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City Guides

Joseph, Oregon Travel Guide

September 30, 2020 By Hangry Backpacker 6 Comments

The small town of Joseph is an oddity among Oregon travel destinations. In Wallowa County, in the northeast corner of Oregon, the tiny town of Joseph sits roughly 4000 feet above sea-level and attracts tourists with a wide variety of interests.

Statue of Chief Joseph on Main Street in Joseph Oregon

With a little over 1000 people, Joseph is the second-largest “city” in Wallowa County. The large, rural county (about 7,000 people in an area larger than Delaware) is out of the minds of most Oregonians and unknown to most tourists. The attraction of Joseph and the surrounding area is the exception.

Despite being tiny and remote, there is a lot going on in Joseph. Local history is tied to the Nez Perce tribe (the city is named after Chief Joseph) and Oregon’s early history. The Wallowa Mountains are one of Oregon’s best natural wonders. And tourism is the backbone of the economy in Joseph, thanks not only to the natural beauty, but also a burgeoning art scene and a remarkably well-preserved old town.

What to Do in Joseph, Oregon

What to do in Joseph depends on your interests. There are several reasons to spend a day or so enjoying the town itself, and there are even more reasons to explore the surrounding area.

Shopping

Joseph has a thriving art scene. There are a surprising number of galleries selling artwork of all kinds. Bronzework is a particular local speciality. There are several galleries showcasing (and selling) curious bronze pieces and sculptures, and there are prominent bronze sculptures along the street too.

Aside from local art, like many older small towns, Joseph has plenty of shops full of antiques and old junk. The artsy nature of the town sees these various trinket shops laid out in an appealing presentation to lure in those who enjoy sifting through peculiar secondhand stuff.

gift shop gallery junk Joseph Oregon

On the less expensive end of the shopping spectrum, Joseph has a few souvenir shops that sell local goods of the cheaper, more lighthearted variety. For instance, Sasquatch (Bigfoot) is prominently featured on every souvenir imaginable.

Sasquatch statue in Joseph Oregon gift shop

With the exception of the occasional flea market, I kind of hate shopping. Joseph has a lot of cool stuff, though, and it’s one of those endearing small towns that is still dominated by local businesses. While I may not find joy in gingerly stepping through secondhand trinket shops – I’m petrified of the whole “if you break it, you buy it” mantra of these overpriced, cluttered spaces – I can get behind supporting local business.

Wallowa Lake

The picturesque Wallowa Lake sits on the southern edge of Joseph. With a stunning backdrop of the Oregon Alps shielding the lake from the south and west, Wallowa Lake is a major tourist draw in Northeast Oregon.

There is a public beach and boat launch on the north end of the lake, in Joseph. Kayaks, paddleboards and glass-bottom boats are available for rent here if you want to enjoy some time on the water.

Wildflowers at Wallowa Lake and the Oregon Alps in Joseph Oregon

On the south shore is Wallowa Lake State Park. This state park has campsites and cabins for rent, though these are in high demand during Summer months. There is also a marina, gift shops, food and another area for swimming.

The lake is sourced by the Wallowa River, which itself is largely sourced from snowmelt in the surrounding mountains. In other words, the water in Wallowa Lake is quite cold. Even on the warmest of Summer days, the lake isn’t ideal for swimming. Some people can handle a little cold water, but I can’t imagine spending very long in the chilly lake. Thankfully, it is a wonderful place to enjoy the scenery on a sunny day.

Wallowa Lake Tramway – Mount Howard

Open from late-Spring to early-Fall, the Wallowa Lake Tramway is a fun, unique experience a few minutes outside of Joseph, Oregon. The changing views from top to bottom are incredible, as riders are taken from mountain forests up to the peak of Mount Howard and an alpine environment.

Wallowa Lake Tram station

Operating for about 50 years, the Wallowa Lake tram is surprisingly fun. Not only are the views unforgettable, the shaky ride will challenge acrophobics and weak-stomached individuals. But don’t worry. The tram is safe and regularly inspected.

The Wallowa Lake Tram climbs 3700 feet (vertically) and takes about 20 minutes. The only downside to taking the easy way to the summit of Mount Howard is the price. It costs $36 per adult (up and down), but the view at the top is worth every penny. There is a small cafe at the top, which would certainly be an excellent place for a drink with a view, but the prices here are as steep as the tram ride.

View of Wallowa Mountains from summit of Mount Howard in Oregon

Mount Howard isn’t the highest peak in the Wallowa Mountains (Oregon Alps), but it is the ideal setting for the best view of the range. From the peak, the highest snow-capped peaks of the Wallowas are visible to the west and south, and the Seven Devils Mountains in Idaho are visible dozens of miles away to the east.

There is probably a trail for hiking to the summit of Mount Howard, but it would be an incredibly difficult trek and a long day. Take the tram and enjoy an easy day in nature with unbeatable views.

**Note: Joseph, Oregon is already 4000+ feet above sea-level. The tram climbs nearly 4000 feet more. Those not accustomed to higher elevation should take it slow.

Eagle Cap Wilderness

The Eagle Cap Wilderness is one of the wildest, most untouched places in Oregon, which is already a largely-unspoiled state. It is popular with backpackers (the outdoorsy, nature type of backpacking) for serious backcountry treks and hiking. As the only town near the area, Joseph is the natural start/end point for backpackers.

Eagle Cap Wilderness Wallowa Mountains

The Eagle Cap Wilderness is remote and rugged. The area is home to an abundance of wildlife hiding in the mountains including rams, cougars, black bears, elk and even Oregon’s small (but growing!) moose population.

At more than 500 square miles, the Eagle Cap Wilderness is not only the largest protected natural area in Oregon. The rugged terrain and remote location mean that the area is also far less busy than other popular hiking/trekking areas of the state.

Wallowa County Barn Tour

Not every tourist has the time or desire to get lost in the wild for days on end. For a much more comfortable and easier exploration of Joseph and the surrounding rural area, the Wallowa County Barn Tour is a self-guided driving tour of historic and picturesque barns in the county.

There’s something appealing about lonely old barns in tranquil settings. The Wallowa County Barn Tour makes it easy to track these scenes, though getting lost on the tiny backroads in the sparsely-populated, rural counties of the American West is even easier.

Joseph is home to several stops on the Wallowa County Barn Tour, perfect for those who don’t want to stray too far from the road and get lost in middle-of-nowhere Eastern Oregon.

SIngle barn on the Wallowa County Historic Barn Tour Oregon

A driving tour of barns may not appeal to many travel tastes, but Joseph is in a part of the country dominated by agriculture. These barns are more than photogenic relics of local history. The fact that most of Northeast Oregon is agriculture or timberland, if not altogether empty, means that a tour like this is an excellent way to explore the culture and really get off the tourist trail. It’s the perfect way to see a side of the United States that too few travelers, American or otherwise, ever witness.

If you’re only interested in rustic barns without the rural America part, that’s okay, too. Several of these historic barns are located in and around the town of Joseph.

Where to Eat in Joseph, Oregon

Joseph, Oregon isn’t known as a hotspot for food-focused travel. As stated, the surrounding natural beauty and the town itself are the primary draws. Fortunately for tourists in Joseph, this little town punches above its class when it comes to food.

Roast pork sandwich on ciabatta bread with peppers and sweet potato fries

Thanks to tourism and the artsy nature of Joseph, there are far more dining options in town than comparable cities. And these aren’t restricted to diners or small town cafes (which, by the way, I love and make places like nearby-ish Baker City a surprisingly enjoyable place to eat).

Joseph has several notable restaurants, ranging from brick-oven pizza to gourmet chocolates. When it’s time to eat, start here:

  • Old Town Cafe – breakfast, brunch and coffee
  • Gold Room – wood-fired, brick-oven pizza. I mean, what more do you need to know?
  • Arrowhead Chocolates – gourmet chocolate shop (honestly, I hate chocolate, but my girlfriend loved this place for the quality and low prices, an usual feature of chocolate shops)
  • Embers Brewhouse – great patio, lots of beers, decent food
  • Stein Distillery – if you’re not driving…
  • Stubborn Mule – local recommendation #1
  • Cheyenne Cafe – local recommendation #2

The most popular restaurant in Joseph is Outlaw. While I did not dine here, it was explicitly not recommended to me by several locals. It has a very touristy look. Another popular restaurant, The Dog Spot, is highly-rated, but it goes against my rules – how can a restaurant make such a large variety of food and make it all well? That menu is a bit strange.

Travel & Transportation in Joseph, Oregon

The best and easiest way to travel to Joseph, Oregon is to make a stop on the Great American Road Trip. Frankly, Joseph and the rest of Wallowa County are out of the way and especially rural. Of course, that’s one of the great things about the area, but a car is pretty essential to reach this corner of Oregon.

