon, goes a long way.


Vietnam is one of the most fascinating countries in the world. The chaotic country will test the patience of many travelers. Whether backpacking, traveling solo, traveling with a significant other or even an organized group tour (but yeah, don’t do the group tour), those who wisely plan their Vietnam travel itinerary will find a country full of beautiful scenery, kind people, incredible food and culture.

Quan Thanh Temple Hanoi Vietnam

First-time visitors to Vietnam are warned of crazy scams and stereotypes based on ignorance or the misfortunes of the very few. Travel in Vietnam for a few days, a month or several months is all about patience and common sense. No matter when or where you go, a stop in Vietnam is a must when traveling in Southeast Asia.

Filed Under: Get Lost, Go Alone

Joseph, Oregon Travel Guide

September 30, 2020 By Hangry Backpacker 6 Comments

The small town of Joseph is an oddity among Oregon travel destinations. In Wallowa County, in the northeast corner of Oregon, the tiny town of Joseph sits roughly 4000 feet above sea-level and attracts tourists with a wide variety of interests.

Statue of Chief Joseph on Main Street in Joseph Oregon

With a little over 1000 people, Joseph is the second-largest “city” in Wallowa County. The large, rural county (about 7,000 people in an area larger than Delaware) is out of the minds of most Oregonians and unknown to most tourists. The attraction of Joseph and the surrounding area is the exception.

Despite being tiny and remote, there is a lot going on in Joseph. Local history is tied to the Nez Perce tribe (the city is named after Chief Joseph) and Oregon’s early history. The Wallowa Mountains are one of Oregon’s best natural wonders. And tourism is the backbone of the economy in Joseph, thanks not only to the natural beauty, but also a burgeoning art scene and a remarkably well-preserved old town.

What to Do in Joseph, Oregon

What to do in Joseph depends on your interests. There are several reasons to spend a day or so enjoying the town itself, and there are even more reasons to explore the surrounding area.

Shopping

Joseph has a thriving art scene. There are a surprising number of galleries selling artwork of all kinds. Bronzework is a particular local speciality. There are several galleries showcasing (and selling) curious bronze pieces and sculptures, and there are prominent bronze sculptures along the street too.

Aside from local art, like many older small towns, Joseph has plenty of shops full of antiques and old junk. The artsy nature of the town sees these various trinket shops laid out in an appealing presentation to lure in those who enjoy sifting through peculiar secondhand stuff.

gift shop gallery junk Joseph Oregon

On the less expensive end of the shopping spectrum, Joseph has a few souvenir shops that sell local goods of the cheaper, more lighthearted variety. For instance, Sasquatch (Bigfoot) is prominently featured on every souvenir imaginable.

Sasquatch statue in Joseph Oregon gift shop

With the exception of the occasional flea market, I kind of hate shopping. Joseph has a lot of cool stuff, though, and it’s one of those endearing small towns that is still dominated by local businesses. While I may not find joy in gingerly stepping through secondhand trinket shops – I’m petrified of the whole “if you break it, you buy it” mantra of these overpriced, cluttered spaces – I can get behind supporting local business.

Wallowa Lake

The picturesque Wallowa Lake sits on the southern edge of Joseph. With a stunning backdrop of the Oregon Alps shielding the lake from the south and west, Wallowa Lake is a major tourist draw in Northeast Oregon.

There is a public beach and boat launch on the north end of the lake, in Joseph. Kayaks, paddleboards and glass-bottom boats are available for rent here if you want to enjoy some time on the water.

Wildflowers at Wallowa Lake and the Oregon Alps in Joseph Oregon

On the south shore is Wallowa Lake State Park. This state park has campsites and cabins for rent, though these are in high demand during Summer months. There is also a marina, gift shops, food and another area for swimming.

The lake is sourced by the Wallowa River, which itself is largely sourced from snowmelt in the surrounding mountains. In other words, the water in Wallowa Lake is quite cold. Even on the warmest of Summer days, the lake isn’t ideal for swimming. Some people can handle a little cold water, but I can’t imagine spending very long in the chilly lake. Thankfully, it is a wonderful place to enjoy the scenery on a sunny day.

Wallowa Lake Tramway – Mount Howard

Open from late-Spring to early-Fall, the Wallowa Lake Tramway is a fun, unique experience a few minutes outside of Joseph, Oregon. The changing views from top to bottom are incredible, as riders are taken from mountain forests up to the peak of Mount Howard and an alpine environment.

Wallowa Lake Tram station

Operating for about 50 years, the Wallowa Lake tram is surprisingly fun. Not only are the views unforgettable, the shaky ride will challenge acrophobics and weak-stomached individuals. But don’t worry. The tram is safe and regularly inspected.

