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Get Lost

27 Essential Egypt Travel Tips

January 12, 2025 By Hangry Backpacker Leave a Comment

Egypt has long been a famous travel destination. Touring the sights of Ancient Egypt is a thrilling experience, and the modern nation has a lot to offer, too. From ancient civilization to sprawling megacity, there is no shortage of excitement waiting.

Great Sphinx and Pyramid in background in Giza Egypt travel tips

For many visitors, a trip to Egypt can also come with plenty of anxiety and uncertainty, which can easily lead to confusion and frustration. That is not something you want to detract from this fascinating place and the trip of a lifetime.

Exploring the land of pyramids and mummies should be every bit as memorable as you hope. The best way to ensure that you have the unforgettable trip you’ve always imagined is to go prepared.

Before traveling to Egypt, I spent a lot of time researching everything from safety and transportation to ticket prices and street food. I’m glad I did the research, but the best information is usually that which is acquired first hand. These travel tips for Egypt are taken from our personal experiences, research and learned lessons in the land of pharaohs.

1. Pre-Arrange Airport Transportation

Most tourists arrive in Egypt via plane, often after a lengthy flight. In our case, the outbound 36-hour journey consisted of three flights totaling about 20 hours in the air. The final leg was a dolorous 13 hours. Exhaustion was teetering on the verge of delirium.

Fortunately, I’ve boarded a fair few uncomfortable transcontinental flights. The last thing you want to do when you land is stress about how to reach your accommodation. Arrange it beforehand. It’s worth every penny.

Stressing about ground transportation, hoping that the Uber app works, haggling with taxi drivers and trusting that I’m not getting scammed – this isn’t something I’m willing to chance when I’m exhausted. Instead, I spent a few dollars more and arranged transportation before I left home. For a grand total of $25 ($17 + $8 tip), that is easily worth the reduction of stress and my peace of mind in a state of utter exhaustion.

There are many transport operators from which you can choose. We chose to book with 12Go, whom we have used all around the world: Cairo Airport Transportation

2. Don’t Forget to Tip!

Egypt has a notorious tipping culture, one even more serious than the asinine American tipping culture. And it goes double for tourists, perhaps literally. You are expected to tip.

Whether it’s a taxi, bellhop, waiter – if you are receiving anything remotely close to any kind of service, a tip is expected. Keep in mind, if you haven’t received any service, you don’t have to tip; however, what locals qualify as ‘service’ when it pertains to tourists has extremely liberal parameters.

pile of Egyptian pound currency notes and coins

The word ‘baksheesh’ is the one that means tip. Many tourists who travel to Egypt report having this word screamed at them at some point or other. This was not our experience, but it’s a good word to know.

Most importantly! Don’t forget to tip your guides! While many who demand tips do not deserve it, official tour guides should not be lumped in with that bunch. Official tour guides in Egypt are held to high standards, provide excellent service and are deserving of something extra.

3. Keep Walking and Say “No”

Touts, vendors, merchants – whatever you want to call them, just say “No.” These people are outside (and often inside) every site of interest for tourists in Egypt, and they can sense weakness. Next thing you know, you’ll be trying to figure out how to pack the stuffed camel you now own or wondering how you squandered so much cash on an ordinary rock carved into a pyramid.

Egypt souvenirs with a stuffed camel, a pyramid and small sarcophagus

Try to avoid eye contact, too (unless you are genuinely interested in something). They are relentless in Egypt, albeit not as aggressive and sneaky as those I experienced in Morocco.

Regardless, be firm. If you don’t need something or don’t want to buy something, say “no” and keep walking. If a vendor persists aggressively or touches you, be firm. Don’t be afraid to raise your voice. And DO NOT feel guilty. This is something, in my opinion, that is unacceptable and simply poor business practice. The only reason they act this way is because it works enough on people who give in to their efforts.

On this note, this is something that Egypt’s tourist police and agencies need to fix. Tourists are willing to spend money, but this kind of behavior discourages many tourists from even stopping to consider making a purchase. Some people have such poor experiences they refuse to return to Egypt and encourage others not to visit at all.

If you know where you are going, don’t let someone try to lead you in another direction. In fact, no matter where you are, it’s probably best to not follow any overeager local you don’t know.

Our experience wasn’t traumatizing or anything like that, though we’ve prior experience with aggressive touts. Just be firm, say “no” or completely ignore them and keep walking.

4. Haggle

If you’re purchasing a souvenir, trinket, a camel ride – basically, if you’re purchasing any object or service that might fall into the ‘tourist’ realm – negotiate the price. Otherwise you’re getting ripped off, because that painting is not actually done by Muhammad Ali (yes, someone actually said this to me, and he specifically meant the boxer). And that little figurine is not ancient. It’s cool, sure, but it’s cheap and certainly not historic.

Make sure you negotiate. Once you get into it, it’s kind of fun, too.

5. Hire a Private Tour Guide

This may be the most important Egypt travel tip you come across. A tour guide in Egypt is a wonderful resource to have. Egyptian tour guides are far more than a person to lead you around the famous sites.

Hangry Backpackers and tour guide Edfu Temple Egypt
one of the best guides ever!

Official tour guides in Egypt are held to high standards. Their knowledge of history is extremely impressive. Beyond history, official tour guides can be a great resource for local advice and suggestions, and they will make your trip to Egypt significantly better and more manageable. This is an investment that is well worth it, especially for first-time visitors.

6. Don’t Drink the Water

Seriously, don’t take the chance. Buy bottled water. Look into those portable water filtering bottles if you can’t stand the plastic water bottles. I would prefer not to create the waste, too, but I’d rather just get over myself and also not have violent diarrhea.

It’s up to you, but I suggest buying bottled water for a few days. Plant a tree when you get home. Spend a day cleaning a beach. You’ll feel better about your wasteful travel footprint afterwards. You can pat yourself on the back, too.

Anyway, don’t drink the water. You’ll probably get sick.

7. Don’t Miss Out on Upper Egypt!

The Pyramids are cool and all. This is obvious. Ancient, famous, enormous, historically significant, mysterious – what more can one wish for in an historic attraction? It’s hard to imagine traveling to Egypt and skipping the Pyramids, so don’t do that. But…

Great Hypostyle Hall Karnak Complex Luxor

Upper Egypt is incredible. From Luxor and the Valley of the Kings to Aswan and Abu Simbel, Upper Egypt far exceeded my expectations. The scale of the structures, craftsmanship and detail on display for thousands of years is incomprehensible.