The Wallowa Mountains have no roads traversing through the range. For instance, if you’re coming from Baker City, even though it’s only 50 miles away, the drive still takes about two hours as you have to drive completely around the mountains.

Other travel times to Joseph are roughly as follows:

  • From La Grande (OR) – 1.5 hours (where drivers exit Interstate-84 to Joseph)
  • From Pendleton (OR) – 2.5 hours  
  • From Boise, Idaho – 4 hours
  • From Portland – 5.5 hours

There is no public transportation in Joseph, but you don’t need it. The town is so small that everything is within reasonable walking distance.

There is some, albeit limited, public transportation to Joseph. During summer months, the Wallowa Link runs bus services from La Grande to Enterprise and Joseph. It’s cheap ($5 each way), and you can find more information on their website.

Greyhound runs buses from Portland to Boise with stops in Baker City and La Grande, so it would be possible to reach Joseph this way. That would make for an especially slow, unpleasant journey. Joseph is also only be in reach with the Wallowa Link in Summer, meaning travelers in other times of year will still need to rent a car.

Highway in the mountains of Northeast Oregon

Joseph is pretty much in the middle of nowhere. While that makes reaching this part of Oregon more tedious, it makes the visit better. The remote location means that fewer tourists are willing to undergo that travel to Joseph, so even the most popular times of year aren’t terribly busy.

Hotels, Motels & More

Joseph is small. There aren’t many hotel options, and there are no motels in town. There is a small hotel and a few bed and breakfasts:

  • The Jennings Hotel
  • Bronze Antler B&N
  • Belle’s Pepper B&B
  • Kokanee Inn

Enterprise, Oregon is a typical small town in the rural American West. About 10-minutes from Joseph, Enterprise is a nice town, but there isn’t much happening (aside from Terminal Gravity Brewing). There are a few more motel options, though:

  • Eagles View Inn & Suites
  • The Wilderness Inn
  • Ponderosa Motel

For a more nature-oriented stay, look towards Wallowa Lake. The community on the south end of the lake has a few accommodation options including:

  • Eagle Cap Chalets
  • Wallowa Lake State Park (camping, RVs, yurts)

If you want a memorable Eastern Oregon experience (and plan on only visiting Joseph as a day trip), stay in Baker City. Yes, it’s a two-hour drive, but the Geiser Grand Hotel is the most remarkable, historic and peculiar hotel in this part of the United States.

When to Visit

The continental location and elevation of Joseph mean that it gets cold. Temperatures in Summer are typically mild with cool-to-cold nights. Winter is cold.

The best time to visit is the middle of Summer. The weather is perfect, and July 4th brings a big celebration to town and Wallowa Lake. Late-Spring to early-Fall are decent times, depending how well you handle the cold temperatures.

The first snows usually fall in October and the last of the season is normally in April or May. Snow tends to stick, but it’s not at the heavy depths of the Cascades or Rocky Mountains. Basically, Joseph is cold with a little snow for several months. Winter is not the best time to visit unless you plan to partake in Winter sports.


Joseph, Oregon is a peculiar travel destination in a remote, often overlooked corner of the state. The town has a little bit of old American West, some rural Oregon and a dash of Western Oregon. This all comes together to make a unique, pretty tourist town in Northeast Oregon.

Today, Joseph is becoming known more for its artistic qualities and boutique shops. It even has some decent food. Despite that, the city itself and the incredible natural beauty right outside of town remain the dominant tourist attractions.

Downtown Joseph Oregon and Oregon Alps

Northeast Oregon may not be known as a travel destination, but Wallowa County, particularly Joseph, is well worth a visit. This is one unique, out-of-the-way road trip stop that shouldn’t be missed.


This post contains affiliate links. I may receive a small commission for purchases made through these links – at NO additional cost to you.


 

Filed Under: City Guides

Baker City, Oregon Travel Guide

September 18, 2020 By Hangry Backpacker 2 Comments

Baker City, Oregon is an underrated travel destination. To be fair, Baker City may not be on many tourist radars or even rated at all. There’s something unique about this place, though, and it is well worth a stop for roadtrippers, American culture enthusiasts and anyone who wants to see a different side – the real side – of Oregon.

Baker City Tower on Main Street

Baker City, Oregon may not be a sought-after, world-famous or major travel destination. The small city of less than 10,000 people may not even be the most popular place to travel in Northeast Oregon. (I would look to the little town of Joseph and the Wallowa Mountains for that distinction.)

Why Travel to Baker City, Oregon

In Northeast Oregon, on the 45th parallel of the Northern Hemisphere – for all intents and purposes, essentially a different country, a different world, and a long way from the Willamette Valley and Interstate- 5 population centers – Baker City quietly sits about 3500 feet above sea-level. This is not a luxurious tourist town, and the only kind of backpacking is the outdoorsy, backcountry variety.

So why travel to Oregon and take a detour to Baker City? Why would I – the Hangry Backpacker – a food-minded, backpacking-focused travel enthusiast (bordering on obsessive and annoying, I freely admit) want to go to way out to rural Oregon?

For one, Oregon is far more than Portland.  As fun as the weirdness of Portland can be, there is more to Oregon than eccentric counter-culture, vegan everything,  coffeeshop madness and dispensaries galore. After living in Portland for years now, it becomes more apparent by the day how much the rest of the state has to offer.

Eastern Oregon is full of natural beauty, history, culture, cool towns and nice people. And small towns and cities are really where our true cultures remain intact, unaffected by the changes in faraway big cities. Oh, and these places are usually pretty cheap.

Main Street Downtown Baker City Oregon
Main Street

Tourists typically travel to Baker City and Northeast Oregon for the wondrous natural scenery, but that’s only part of the allure. Though often overlooked, this is the quintessential town for a taste of the American West.

Baker City is more than a pit stop, and it’s more than a base for exploring areas outside of town. From nature to history and even food, there is a lot more to Baker City than one witnesses speeding by on Interstate-84.

Attractions & What To Do in Baker City

Baker City, Oregon is more than a rest stop on the Great American Road Trip. There is a lot to do in the area. The small city is historic, pretty and interesting, and the surrounding area is an oasis of natural beauty in the largely uneventful terrain of Eastern Oregon.

Historic Downtown

Downtown Baker City is nationally recognized as a historic district and has plenty to interest visitors for a day or two. Personally, the most interesting parts of the downtown area are the various delicious restaurants, but there is more to do than stuff your face.

Baker City’s historic downtown is full of beautiful buildings, many of which are surprisingly old for this part of the country. There are stately hotels, classic movie theaters, historic churches and plenty of charming early-19th-century homes.

Exterior of Saint Francis de Sales Cathedral in Baker City on a sunny afternoon
Saint Francis de Sales Cathedral

Downtown is complete with antique shops, boutique coffee/vintage stores and plenty of local places selling random trinkets and junk. If you enjoy sifting through thoughtfully-arranged oddities and wares found in an old town of the American West, there is an abundance of that.

Aside from shopping for secondhand junk or eating your way through town, the historic nature of Downtown Baker City is a travel allure in itself. The city is one of the oldest in Eastern Oregon, and it’s history is aligned with that of the American West – ranching, railroads, gold and, of course, the Oregon Trail.

Eltrym Movie Theater in Downtown Baker City
Eltrym Movie Theater

The history of Baker City is largely overlooked, but it is visible downtown and beyond. This small city in Northeast Oregon is an excellent place to visit to sort of step back in time and imagine what it was like back in the wilder, boomtown days of the West. (To be clear, it’s not some run-down, forgotten hellhole. There are simply elements, reminders and feelings of those eras.)

Anthony Lakes

Though not in Baker City – travel time to these lakes in the Blue Mountains of Oregon takes about an hour – Anthony Lakes is worth the drive to visit for a day trip. The Blue Mountains are a natural spectacle of Oregon, and this is one the best spots (that is easily accessible) to experience the scenery.

Gunsight Mountain across Anthony Lakes Oregon
Summertime at Anthony Lakes

Anthony Lakes are a series of mountain lakes and marsh about 7000 feet above sea level. The area is popular for camping, hiking, fishing and other outdoorsy/water activities. Winter sees Anthony Lakes turn into a destination for snow sports, with the Anthony Lakes Ski Resort receiving quite a bit of snow to enjoy the 20+ ski runs.

There is a really easy hiking loop around the lake, about a mile in length, with several offshoot paths into the woods if you want to explore further or find different views of the mountains. There is a longer, 8-mile loop that goes all the way around Gunsight Mountain, the peak that looms above the lake. This longer hike is more difficult but offers a fun, scenic challenge.

Anthony Lakes isn’t exactly in Baker City, but it is a popular area for outdoor recreation for locals in the area. For tourists in Baker City who want to spend some time with Mother Nature, this is an ideal place. It’s fairly easy to reach, the air is crisp and the landscapes are truly stunning.