The Wallowa Lake Tram climbs 3700 feet (vertically) and takes about 20 minutes. The only downside to taking the easy way to the summit of Mount Howard is the price. It costs $36 per adult (up and down), but the view at the top is worth every penny. There is a small cafe at the top, which would certainly be an excellent place for a drink with a view, but the prices here are as steep as the tram ride.

View of Wallowa Mountains from summit of Mount Howard in Oregon

Mount Howard isn’t the highest peak in the Wallowa Mountains (Oregon Alps), but it is the ideal setting for the best view of the range. From the peak, the highest snow-capped peaks of the Wallowas are visible to the west and south, and the Seven Devils Mountains in Idaho are visible dozens of miles away to the east.

There is probably a trail for hiking to the summit of Mount Howard, but it would be an incredibly difficult trek and a long day. Take the tram and enjoy an easy day in nature with unbeatable views.

**Note: Joseph, Oregon is already 4000+ feet above sea-level. The tram climbs nearly 4000 feet more. Those not accustomed to higher elevation should take it slow.

Eagle Cap Wilderness

The Eagle Cap Wilderness is one of the wildest, most untouched places in Oregon, which is already a largely-unspoiled state. It is popular with backpackers (the outdoorsy, nature type of backpacking) for serious backcountry treks and hiking. As the only town near the area, Joseph is the natural start/end point for backpackers.

Eagle Cap Wilderness Wallowa Mountains

The Eagle Cap Wilderness is remote and rugged. The area is home to an abundance of wildlife hiding in the mountains including rams, cougars, black bears, elk and even Oregon’s small (but growing!) moose population.

At more than 500 square miles, the Eagle Cap Wilderness is not only the largest protected natural area in Oregon. The rugged terrain and remote location mean that the area is also far less busy than other popular hiking/trekking areas of the state.

Wallowa County Barn Tour

Not every tourist has the time or desire to get lost in the wild for days on end. For a much more comfortable and easier exploration of Joseph and the surrounding rural area, the Wallowa County Barn Tour is a self-guided driving tour of historic and picturesque barns in the county.

There’s something appealing about lonely old barns in tranquil settings. The Wallowa County Barn Tour makes it easy to track these scenes, though getting lost on the tiny backroads in the sparsely-populated, rural counties of the American West is even easier.

Joseph is home to several stops on the Wallowa County Barn Tour, perfect for those who don’t want to stray too far from the road and get lost in middle-of-nowhere Eastern Oregon.

SIngle barn on the Wallowa County Historic Barn Tour Oregon

A driving tour of barns may not appeal to many travel tastes, but Joseph is in a part of the country dominated by agriculture. These barns are more than photogenic relics of local history. The fact that most of Northeast Oregon is agriculture or timberland, if not altogether empty, means that a tour like this is an excellent way to explore the culture and really get off the tourist trail. It’s the perfect way to see a side of the United States that too few travelers, American or otherwise, ever witness.

If you’re only interested in rustic barns without the rural America part, that’s okay, too. Several of these historic barns are located in and around the town of Joseph.

Where to Eat in Joseph, Oregon

Joseph, Oregon isn’t known as a hotspot for food-focused travel. As stated, the surrounding natural beauty and the town itself are the primary draws. Fortunately for tourists in Joseph, this little town punches above its class when it comes to food.

Roast pork sandwich on ciabatta bread with peppers and sweet potato fries

Thanks to tourism and the artsy nature of Joseph, there are far more dining options in town than comparable cities. And these aren’t restricted to diners or small town cafes (which, by the way, I love and make places like nearby-ish Baker City a surprisingly enjoyable place to eat).

Joseph has several notable restaurants, ranging from brick-oven pizza to gourmet chocolates. When it’s time to eat, start here:

  • Old Town Cafe – breakfast, brunch and coffee
  • Gold Room – wood-fired, brick-oven pizza. I mean, what more do you need to know?
  • Arrowhead Chocolates – gourmet chocolate shop (honestly, I hate chocolate, but my girlfriend loved this place for the quality and low prices, an usual feature of chocolate shops)
  • Embers Brewhouse – great patio, lots of beers, decent food
  • Stein Distillery – if you’re not driving…
  • Stubborn Mule – local recommendation #1
  • Cheyenne Cafe – local recommendation #2

The most popular restaurant in Joseph is Outlaw. While I did not dine here, it was explicitly not recommended to me by several locals. It has a very touristy look. Another popular restaurant, The Dog Spot, is highly-rated, but it goes against my rules – how can a restaurant make such a large variety of food and make it all well? That menu is a bit strange.

Travel & Transportation in Joseph, Oregon

The best and easiest way to travel to Joseph, Oregon is to make a stop on the Great American Road Trip. Frankly, Joseph and the rest of Wallowa County are out of the way and especially rural. Of course, that’s one of the great things about the area, but a car is pretty essential to reach this corner of Oregon.