Don’t allot too many days in and around Giza. Seeing the Pyramids is certainly worth the trip. Once you go south, though, it quickly becomes apparent why Upper Egypt is so impressive. Be sure to include it in your itinerary.

8. Give Cairo a Chance

Too many tourists exit the plane, collect their baggage, exit Cairo International Airport and head straight for Giza and the Pyramids. Often, Cairo isn’t given much of a thought. It’s not quite what most people imagine, and certainly not what we expected.

Walls of Coptic Cairo church

Despite the enormous city that exists today, Cairo has history, too. A lot. It’s well over 1000 years old and has been the cultural center of Egypt and an important city in the greater region for centuries.

History aside, it’s one of the largest cities in the world, home to over 20 million(!) people. That is something to see in itself. Oh, and there is some seriously great food in there, too. Most of the city is much cheaper than the tourist areas in which most visitors spend time.

falafel sandwich street food Cairo Egypt
Egypt – home of the best falafel in the world!

As an added bonus, tourists are largely ignored in Cairo. Away from the museums and landmarks, we spent a few days wandering the streets of Cairo where no one bothered us at all. For these reasons and more, take a couple of days in Cairo to eat and explore.

Hangry Backpacker Guide to Eating and Drinking in Cairo Egypt
A First-Timer’s Guide to Eating in Cairo

9. Take the Silly Tourist Photos

Time, money, courage (for some) – it takes a lot to travel all the way to Egypt. Forget when, you never know IF you’ll be back.

In addition to your stunning photography, take the silly photos, too. Friends and family might enjoy seeing it one day. Besides, everyone else, myself included, likely has the same great photos of the Sphinx or camels strolling by the Pyramids at sunset.

silly tourist photo at the pyramids in Egypt travel tips
definitely coerced, but there it is!

What I have that others do not are photos of myself. There is even be a cheesy pic or two. Years or decades from now, those pictures will probably more cherished than the ones where I was trying to be a NatGeo photographer.

10. Don’t Pay for Locals’ Tickets

You should not ever have to pay for your guide’s ticket. Legitimate, official guides in Egypt either do not have to pay for admission, have an annual pass or their tickets should be factored into their fees.

Ticket prices for Egyptians and Arabs are extremely cheap anyway, about one-tenth of the price that non-Arab tourists pay. Most Egyptian tour guides are excellent. They are knowledgeable, friendly, accommodating and trustworthy. If you have any doubt, make sure you know associated costs, i.e. entrance fees, for what you’re doing that day.

11. Keep Some Pocket Change on Hand

Sometimes, it’s the cost of doing your business. Even when you might assume use of a toilet is free, such as those at archaeological sites that you already paid to enter, that’s not necessarily the case.

Public toilets may charge a small fee. Or, the toilet may indeed be free, except for a bathroom attendant present who demands a tip. Call that ‘free’ if you wish…

12. Be Discreet with Your Cash

Egypt is generally a very safe place to travel. Tourists are a valued part of the economy. Thus, tourist safety is a high priority for law enforcement. However, the protection of tourists doesn’t extend to petty rackets. As its reputation accurately suggests, travel in Egypt regularly comes with scams. These can vary from small sums from “innocent” overcharging to hundreds of dollars for souvenirs.

Hangry Backpacker feeling rich after currency exchange
the wealth of currency exchange – don’t do this in public

Flashing or flaunting cash is unwise behavior in most places. The same goes for Egypt. Don’t make yourself a target for theft. Further, pulling out wads of money is a great way to ensure you are scammed or overcharged.

13. Beware of On-site Grifters

Don’t pay anyone inside any temple, tomb or other tourist site. If you’re past the entrance, you have already paid the necessary entrance fee. There is no other reason you should have to fork up more money.

Travel to Egypt comes with encountering touts and grifters. Somehow, every site in Egypt seems to come with people harassing tourists, hands out, asking for money, trying to sell you a piece of junk, telling you some likely-untrue tale or leading you to some “secret” spot. And they always demand a tip.

Tourists too often relent and pay the grifters to go away. Of course, this is ineffective. For one, this reinforces the behavior for the next group of tourist victims. Additionally, when you eventually pay an aggressive tout just to leave you alone, there is no guarantee they will.

The authorities rarely care about this. Hiring a guide is an excellent way to keep the touts and beggars at bay while also gaining access to tremendous information.

14. Don’t Pay Extra for a Guide at the Valley of the Kings

Guides are not allowed to accompany tourists into the tombs at the Valley of the Kings. Paying for a guide is really a waste of money. They are allowed to escort you as far as the entrance of each tomb but may not go in with you. The interior of tombs is unbelievably hot, and every additional person inside will only enhance the thickness of the air and increase the temperature.

Valley of the Kings tomb KV9 Rameses V
KV9, Tomb of Rameses V

Egyptian guides are a tremendous resource, and a guide may possess a wealth of information. Fortunately, each tomb at the Valley of the Kings has a sign posted at the entrance with a lot of information about what lies inside.

If you already have a guide to lead you through Egypt, that’s fine. Let the guide make the trip to the Valley of the Kings easy, and take the suggestions for which tombs to visit. Otherwise, there is no need to hire a guide specifically for this part of your trip.

15. Skip King Tut’s Tomb

Unless you have plenty of time at the Valley of the Kings to see all of the open tombs – in this instance, ‘plenty of time’ means you plan to visit multiple days – prioritize other tombs over King Tut’s Tomb (KV62).

King Tut may be the most celebrated pharaoh today, but he wasn’t back then. His tomb is simply not as cool as the others. With a finite amount of time, more spectacular tombs at the Valley of the Kings are far more impressive and worth your sweat and time.

Check out our guide for the Valley of the Kings, Luxor Temple & Karnak!

The Hangry Backpacker's travel info & tips for the sites of Luxor, Karnak and the Valley of the Kings in Ancient Egypt

16. Claustrophobes Beware!

If you are legitimately, severely claustrophobic, you may want to skip that visit to the Valley of the Kings. You will also want to exercise caution before agreeing to crawl into certain areas in Egypt.

Hangry Backpacker in a pyramid shaft at Saqqara Necropolis
Saqqara tomb shaft – didn’t last long in here

I’m mildly claustrophobic. The mere idea of someone jokingly stuffing me in a trunk or zipping me in a sleeping bag makes me very uncomfortable. But those are very small spaces. I didn’t think twice about entering the tombs in the Valley of the Kings, but it may make some people fairly uncomfortable. The chambers open at the Pyramids and Saqqara are also rather small. There’s not much to see in there, but keep that in mind.