Geiser Grand Hotel

The famous and historic Geiser Grand Hotel is an oddity. It’s a beautiful, old hotel that seems peculiarly set in, of all places, Baker City, Oregon. The reasons behind that alludes to the history and importance of Baker City in the late-1800s.

Today, this unique hotel actually attracts tourists to travel to Baker City just to stay here. It was famous in centuries-past as the “finest hotel between Salt Lake City and Portland,” and today, restored to its former glory, the fancy Geiser Grand Hotel attracts travelers from afar.

Gesier Grand Hotel dining room and lobby
interior of the Geiser Grand Hotel

This is another landmark in Downtown Baker City, but the Geiser Grand Hotel is an attraction in itself and worth mentioning.

Northeast Oregon Heritage & Culture

Eastern Oregon is probably one of the most overlooked parts of the United States, especially for travel and tourism and especially Baker City. It’s not exactly the place many people think of when it comes to culture and history.

As mentioned above, there is a lot of history in Baker City, and it’s just sitting there along the streets. There are some notable museums that provide more insight and depth into what life was like way-back-when in this region of forgotten America.

Adler House Museum Baker City

The Adler House Museum is small in comparison to the next two museums mentioned here. However, this old home is an excellent example (and tour) of the glory days of Baker City’s history. Located on Main Street, the pretty house dates back to the late-1800s and was the home of a very important figure in local history.

The National Historic Oregon Trail Interpretive Center is one of the more unique and informative museums depicting and explaining the harrowing experience Americans encountered on their westward journeys in search of a better life. This large, state-of-the-art museum is a haven for Oregon Trail historical information and even has some easy hiking trails.

The Baker Heritage Museum is an excellent source for local history and information. The museum specializes in the local history of the Oregon Trail, as well as other local history, wildlife and culture.

Where to Eat in Baker City

Where to Eat in Baker City is probably the most common question travelers have as they’re passing through or resting in town for the night. Fortunately, there are some good answers.

The cuisine of Baker City is not the biggest tourist draw to this part of Oregon, but the dining options in the city are a pleasant surprise for many visitors. Baker City, especially the historic downtown, and the surrounding area are home to plenty of quality eating options.

Corn beef hash with eggs, hash browns, toast and coffee in Baker City, Oregon restaurant

As I often repeat, “food and drink is an open window into another culture.” This holds true in Eastern Oregon, too. Life is different in this part of the United States, especially compared to Portland and the Willamette Valley region, and that lifestyle is reflected in the great local food.

Whether it’s local restaurants highlighting local agriculture or one of Oregon’s best breweries – and that is really saying something, but Barley Brown’s is that good – Baker City has great eating and drinking options. For a more detailed and thorough breakdown, read the Hangry Backpacker’s Guide to Eating in Baker City.

Transportation

Baker City is not the easiest place to reach. It’s a small city, and there are no commercial flights and no passenger trains stopping in town. A car is pretty essential to visiting the area.

Classic 1940s Chevrolet pickup truck

You can take a Greyhound bus from Portland ($40-50, 7+ hours) or Boise ($20-30, 2+ hours), and, technically, there is a tiny commercial airport in Pendleton about 90 minutes away.

Even if you decide to take a bus to Baker City, there’s not really any way to get around without a car. Downtown is easy enough to traverse on foot, but anything outside of those few blocks will require a set of wheels.

Baker City, Oregon is a small town in the rural American West. A large, sparsely-populated region. In fact, it is the seat of Baker County, which has less than 20,000 residents and is larger than Delaware. Public transportation is all but nonexistent, and, no matter which direction you come from, reaching the town requires a bit of windshield time.

It should also be noted that there is nowhere in Baker City, Oregon (at least nowhere that I have personally seen or been able to locate online) that has rental cars. Baker City is an excellent road trip stop, but make reservations for rental cars early and practically.

Hotels in Baker City

Hotels in Baker City are largely limited to typical interstate motels. American highway mainstays like Motel 6, Super 8, Rodeway Inn and Quality Inn are examples of the majority of accommodation options in the city. Most of these are located near Interstate-84.

Aside from these, one motel stands out a bit. The Oregon Trail Motel is one block from Main Street in Downtown Baker City. The exterior of the motel screams rural, small town USA (in a good way), but the rooms are simple, cheap and clean.

The Oregon Trail Motel is far from fancy, but it has the perfect location; and the price is the best when factoring in location and the free breakfast. It feels like Eastern Oregon, the staff is great and the on-site restaurant has good food in an awesome local atmosphere.

As far as hotels in Baker City, Oregon go, none is more notable or prestigious than the Geiser Grand Hotel. This hotel was once of the top hotels in the entire northwestern United States.

Gesier Grand Hotel Downtown Baker City Oregon

Today, the Geiser Grand Hotel is one of the major tourist draws in Baker City. The turn-of-the-century style and decor is an homage to luxury in centuries past – back in the times when getting to Baker City took days, not hours.

The Geiser Grand Hotel is the most iconic landmark on Main Street, even if it is dwarfed by the 150-foot Baker City Tower. In a simple, unpretentious town, the Geiser Grand emanates luxury accommodation and fine dining even today.

Of course, staying in this fancy relic of glory days past will cost. Rooms go for more than $200/night. The historical element and fancy nature of the Geiser Grand Hotel is an attractive reason for many people to spend a day or two in Baker City. If you’re not looking to spend that kind of money, the hotel’s restaurant and bar are open to the public and absolutely worth a visit.

The Best Time of Year to Visit

The best time of year to visit Baker City depends mostly on what you’ll be doing. If skiing is of interest, Winter is best. If camping is the goal, then a warmer time of year will be smart. It is important to note that snow sticks in higher elevations longer than in town.

Baker City is pretty dry and fairly sunny. There are ample opportunities throughout the year to enjoy the town and surrounding attractions, be that beneath a blanket of snow or baking under the dry, Eastern Oregon sun.

From a strict weather point of view, the late-Spring to mid-Summer seasons are ideal. This time has warm days and cool nights, without temperatures being too extreme on either end of the thermometer.


Baker City, Oregon isn’t a flashy travel destination. It’s not a backpacker town, a hub of some obscure microculture or a remote sanctuary of luxury.

Baker City, Oregon is the place to visit for beautiful scenes of the real American West. This is the place to visit for travelers and roadtrippers seeking somewhere pretty, real, unpretentious and unique.

Historic Downtown Baker City Shop and zebra statue

Tourists are more likely to travel through Baker City than to Baker City. What the Interstate doesn’t reveal is a cool town in an interesting part of the United States. Baker City is the perfect visit for roadtrippers that want to see another side of Oregon complete with an historic old town, beautiful mountains and great food. As an added bonus, this part of America is pretty darn cheap.

Filed Under: City Guides

Granada vs. Seville: Full Travel Comparison

August 27, 2020 By Hangry Backpacker Leave a Comment

Granada vs. Seville – it’s not a simple comparison. This isn’t a debate of choosing Granada or Seville in a soccer game. Which Andalusian city should you visit on your trip to Spain?

Granada vs Seville the Hangry Backpacker

If possible and time permits, Granada and Seville (Sevilla) are both excellent places to travel in Spain. When time is not on your side, choosing a travel destination can be more complicated.

These two Spanish cities are both popular with tourists for a reason. Before you choose – if you have to choose – compare Granada vs. Seville in this analysis. Decide which one is the better place to travel for you.

Seville vs. Granada – The Main Attractions

Granada and Seville both have fantastic attractions that draw tourists. What about the top attractions? Does Granada or Seville have the better landmark travel highlight?

Granada:

The Alhambra complex is the major tourist draw in Granada. The grounds consist of palaces, a ruined fortress, extravagant gardens and even an art museum. All of this comes with great views over the city of Granada.

Hilltop view of Alhambra in Granada Spain

Alhambra is an enormous source of tourism. Millions of tourists visit each year, and it is a place that I could easily spend half a day wandering around (again).

Seville:

The famous Cathedral of Seville is the most prominent and popular tourist attraction in Seville. This massive church, one of the largest in the world, draws thousands of tourists and religious pilgrims on a daily basis. Seville Cathedral has tons of history, jaw-dropping interior decor and even the tomb of Christopher Columbus.

Seville city center from cathedral bell tower

Seville Cathedral also has the best view in the city. The bell tower, a former minaret, provides marvelous views of the city center in Sevilla.

Granada vs. Seville – which has the better major tourist attraction? Both of these sites are stunning, picturesque and full of history. The Alhambra is more difficult to visit and more expensive, but it is the clear winner here.

Seville Cathedral is cool, but there are a lot of massive churches in Europe. That’s not a bad thing; Seville Cathedral is different from other large European churches, but the Alhambra is definitely the more unique attraction.

