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A Guide to Laos’ Four Thousand Islands: Time to Chill – Updated June 2019

Laos is a country known more for its darker days of history than as a travel destination. Landlocked in Southeast Asia, much of the nation is rugged, remote and lacking in lavish luxury. That being said, there are still plenty of reasons to visit the Lao People’s Democratic Republic.

Si Phan Don, more commonly known as Four Thousand Islands, is an archipelago in the Mekong River in Southern Laos. Most of the islands of Si Phan Don are either inaccessible or reachable only by small boat. [Read more…] about A Guide to Laos’ Four Thousand Islands: Time to Chill

Traveling Vietnam during Tet can be quite the experience. Tet is the biggest holiday of the year in Vietnam. It is the celebration of the Lunar New Year and the coming of Spring, sending the country into a fit of chaos and celebration. Typically falling sometime in January or February, the people of Vietnam travel from across the country back to their hometowns to celebrate Tet and spend time with family.

It is a celebration of fun, but also a serious preparation for the new year. The longstanding traditions are apparent everywhere with decorations, altars and burning pots of paper? Yes, you will see large stock pots of paper burning on the streets of cities and towns alike. It is a bit annoying and not so fun to huff the smoke, but it is Vietnam. You do not come here for crisp, clean air.

There is a lot to consider before traveling in/to/through Vietnam during Tet. The actual New Year’s Day may only be a single day, but the effects are noticeable for 5-10 days before and after. Here are some important things to note for travel in Vietnam during Tet:

Transportation in Vietnam During Tet

The safest way for foreigners to travel through Vietnam is via bus or train. Trains can be more scenic and comfortable, but at some point, you will have to take a bus if you venture out of the larger cities. And you should do this!

The same should be said for Tet. Again, the best way to get around is bus or train. But! As mentioned above, the people of Vietnam travel across the country themselves during Tet. And seeing as there are about 100 million people from Hanoi to Ho Chi Minh City in this long, narrow country, the buses and trains will have many more passengers than any normal day the rest of the year.

Seriously, a lot more people. Do not be surprised to find yourself on a jam-packed, oversold bus for hours, with people squeezing on the floor for any space available. The next thing you know, you might have a strange baby on your lap! Safety on the roads is not exactly priority #1 in Southeast Asia; so if you want a comfy and cozy ride, stay home or pay through the nose.

 

The main point of noting the transportation differences when traveling though Vietnam during Tet are the inflated costs. The tourist buses are more expensive than the local buses to begin with, and during the New Year’s chaos, you can expect prices to be double or worse. The prices are still cheaper than buses in most western nations, but if you are trying to penny-pinch your way up/down the country, this time of year will make that harder.

You can always opt for the local buses, but these already overcrowded buses will now be miserably full.

An example of the inflated prices is the overnight sleeper bus from Hoi An to Da Lat. This bus will normally cost you $8-15 USD; however, during Tet, expect the tab to be $30 and up. The earlier you book, the better, but it will be difficult to stick to that airtight budget during this time.

Accommodation in Vietnam During Tet

The same goes for lodging. As a solo traveler, choosing dorms in a hostel or homestay is almost always the cheapest route. When traveling in Vietnam during Tet, this is still true, but be prepared to pay anywhere from an dollar or two to double the rate each night.

The tough part about dealing with accommodation in travel to Vietnam during Tet is not surging prices, but simply finding a vacancy. Hotels are businesses too, often family-owned, and many will shut their doors for a week or more.

There are plenty of stories from travelers who book accommodation early, only to arrive and find their hotel locked and dark. During a time when vacancies are harder to come by, this can put you in a stressful bind. The last thing anyone wants is to feel stranded in the sweltering heat, bags aplenty, with nowhere to go.

Book your accommodation early and make contact with the property to ensure you won’t be left out on the curb.

Businesses/Shopping During Tet

While many hotels and hostels shut their doors for the holiday, even more businesses close down. During Tet, family and celebration is more important than tourist dollars – it is a headscratcher, but respectable.