17. Be Observant of Others’ Clothing

From Mrs. Hangry Backpacker: It is important to be situationally observant about what others are wearing. What is acceptable to wear at the beach isn’t necessarily okay at the Valley of the Kings. You don’t want to stand out and attract any more unwanted attention than tourists already do.

18. Eat Local

Egyptian food is good, and the prices are super cheap. Apprehensive tourists have a tendency in places like Egypt to not eat beyond the confines of their hotel premises.

plate of local food with rice and mutton in Cairo Egypt

Don’t be afraid to seek out good, local Egyptian food. It’s not on the same level as Italy or Thailand, and that’s okay. While sampling the local cuisine may not be a big draw to visit Egypt, it’s a fun part of traveling anywhere. Venture out and take a bite. You might be surprised.

Surviving the Sahara Heat

Egypt is hot. I don’t care where you’re from, blistering desert sun and regular temperatures of 114°F (45°C) and hotter is brutal. That was the high in Luxor a couple of days while we were there, and it was not even the hottest time of year. This kind of heat takes a toll on anyone.

I’m from a place that regularly hits 100°F with humidity over 90%. I may be more accustomed to heat than others, especially when the air is dry. It hasn’t rained in Luxor in over 10 years. It doesn’t get much drier than that, but that Sahara desert heat is something else.

Dealing with the heat is crucial to helping you enjoy your travel in Egypt. It’s also important to protect yourself from these harsh elements. Utilize the following heat-related Egypt travel tips to help manage the Sahara environment:

18. Sunscreen

The sun is always out. And the desert sun is ruthless. Pack sunscreen. It can be expensive in Egypt when you can find it, and you probably want to ensure that you have a trustworthy or preferred brand anyway.

19. Bring a Hat

Make sure to pack a hat. One with a large brim is better. A good summer hat to protect your head, face and neck can do wonders to shield your skin from the sun, and it makes a tremendous difference in keeping you cooler.

heat related travel tips in Egypt demonstrated by a tourist prepared for the heat
THIS is how you prepare for the Sahara heat

20. Pack Light-colored, Loose-fitting Clothing

High temperatures might have you consider packing a bag full of short shorts and tank tops. This isn’t the best idea. For one, it would be rather inconsiderate to walk around in skimpy clothes in much of Egypt. Muslim culture dominates. Although we saw many local women dressed in more Western fashion, I can’t recall seeing any pushing the limits very far. Within most hotels and resorts, this isn’t an issue.

Local custom aside, clothing choice is critical to manage the heat. Fabric that is lightweight and loose-fitting, such as light cotton or linen is a good choice. This dries quickly and a loose fit helps allow your skin to cool. Although it may seem counterintuitive, long sleeves (loose-fitting, of course) can actually keep you cooler than exposed skin.

Light colors are an obvious choice. You wouldn’t want to be wearing dark clothing that absorbs more light and heat while you’re out in the Egyptian sun.

21. Bring a Small Fan

A small, portable fan is typically something I would not suggest anyone pack on a trip. It’s usually a waste of space in a bag. In Egypt, however, a good little fan is a valuable thing to possess.

Hangry Backpacker with portable fan Egypt heat travel tips
the lifesaving portable fan

We visited museums that were not air-conditioned, and the stagnant air within really took its toll. There was also public transportation, which was pretty hot. On the Night Train from Cairo to Aswan, the air conditioning wasn’t the best. Even in the open air, a little extra breeze can help.

Your best bet is a small fan that is rechargeable, easily carried and easily stored in a day bag. Wearable neck fans are also good.

22. Sunglasses

Sunglasses seem like an obvious thing to pack. Personally, I brought two pairs with me, but I’m pretty particular about my shades.

A good pair of sunglasses that will protect your eyes from the sun is a necessity. Packing a second, cheap pair isn’t a bad idea. Seeing as Egypt is overwhelmingly desert, a bit of wind picking up can easily send a grain of sand toward your face. Nothing wrong with sunglasses doubling as a stylish bit of eye protection.

23. Hydrate!

The air of the Sahara desert is very hot and extremely dry. Sweat evaporates quickly in these conditions. Just because you may not feel that sweaty, you can still be losing a lot of fluid. Always have plenty of water on hand or nearby.

24. Don’t Forget Breakfast

Believe it or not, an empty stomach isn’t a great asset to possess before a day of touring open air archaeological sites in blistering heat and oppressive sun. Make sure to eat something in the morning. Don’t stuff yourself, but don’t set out on a totally empty stomach either.

25. Easy on the Booze

Limit the boozing before touring days. If you know you’re getting up the following morning to go tour an ancient temple, some ruins or whatever it may be, you don’t want to be dragging along in the Sahara heat with a hangover. Consider an easy night before days of exploring.

26. Seek Shade

Find shade. Take breaks.

If you’re like me, I get a bit excited in places like Egypt. There is so much to see, and it was so much more impressive than I imagined. My mentality is automatically ‘Go, go, go’ to see as much as possible.

I’m pretty heat tolerant. Even when the temperature was passing 110°F in the middle of the day, it didn’t slow me down. To be clear, I was always donning desert-friendly accouterments and drinking lots of water. Lucky for me, crowds are much thinner at the archaeological sites at this time.

Most people, however, are not this heat tolerant. Mrs. Hangry Backpacker, for instance, is nearly the opposite. She frequently needed to find bits of shade. Despite my tendency to keep exploring, I often forced myself to join her for my own safety. Desert heat can sneak up on you.

Hangry Backpacker in the shade of ancient temple ruins in Egypt
seek shade, pose for photo

For safety reasons, don’t hesitate to take breaks in the shade. The reality of traveling to Egypt is that you can’t possibly see it all. Even in a lifetime. Don’t test the Sahara.

27. A Small Umbrella

This might seem a silly thing to take to Egypt. It doesn’t rain much there. In fact, some areas go years or decades between brief showers. But that midday sun is something you can count on showing up. Shade can be extremely scarce at this time. Trees are uncommon, too.

If you’re especially sensitive to the heat, bring a small umbrella. Every additional protection against the sun is a valuable thing to have.