The Wallowa Mountains have no roads traversing through the range. For instance, if you’re coming from Baker City, even though it’s only 50 miles away, the drive still takes about two hours as you have to drive completely around the mountains.

Other travel times to Joseph are roughly as follows:

  • From La Grande (OR) – 1.5 hours (where drivers exit Interstate-84 to Joseph)
  • From Pendleton (OR) – 2.5 hours  
  • From Boise, Idaho – 4 hours
  • From Portland – 5.5 hours

There is no public transportation in Joseph, but you don’t need it. The town is so small that everything is within reasonable walking distance.

There is some, albeit limited, public transportation to Joseph. During summer months, the Wallowa Link runs bus services from La Grande to Enterprise and Joseph. It’s cheap ($5 each way), and you can find more information on their website.

Greyhound runs buses from Portland to Boise with stops in Baker City and La Grande, so it would be possible to reach Joseph this way. That would make for an especially slow, unpleasant journey. Joseph is also only be in reach with the Wallowa Link in Summer, meaning travelers in other times of year will still need to rent a car.

Highway in the mountains of Northeast Oregon

Joseph is pretty much in the middle of nowhere. While that makes reaching this part of Oregon more tedious, it makes the visit better. The remote location means that fewer tourists are willing to undergo that travel to Joseph, so even the most popular times of year aren’t terribly busy.

Hotels, Motels & More

Joseph is small. There aren’t many hotel options, and there are no motels in town. There is a small hotel and a few bed and breakfasts:

  • The Jennings Hotel
  • Bronze Antler B&N
  • Belle’s Pepper B&B
  • Kokanee Inn

Enterprise, Oregon is a typical small town in the rural American West. About 10-minutes from Joseph, Enterprise is a nice town, but there isn’t much happening (aside from Terminal Gravity Brewing). There are a few more motel options, though:

  • Eagles View Inn & Suites
  • The Wilderness Inn
  • Ponderosa Motel

For a more nature-oriented stay, look towards Wallowa Lake. The community on the south end of the lake has a few accommodation options including:

  • Eagle Cap Chalets
  • Wallowa Lake State Park (camping, RVs, yurts)

If you want a memorable Eastern Oregon experience (and plan on only visiting Joseph as a day trip), stay in Baker City. Yes, it’s a two-hour drive, but the Geiser Grand Hotel is the most remarkable, historic and peculiar hotel in this part of the United States.

When to Visit

The continental location and elevation of Joseph mean that it gets cold. Temperatures in Summer are typically mild with cool-to-cold nights. Winter is cold.

The best time to visit is the middle of Summer. The weather is perfect, and July 4th brings a big celebration to town and Wallowa Lake. Late-Spring to early-Fall are decent times, depending how well you handle the cold temperatures.

The first snows usually fall in October and the last of the season is normally in April or May. Snow tends to stick, but it’s not at the heavy depths of the Cascades or Rocky Mountains. Basically, Joseph is cold with a little snow for several months. Winter is not the best time to visit unless you plan to partake in Winter sports.


Joseph, Oregon is a peculiar travel destination in a remote, often overlooked corner of the state. The town has a little bit of old American West, some rural Oregon and a dash of Western Oregon. This all comes together to make a unique, pretty tourist town in Northeast Oregon.

Today, Joseph is becoming known more for its artistic qualities and boutique shops. It even has some decent food. Despite that, the city itself and the incredible natural beauty right outside of town remain the dominant tourist attractions.

Downtown Joseph Oregon and Oregon Alps

Northeast Oregon may not be known as a travel destination, but Wallowa County, particularly Joseph, is well worth a visit. This is one unique, out-of-the-way road trip stop that shouldn’t be missed.


This post contains affiliate links. I may receive a small commission for purchases made through these links – at NO additional cost to you.


 

Filed Under: City Guides

Baker City, Oregon Travel Guide

September 18, 2020 By Hangry Backpacker 2 Comments

Baker City, Oregon is an underrated travel destination. To be fair, Baker City may not be on many tourist radars or even rated at all. There’s something unique about this place, though, and it is well worth a stop for roadtrippers, American culture enthusiasts and anyone who wants to see a different side – the real side – of Oregon.

Baker City Tower on Main Street

Baker City, Oregon may not be a sought-after, world-famous or major travel destination. The small city of less than 10,000 people may not even be the most popular place to travel in Northeast Oregon. (I would look to the little town of Joseph and the Wallowa Mountains for that distinction.)

Why Travel to Baker City, Oregon

In Northeast Oregon, on the 45th parallel of the Northern Hemisphere – for all intents and purposes, essentially a different country, a different world, and a long way from the Willamette Valley and Interstate- 5 population centers – Baker City quietly sits about 3500 feet above sea-level. This is not a luxurious tourist town, and the only kind of backpacking is the outdoorsy, backcountry variety.