The UNESCO-designated city of Hoi An, totally dependent on tourists who come to relax and get that new personally tailored wardrobe from scratch, is no different. People come across the world to get a set of clothes or handmade leather goods for pennies on the dollar for what you would pay for the same quality elsewhere. However, during Tet, most of these tailors close as well. If you want that suit, you had better come early or stick around after the holidays. It is not about the money at this time, so be patient. They will get to you when they get to you.

 

Even restaurants shut their doors, leaving the hungry, confused tourists scratching their heads, wandering in search of an open option. Those that do remain open, especially in heavily touristy areas, may add a surcharge to your total bill. 

Finding a hostel/hotel that is open and serves food might be a wise decision for peace of mind. 

One business that will probably be open is the local mini-mart. Everyone needs booze and party supplies so you may still have that option. However, playing it safe would be best. Stock up on Vietnamese beer, seaweed potato chips, a $2 bottle of local rum and wait for the fun to begin.

Stay in One Place

The most important thing you should note about traveling Vietnam during Tet is to stay in one place. It is not impossible to get around, but your life will be considerably easier and less stressful if you don’t wander too far. You can save money avoiding price surges, avoid headaches from trying to find last-minute lodging, sit back, relax and enjoy the celebrations.

Once you find a place you enjoy or think will suit you, arrive a couple of days before Tet and stick around for 3-4 days after. This can be a major chunk of time for most trips to Vietnam, but if you are on a budget, take this chance to really get to know this one place and catch your breath. Travel is exhausting and Tet is the perfect excuse to take a break in Vietnam. And party.

Hoi An is a wonderful place to celebrate, with tourists and locals ringing in the New Year and partying side-by-side into the wee hours of the morning. Bigger cities are also known for hosting massive celebrations, so take your pick!

If you are lucky enough to receive an invitation to join a local family or group for their celebrations, DO NOT pass it up. You will see a more authentic and localized celebration, and the holiday foods cooked in homes are not commonly found in restaurants. Oh, and it’s really good.

Why You Should Travel Vietnam During Tet

Tet seems like a stressful time to be traveling in Vietnam. Yes, this is true. But it is a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to see an entire nation buzzing around with excitement and pride. The Vietnamese flags are not in short supply, waving from every house and shop across the country.

Mandarin trees are present in every building. Apparently, you have to have one (strangely you do not see many people eating the mandarins, though), and it is debatable whether or not there are more mandarin trees in homes and shops or on the back of motorbikes. The floral displays are intricate and beautiful, adding even more color to an already radiant country.

 

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Traveling in Vietnam during Tet is an exciting time to be in the country. Any opportunity to go abroad and take part in a local festival, event or holiday should be taken. You get a front row seat for fun and culture. Do not hesitate on buying that ticket to Vietnam. Go ahead and proceed to checkout, but make sure you budget a few extra bucks per day and pack plenty of patience!

The temples of Angkor, more commonly referred to as Angkor Wat, are the number one destination for tourists visiting Cambodia. No trip to this Southeast Asian country is complete without exploring the ancient temple complex.

In reality, Angkor Wat (Wat means temple) refers to a single temple in the center of the ancient Khmer empire. Naturally so, it is the biggest and most majestic stack of stones in the area. But there is more to the temples of Angkor than the flagship temple. And before you go, there is more to know.

Here are 11 things you need to know for your visit to the Temples of Angkor:

1. How to get to Siem Reap

Siem Reap, the gateway to the temples of Angkor, is the third largest city in Cambodia and just a few miles away. If you have no intention of visiting anywhere else in the country, you can fly in to Siem Reap. This would surely be the easiest option, but not necessarily the cheapest.

If you are traveling through Cambodia (this is what you should be doing) you can take a minibus nearly anywhere for just a few dollars – US Dollars are accepted, and often preferred, in Cambodia, so bring your greenbacks!

Getting to Siem Reap from Phnom Penh:

There are several minibuses departing throughout the day from various points. They are all more or less the same – bumpy, crowded and lacking in luxury. If you are looking for luxury, go back to the Four Seasons. The minibus is the best way to go. It is cheap – about $10-12 per person – for a 6-8 hour ride. It stops a few times and you can see the Cambodian countryside along the way.

Getting to Siem Reap from Battambang:

The minibus from Battambang takes a few hours to go a short distance. It should not cost you more than $8 per person. This is a good option for many people, as a stop in Battambang gives you a chance to see another city and explore a less-crowded, nearly tourist-free Cambodian city. It is worth a day or two to explore the area.