With the right preparation and cache of travel tips, visiting Egypt can be the trip of a lifetime. For many tourists, simply getting there can be a tedious process. Making the most of your time and knowing what to expect is a great way to help ensure that the adventure runs as smoothly as possible.

Sunset over the Nile River in Egypt
nothing like a Sunset over the Nile

Taking the time to research your destination is the best way to prepare for a place you’ve never been. There’s no substitute for being there in person, but acquiring information from first-hand sources is a great way to start your planning. Hopefully, these travel tips provide a little insight to what Egypt is like and what you may encounter. Above all, be observant, aware of your surroundings and have fun. Safe travels!

Filed Under: Get Lost

First Impressions of Barcelona: An Unpopular Opinion

December 26, 2024 By Hangry Backpacker Leave a Comment

The time came, and I was finally able to travel to Barcelona. The Catalan capital was never high on my travel list, but sure, I wanted to visit. Someday.

Placa Real Gothic Quarter Barcelona Spain

Over the course of several years, I heard from friends, relatives and other travel bloggers that Barcelona is nothing short of spectacular, cool, fun and, unequivocally, a “favorite place in Europe.”

The opportunity arose, and my wife and I made our way to Barcelona during a trip to Spain. Despite the hype and resounding endorsements, I tempered my expectations. I made an attempt to do so, anyway. To be fair, my knowledge of the city was limited mostly to Sagrada Familia, other Gaudi marks on the cityscape, FC Barcelona, the ‘92 Summer Olympics (which I was far too young to actually recall), beaches and the Catalan independence movement.

Of course, I did tons of research beforehand. By the time we got off the high-speed train from Madrid, there was a lot more that I wanted to check out.

After a week in the city, having checked off boxes and seeing much more, I couldn’t help feeling a little disappointed as we took the train back to Madrid. After all of the glowing reviews, that is what everyone is raving about?

Parts of the city are cool, the food is good and the weather is nice. Still, it certainly didn’t live up to the greatness about which I heard and read.

Barcelona, for me, did not live up to the hype. Before I get into the specifics, there is relevant background information that played a part in my experience and also impacts locals and other tourists.

For those who don’t know, Barcelona is the 2nd-largest city in Spain. Located in the northeast of the country along the Mediterranean Sea, it is the capital of the region of Catalunya, a region that is quite different from other areas of Spain. I’m not here to discuss Catalan politics, but it is an important thing to note about the city.

Catalan Flag draped on Balcony in Barcelona

Barcelona is one of the most popular tourist destinations in the world. Sources vary, but the city received an estimated 12-15 million tourists in 2023. That’s in addition to the roughly 1.6 million people who call the city home. And it’s not a sprawling city; in fact, Barcelona has a population similar to the cities of Munich and Philadelphia, but those cities cover 3 and 3.5 times more area, respectively.

In other words, Barcelona is an extremely densely-populated city, the most densely-populated in Europe. Essentially, that’s a large amount of people in a not-so-large space. Oh, and that’s before accounting for the 12-15 million additional visitors.

A tightly-packed urban center is not necessarily a bad thing. Sure, you can expect a lot of people, but it also ensures that you probably won’t have to go far to get from point A to point B. And you’re sure to find a fun, urban-living vibe to explore.

There’s definitely a vibe to the city, and that’s another important trait to note. I’ll get back to this later.

First, I want to break down different aspects of the city.

Stunning, Unique Architecture… Kind Of

Barcelona is noteworthy as the home of some peculiar and stunning architecture. Most famous for the mark architect Antoni Gaudi’s left on the city, Gaudi’s creations are rather few among the cityscape that is an urban center with millions of people and thousands upon thousands of buildings.

Gaudi Architecture Barcelona Spain travel

It’s cool to see the Gaudi buildings. I’ve only seen them in textbooks and on TV shows. So I sought them out, stood there and thought, “That’s really cool!.. now what?”

What I’m trying to say is that a couple of weird buildings stand out, but they are hardly representative of the city as a whole.

To be fair, there is some really cool architecture. To name an obvious choice, Sagrada Familia is spectacular and worth a visit. Whether or not it justifies a trip to Barcelona on its own – maybe, maybe not. We’ll have a guide posted about it soon, so be sure to keep a look out for that.

There are certainly other beautiful buildings to behold. But as a whole, Barcelona lacks the European charm in its architecture that attracts millions of visitors to other cities across the region.

Viewed from above, Barcelona is not the most beautiful city. In fact, it’s pretty bland. In truth, most of the city is not that old. What is interesting is the city planning and overall design. The purposely-designed city blocks in the Eixample district might be unsightly, but it is a brilliant planning idea. The corners of the blocks were cut off, making each ‘block’ an octagon and opening up sections of sidewalk and intersections. It gives the city a more open feel despite the overcrowding.

Octagonal City Blocks in Eixample Barcelona

While these octagonal blocks and other parts of the city are interesting, it’s largely pretty bland. From my perspective, the most attractive portions of Barcelona have been damaged by mass tourism.

This brings us to the next point of why Barcelona is a bit disappointing.

Too Many Tourists

Barcelona is overwhelmed by tourists. Yes, I recognize the irony (perhaps hypocrisy) of this point. I, too, was one of the “too many” tourists in Barcelona. The point remains true.

But I wanted to see for myself what the fuss was all about, and I was genuinely looking forward to the visit.

The tourists in this place are too many, especially in the city center, but it’s hard to escape massive crowds all over the place. And this is even when considering that I was told by a local that it was the offseason. Really, it was probably the shoulder season, but that’s splitting hairs.

crowded street of tourists in Barcelona
crowds upon crowds, even in the ‘low season’

Anyway, there are too many tourists in Barcelona. So many, in fact, that it takes away from the enjoyment of the city. The Gothic Quarter, truly the would-be coolest part of the city, has been trivialized by the hordes of people, troupes of drunken tourists and too many of the tacky tourist shops that belong in Vegas or on Bourbon Street.

In and around the Gothic Quarter, it’s street after street with tens of thousands of people. Throw in the occasional non-local harassing you to buy some knock-off piece of junk when you stop for a moment to try and appreciate a particular sight, it’s hard to enjoy. I can really understand why the people of Barcelona are fed up with overtourism.

Higher Prices

We didn’t travel to Barcelona to party. Maybe that was the mistake, but that’s not really where my interests lie. Hostels are always my preferred choice of accommodation, but it wasn’t a realistic option in Barcelona.