So why travel to Oregon and take a detour to Baker City? Why would I – the Hangry Backpacker – a food-minded, backpacking-focused travel enthusiast (bordering on obsessive and annoying, I freely admit) want to go to way out to rural Oregon?

For one, Oregon is far more than Portland.  As fun as the weirdness of Portland can be, there is more to Oregon than eccentric counter-culture, vegan everything,  coffeeshop madness and dispensaries galore. After living in Portland for years now, it becomes more apparent by the day how much the rest of the state has to offer.

Eastern Oregon is full of natural beauty, history, culture, cool towns and nice people. And small towns and cities are really where our true cultures remain intact, unaffected by the changes in faraway big cities. Oh, and these places are usually pretty cheap.

Main Street Downtown Baker City Oregon
Main Street

Tourists typically travel to Baker City and Northeast Oregon for the wondrous natural scenery, but that’s only part of the allure. Though often overlooked, this is the quintessential town for a taste of the American West.

Baker City is more than a pit stop, and it’s more than a base for exploring areas outside of town. From nature to history and even food, there is a lot more to Baker City than one witnesses speeding by on Interstate-84.

Attractions & What To Do in Baker City

Baker City, Oregon is more than a rest stop on the Great American Road Trip. There is a lot to do in the area. The small city is historic, pretty and interesting, and the surrounding area is an oasis of natural beauty in the largely uneventful terrain of Eastern Oregon.

Historic Downtown

Downtown Baker City is nationally recognized as a historic district and has plenty to interest visitors for a day or two. Personally, the most interesting parts of the downtown area are the various delicious restaurants, but there is more to do than stuff your face.

Baker City’s historic downtown is full of beautiful buildings, many of which are surprisingly old for this part of the country. There are stately hotels, classic movie theaters, historic churches and plenty of charming early-19th-century homes.

Exterior of Saint Francis de Sales Cathedral in Baker City on a sunny afternoon
Saint Francis de Sales Cathedral

Downtown is complete with antique shops, boutique coffee/vintage stores and plenty of local places selling random trinkets and junk. If you enjoy sifting through thoughtfully-arranged oddities and wares found in an old town of the American West, there is an abundance of that.

Aside from shopping for secondhand junk or eating your way through town, the historic nature of Downtown Baker City is a travel allure in itself. The city is one of the oldest in Eastern Oregon, and it’s history is aligned with that of the American West – ranching, railroads, gold and, of course, the Oregon Trail.

Eltrym Movie Theater in Downtown Baker City
Eltrym Movie Theater

The history of Baker City is largely overlooked, but it is visible downtown and beyond. This small city in Northeast Oregon is an excellent place to visit to sort of step back in time and imagine what it was like back in the wilder, boomtown days of the West. (To be clear, it’s not some run-down, forgotten hellhole. There are simply elements, reminders and feelings of those eras.)

Anthony Lakes

Though not in Baker City – travel time to these lakes in the Blue Mountains of Oregon takes about an hour – Anthony Lakes is worth the drive to visit for a day trip. The Blue Mountains are a natural spectacle of Oregon, and this is one the best spots (that is easily accessible) to experience the scenery.

Gunsight Mountain across Anthony Lakes Oregon
Summertime at Anthony Lakes

Anthony Lakes are a series of mountain lakes and marsh about 7000 feet above sea level. The area is popular for camping, hiking, fishing and other outdoorsy/water activities. Winter sees Anthony Lakes turn into a destination for snow sports, with the Anthony Lakes Ski Resort receiving quite a bit of snow to enjoy the 20+ ski runs.

There is a really easy hiking loop around the lake, about a mile in length, with several offshoot paths into the woods if you want to explore further or find different views of the mountains. There is a longer, 8-mile loop that goes all the way around Gunsight Mountain, the peak that looms above the lake. This longer hike is more difficult but offers a fun, scenic challenge.

Anthony Lakes isn’t exactly in Baker City, but it is a popular area for outdoor recreation for locals in the area. For tourists in Baker City who want to spend some time with Mother Nature, this is an ideal place. It’s fairly easy to reach, the air is crisp and the landscapes are truly stunning.

Geiser Grand Hotel

The famous and historic Geiser Grand Hotel is an oddity. It’s a beautiful, old hotel that seems peculiarly set in, of all places, Baker City, Oregon. The reasons behind that alludes to the history and importance of Baker City in the late-1800s.

Today, this unique hotel actually attracts tourists to travel to Baker City just to stay here. It was famous in centuries-past as the “finest hotel between Salt Lake City and Portland,” and today, restored to its former glory, the fancy Geiser Grand Hotel attracts travelers from afar.