There is also a ferry from Battambang. However, it is considerably more expensive (more than $25pp), slower and unreliable. In theory, it operates when the river is high enough, but this is not always the case. Don’t count on it.

Do not take the night bus. While you may be riding in fear on Cambodian roads at any time of day, the night buses do not have the best record for safety lately. It is not worth trying to save a few bucks on accomodation to risk your safety.

2. How much does a visit to the Temples of Angkor cost?

Ticket prices to visit the Angkor Archaeological Park have risen in recent years. A few years ago, you could visit for about $20. However, prices are rising! Currently, foreigners can expect to pay $37 for a single day pass or $62 for three-day entry. Yes, it seems like a budget-buster for many backpackers, but this is a must-see for any visit to Cambodia. Budget accordingly before you plan the trip! Choose the three-day option. You cannot see it all in a single day and even if you only visit for two days, it will save you money.

Bring your passport to buy your tickets. This is not a tip. It is a requirement for ticket sales.

A tuk tuk (think motorcycle chariot without the glamour) is the best mode of transportation to visit the temples. Siem Reap is too far from the temples of Angkor to reach by foot, and forget about public transportation. Your tuk tuk driver will take you to buy your tickets (they are only sold at a single off-site location), and then drive you to each site.

Again, the complex is enormous. No, you cannot possibly walk. At times, there are miles between sites. You will get plenty of exercise walking around and climbing on the ruins.

Your tuk tuk should cost you $15-20 per day. This is the total price, not per person. So if you have 2-3 people in your party, well, I seriously hope you can do the math. Again, it might seem like this visit is getting expensive. It does add up, but this is a necessary evil of the visit and will make it considerably easier on you. Look at it this way, most of the money from your ticket is likely lining political pockets, so you are helping to support the local economy more when you hire a tuk tuk.

3. How Long Does it Take to Visit Angkor?

If you are in a time crunch, you can see a few main sights in a single day. However, as mentioned above, to adequately (not even thoroughly!) see the Angkor Wat and tour the other temples of Angkor, you need to allot at least two days for exploring. The area is massive and it just takes some time. If you have a third day, you should take advantage and see what you missed or go back to see your favorites again.

Sunrise and sunset are popular times to visit, so take this into consideration. See more below.

4. Eating at Angkor Wat

First, eat breakfast and bring a snack. But once you have arrived, a day exploring ancient ruins in the Southeast Asian heat will work up an appetite. There are places for snacks and drinks everywhere, but when you need something more substantial, try the tents near the parking area before the entrance to Angkor Wat (remember, Angkor Wat is a single site, not the whole place). These are cheaper and quicker than those right next to Angkor Wat. For $2-3 you can have a massive plate of super fresh deliciousness in front of you, fueling your exploration for the day. If you don’t know what to order, just ask your driver.

Oh, and beware of the spicy! In case of intense heat, order a beer. This is always a good idea.

5. Sunrise at Angkor Wat – The Truth

As mentioned above, sunrise is a popular time to visit the temples of Angkor. A quick google search of Angkor Wat will surely yield some breathtaking photos of a majestic sunrise looming behind the ancient architectural masterpiece. Don’t kid yourself, we all want that photo for ourselves.

Your tuk tuk driver will likely recommend you wake up and go for sunrise – and you should! The scene is certainly a peaceful and beautiful one.

However, the reality of the situation is that, despite the fact that you woke up at 4 AM, you will not find a serene scene to yourself. You will be accompanied by thousands, yes thousands, of other tourists and wannabe National Geographic photographers. There will be tripods set up everywhere, people toting thousands of dollars worth of equipment and no shortage of local vendors either. Your romanticized scene of waking up with Angkor Wat is just that – romanticized.

This is not to say you should avoid arriving before sunrise. You can still manage to snap a few pics that will surely have your Instagram followers reeling over the mysticism and whatever bullshit Thoreau quote you choose. Just know beforehand, the reality of sunrise at Angkor Wat is not what we have been led to believe.

The best part about arriving before sunrise to the complex is avoiding the masses. I know. I just said that there will be thousands of others there already. But they will mostly be behind their lenses and tripods. Your advantage lies in being one of the first people inside the temple when the gates open.