Other Tourist Attractions

Aside from the major attractions in each city, which place is better for a variety of tourist attractions?

There are plenty of interesting things to do in Granada. Granada has big beautiful churches, too, and the hilly city also has several fantastic view points. But, truthfully, there aren’t that many significant, landmark tourist attractions in Granada aside from Alhambra. It is a city to visit for other reasons, which we’ll cover below.

On the other hand, Seville has tons of noteworthy tourist attractions. Aside from the imposing cathedral, Seville has the beautiful Plaza de Espana, Roman ruins scattered in and around the area, a famous royal palace (alcazar), modern architectural curiosities and a host of several impressive museums.

Plaza de Espana in Seville on a sunny afternoon

As far as significant, “noteworthy” tourist attractions, Seville is the clear winner versus Granada. Seville’s larger size and greater historical importance are the reason there are so many notable attractions in the city.

Seville vs. Granada – Where is the Better Food?

The Granada vs. Seville battle for best food is a terribly difficult and complicated contest to judge. Picking a clear winner will surely anger someone from one of these places. Both of these cities have phenomenal cuisine that represents everything travelers love about Andalusia.

First off, I want to make it clear that neither Seville nor Granada has explicitly better food. In fact, I genuinely want to return to both of these cities for no other reason than to eat. Of course, I’ll squeeze in other tourist activities, but food is my primary motivation.

However, despite each city having delicious cuisine, that doesn’t mean they’re equal. Both cities might be in Andalusia, and both are known for a culture of tapas, but there are significant differences that can tip the scales in one direction for hungry travelers.

Granada is known for tapas. Eating tapas in Granada is not just about filling your belly. It is an experience. There are few instances where tourists dine with locals in an authentic environment like the tapas scene in Granada.

busy dark bar local in Granada

It doesn’t matter whether a restaurant in Granada is popular with tourists. That’s not enough to scare locals away. Locals dominate the clientele at good tapas hotspots, and tourists are welcome to join.

The best part of the lively tapas culture in Granada is that it’s free. Patrons pay for a drink and, moments later, a plate of food comes out. In the less-touristic places, the small plates are bigger and better.

Eating in Seville is every bit as enjoyable as in Granada. Tapas in Seville are a big deal, too, though slightly different than Granada. For starters, they aren’t free, but tapas in Seville are cheap and usually larger portions.

Pringa serranito tapas Sevilla

As a larger city, there are more options for eating in Seville. And the city has several notable local specialties. However, with its larger size and greater number of tourists, there are also a lot of tourist restaurants crowding the plate in Seville.

Granada vs. Seville in terms of food is a draw. There may be no clear winner, but there is, more importantly, no loser. Each city has delicious eats and a lively tapas scene.

Personally, I want to go back and eat in Granada more than Seville. Eating in Granada is one of my all-time favorite travel experiences. That being said, I would probably head to Seville shortly after a few days of eating in Granada.

Granada or Seville – Which City is More Touristy?

The unfortunate truth is that both Seville and Granada are very touristic cities. Spain, in general, is a popular destination for tourists with Andalusia being one of the more popular regions within the country.

The deep history of these cities means that there are a lot of attractions. A lot of tourist attractions means, obviously, a lot of tourists.

Tourist crowds in Seville Spain

The center of Seville may be incredibly lovely, but it is extremely touristic. Between the charm and beauty are tour groups, souvenir shops and thousands upon thousands of tourists sprawling out from the center.

Tourism in Granada is more concentrated. The Alhambra’s position perched atop a hill surrounded by a park means that other tourist activities are down below in the city itself. Some of these streets are flooded with tourists, but the “tourist sprawl” in Granada is significantly more contained.

Tourist street in Granada with souvenir shops and trinkets

The larger size of Seville makes it easy to lose crowds and escape touristy scenes. Large chunks of the city are especially touristy, though. Granada may have some serious tourist business, but the city is less touristy than Seville.

Keep in mind, though, that comparing Granada versus Seville in regard to which city is more touristic is a bleary comparison. It is easy enough to escape tourist crowds in each city, but each also has more than its fair share of visitors.

Which City is Better for Wandering

Words like “beautiful” and “charming” and “picturesque” are more commonly associated with Seville than Granada. Part of this is due to the fact that the buildings are a little more colorful. Another reason is simply the greater volume of tourists visiting Seville.

Seville is not inherently more attractive than Granada. The two cities are just different. Though they are both in Andalusia, the differences of these two cities are significant. Granada is hilly and nestled next to a mountain range, whereas Seville is mostly flat. Both of these cities are pretty and places where it’s difficult for tourists to put the camera down.

So which city is better for a casual stroll of getting lost and wandering around?

Narrow empty street in Seville Spain

Seville is larger, so it has that going for it. It is also one of those cities where you’ll turn a corner and, seemingly out of nowhere, there is a postcard scene or striking piece of architecture. Seville’s popularity also means more crowds.

Granada is hilly, meaning that there are a lot of unique views. The hills also deter lazy travelers. Aside from the most popular viewpoints, most are not crowded. The central, popular area of Granada is beautiful but busy. The farther you wander from Alhambra, the less likely it is that you’ll see many other tourists.

Viewpoint in Granada looking down and out over the city

Granada is an ideal city for aimless wandering, but Seville has the edge. Ultimately, it comes down to size. Seville is larger, and most tourists congregate in and around the center of the city.

Wandering around Seville is a treat. Whether it’s on the tiny side streets near the center or across the river in Triana, the labyrinthine nature of the city makes it the perfect place to get lost and lose the crowds.

Travel Costs – Is Granada or Seville Cheaper?

Depending on the season, Spain can be a fairly cheap travel destination. The weather dictates a lot of the costs. Rainy, colder times of year stifle demand for the most part. The exception is something like holidays or festivals. These can cause demand (and prices) to skyrocket regardless of weather.

Granada vs. Seville in terms of travel costs is pretty clear: Granada is cheaper. The big city effect, the same factor that influences popularity and food, also causes Sevilla to be slightly more expensive.

Compared to Granada, costs in Seville are not significantly higher. Food, which can be a hefty part of my budget, is slightly more expensive. Beer is clearly more expensive, though still pretty cheap.

All of the popular tourist attractions in Seville also add up. The Alhambra is more expensive than any of these, but there are more places of interest with admission fees in Seville.

Hotels can be as expensive as you want them to be. There are more pricey hotels in Seville, but there are plenty of affordable options, too. As far as hostels go, prices are similar, but Seville has more options.

Overall, Granada is cheaper. But prices in Sevilla are not so high that you’ll want to avoid the city or shorten your stay.

Transportation – Better in Granada or Seville?

Cities in Spain typically have good public transportation. Not all cities are the same, and if ease of getting around is a concern for your visit, consider the quality of public transportation in Granada versus Seville:

Intra-city Transportation

Both Sevilla and Granada are walkable cities. Most of the top tourist attractions are centrally located and easy to reach on foot.

Granada has a greater change in elevation than Sevilla. Its location at the foothills of the Sierra Nevada mountains means portions of the city contain fairly steep hills. With a lot of narrow streets, public transport is limited reaching some of these areas.

The bus system in Granada is adequate enough for tourists, but there isn’t really much need to use it. Granada has a light rail network that is severely limited and only useful if you’re arriving at the bus station.

Seville is pretty much flat. Walking in the city is the simplest way to get around. The exception would be in the high heat of Summer, during which time Sevilla is notoriously hot.

Guadalquivir River in Sevilla

Otherwise, Seville is one of the most bike-friendly cities in Spain, and it has the best public transportation network in Andalusia. This includes trams in the city center, a metro system and an extensive bus network.

Inter-city Transportation

The biggest difference in transportation for Granada vs. Seville is the regional and national transportation network. Seville is the clear leader in this category.

Granada has a train station that is all but useless to tourists. Trains from Granada do not connect to any other major cities. Forget what the internet says, there is not a direct train from Granada to Seville, Cordoba, Malaga or Madrid. Not even the slower “media distance” train.

Front exterior of the Granada Spain Train Station

To reach Seville by train from Granada, you have to first take an hour-long bus to Antequera. In my case, I had to take a bus from Granada to Antequera, a second bus to Osuna and finally a train to Seville.

It’s not difficult to get around Spain from Granada, but the schedule is unreliable and inconsistent. It is much easier (and faster) to travel by bus, such as ALSA, from Granada to reach Seville or other cities in Andalusia.

Seville has similar regional bus connections as Granada, so there is minimal difference in that transportation option. Seville’s Santa Justa train station can transport travelers across Spain. It has several high-speed, long-distance routes.  These tend to be expensive but save a lot of travel time.

Should you want to rent a car and drive yourself, a road trip in Andalusia is also an excellent way to see the region. The freedom to get around and go for a hike or stop at any of the alluring villages or beaches is tempting to say to the least.