Gesier Grand Hotel dining room and lobby
interior of the Geiser Grand Hotel

This is another landmark in Downtown Baker City, but the Geiser Grand Hotel is an attraction in itself and worth mentioning.

Northeast Oregon Heritage & Culture

Eastern Oregon is probably one of the most overlooked parts of the United States, especially for travel and tourism and especially Baker City. It’s not exactly the place many people think of when it comes to culture and history.

As mentioned above, there is a lot of history in Baker City, and it’s just sitting there along the streets. There are some notable museums that provide more insight and depth into what life was like way-back-when in this region of forgotten America.

Adler House Museum Baker City

The Adler House Museum is small in comparison to the next two museums mentioned here. However, this old home is an excellent example (and tour) of the glory days of Baker City’s history. Located on Main Street, the pretty house dates back to the late-1800s and was the home of a very important figure in local history.

The National Historic Oregon Trail Interpretive Center is one of the more unique and informative museums depicting and explaining the harrowing experience Americans encountered on their westward journeys in search of a better life. This large, state-of-the-art museum is a haven for Oregon Trail historical information and even has some easy hiking trails.

The Baker Heritage Museum is an excellent source for local history and information. The museum specializes in the local history of the Oregon Trail, as well as other local history, wildlife and culture.

Where to Eat in Baker City

Where to Eat in Baker City is probably the most common question travelers have as they’re passing through or resting in town for the night. Fortunately, there are some good answers.

The cuisine of Baker City is not the biggest tourist draw to this part of Oregon, but the dining options in the city are a pleasant surprise for many visitors. Baker City, especially the historic downtown, and the surrounding area are home to plenty of quality eating options.

Corn beef hash with eggs, hash browns, toast and coffee in Baker City, Oregon restaurant

As I often repeat, “food and drink is an open window into another culture.” This holds true in Eastern Oregon, too. Life is different in this part of the United States, especially compared to Portland and the Willamette Valley region, and that lifestyle is reflected in the great local food.

Whether it’s local restaurants highlighting local agriculture or one of Oregon’s best breweries – and that is really saying something, but Barley Brown’s is that good – Baker City has great eating and drinking options. For a more detailed and thorough breakdown, read the Hangry Backpacker’s Guide to Eating in Baker City.

Transportation

Baker City is not the easiest place to reach. It’s a small city, and there are no commercial flights and no passenger trains stopping in town. A car is pretty essential to visiting the area.

Classic 1940s Chevrolet pickup truck

You can take a Greyhound bus from Portland ($40-50, 7+ hours) or Boise ($20-30, 2+ hours), and, technically, there is a tiny commercial airport in Pendleton about 90 minutes away.

Even if you decide to take a bus to Baker City, there’s not really any way to get around without a car. Downtown is easy enough to traverse on foot, but anything outside of those few blocks will require a set of wheels.

Baker City, Oregon is a small town in the rural American West. A large, sparsely-populated region. In fact, it is the seat of Baker County, which has less than 20,000 residents and is larger than Delaware. Public transportation is all but nonexistent, and, no matter which direction you come from, reaching the town requires a bit of windshield time.

It should also be noted that there is nowhere in Baker City, Oregon (at least nowhere that I have personally seen or been able to locate online) that has rental cars. Baker City is an excellent road trip stop, but make reservations for rental cars early and practically.

Hotels in Baker City

Hotels in Baker City are largely limited to typical interstate motels. American highway mainstays like Motel 6, Super 8, Rodeway Inn and Quality Inn are examples of the majority of accommodation options in the city. Most of these are located near Interstate-84.

Aside from these, one motel stands out a bit. The Oregon Trail Motel is one block from Main Street in Downtown Baker City. The exterior of the motel screams rural, small town USA (in a good way), but the rooms are simple, cheap and clean.

The Oregon Trail Motel is far from fancy, but it has the perfect location; and the price is the best when factoring in location and the free breakfast. It feels like Eastern Oregon, the staff is great and the on-site restaurant has good food in an awesome local atmosphere.

As far as hotels in Baker City, Oregon go, none is more notable or prestigious than the Geiser Grand Hotel. This hotel was once of the top hotels in the entire northwestern United States.

Gesier Grand Hotel Downtown Baker City Oregon

Today, the Geiser Grand Hotel is one of the major tourist draws in Baker City. The turn-of-the-century style and decor is an homage to luxury in centuries past – back in the times when getting to Baker City took days, not hours.

The Geiser Grand Hotel is the most iconic landmark on Main Street, even if it is dwarfed by the 150-foot Baker City Tower. In a simple, unpretentious town, the Geiser Grand emanates luxury accommodation and fine dining even today.

Of course, staying in this fancy relic of glory days past will cost. Rooms go for more than $200/night. The historical element and fancy nature of the Geiser Grand Hotel is an attractive reason for many people to spend a day or two in Baker City. If you’re not looking to spend that kind of money, the hotel’s restaurant and bar are open to the public and absolutely worth a visit.