There is no shortage of hostels in Barcelona. I’m sure there are laid back options that aren’t party-focused, but I didn’t have any luck finding these. The options I came across seemed to highlight the nightlife. I enjoy the social aspects of hostels immensely, but it’s hard to adequately explain how little interest I have in clubs.

This isn’t exactly conducive to my style of travel – a version of aimless slow travel, led by curiosity, that largely centers around a personal culinary exploration.

Anyway, these kinds of hostels aren’t my style. Even if they were, the prices for a bed in a dorm were outrageous. Seeing the rates for private rooms left me scratching my head. Why would anyone pay over €100 a night to stay in a hostel? And these were prices in the so-called offseason.

Unfortunately, with hostels out of the equation, the focus turned toward hotels. There are hundreds, probably thousands, of hotels in Barcelona. These come in all shapes and varieties. I opted for a hotel about 30 minutes (walking) from the Gothic Quarter. Aside from this hotel, there was no obvious reason for tourists to be in the area.

Poblenou Neighborhood with new hotel among dilapidated buildings

The cost was a little more than €165 per night. It was nice but very small and bare bones. All in all, that’s not terrible. But when I factored in the distance from anything of interest and the lack of amenities, it looked a lot more expensive. However, for a decent, safe(ish), clean place, this was one of the few options. Anything better – be that a better location, inclusive of breakfast, nicer or whatever that may entail – was considerably more expensive.

To be fair, I’d rather spend €165 for a night in an uninspiring Barcelona neighborhood than the same price (probably higher) for a night next to a highway 20 miles outside of Nashville or Detroit. No offense to Nashville or Detroit, but I’m choosing Barcelona. Of course, comparable accommodation in either of those cities would be more expensive and less walkable than Barcelona anyway.

There were cheaper hotels available, but the choices were grim. In hindsight, I’m actually happy I wasn’t staying nearer to the Gothic Quarter, as I found much more enjoyment in other areas of Barcelona.

Food in Spain is generally affordable. You can get fantastic food for a fair price. Prices in Barcelona did seem higher to me than anywhere else I’ve been in the country. Obviously, this holds true near the tourist areas. Overall, meals were generally more affordable than much of the USA but less so than elsewhere in Spain.

If I were to make a detailed travel budget, I would probably allot daily costs in Barcelona roughly 30% more than Madrid and double what you might pay for a day in Andalucía.

There is No Offseason

Barcelona doesn’t really have much of an offseason. Traveling in early Spring, I predicted I would find the city quieter than peak travel times of Summer.

My hypothesis was found to be slightly accurate.

Apparently, this was the slower period of ‘low season’ in Barcelona. Could have fooled me.

Commenting to a local about the crowds and how I would have liked to visit during a quieter time, I was met with a laugh. “This is the low season and nothing compared to Summer.”

How could this be? There are streets where you can hardly traverse through the crowds. Most restaurants are packed. Prices are still high!

Upon further questioning, he explained that the tourists never really stop coming. Cooler months, times you might expect thinner crowds, see plenty of visitors hoping to escape the cold in their home country. It also attracts people like me, hoping to visit during a calmer time.

tourist crowds in a neighborhood square in Barcelona
no, it wasn’t cold (even in the ‘offseason’)

Summer – well, Summer just attracts everyone from everywhere. This includes more docking cruise ships, and they inundate the city with thousands of tourists each day.

What I learned in this brief back-and-forth was that Barcelona is always in-season. I don’t blame anyone for visiting whenever they so choose. Barcelona has great weather for much of the year and a vibrant culture in a beautiful region of Spain.

For me, however, it’s a serious turn off. I try to avoid excessive crowds. It’s not always practical, but that’s my preference.

Furthermore, I can’t help but feel for the locals. It’s hard to imagine how such large numbers of tourists impact the quality of life for residents. Sure, the bottom line goes up. But for whom? There are profits, yes, but I’ve delved into economics of the travel world enough to know that those benefiting from mass tourism in Barcelona are likely not the majority of Barcelonans.

For the record (again), I’m not a socialist or an anti-capitalist. I am pro-local. Whenever I can, I prefer my spending to go to locally-owned and operated small businesses.

Redemption

The millions of tourists who travel to Barcelona don’t ruin everything about this famous destination. There are certainly still reasons to visit, primarily the weather and food.

If one was determined to visit a Mediterranean metropolis with little concern otherwise, this is an easy choice. The weather is pleasant, and it is a city. Flights are abundant and frequently cheap. The best part about this might be to use Barcelona as a natural gateway to more interesting parts of Catalunya or the Spanish Mediterranean Coast.

What’s not bland in Barcelona is the food. Spanish food is good. Very good. It’s some of the best in the world, and that is something I will stand by forever. In Barcelona, the cuisine is a great blend of standard Spanish fare with a healthy dose of Catalan and Mediterranean influences.

Catalan cuisine of fish on bread with olives in Barcelona

Jamon is in ample supply, so there’s no need to worry about that. Most staples of Spanish cuisine are prevalent in Barcelona. Catalan specialties may not dominate menus like they do elsewhere in the region, but local eats are still there for the tasting. Tourism, among other things, is the likely cause for the preference and prevalence of non-Catalan food; however, local specialties are easier to find away from tourist areas.

It’s all about the hunt. With a little patience, you can find those great local spots to relax and enjoy the cuisine of Barcelona. Stay tuned for our Barcelona Food Guide coming soon!

So What is the Attraction of Barcelona?

Remember that “vibe” I mentioned earlier? I think that is what attracts people to this Mediterranean metropolis.

Parts of the city are old and attractive, yes, but it’s not like walking through a giant open air museum, a la Rome. The streets don’t have the charm of a town in Provence, the history of Prague or beauty of Amsterdam. Personally, I think other cities in Spain like Granada or Seville are far more interesting.

Rather, the attraction of Barcelona for so many people is the vibe. The free-spirited, laze-in-the-sun-between-nights-of-partying atmosphere – I think this is what attracted so many of the people who shared their first-hand love affair of Barcelona with me.

That attitude sounds fine to me. I get it. It’s a chill place to be with nice weather and plenty of fun to be had. The food is great.

I suppose I have a different idea of fun and different travel priorities. That’s okay, too.

Barcelona, Round 2?

With the let down of my visit, would I ever consider another trip to Barcelona?

Yes. Absolutely. I honestly hope to return.

It’s not a high priority, but I did find areas of Barcelona that I enjoyed. And, while a week in a small area does afford one plenty of time to get a thorough taste, I am well aware that there remains a lot of the city which I did not experience.