Air Transportation

Granada and Seville both have international airports. The destinations served and capacity of the airports are another big difference between the two cities.

Granada has an airport about 20 minutes west of the city. The airport is essentially good for flying to Madrid and a few other cities in Western Europe.

Seville Airport (Aeropuerto de Sevilla) has a much larger operation than Granada. Aeropuerto de Sevilla is one of Spain’s busiest airports and has regular flights to several Spanish cities and dozens of cities in Europe.

In regards to transportation, Seville is the clear winner vs. Granada. The city is flat, bike-friendly and has excellent ground and air connections to Spain and Western Europe. Granada isn’t remote by any stretch, but it is a little more tedious getting to/from the smaller city.


Granada or Seville, Who Wins?

The comparison of Granada vs. Seville is a difficult competition to judge. Both cities have positives. Seville is easier to reach and has more specifically notable attractions. Granada is smaller, has better tapas and has a beautiful backdrop of mountains.

On the surface, Seville seems like it would be the clear winner. It has everything a tourist looks for in a travel destination – food, history, culture, pretty sights – and that’s why it is so popular.

View of Seville from atop the Metropol Parasol setas de sevilla

Granada has the intangibles, though. In addition to being an aesthetically pleasing city, notable attractions and having great food, there’s something about the city that stands out. Maybe it’s the feeling that local life not only exists in the tourist bubble – it thrives. Tourism and local life coexisting in this manner is a rarity in the 21st century.

Neither Seville or Granada is the better city to visit. They’re both great, but I do have a preference.

Granada is one of my favorite cities in the world. My visit was supposed to be two or three days and I stayed for over a week. I almost rented an apartment to stay for a month, but prior commitments, life and all that got in the way.

Residents walking up a steep staircase on a hill in Granada Old City

I also loved Seville. Despite its more-touristic nature, Sevilla is a beautiful, lively city. It has phenomenal food, too, but there’s just something extra special about Granada.

Filed Under: City Guides, Lagniappe

Complete Guide for Solo Travel in Madrid

August 15, 2020 By Hangry Backpacker Leave a Comment

Madrid, Spain is an excellent candidate for solo travel. The vibrant city attracts millions of tourists each year, and it’s position as the Capital of Spain elicits a cosmopolitan vibe throughout the city. The popularity of Madrid does not mean it should be discounted as a destination for solo travel.

Cibeles Palace in Madrid with the sun shining behind the tower

Whether you’re in Madrid as a budget backpacker or with a little more spare change in your pocket, visiting as a solo traveler is a fantastic way to spend time in the city. There is a reason to visit Spain’s capital for every traveler. This guide will help in your preparations and expectations for visiting Madrid:

Tourist Highlights

Madrid’s position as a national capital is an obvious tourist attraction. The location of Madrid in the center of Spain is an added travel bonus. It is essentially at the geographic crossroads of Spain, and this has positioned Madrid as an ideal place to start a solo travel journey into the culture and action of the country.

For any traveler, be that a solo backpacker or someone in town for a short travel stay, there are a few highlights of Madrid that cannot be missed on a first visit. These are some of the main tourist attractions in Madrid:

Royal Palace of Madrid

The Royal Palace of Madrid is an imposing sight and the official residence of the King of Spain. Although the Spanish Royal Family wields virtually no power or authority – they seem to be shrouded in scandal more often than politics – it still exists. For whatever reason, Spain still has a king.

Gardens at the Royal Palace of Madrid

Without getting into the politics of it – if you’re not a Spanish citizen, does it really matter? – the Royal Palace of Madrid is a great place to visit at the right time. Portions of the palace are open to visitors throughout the year (with holiday and other exceptions). 

Unfortunately, admission costs €13. There is a free admission period each day for EU citizens and citizens of certain Latin American countries. For the rest of us, don’t expect a discount.

The Royal Palace is spectacular, but the admission price isn’t really in line with a solo travel backpacker budget in Madrid. Photography is also not allowed inside. Take the time to see the exterior of the palace, and wander the surrounding grounds. Skip the entrance fees and the crowds.

Prado Museum

The Prado is the most famous museum in Spain and one of the most well-known art museums in the entire world. Famous artists represented include Goya, Raphael, Titian, El Greco, Rembrandt and many more. The Prado is home to some of the world’s most famous works of art and the world’s largest collection of Spanish art.

If you’re even slightly interested in art or museums, the Prado is a must-see for a first timer in Madrid. The benefit of visiting the Prado for solo travel in Madrid is seeking out the art that interests you and going at your own pace. To state the obvious, art museums don’t appeal to everyone. A solo traveler can freely spend an hour or half a day in the Prado.

Prado Art Museum exterior in 2019

The only downside to visiting the Prado is the no photography rule. While it makes sense with flash, it puzzles me that some art museums allow non-flash photography and others fiercely prohibit snapping pictures of any kind.  

Visiting the Prado is a good deal. Admission is only €7.50, and entrance is free from 6-8 PM, Monday-Saturday and 3-5 PM on Sundays. My advice is to arrive at least an hour before the free period begins. The crowds and lines are quite large. 

Travelers with an especially keen interest in art will love the area around the Prado. There are two other art museums, the Thyssen and the Reina Sofia, nearby. These galleries contain art that is not featured in the Prado, such as modern and contemporary art, as well as art from other historical periods.

The Prado (and other nearby art museums) is on nearly every Madrid travel guide for a reason. It is a terrific display of Spanish history and culture at a reasonable price.

Other Notable Museums in Madrid

Madrid’s status as a large city, an old city and national capital means there is a lot of culture and history in a single area. For travelers and tourists wanting to explore a little deeper into that culture, here are some other good museums in Madrid:

  • National Archaeological Museum – prehistoric, ancient, medieval and Moorish history in Spain
  • Museum of the Americas – great museum for insight into Spain’s once-illustrious empire
  • Naval Museum – Spain once had the greatest navy in the world
  • Madrid History Museum – local history galore
  • Museum of the Royal Mint – for coin lovers and fellow numismatists, this place is a must!
  • Dozens more including museums of tapestries, anatomy, rocks, transportation and so on

Almudena Cathedral

Almudena Cathedral, officially Santa María la Real de La Almudena, is the center of Catholicism in Madrid. As a heavily Catholic city in a largely Catholic nation, that’s a significant distinction for a church.

Visiting Almudena Cathedral doesn’t have to be a pilgrimage, and it’s not as incredible as Seville Cathedral. It’s just a large, pretty church that holds an important cultural position in the city. The cathedral is also conveniently located directly across the small Armeria Plaza from the Royal Palace.

Almudena Cathedral from Almeria Plaza in Madrid Spain

Almudena Cathedral is big and beautiful, the kind of church that is popular for a reason. The best part of this church is that admission is free – like visits to all religious sites should be.

Puerta del Sol

All tourists in Madrid will eventually find themselves standing in Puerta del Sol. The de facto center of Madrid, Puerta del Sol is where all roads in the city meet. The large plaza is teeming with people, shops and street performers. 

Crowds in Puerta Del Sol at night

To be frank, the area around Puerta del Sol isn’t that interesting. If the plaza was empty, it would be a cool sight. As it is, Puerta del Sol is incredibly crowded. This is great for people watching, but travelers need to mind their pockets and bags around here. 

If you’re into shopping at the same stores (or very similar ones) that are found in every big city in the world, this is the place to go in Spain. And if you need to purchase a silly souvenir, this is the area.

There’s also the famous bear statue – The Bear and the Strawberry Tree – where tourists congregate waiting to take a picture. It’s a fun statue with a little bear craning up to the top of a little tree, but apparently it is representative of Madrid. The statue has definitely become a symbol of the city.

famous bear statue in Madrid, Spain

Puerta del Sol is one of those places you have to see on a first trip to Madrid. It’s on all the travel guides, and it’s certainly a “thing to do” in Madrid. It’s a lot like Times Square in New York City – it’s a center of tourism with shops of overpriced crap and an absurd amount of people. Puerta del Sol is only useful for people watching and ticking something off a list.

I enjoy getting away from dense crowds when I travel solo, and that’s generally easy to do in Madrid. Puerta del Sol is one exception. It’s a place you kind of have to see at least once, but that’s probably enough. See it, use it as a reference point to get around and then explore the rest of the city.

Plaza Mayor

Where Puerta del Sol is the center of Madrid, nearby Plaza Mayor is the historic main square. Plaza Mayor is equally as touristy, but it is a much more attractive scene. The buildings appear older and are certainly more photogenic.

Tourists in Plaza Mayor in Madrid Spain

Plaza Mayor is attracts crowds. Despite being smaller than Puerta del Sol, Plaza Mayor isn’t usually as busy. The square isn’t as open, and it’s also free of public transit stops.