The Best Time of Year to Visit

The best time of year to visit Baker City depends mostly on what you’ll be doing. If skiing is of interest, Winter is best. If camping is the goal, then a warmer time of year will be smart. It is important to note that snow sticks in higher elevations longer than in town.

Baker City is pretty dry and fairly sunny. There are ample opportunities throughout the year to enjoy the town and surrounding attractions, be that beneath a blanket of snow or baking under the dry, Eastern Oregon sun.

From a strict weather point of view, the late-Spring to mid-Summer seasons are ideal. This time has warm days and cool nights, without temperatures being too extreme on either end of the thermometer.


Baker City, Oregon isn’t a flashy travel destination. It’s not a backpacker town, a hub of some obscure microculture or a remote sanctuary of luxury.

Baker City, Oregon is the place to visit for beautiful scenes of the real American West. This is the place to visit for travelers and roadtrippers seeking somewhere pretty, real, unpretentious and unique.

Historic Downtown Baker City Shop and zebra statue

Tourists are more likely to travel through Baker City than to Baker City. What the Interstate doesn’t reveal is a cool town in an interesting part of the United States. Baker City is the perfect visit for roadtrippers that want to see another side of Oregon complete with an historic old town, beautiful mountains and great food. As an added bonus, this part of America is pretty darn cheap.

Filed Under: City Guides

Granada vs. Seville: Full Travel Comparison

August 27, 2020 By Hangry Backpacker Leave a Comment

Granada vs. Seville – it’s not a simple comparison. This isn’t a debate of choosing Granada or Seville in a soccer game. Which Andalusian city should you visit on your trip to Spain?

Granada vs Seville the Hangry Backpacker

If possible and time permits, Granada and Seville (Sevilla) are both excellent places to travel in Spain. When time is not on your side, choosing a travel destination can be more complicated.

These two Spanish cities are both popular with tourists for a reason. Before you choose – if you have to choose – compare Granada vs. Seville in this analysis. Decide which one is the better place to travel for you.

Seville vs. Granada – The Main Attractions

Granada and Seville both have fantastic attractions that draw tourists. What about the top attractions? Does Granada or Seville have the better landmark travel highlight?

Granada:

The Alhambra complex is the major tourist draw in Granada. The grounds consist of palaces, a ruined fortress, extravagant gardens and even an art museum. All of this comes with great views over the city of Granada.

Hilltop view of Alhambra in Granada Spain

Alhambra is an enormous source of tourism. Millions of tourists visit each year, and it is a place that I could easily spend half a day wandering around (again).

Seville:

The famous Cathedral of Seville is the most prominent and popular tourist attraction in Seville. This massive church, one of the largest in the world, draws thousands of tourists and religious pilgrims on a daily basis. Seville Cathedral has tons of history, jaw-dropping interior decor and even the tomb of Christopher Columbus.

Seville city center from cathedral bell tower

Seville Cathedral also has the best view in the city. The bell tower, a former minaret, provides marvelous views of the city center in Sevilla.

Granada vs. Seville – which has the better major tourist attraction? Both of these sites are stunning, picturesque and full of history. The Alhambra is more difficult to visit and more expensive, but it is the clear winner here.

Seville Cathedral is cool, but there are a lot of massive churches in Europe. That’s not a bad thing; Seville Cathedral is different from other large European churches, but the Alhambra is definitely the more unique attraction.

Other Tourist Attractions

Aside from the major attractions in each city, which place is better for a variety of tourist attractions?

There are plenty of interesting things to do in Granada. Granada has big beautiful churches, too, and the hilly city also has several fantastic view points. But, truthfully, there aren’t that many significant, landmark tourist attractions in Granada aside from Alhambra. It is a city to visit for other reasons, which we’ll cover below.

On the other hand, Seville has tons of noteworthy tourist attractions. Aside from the imposing cathedral, Seville has the beautiful Plaza de Espana, Roman ruins scattered in and around the area, a famous royal palace (alcazar), modern architectural curiosities and a host of several impressive museums.

Plaza de Espana in Seville on a sunny afternoon

As far as significant, “noteworthy” tourist attractions, Seville is the clear winner versus Granada. Seville’s larger size and greater historical importance are the reason there are so many notable attractions in the city.

Seville vs. Granada – Where is the Better Food?

The Granada vs. Seville battle for best food is a terribly difficult and complicated contest to judge. Picking a clear winner will surely anger someone from one of these places. Both of these cities have phenomenal cuisine that represents everything travelers love about Andalusia.

First off, I want to make it clear that neither Seville nor Granada has explicitly better food. In fact, I genuinely want to return to both of these cities for no other reason than to eat. Of course, I’ll squeeze in other tourist activities, but food is my primary motivation.