Placa de la Vila Gracia neighborhood on sunny day Barcelona
Placa de la Vila, Gracia

I was not miserable, nor did I ever let my optimism or excitement at the start of each day fade. When the food is good, I always manage to enjoy myself in the moment. It was/is upon reflection at the end of each day and since our visit that I have the feeling of being underwhelmed. It is entirely possible to enjoy yourself just about anywhere, even when the destination might not live up to its reputation. My wife and I had a fun trip, and she very much liked the city.

Barcelona will also serve as a good base to explore the surrounding area. Should I have the opportunity to one day see more of Catalunya, which is high on my list, it’s only natural that would include more time in Barcelona.

Although it is struggling to cope with overtourism, Spain’s most popular tourist destination has its redeeming qualities. The unique blend of Catalan and greater Spanish cuisine is excellent. The weather is an undeniable attraction. Less tourism-inundated neighborhoods of the city maintain, at least for the time being, a certain undeniable appeal.


Travel is about having our own, unique experiences exploring the world. If every trip was the same, there would be little reason to get off the couch. The internet and books would suffice.

Thankfully, no two travel experiences are identical.

Barcelona was a disappointment for my first visit. Based on the millions of people who have a starkly different opinion, though, I can surmise that my opinion is very much in the minority.

bocadillo and Estrella beer in a Barcelona cafe
bocadillo y cerveza – the simplest reason I’ll always return to Spain

That said, it’s important to remember that most of the travel content we see is a cherry-picked, polished glimpse into a much larger adventure. The negative side of travel is less broadcasted. Sharing of the mundane aspects is even less frequent.

Most of what I see and hear about Barcelona is nothing short of travel paradise. My visit reminded me, once more, that sometimes you have to see something for yourself. It’s far from a perfect tourist destination, and I believe this is important to share, too.

Spain is one of my favorite travel destinations in the world. I’ve been there multiple times, and I plan to return again and again. Barcelona may not be my favorite place in Spain, but I will keep an open mind. I look forward to the next visit and the all-important second impression.

Filed Under: Get Lost

Exploring Ancient Egypt: Luxor, Karnak & the Valley of the Kings

August 14, 2024 By Hangry Backpacker 1 Comment

The temples, ruins and historic sites around Luxor are the most spectacular parts of visiting Ancient Egypt. That’s right. Even when considering the Pyramids and the Great Sphinx in Giza, nothing from Ancient Egypt comes close to Luxor Temple, the Valley of the Kings and the Karnak Temple Complex.

huge statues of Ancient Egypt at Luxor Temple

The Pyramids are huge and extremely famous. They are absolutely interesting, and visiting them is an unforgettable experience, but the sites of Ancient Egypt in and around Luxor are on a different level.

For those unaware, Upper Egypt is actually Southern Egypt. “Upper” refers to the direction of the northerly-flowing Nile River, this area of Egypt being UPstream on the Nile.

The ruins of long-time ancient capital Thebes (Waset to ancient Egyptians) lie on the banks of the Nile within present-day Luxor, the largest city in Southern/Upper Egypt. It is a fairly densely populated city with a little less than 1.5 million people. For comparison, the density is only slightly less than Cairo, which is one of the largest, most densely populated areas in the world.

In other words, the city of Luxor, while crowded, does not cover a very large area. As always, life in Egypt is close to the river. For most visitors, their time will be spent in areas near the Nile River. Most hotels are close to the river, and the temple complexes of Luxor and Karnak are right there.

Before we get to it, this is a travel blog to share stories, information and tips. We are not a travel agency, nor are we a tour service. I understand what it’s like trying to search for travel information about the famous sites of Ancient Egypt. Navigating through the dozens of pages and websites that are ultimately selling tours and excursions is frustrating. It’s difficult to know what is authentic and trustworthy. All of the information here is based on our own research and our personal experiences at Luxor Temple, Karnak and the Valley of the Kings.

Luxor Temple viewed from the Nile River

Luxor Temple

Luxor Temple is right next to the Nile River. It is literally across the street. For the many visitors who reach Luxor via river cruise, most of the ships dock right there, within steps of the temple.

Entrance of Luxor Temple with the sun setting over the Nile in Egypt

Luxor Temple Complex is over 3000 years old, initially constructed during the reign of Amenhotep the Great and expanded over thousands of years. Even King Tut left his mark on the complex. And, of course, the structures were utilized by the Greeks and Romans when they conquered Egypt.

The history of Luxor Temple is long, intertwining several empires, and it’s fascinating. Such an abundance of history can be overwhelming, though. It’s impractical for most visitors to travel to Egypt and absorb all of the information. Truthfully, most visitors grow numb to the inundation of facts, tales and legends. Realistically, people devote their entire lives to the history in this region and can’t learn and discover everything.

Others may simply not be interested. I’m not of the same mind, but that’s okay. How one enjoys their trip isn’t really my concern. Except for the wannabe-influencer photo shoots – that is thoroughly cringeworthy and annoying.

Anyway, the best way to approach your visit to Luxor Temple (and other places) is simply to enjoy it. Don’t stress about learning and seeing everything. It’s not disrespectful. It’s practical. Factoring in the abundance of information, the stress of aggressive touts and the oppressive Egyptian heat, it can be exhausting. Just have fun.

Hangry Backpackers at the Avenue of Sphinxes in Luxor Egypt
just outside the entrance to Luxor Temple

Luxor Temple sits in the heart of Luxor. It’s not especially large and is fairly well-preserved. It does get crowded when the cruise ships unload their passengers, especially at night. The best way to enjoy the temple is with patience. We all want photos of the site, and it can be frustrating when so many people find their way into every shot.

What I appreciate about Luxor Temple is how close it is to the Nile River. The setting is picturesque, to say the least, with famous ancient ruins situated on the banks of the very river that has provided sustenance to nearby residents for thousands of years. The Nile River is the lifeblood of Egypt, and Luxor Temple’s location highlights that.

The late afternoon sun highlights the temple in the best way. Make sure to enjoy the scene during one of Egypt’s spectacular sunsets.

Sunset in Luxor Egypt

Even more remarkable is that Luxor Temple has survived for so long. To stroll through the temple and marvel at the architecture, artistry and resilience of the structure is impressive. Glancing in one direction and seeing one of the world’s most important and powerful rivers a stone’s throw away furthers the notion of the temple’s resilience.