Plaza Mayor has a few restaurants with outdoor seating into the square. These are almost certainly going to have a tourist element about them, including tourist prices, but the location is hard to beat. If you’re going to splurge for one touristy meal in Madrid, this is a good spot.

Live Sports

Controversy aside, bullfighting is popular in Spain. It is often seen as an artform and has deep cultural ties to the country. Madrid is home to the largest bullfighting ring in Spain, Las Ventas. The stadium is located in Salamanca, with the season running from March-October and the peak in late Spring.

Attending a bullfight may not be for everyone. Let’s just say that the bull rarely wins and doesn’t live to fight again. If you’re up for it and in Madrid during the season, there are few activities to experience local culture better than attending a bullfight.

Far more popular and world-renowned than bullfighting is soccer. Or futbol, football, whatever you want to call it. Madrid is home to one of the world’s best, biggest, and wealthiest soccer clubs, Real Madrid. Atletico Madrid is the second best team in town, and both clubs play in enormous stadiums.

Madrid has other teams, too, including two other clubs playing in Spain’s top soccer league. In other words, soccer in Madrid is a really big deal.

If you can get tickets to a Real Madrid game – well, if you can afford them – this would surely be an incredible experience. Atletico tickets are also going to be expensive and in high demand, though slightly more attainable. 

Even if you can’t make it to watch one of the famous teams, catching a game for one of the smaller teams will be an exciting affair. Soccer in Spain is serious business, and the atmosphere at the games is exciting. Even if you’re not a soccer fan, casual sports fans will thoroughly enjoy this opportunity.

Parks & Green Spaces in Madrid

Madrid has a fair amount of parks. If you count public gardens and other (calm and quiet) public spaces, there are a lot. But there are two parks worth checking out for tourists in Madrid.

El Retiro Park in Fall

Casa de Campo

The largest park in Madrid is Casa de Campo. The enormous park, located near the Royal Palace, was originally on royal land, but today it is open to the public. The park is predominantly green and natural, but it is dotted with historical landmarks, points of interest and even an amusement park.

Casa de Campo is the perfect area to get away from the city without actually leaving the city. Solo travel in Madrid may be overwhelming for some, and others may just want to escape the constant grind of big city traffic and crowds.

Casa de Campo is made for wandering. Pack a helping of jamón, bread, cheese and a cold Mahou, and it’s a great area to spend half a day. At over 4000 acres, it is full of trails and quiet spaces. Casa de Campo is the ideal retreat in Madrid for nature, hiking and a decent view of the city.

El Retiro

The prettiest park in Madrid is El Retiro. This park, located in Salamanca, is more organized and planned than Casa de Campo. The lake in the middle is popular for paddle boats, street vendors selling cheap (probably counterfeit) goods and just hanging out.

Although it’s not as “untouched” as it’s larger counterpart, El Retiro is an equally pleasant escape from the city. The paths are perfect for an easy walk. It’s quiet. And the design of the park is attractive, too.

Best Neighborhoods for Solo Travel Wanderings in Madrid

Centro is the oldest district in Madrid. As the name clearly implies, it is also the central district in the city. This is where visitors will find most of the major tourist attractions in Madrid, such as the Royal Palace, Puerta del Sol and Plaza Mayor.

Aside from the obvious highlights of Centro, the district is also home to some of the coolest neighborhoods (wards) in Madrid. The Cortes and Embajadores neighborhoods are especially interesting.

Rainy day in Madrid Centro district

This is the area made for solo travel in Madrid. It’s apt for aimless wandering, and the narrow streets are lined with interesting shops and hundreds of tempting places to pop in for a drink or a bite to eat.

The age of this part of the city is apparent in the architecture. Most of Madrid has older buildings, but a lot of the city looks fairly new or recently renovated. The small side streets of Centro is the area to find slightly older buildings lining stone streets that were never intended for cars. It’s definitely the prettiest part of the city and the best area to get a distinctly Madrid feeling when walking around.

For solo travelers who want to get a real feel for Madrid and find a less touristy part of the city, there are plenty of options. Madrid is a huge city by population and area. There are several neighborhoods to walk around aside from Centro, though it is the most conveniently located and most photogenic. Each district and neighborhood is unique from the next.

I especially enjoyed walking around Salamanca, which is an upscale district to the east of Centro. Salamanca is nicer and more expensive, but that is mostly for people living in Madrid. It still has its fair share of cheap food, and the whole area is a pleasant place to take a stroll.

A main street in Salamanca District Madrid

Solo travel in Madrid would not be complete without checking out areas less frequented by tourists. During my three visits to Madrid, I thoroughly enjoyed exploring more of the city. In addition to Centro, I recommend checking out Retiro, Prosperidad, Salamanca and Charmartin to see another side of Madrid.

Madrid is much more than Centro and much more than these few districts. Solo travelers who like to get away from the crowds and tourist attractions will find Madrid an ideal place to wander.

Eating & Drinking in Madrid

The best activity for tourists – be that backpackers, families, couples or solo travel in Madrid – is eating. Food in Madrid is excellent. Eating in the city offers a wonderful blend of cuisine from around Spain. There are also a lot of international options thanks to Madrid’s size and international status.

Solo travel foodies in Madrid don’t have to worry about the city lacking authentic local eats. Madrid also has plenty of local specialties, and pretty much everything is exceptional.

jamon, chorizo and cheese plate in Salamanca, Madrid

For first-timers in Madrid, there are a few important things to note: This is not the part of Spain where tapas are free and famous, and this is not the paella capital of Spain, either. Lastly, jamón is everything. Eat it. Those are the main points.

For a thorough breakdown of costs, eating cheap, local dishes, drinking the good stuff and a lot more, read the Hangry Backpacker’s Guide to Eating & Drinking in Madrid.

The Best Time to Visit Madrid for Solo Travel

Summer is the most popular time to visit Madrid. This is when the bulk of visitors, tourists of all types, show up en masse. Summer is ideal for the traveler who wishes to travel Spain in the sunshine and include a beach visit or two.

Winter can be more challenging in Spain. It’s not like Winter in Siberia, but mountainous areas are snowy. Winter in Spain also sees popular attractions alter hours and even some smaller tourist businesses shut down for the season.

For independent travelers and solo travel in Madrid, the best time to visit is Spring or Fall. The weather in the city ranges from cool to warm and is pleasant overall. The low season has yet to inconveniently alter operating hours, but the numbers of tourists are significantly lower than the peak season.

Mid-Spring or early Fall is ideal for solo travelers who still want some sunshine and possibly a bit of beach time. It would be wise to expect rainy days and plan accordingly, though. The nice days are made even better by smaller crowds, especially in Fall. The weather in late Fall is inconsistent and unreliable, but the crowds are significantly smaller.

Spain’s climate varies a lot considering the relatively small geographical area. For instance, Summer in the north is pleasant and even cool at night. On the other hand, Summer in Seville is notoriously hot. Madrid is warm during the summertime, occasionally very hot.

For the most part, Madrid is a fairly temperate city. It’s never Bangkok hot or Moscow cold. Solo travel is easiest when there are fewer tourists, and this is the main factor for deciding when to visit Madrid.

How Long Should You Stay in Madrid?

Madrid is a really cool city, but how long is long enough?

Madrid is big, and it’s a national capital. And it’s old. All of these things mean there’s a lot to do. In fact, there is as much to do in Madrid as you want to, so it just depends where your interests lie.

Metropolis building and crowds on Alcala Street

History & Culture Enthusiasts

For travelers interested in history and culture, you could easily spend weeks in Madrid. There are enough museums, galleries, ruins and historical sites to occupy your time for quite a while.

Outdoorsy Travelers in Madrid

Travelers interested in nature and outdoor activities won’t find much need to stay in Madrid for long. It’s a big city, pretty much a concrete jungle, so any sort of hiking, trekking or other outdoor fun will require nature-loving travelers to go elsewhere.

Foodies in Madrid

Food-focused and hungry travelers will love Madrid. There are thousands of bars and restaurants, and the gastronomic scene in Madrid is absolutely top notch. A few days is adequate to get a thorough sampling of cuisine in Madrid. A week of eating in Madrid would be an awesome, thorough way to taste the city. You’ll probably get fat, though, so maybe do some walking.

Solo Travelers in Madrid

Madrid is an excellent choice for solo travel or those who want to escape tourist traps. Yes, there are a lot of tourist attractions (and tourists, at times) in Madrid, but the city is large enough that solo travelers in need of an authentic detour can easily get lost.

There are also several great day trips from Madrid that are ideal for solo travel, such as Segovia and El Escorial. A week is long enough to stay in Madrid if you plan to use the city as a base for day trips, otherwise 3-4 days is enough to see the sights and do some wandering.