However, despite each city having delicious cuisine, that doesn’t mean they’re equal. Both cities might be in Andalusia, and both are known for a culture of tapas, but there are significant differences that can tip the scales in one direction for hungry travelers.

Granada is known for tapas. Eating tapas in Granada is not just about filling your belly. It is an experience. There are few instances where tourists dine with locals in an authentic environment like the tapas scene in Granada.

busy dark bar local in Granada

It doesn’t matter whether a restaurant in Granada is popular with tourists. That’s not enough to scare locals away. Locals dominate the clientele at good tapas hotspots, and tourists are welcome to join.

The best part of the lively tapas culture in Granada is that it’s free. Patrons pay for a drink and, moments later, a plate of food comes out. In the less-touristic places, the small plates are bigger and better.

Eating in Seville is every bit as enjoyable as in Granada. Tapas in Seville are a big deal, too, though slightly different than Granada. For starters, they aren’t free, but tapas in Seville are cheap and usually larger portions.

Pringa serranito tapas Sevilla

As a larger city, there are more options for eating in Seville. And the city has several notable local specialties. However, with its larger size and greater number of tourists, there are also a lot of tourist restaurants crowding the plate in Seville.

Granada vs. Seville in terms of food is a draw. There may be no clear winner, but there is, more importantly, no loser. Each city has delicious eats and a lively tapas scene.

Personally, I want to go back and eat in Granada more than Seville. Eating in Granada is one of my all-time favorite travel experiences. That being said, I would probably head to Seville shortly after a few days of eating in Granada.

Granada or Seville – Which City is More Touristy?

The unfortunate truth is that both Seville and Granada are very touristic cities. Spain, in general, is a popular destination for tourists with Andalusia being one of the more popular regions within the country.

The deep history of these cities means that there are a lot of attractions. A lot of tourist attractions means, obviously, a lot of tourists.

Tourist crowds in Seville Spain

The center of Seville may be incredibly lovely, but it is extremely touristic. Between the charm and beauty are tour groups, souvenir shops and thousands upon thousands of tourists sprawling out from the center.

Tourism in Granada is more concentrated. The Alhambra’s position perched atop a hill surrounded by a park means that other tourist activities are down below in the city itself. Some of these streets are flooded with tourists, but the “tourist sprawl” in Granada is significantly more contained.

Tourist street in Granada with souvenir shops and trinkets

The larger size of Seville makes it easy to lose crowds and escape touristy scenes. Large chunks of the city are especially touristy, though. Granada may have some serious tourist business, but the city is less touristy than Seville.

Keep in mind, though, that comparing Granada versus Seville in regard to which city is more touristic is a bleary comparison. It is easy enough to escape tourist crowds in each city, but each also has more than its fair share of visitors.

Which City is Better for Wandering

Words like “beautiful” and “charming” and “picturesque” are more commonly associated with Seville than Granada. Part of this is due to the fact that the buildings are a little more colorful. Another reason is simply the greater volume of tourists visiting Seville.

Seville is not inherently more attractive than Granada. The two cities are just different. Though they are both in Andalusia, the differences of these two cities are significant. Granada is hilly and nestled next to a mountain range, whereas Seville is mostly flat. Both of these cities are pretty and places where it’s difficult for tourists to put the camera down.

So which city is better for a casual stroll of getting lost and wandering around?

Narrow empty street in Seville Spain

Seville is larger, so it has that going for it. It is also one of those cities where you’ll turn a corner and, seemingly out of nowhere, there is a postcard scene or striking piece of architecture. Seville’s popularity also means more crowds.

Granada is hilly, meaning that there are a lot of unique views. The hills also deter lazy travelers. Aside from the most popular viewpoints, most are not crowded. The central, popular area of Granada is beautiful but busy. The farther you wander from Alhambra, the less likely it is that you’ll see many other tourists.

Viewpoint in Granada looking down and out over the city

Granada is an ideal city for aimless wandering, but Seville has the edge. Ultimately, it comes down to size. Seville is larger, and most tourists congregate in and around the center of the city.

Wandering around Seville is a treat. Whether it’s on the tiny side streets near the center or across the river in Triana, the labyrinthine nature of the city makes it the perfect place to get lost and lose the crowds.

Travel Costs – Is Granada or Seville Cheaper?

Depending on the season, Spain can be a fairly cheap travel destination. The weather dictates a lot of the costs. Rainy, colder times of year stifle demand for the most part. The exception is something like holidays or festivals. These can cause demand (and prices) to skyrocket regardless of weather.

Granada vs. Seville in terms of travel costs is pretty clear: Granada is cheaper. The big city effect, the same factor that influences popularity and food, also causes Sevilla to be slightly more expensive.