Snap a couple pics of the pre-dawn glow, then head over to the gate. As soon as the gate opens, scurry up and get a couple photos of the front without people. Then go inside and explore. For the first 30-60 minutes, there will be relatively few people inside to spoil your exploring (and your photos). If you wish, queue up in the center to climb to the top before the line extends to outrageous lengths.

Another advantage of your early arrival is reaching the other temples before the hordes of tour buses arrive. So don’t waste too much time seeing Angkor Wat, maybe an hour after sunrise, then quickly head to the other temples to make the most of your exploring.

7. Go Backwards!

Most tuk tuks, guides and groups take the same route through the temple complex. It is basically a loop. The result is that you arrive at each area with loads of other people. When your driver suggests a plan, ask if you can go backwards and see the last one first.

Specifically, the “Tomb Raider Temple” as it is known from its feature in said film, will be so annoyingly crowded that you have to wait in lines to take pictures of certain corners, walls and trees. Make this an early stop to avoid the masses.

Another good starting point would be to Angkor Thom. The Bayon Temple, at the center of this site, is smaller than Angkor Wat, but more well-preserved in some respects. It is a maze and truly a joy to wander, but the crowds gather here soon as well.

7. Don’t Ride the Elephants at Angkor Wat

[Update]: As of 2019, elephant-riding at Angkor Wat has been banned. 

As you are walking around some of the sites, you may be startled as you look up to see a massive elephant trudging down the road. They are not behind any wall, cage or enclosure. These beasts will have many of us stop dead in our tracks to stare in awe. Atop the elephants is a seat for tourists. At first thought, it seems like such an incredible experience. To ride an elephant, a revered and sacred animal across much of Southeast Asia, through an ancient temple complex… What an experience! Right?

Unfortunately, no. As much as many people would like to think it is a fun and harmless activity, these elephants are treated horribly. They are not trained. They are beaten, tortured and starved into submission. So much so that Southeast Asia is seeing a huge trend going from elephant riding to elephant sanctuaries. This isn’t just some meritless PETA fluff. It is true. Perhaps somewhere there is a place that has learned to magically train elephants without harm. If so, it is a secret.

Do not support the riding of elephants.

8. Beware of the Monkeys!

In keeping with the topic of wildlife, you will inevitably see some monkeys (or macaques or whatever they are) wandering around the temples. The great scene of ruined temples in the jungle that are now home to monkeys, they appear cute and photogenic. They are even approachable. Do not be fooled. These bastards are vicious.

In an instant, these monkeys will turn from cuddly to aggressive. They aren’t really afraid of you and will harass and attack you if you let them. Don’t encourage them or (willingly) feed them. And whenever you see them, hold on to your stuff. Any loose item of food, sunglasses or camera sitting idle becomes a toy to be stolen or destroyed. Remember they are wild animals and malicious little tricksters at best.

9. Bargain Shopping at Angkor Wat

As is the case with many markets or shops catering to tourists around the world, you will be hounded by people trying to sell you stuff. From figurines to shirts to paintings, they sell it all. At Angkor, these people can be especially aggressive. The moment you think you are thirsty, they can sense it and will be on you like flies. There are a few keys to remember when purchasing at Angkor.

Don’t act interested. If you seem inclined to purchase a souvenir, you will be bombarded by saleswomen. And, all of a sudden, instead of a single t-shirt, you’ve got a whole new wardrobe of cheap crap.

Walk away. If you are annoyed by the tactics, just leave. Don’t help perpetuate the harassing behavior. As soon as it approaches overwhelming, get out of there. The feeling of bombardment can soon turn to frustration and anger, and you do not want your adventurous spirit of exploration to be dampened by overzealous shopkeepers.

From a westerner’s perspective, they might actually get more business if they were patient and calmer. Many tourists are deterred from this type of sales. But do not expect things to be any different for your visit. 

Lastly, make sure to go low when bargaining. Yes, the prices already seem very cheap, but they are not offering you a fair price. Many of the booths at the Angkor Temple Complex are actually cheaper than stores in Siem Reap (which tells you how overpriced those markets are), so it can be a good place to pick up a souvenir t-shirt, scarf or cheap whatever.