Ultimately, how long you should stay in Madrid depends where your travel interests lie. A couple of days is not enough, but a week is probably pushing it for most people. Somewhere right in the middle, about 3-4 days, will be the optimal length of stay in Madrid for most travelers.

Transportation in Madrid for Tourists

Transportation in Madrid is easy and efficient. The city is largely walkable, and there aren’t that many steep hills. Public transportation within the city is easy to use and reasonably priced. Transportation to nearby cities, destinations farther away in Spain and international destinations are also pretty easy to reach from Madrid.

For a full, thorough breakdown of getting around Madrid, including airport transfers, bus/subway prices and more, read the Hangry Backpacker’s Guide to Transportation in Madrid for Tourists.

Is Madrid Safe for Solo Travel?

This is a surprising question that comes up a lot before and after my trips. People are always curious about safety abroad, as if I was heading off to trek through cartel territory or an active warzone.

I guess it’s a reasonable question if it keeps coming up. So is Madrid a safe place to travel solo?

To my American friends, Madrid is far, far safer than most of our big cities. Hell, most of the world is statistically safer than Chicago, New Orleans, St. Louis, Detroit, D.C, Baltimore – should I continue? No, that’s depressing. While tourists aren’t at danger of being hacked away in American cities, rest assured knowing that Madrid is not a dangerous place to travel.

Like any city in the world, travelers should always exercise caution and remain aware of their surroundings. And getting stumbling drunk late at night is not something I would advise.

solo travel in Madrid

The only instance in Spain’s capital where I felt uncomfortable was in Plaza Mayor where a non-local vendor got mad that I didn’t want to buy his cheap, fake sunglasses. I walked away when he yelled, and he left me alone. Otherwise, I had no issues whatsoever.

So, yes. Madrid is totally safe, and solo travel in Madrid is totally safe. In fact, traveling alone might be even safer because you don’t stick out and scream “I’m a tourist!” like the mere presence of a tour group. Solo travel is the best way to see Madrid, and it’s very safe to do so.

Best Hostels in Madrid for Solo Travelers

Madrid is made for solo travel. For backpackers and other long-term travelers, social interaction or someone to explore the city with (or a dinner companion!) is an important factor to consider.

Thankfully, Madrid has hundreds of hostels, and most of them are less than €20 for a bed in a dorm. Private hostel rooms can be as low as €25. These are a few of the great hostel options in Madrid:

  • OK Hostel
  • The Hat
  • La Musas Hostel
  • Bastardo Hostel
  • Open Hostel

Is Madrid Worth Visiting for Tourists?

Madrid is not known as being the most culturally rich, quaint or picturesque city. It’s known more as the big city in Spain. If it’s not spectacular, is it worth your time?

Busy Alcala street in Madrid, Spain

Yes and no. Madrid is not as photogenic as Seville, and it’s not as lively as Barcelona. That doesn’t mean you should skip it. There’s a lot to be said about the national capital and largest city of a country as old as Spain. The cultural impact from those distinctions means there is a lot of important stuff going on. It means there will be a lot of interesting sites and places to see.

Madrid has its pros and cons. More extensive impressions and whether or not I think Madrid is worth visiting for tourists are coming soon.


Madrid is a cool, fun city with tons of attractions and activities for tourists to enjoy. Solo travel in Madrid comes with the bonus of getting around easier, the ease of wandering, exploring the city beyond the touristy areas and traveling cheaper.

Puerta de Alacala Arch in the middle of the road in Madrid, Spain

Whether it’s a brief stay or a longer trip, Madrid has something for every traveler. There are few cities with such a high concentration of culture and history that also have fantastic food and are incredibly clean. Madrid is the gateway into Spain for solo travel, and it’s an excellent starting point for anyone heading to the country for the first time.


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Filed Under: City Guides

Transportation for Tourists in Madrid, Spain

June 1, 2020 By Hangry Backpacker Leave a Comment

As in any foreign destination, tourists in Madrid must navigate the transportation system to make the most of a visit to the Spanish capital. The sooner travelers grasp a reasonable understanding of local transportation, the easier it is to maximize opportunities for important things like sightseeing and sampling local cuisine.

Iberia Airlines jet parked at Madrid Barajas Airport

Transportation in Madrid is generally pretty easy. The most challenging part will be navigating the language barrier for those with limited knowledge of Spanish. Even for the linguistically-challenged tourist, transportation in Madrid is simple.


Transportation From Madrid Airport to the City Center

Transportation in Madrid for most tourists begins at the airport. Madrid-Barajas Airport is the international airport serving the Spanish capital. It is the busiest airport in Spain. With more than 50 million passengers traveling through each year, it is one of the busiest airports in Europe and the world. In other words, if you’re flying into Madrid, it’s here.

After passing through immigration and customs, the next thing for tourists in Madrid is to figure out transportation to the city center. Thankfully, it’s pretty straightforward, fast and easy.

Madrid airport check in area

Metro

The fastest way to reach the city center is via the Madrid metro system. It’s as easy as following the “Metro” signs. Reaching the metro from the terminal involves a bit of walking through the airport, so travelers with excessive baggage should take that into consideration.

There is a metro stop located at terminals 1-3 and a stop at terminal 4. When going into the city, it doesn’t really matter where you get on the metro. *Note: when going to the airport, your departure terminal matters when purchasing the subway fare.

The metro trip from Madrid-Barajas Airport to the city center takes about 30-45 minutes depending on the location of your accommodation. 

Madrid airport metro station

To reach the Centro District where most tourists stay, take the 8 line (direction: Neuvos Ministerios) 4 stops to Colombia. At Colombia metro station, take the 9 train (direction: Puerta de Arganda) 5 stops to Principe de Vergara. If you exit here, you are in Salamanca.

To continue to Centro, at Principe de Vergara, take the 5 train (direction: Cuatro Caminos) 4 stops to Sol. This metro station is beneath the Puerta del Sol, the de facto center of the city and the epicenter of tourism in Madrid. 

The actual city center is about 10 minutes walking from Puerta del Sol, but most hostels are nearer this area. Puerta del Sol is an easy, practical starting point to get around Madrid.

This isn’t the only metro option to reach the city center. Depending on the precise location of your hotel, hostel or rental, there may be an easier or faster option. Personally, for my first time as a tourist in Madrid, I found this to be the simplest transportation option. It is a short distance from tons of hotels and hostels.

The metro from Madrid-Barajas Airport to the city costs about €7.50. This includes the price of the Madrid Transportation Card, about €2.50. Keep the card for further transportation needs. The price of a return to the airport (or a future trip from the airport) will cost about €5 once you have the card.

Bus

Madrid-Barajas Airport is served by an express bus. This is basically the only way to get the bus directly from the airport and into the city. The yellow buses run every 15 minutes and pick up from terminals 1, 2 and 4.

Taking the airport express bus is not the most convenient method. Being on a dedicated “express” route, there are only 3 stops in the city, so most people will have to take another bus, a metro or plan for a lengthy walk to reach their accommodation.

The airport express from Madrid Airport takes a long time. The express bus to the city center takes over an hour. It’s a good way to see some of the city, but that’s not on the forefront of most travelers’ minds after a long flight. 

Lastly, the bus from the airport to the city costs about €5, so it’s not even a significantly cheaper alternative. Due to the slowness and inconvenient stops, I do not recommend tourists use the bus for transportation from the airport to Madrid City Center.

Taxi/Uber

The fastest and easiest transportation for tourists from Madrid Airport to the city center, accommodation or anywhere else in the area is via taxi or Uber. Of course, this is assuming traffic is not exceptionally bad. 

Taxis from the airport to a hotel will take about 20-25 minutes. A normal taxi fare is about €30, once again, assuming traffic is flowing at a reasonable pace.

Taxis are usually the fastest and easiest method of local transportation. In some places, there is a worry about taxi scams, but that is not an issue in Madrid. The only drawback here is the cost, but peace of mind is worth it for many travelers, especially after a long flight. 

Walking in Madrid

Walking is the easiest and best method of transportation in Madrid for tourists. It’s the best way to see the city, and walking is healthier and free of charge. 

Most of Madrid is easily walkable. In particular, most areas of interest to tourists are concentrated in the city center. Provided your hostel/hotel is nearby, there’s very little need for most visitors to worry about metro lines, bus routes or taxi fares. 

Centro is the center of tourism in Madrid. Getting across the district may take some time due to the mishmash of streets, but it’s not especially physically demanding. Based on the eye test, a large amount of Madrilenians traverse their city on foot.

pedestrians walking in Madrid center near Metropolis building

For tourists in Madrid staying outside of Centro, a quick bus or metro trip will deposit passengers right in the middle of the action in a few minutes. However, depending on the desired level of activity and the willingness to walk, even the neighborhoods around Centro are close enough to justify getting around on foot. 

For instance, the upscale Salamanca district is about 30 minutes from Puerta del Sol. It’s not a short walk, but it’s pretty flat and an easy way to get some exercise.