Compared to Granada, costs in Seville are not significantly higher. Food, which can be a hefty part of my budget, is slightly more expensive. Beer is clearly more expensive, though still pretty cheap.

All of the popular tourist attractions in Seville also add up. The Alhambra is more expensive than any of these, but there are more places of interest with admission fees in Seville.

Hotels can be as expensive as you want them to be. There are more pricey hotels in Seville, but there are plenty of affordable options, too. As far as hostels go, prices are similar, but Seville has more options.

Overall, Granada is cheaper. But prices in Sevilla are not so high that you’ll want to avoid the city or shorten your stay.

Transportation – Better in Granada or Seville?

Cities in Spain typically have good public transportation. Not all cities are the same, and if ease of getting around is a concern for your visit, consider the quality of public transportation in Granada versus Seville:

Intra-city Transportation

Both Sevilla and Granada are walkable cities. Most of the top tourist attractions are centrally located and easy to reach on foot.

Granada has a greater change in elevation than Sevilla. Its location at the foothills of the Sierra Nevada mountains means portions of the city contain fairly steep hills. With a lot of narrow streets, public transport is limited reaching some of these areas.

The bus system in Granada is adequate enough for tourists, but there isn’t really much need to use it. Granada has a light rail network that is severely limited and only useful if you’re arriving at the bus station.

Seville is pretty much flat. Walking in the city is the simplest way to get around. The exception would be in the high heat of Summer, during which time Sevilla is notoriously hot.

Guadalquivir River in Sevilla

Otherwise, Seville is one of the most bike-friendly cities in Spain, and it has the best public transportation network in Andalusia. This includes trams in the city center, a metro system and an extensive bus network.

Inter-city Transportation

The biggest difference in transportation for Granada vs. Seville is the regional and national transportation network. Seville is the clear leader in this category.

Granada has a train station that is all but useless to tourists. Trains from Granada do not connect to any other major cities. Forget what the internet says, there is not a direct train from Granada to Seville, Cordoba, Malaga or Madrid. Not even the slower “media distance” train.

Front exterior of the Granada Spain Train Station

To reach Seville by train from Granada, you have to first take an hour-long bus to Antequera. In my case, I had to take a bus from Granada to Antequera, a second bus to Osuna and finally a train to Seville.

It’s not difficult to get around Spain from Granada, but the schedule is unreliable and inconsistent. It is much easier (and faster) to travel by bus, such as ALSA, from Granada to reach Seville or other cities in Andalusia.

Seville has similar regional bus connections as Granada, so there is minimal difference in that transportation option. Seville’s Santa Justa train station can transport travelers across Spain. It has several high-speed, long-distance routes.  These tend to be expensive but save a lot of travel time.

Should you want to rent a car and drive yourself, a road trip in Andalusia is also an excellent way to see the region. The freedom to get around and go for a hike or stop at any of the alluring villages or beaches is tempting to say to the least.

Air Transportation

Granada and Seville both have international airports. The destinations served and capacity of the airports are another big difference between the two cities.

Granada has an airport about 20 minutes west of the city. The airport is essentially good for flying to Madrid and a few other cities in Western Europe.

Seville Airport (Aeropuerto de Sevilla) has a much larger operation than Granada. Aeropuerto de Sevilla is one of Spain’s busiest airports and has regular flights to several Spanish cities and dozens of cities in Europe.

In regards to transportation, Seville is the clear winner vs. Granada. The city is flat, bike-friendly and has excellent ground and air connections to Spain and Western Europe. Granada isn’t remote by any stretch, but it is a little more tedious getting to/from the smaller city.


Granada or Seville, Who Wins?

The comparison of Granada vs. Seville is a difficult competition to judge. Both cities have positives. Seville is easier to reach and has more specifically notable attractions. Granada is smaller, has better tapas and has a beautiful backdrop of mountains.

On the surface, Seville seems like it would be the clear winner. It has everything a tourist looks for in a travel destination – food, history, culture, pretty sights – and that’s why it is so popular.

View of Seville from atop the Metropol Parasol setas de sevilla

Granada has the intangibles, though. In addition to being an aesthetically pleasing city, notable attractions and having great food, there’s something about the city that stands out. Maybe it’s the feeling that local life not only exists in the tourist bubble – it thrives. Tourism and local life coexisting in this manner is a rarity in the 21st century.

Neither Seville or Granada is the better city to visit. They’re both great, but I do have a preference.

Granada is one of my favorite cities in the world. My visit was supposed to be two or three days and I stayed for over a week. I almost rented an apartment to stay for a month, but prior commitments, life and all that got in the way.

Residents walking up a steep staircase on a hill in Granada Old City

I also loved Seville. Despite its more-touristic nature, Sevilla is a beautiful, lively city. It has phenomenal food, too, but there’s just something extra special about Granada.

Filed Under: City Guides, Lagniappe

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