Rivers like the Nile provide, but they are also extremely powerful. The dry weather in Egypt is known for preserving the ancient, but one might assume that the power of the Nile River would have a negative effect. However, evidence suggests that many ancient sites were actually protected by the river.

Ruins of Luxor Temple columns in Egypt

Seasonal floods came and deposited silt, which often buried and sealed off remnants of the ancient world for long periods of time. When sites were fully excavated, it became apparent that the harsh elements, including the water of the Nile, acted as preservatives. Thankfully, many of these spectacular pieces of human culture and history were found at the right times and cared for appropriately.

Avenue of Sphinxes

One of the most spectacular sights in Egypt is the Avenue of Sphinxes. An ancient avenue that connects Luxor and Karnak, nearly two miles long, the entire path is lined with statues on either side.

Avenue of Sphinxes in Luxor at Sunset

Some of the statues are rams, and others are criosphinx, which is a combination of a lion’s body with a ram’s head. The majority are the familiar sphinx, a lion’s body with a human head.

These are not the grandest statues. Compared to the famous Great Sphinx in Giza, they are quite small, but the sight is awesome. That is not to say these are miniature sphinxes. Each one is solid stone, over 6 feet tall and more than 12 feet long.

Individual statue of the Avenue of Sphinxes with the sun setting behind

There are 1057 sphinxes, criosphinxes and rams in total.

Let’s put that into perspective. Thousands of years ago, in a time without mechanical power or tools, Ancient Egyptians extracted literal tons of stone, transported it to present-day Luxor and carved it into a perfect statue. And then did this 1056 more times. Each style of statue is identical and perfectly spaced from one another in a straight line nearly two miles long.

That is an incredible feat of engineering and craftsmanship. And it’s merely the road that connects two large temples, each imposing and magnificent in its own right.

While some of the statues were known and visible in recent history, the entire road between Luxor and Karnak was not completely excavated and open until 2021.

This is a great example of a massive piece of ancient history that has only recently been fully realized, and this is precisely why many people find Egypt an interesting place to visit. From an historic and touristic standpoint, it is constantly changing and developing. It is certainly not a “one and done” destination where you can check off all the boxes in a single trip.

The Avenue of Sphinxes, thousands of years old, stretching for such a great distance is not only an incredible feat of engineering. Perhaps the most extraordinary aspect is that it has survived so long. With the decline of Ancient Egypt, the road was gradually covered in sand. Lucky for us, the elements of nature and the course of history have preserved this stunning archaeological site.

Avenue of Sphinxes in Luxor Egypt illuminated by the sunset

One of the things I wish to do the most upon my return to Egypt is walk the entire length of the Avenue of the Sphinxes. At the time of my visit, the heat was taking its toll and time was limited. If you are able to walk the entire length, do it.

Karnak Temple Complex

At the other end of the Avenue of Sphinxes, opposite of Luxor Temple, is the Karnak Temple Complex. Approximately two miles away, Karnak is an enormous site.

Entrance of ancient Karnak Temple Complex in Luxor Egypt

Karnak is approximately 250 astounding acres of history. And, honestly, it’s hardly reasonable for the average tourist to absorb even a fraction of the history here. This is partially due to the scale of the site, but also because, from our current perspective, we view this as a single ancient site. What we view through our current lens of time as an individual ancient complex is, more accurately, the remains of several temples, monuments and shrines that were constructed during the reigns of several generations of pharaohs over many centuries.

The oldest portion of Karnak dates back almost 4000 years. Most of the site is at least 3000 years old, though there are some “newer” additions a mere 2000 years old.

There are many remarkable sights at Karnak. There are several ancient temples, varying from shockingly well-preserved to thoroughly ruined. One of the largest surviving obelisks of the ancient world is also found at Karnak. There is a sacred lake, which I am, admittedly, ignorant of its precise significance.

Ancient Obelisks and ruins of Karnak Temple Complex in Luxor Egypt

Adjacent to the lake is a statue of a scarab, the famous dung beetle of Ancient Egypt. The importance of this particular statue remains a mystery to me, but it can easily be found. There are people walking around it in circles, hoping that, after 7 revolutions, their greatest wish will come true.

Scarab beetle statue at Karnak Temple Complex
the famous scarab!

Like Luxor Temple, Karnak sits with direct access to the Nile River. The large, open promenade between the river and the complex leads to a large pylon (the large entrance/facade of a temple complex). The entrance is lined with more small sphinxes and rams and opens into an open space like a big courtyard. The perimeter is lined with columns and statues and would be a cool sight in its own right. Beyond this area is one of the most spectacular remnants of Ancient Egypt.

Criosphinxes in the courtyard of Karnak Temple Complex in Egypt

The Great Hypostyle Hall

The Great Hypostyle Hall is a jaw-dropping sight to witness. What must have been the centerpiece of the Karnak Temple Complex is a collection of massive ancient columns spread across more than 50,000 square feet of area. The pillars are huge, some more than 30 feet in circumference and 70 feet tall. The columns vary in size, but the larger ones weigh 100 tons. For reference, a single column weighs more than multiple school buses.

Columns with detailed reliefs and inscriptions at the Great Hypostyle Hall at Karnak Temple Complex in Egypt

Beyond the magnitude, the intricate detail and the beauty of the Great Hypostyle Hall is the mind-blowing engineering feat required to construct it. It would be easy to spend hours sitting there, pondering how it came together. The columns themselves are obviously massive, heavy objects. And there are a lot of them, 134 in total. How they managed to extract the stone, transport it, shape and raise these columns – by the way, they did it so precisely that they have lasted over 3000 years – with minimal tools and nothing but manpower and animals, it’s difficult to comprehend.

This, in itself, is an incogitable accomplishment. However, it’s not only the design and erection of over 100 gigantic columns that piques one’s curiosity and amazement. Originally, the Great Hypostyle Hall had a roof. This has not survived, but the beams that supported the roof have. The beams weigh a staggering 140,000 pounds, over 70 tons.

Great Hypostyle Hall of giant columns at Karnak Temple Complex in Luxor Egypt

How exactly the Great Hypostyle Hall was constructed is a matter of debate for scholars and archaeologists. There are theories involving levers and ramps, among other hypotheses. The truth may lie somewhere in the debate, but I can be certain that this was an enormous task. Loading, raising and balancing massive columns and beams in place so perfectly that they can withstand thousands of years of nature and human life – the difficulty of this project cannot be overstated.