Even so, start really low in the bidding and ignore the sob stories. Nearly all of the salespeople will tell you a sad story. Do not buy into it. They know how to tug at the heartstrings of tourists. If they claim to lose money in a sale, it is not true. Remember, millions of people visit this place every year. Don’t feel guilty about walking away or getting (what you think) is a steal.

10. What to Wear at Angkor Wat

This is one of the most important things to consider for your visit to the temples of Angkor. This is not a suggestion. There are strict rules about attire for visiting almost all of the sites in the area. The reason is, despite the temples of Angkor being an historical and archaeological attraction, they are temples. This is still very much a religious and holy site for many people.

Shoulders must be covered and long pants must be worn. There are really no exceptions. If you see people not dressed this way, they must have slipped through the cracks and must be disrespectful pricks. Don’t be that person.

Now that we have established that you must dress appropriately, consider the weather. This is in the jungle, where most of the year it is oppressively hot and humid. Perhaps this isn’t the best day to show off your new outfit, no matter how cute you think you are, if it is going to send you into heat stroke. Wear light-colored, loose-fitting clothing. Bring a towel. And bringing a change of clothes might not be a terrible idea either. You will be sweaty.

11. What to Expect When Visiting Angkor

The Temples of Angkor is one of the most fantastic ancient sites you can visit today. Once forgotten and then inaccessible, today this place is on every travel radar and easier to reach than ever before.

However, there are some important things to remember to help you know what to expect.

As mentioned above, it is hot and you should prepare for that physically and mentally. Take the two or three days if you can and go easy so you don’t overdo it and wear yourself out too quickly. Drink plenty of water.

Also mentioned above, this ancient wonder was once forgotten and inaccessible. That is no longer the case. That mystical place from the Ghost Channel – I mean, Travel Channel – and thousands of internet photos is not really that place anymore. The scene of a mysterious temple lost in the jungle is no more. Prepare yourself for being with thousands of other people. Yes, there are ways to limit interruption from crowds, but you will not be wandering alone.

Let this serve as a warning, not a deterrent. Rather than be disappointed by the crowds, expect, manage and prepare to see Angkor Wat and the other temples of Angkor in the best possible way that it is today. There’s no way to avoid the crowds at Angkor Wat in the twenty-first century.

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Use the tips here and elsewhere to help ensure that you have the best possible experience. Angkor Wat and the other temples around should be on every travel bucket list. Hopefully this helps when it comes time to check it off.

Updated: 2020 – Brussels, Belgium is a top travel destination for visitors to Europe, from backpackers and tourists to businessman and politicians. Most of the guides and lists for the city are redundant, but that doesn’t mean there are plenty of good things to do during your visit.

I’m not shy when it comes to my feelings towards Brussels. Belgium is one of my favorite travel destinations in the world, but Brussels is not and I rarely felt comfortable in my two visits to the city. Nevertheless, the capital of the European Union is still worth a visit (even I would return!) and many people love their time spent here. Here are my recommendations for your visit:

Delirium Cafe – Beervana

When I think of Belgium, I think of great beer. When I think of great beer, I think of Belgium. The small country is home to more breweries per capita than any other country in the world, and while I’ve only tried a few (hundred) Belgian varieties, I don’t think I’ve come across a single brew that was anything less than heavenly.

The Delirium Cafe in the center of Brussels is tucked down a little street and is completely unassuming at first glance. The day before I first visited, I was looking for the Jeanneke Pis statue and walked right past the entrance and did not notice.

When I was made aware of this legendary bar, it became priority #1 on the agenda. This one institution offers thousands of beers from all over the world, and hundreds of Belgian options that you’ll never see outside the country.

 

There is a menu, a beer list, for what they offer, and it has over one hundred pages of nothing but beer! The bar has multiple floors, each with a different vibe going on. At times it can be very busy, but I was lucky to always find a seat.

All of the other patrons were very friendly and happy to share a table with you. I first visited the Delirium Cafe three years ago, and I have friends I still keep up with today from that first visit. If you love beer and are planning to travel to Belgium, this bar in Brussels should be at the top of your list. Despite my feelings toward the city, I would travel to Brussels again for this reason alone – to visit the Delirium Cafe.