Overall, Madrid is not a very strenuous place to walk. The city does have hills, but most parts of the city are flat or contain gradual inclines. The old part of Centro does have a few steeper inclines. The only issues for walking in Madrid would be for disabled persons or those carrying a lot of luggage.

hilly and colorful street of old Madrid
narrow streets and hills of old Madrid

Like most cities, walking is the best way to see more of the Spanish capital. In Madrid, walking makes perfect sense. The city is clean and pedestrian-friendly. The health factor of walking is important too, as Spanish food isn’t exactly a low-calorie cuisine.

Madrid by Bus

The Madrid bus system runs 24 hours a day, with limited lines running after 1130 PM. It connects all corners of the city and much of the metro area. The benefit of taking the bus in Madrid is that it can take you just about anywhere with very little walking required.

The cost for a single ride is €1.50, and this can be purchased on the bus. The fare is cheaper when purchasing 10 rides, coming in at €12.20. This saves a few euros, and, for tourists planning to return to Madrid, the rides don’t expire for several years.

Bus (and metro) tickets can be purchased at any metro station, but the easiest place to get bus tickets is at one of the newspaper or tobacco stands on street level. These stands are prevalent around the city.

Personally, I don’t care much for most bus systems. Yes, at times, they are the most convenient (or only) option. However, to me, buses are slow and inconvenient. And they are often very crowded. In Madrid, the traffic slows down buses, and the construction that seems to be taking place everywhere is another factor that slows buses. 

The extensive bus network in Madrid makes it appealing, but I find it to be a headache. Walking is simpler, and the subway is usually faster.

The Madrid Metro

The Madrid Metro is the subway system in the city. For tourists, the metro is the fastest transportation to get across Madrid. It is simpler than the buses and is not affected by traffic or construction. Outside of rush hour, the crowds are not excessive.

old Madrid Metro trains
old Madrid Metro cars

The Madrid Metro is reasonably priced compared to most major cities in Western Europe. One ride costs €1.50-2.00. This ticket is good for trips in “Zone A,” which covers most of the city. A combined ticket (ticket outside Zone A) will cost €3. As with the bus system, riders can purchase rides in bulk – 10 rides for €12.20.

When landing at Madrid Airport, tourists will need to purchase a transportation card before using any bus or metro. It costs a small amount, but the card is needed to use the system. Hang on to the card after this initial trip. If you’re planning to return to Madrid anytime soon, that’s another reason to keep the card.

Madrid transportation card for locals and tourist

Transportation To/From Madrid

Madrid is a popular destination in its own right, but most travelers will include other places in their trip. Fortunately, transportation for tourists to/from Madrid and around Spain is super easy. 

Spain has an excellent rail and bus network for passengers. I’ve never witnessed such a puzzling display of consistent inefficiency (from a practical, financial perspective), but more on that coming in a future post. The point is that, for a tourist in Spain, it is easy to travel around the country.

Trains are always easier and more expensive. Buses are generally slower but tend to be cheaper and serve more destinations. Here are some basics to know to get around Spain when going to/from Madrid.

Train

Madrid has two main train stations. Puerta de Atocha is the biggest train station in the city. It is located close to the city center, within walking distance of Centro. Atocha is the principal train station to use for trips around much of Spain, though shorter routes also embark from here (regional, Cercanias). It is a big, beautiful train station.

interior plaza of Puerta Atocha train station in Madrid
interior plaza, Puerta de Atocha

Chamartin is the secondary long-distance train station in Madrid. For the most part, Chamartin is used for medium-distance routes (regional trains) and slower long-distance routes. It is also used for the Cercanias commuter rail system that connects Madrid with nearby smaller cities and towns, such as El Escorial. 

Front entrance of Madrid Chamartin train station

Tourists should go to Puerta de Atocha for the fastest trains to reach other popular places in Spain, such as Seville, Valencia or Barcelona. There are even international trains (to France) from Atocha. For destinations in the north of Spain, Chamartin is the station of choice.

Regional trains in Spain are typically cheaper and slower. A train from Madrid to Segovia costs €7 and takes about 2 hours. This is on the “Media Distancia” train. A high-speed line, AVE or Alvia, also reaches Segovia. However, it is more expensive and the station in Segovia is not centrally located.

AVE or Alvia trains (high-speed) to locales farther away can be expensive. Tickets are usually cheaper when buying far in advance. For example, a ticket from Seville to Madrid on a high-speed AVE train can cost as little as €25-30. A last-minute purchase (like I did) cost over €70. If you know your travel dates, it’s best to buy the tickets early. 

tourists on train platform using public transportation in Madrid, Spain
tourists exiting AVE train

The same goes for the high-speed train between Barcelona and Madrid. Purchased early, the ticket can cost €35-40. On the other hand, buying the ticket right before departure regularly costs €100.

Some of the prices for these trains are pretty steep, but the journeys are fast. The high-speed train to/from Madrid and Seville takes a little over 2 hours, and the journey to/from Barcelona takes about 3 hours. By comparison, the slower trains will take at least 6 or 7 hours.

Bus

The cheapest way to get around Spain is via bus. Lengthy bus trips may not be the most common method of transportation to and from Madrid for most tourists (exception: backpackers, budget travelers), but they are a much better option than most travelers realize. 

If time is on your side, buses are very practical. Most bus stations are more centrally located in cities, and buses serve more destinations than trains. Plus, buses are almost always cheaper than trains. Compared to slow trains, buses take about the same amount of time.

Buses in Spain (and most of Europe) are a good quality transportation method. As an American, that’s a hard concept to grasp. I’ve taken long bus rides in the US, and they are usually less than pleasant. Spain’s long-distance buses beat the hell out of a Greyhound trip every time.

ALSA bus for tourist transportation in Madrid and Spain

The main long-distance bus station in Madrid is Estacion Sur de Autobuses. It is located near Puerta de Atocha train station, and there are buses here traveling all across Spain. There are even international bus routes leaving from Estacion de Sur going to Morocco, Portugal, France and beyond. 

The secondary bus station in Madrid is Avenida de America. This one is located in the Prosperidad neighborhood, a little farther away from most tourist interests but still in the middle of the city. Most buses from Avenida de America serve destinations in the north of Spain, though there are international routes here as well. 

When going to Avenida de America bus station, go inside and all the way down to the bottom level. This is where the buses park and load, and they are not visible from street level.

All of the long bus journeys I took in Spain were nice, clean and comfortable. About half the time, the free WiFi even works. Also, the buses are usually not full, and there is plenty of room to spread out. As much as I love riding on trains, buses are usually more practical from a comfort and price standpoint. Long-distance buses in Spain are great.


Spain has a fantastic public transportation network. Fortunately, transportation in Madrid for tourists is equally comprehensive and easily navigable. There is a transportation card specifically for tourists in Madrid. It can be used for 1, 3, 5, or 7 days. However, I find the regular system to be more practical.

Plaza Mayor full of tourists in Madrid, Sapin

Walking is almost always the healthiest and least stressful way to get around a destination. In Madrid, too, walking is the best way to see the city and, most importantly, find all of the delicious food. Other options for getting around are better than decent, though. Whether on foot, by bus or train, getting a grasp on transportation is the first step to enjoying and maximizing time for tourists in Madrid.

Filed Under: City Guides

Eating & Exploring: Day Trip to Segovia, Spain

May 4, 2020 By Hangry Backpacker 2 Comments

Segovia, Spain is a small city that makes a perfect day trip for travelers in Madrid. Northwest of Spain’s capital city, Segovia has a visible history that goes back thousands of years. The city is home to striking Roman ruins, medieval castles and mouthwatering local delicacies. 

Panoramic view of the old city in Segovia, Spain, with the cathedral rising above the rest of the walled city

Segovia is the perfect day trip from Madrid for travelers who want a little bit of everything packed into one day. Food, history, architecture, beautiful views – it’s all on display in Segovia. For the must-sees and must-eats, a day in this city should be on every Spain travel itinerary. Here’s what you need to know for the perfect day trip to Segovia: [Read more…] about Eating & Exploring: Day Trip to Segovia, Spain

Filed Under: City Guides, Eat

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Staple (noun) - a basic or necessary item of food Staple (noun) - a basic or necessary item of food

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I love a good view! This one, from the Clock Tower I love a good view! This one, from the Clock Tower of Tirana, offers great views over Skanderbeg Square.

From the top, you can see that Tirana is different than what people may assume. It's green and lively with a mountain backdrop, modern and historic at the same time. 

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The Church of St. Michael, Berat. This tiny Orthod The Church of St. Michael, Berat. This tiny Orthodox church sits on the cliffside between old town and Berat Castle. Though it isn't the most majestic church, it dates back to the Byantine era of the 14th Century and has great views.

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