Grand Place – Historic City Center

The Grand Place is the center of history and tourism in Brussels. I try to avoid discussing the most popular tourist sites in any destination, the reason being that these places have already been covered thousands of times by thousands of people. However, the Grand Place in the center of Brussels, is too spectacular to skip. The architecture is unique to this part of the world and truly as a “wow” factor.

The buildings are hundreds of years old and will have you staring in awe, speechless, wondering how they lasted so long as you try to understand them. There are expensive places to eat and tour around here, but personally, I would suggest taking some pictures and finding a spot to sit, take it all in and people-watch. Except for the occasional waffle stand, the dining options in the area are extremely expensive.

While the Grand Place is overrun with tourists during the day, it is a different story after dusk. Come back at night, the later the better, for a different view of this beautiful square. The buildings are glowing and the facades highlighted in a now-quiet place. There’s a good chance you’ll even have the whole square to yourself.

Brasserie Cantillon Brewery

I stumbled upon Cantillon Brewery in Brussels as I was wandering around with a friend. Thinking it might be nice to visit a brewery, we went inside and came to find they have a tour and pseudo-museum where you can see their process, wander through lofts of dusty old barrels aging (for years) the delicious nectar and, best of all, taste the final product.

Much to my surprise, the place is famous for its lambic beers, unique to Belgium. The tour was interesting, seeing a small family operation still creating their masterpiece in essentially the same manner they used over a hundred years ago. Most Belgian beer is brewed the right way, unlike mega brewers who take shortcuts to maximize profits, forsaking quality of product. Zero shortcuts are taken at Cantillon Brewery, and I sampled some of the finest sour beers in the world.

Even today, as I write from the craft beer capital of the world (Portland, Oregon, USA), I dream of sipping one of these sour treats again, straight from the source. Belgian beer, in my not-so-humble opinion, is the absolute best.

The Best Museum in Brussels – Musical Instruments Museum

There are plenty of museums in Brussels, wonderful museums, and several are more popular than the Musical Instruments Museum. While others deserve a visit as well, my first choice is the Musical Instruments Museum.

If there is another collection of instruments this vast or unique, I am not aware of it. The self-guided tour is incredibly informative with audio samples for many of the instruments, which is  very helpful. Half of the time it is difficult to determine what the strange instrument sounds like or what it even does.

 

The instruments range from familiar ones we see and hear often to ancient pieces from far-away, remote places. Works of art fit for the Louvre, cultural icons, historical pieces with a story and fancy instruments for a palace, this museum has it all. If you are a music lover, history buff, art fanatic or (especially) a musician, the Musical Instruments Museum is a MUST for any trip to Brussels.

Best View in Brussels – National Basilica of the Sacred Heart

Also known as Koekelberg Basilica, this is the largest church in Belgium and one of the largest in the world – larger than the Hagia Sophia (Istanbul), St. Paul’s (London) and Notre Dame (Paris), to name a few.

While it’s not very old, and the interior is not as dramatic as other, more famous churches, Koekelberg Basilica is still worthy of a visit. The interior is massive and dark, like being inside a mountain. I visited on a weekday and saw only one or two other people, giving me a feeling of being tiny and alone, lending to this sanctuary also being a great place for quiet reflection.

I suggest walking to the area. As most visitors do not stray far from the Grand Place, the long walk to the Basilica is not only good exercise, you see a totally different side of Brussels in these neighborhoods. By far, the BEST part about a visit to this Basilica is the panoramic view from the top. The structure is visible from many places across the city, but once you reach the top, you are treated to a brilliant view across the city. If for no other reason, visit Koekelberg Basilica for the view.

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The Best of Brussels, Belgium

Brussels is more than the capital of the European Union. It’s more than the capital of Belgium. Brussels is one of the world’s best cities.

Stunning architecture draws thousands of visitors each day. Museums and history educate and entertain tourists. The best beer in the world keeps visitors coming back to Brussels. The city is great for wanderers and is even backpacker friendly.

There are hundreds of reasons to travel to Belgium, and Brussels may not be so pretty away from the tourist sprawl; but no trip to the country is complete without visiting the best parts of the Belgian capital.