Each column is also covered in inscriptions that detail accounts of important historical events regarding the pharaohs who oversaw the construction. Many of these inscriptions have survived. For historians, this is a treasure trove of information. For the layman, the scene is an ancient work of art. When I inquired why they repainted some of the scenes on the columns and not all of them, I was quickly informed that this was, in fact, the original paint.

upward view of ancient columns in the Great Hypostyle Hall of Karnak Temple Complex in Luxor Egypt

That tiny fact struck me. In addition to the structures and inscriptions, even the paint surviving – through times of war, conquest and the ever-present harsh desert environment – wow!

As I stared upward, likely with a slack jaw and perplexion visible on my face, I could not help but let my mind wonder about it all. With contemporary knowledge of science, would we be able to recreate the structure today without modern mechanical tools? Even three millenia later, it would assuredly be an impressive achievement.

Karnak is a magnificent piece of ancient history. Although it is certainly not forgotten, this complex deserves more attention than it receives.

Valley of the Kings

The Valley of the Kings is one of the most famous ancient sites in the world. In the frame of Ancient Egypt, it is nearly as famous as the Pyramids of Giza and the Great Sphinx.

corridor of Merenptah Tomb KV8 at the Valley of the Kings in Egypt

Much of the notoriety of the Valley of the Kings is due to the 1922 discovery of the tomb of Tutankhamen. King Tut’s tomb, which was found nearly intact and barely disturbed (looted) in the more than 3000 years since his death, showed the world a glimpse into the immense wealth of Ancient Egypt’s pharaohs.

Compound the now-visible wealth of Ancient Egyptian Royalty with the fact that King Tut was, in the grand scheme of Ancient Egypt, a rather minor pharaoh, imaginations began to run wild. Interest in Ancient Egypt grew immensely. If this guy was not a major historical figure, more significant pharaohs must have had incomprehensible riches in their tombs.

Then there is the belief that there may be more tombs yet to be discovered. Egypt has a long history. There were a lot of rich, powerful people who died and didn’t want to part with their worldly possessions. What else might remain hidden?

Oh, and there are plenty of peculiar deaths and supposed curses associated with digging up these ancient sites.

All of this factored into the Valley of the Kings achieving notoriety as a fascinating and mysterious site. Naturally, as travel to distant places has become easier over the last century, the Valley of the Kings has become a popular stop on tours of Egypt.

The reality of visiting the Valley of the Kings as a tourist isn’t quite as exciting as all of the history and mystery, but it is one of the most wondrous archaeological sites in Egypt. In a land with thousands of years of visible, documented history, that is saying a lot.

So what exactly is the Valley of the Kings?

Essentially, it’s a small area within the larger Thebes necropolis (burial site) for royalty and nobility. The necropolis also includes the Valley of the Queens and the Mortuary Temple of Hatshepsut, among other historic sites.

For over 400 years, Egyptian kings, queens, their families and some members of the nobility were buried in elaborate tombs in the area. Generally speaking, the tombs date back approximately 3000-3500 years ago.

The Valley of the Kings is little more than a wadi, an area where rainfall collects, drains and erodes the landscape over time. It appears like a small canyon but lacks any permanent presence of water. And rain in this area is extremely rare. At the time of my visit, Luxor had not had a drop of rain in 10 years!

Frankly, if one were walking through the area, tomb entrances undiscovered and not yet visible, there is nothing to see. It is a rugged, harsh area. Pure desert. You’re surrounded by rocks, dirt and sun. Forget about greenery, shade or water.

exterior view of the Valley of the Kings in Egypt amidst the harsh environment of the Sahara Desert

Thankfully, this is not the case. The area has been explored and excavated. Aside from the tombs, there is still nothing around, but what lies beneath the surface more than makes up for the barren landscape.

Burial Chamber of Tomb KV9 at Valley of the Kings Egypt

In total, there are currently 65 tombs at the Valley of the Kings. “Currently” is the key word here. Multiple tombs have been discovered in the 21st Century, and records from 1500 BC are probably not the most reliable or extant sources. Archaeologists are still exploring, searching and excavating the area, so it’s entirely possible further fantastic discoveries are in the future.

The treasures and mummies that once rested in tombs of the Valley of the Kings have long been stolen, lost or relocated to museums. As unfortunate as this is, what was left behind may be even more monumental than gold and jewels.

Don’t let the unassuming entrances deceive you. For starters, these aren’t small crypts. The largest known tomb is that of Rameses II. It has 120 known rooms. Unfortunately, it is still being excavated and isn’t open to the public. Another notably large tomb is the tomb of Rameses III, which is open and is over 600 feet long. The tombs aren’t small, so hopefully this helps provide some comfort for curious claustrophobes.

Entrance chamber of tomb KV9, the tomb of Rameses V and Rameses VI at the Valley of the Kings in Egypt with colorful ancient art and inscriptions on the walls

Once inside, the tombs are decorated from wall to wall, ceiling to floor. They are designed with reliefs, paintings, hieroglyphics and art that tells stories and history. The vivid colors inside the tombs are the original, 3000-year-old strokes of paint.

Colorful art and hieroglyphics in Tomb KV9 at the Valley of the Kings in Egypt

The Valley of the Kings is sort of like a collection of dozens of adjacent subterranean ancient art galleries, each unique with its own history and tales. There is truly no place in the world like it. The idea of tiny, dusty old tombs is far from reality, and seeing these pieces of history up close is one of the coolest things you can do in Egypt.


Essential Egypt Travel Tips by the Hangry Backpacker
27 Essential Egypt Travel Tips

What’s So Special about the Sites in Upper Egypt?

Why is Upper Egypt a more interesting place to visit than the Pyramids, Sphinx and everything around the complex in Giza?

There are several reasons. Here are a few:

Ancient Upper Egypt is in Better Shape

In my opinion, the archaeological sites in Upper Egypt are in much better condition. There are definitely areas that fully qualify as ruins, but preservation and restoration is much more apparent.

To be clear, this is not limited to the area around ancient Thebes and modern-day Luxor. Aswan, Edfu, Kom Ombo, Abu Simbel, Esna and more – many cities and towns along the Nile in Upper Egypt are home to remarkable pieces of history.

There are a couple of obvious reasons for this. Lower Egypt, i.e. Cairo and Alexandria, has been far more developed since ancient times. Growing populations and urban areas naturally sacrifice marks of antiquity. They are demolished or concealed through urban growth. Crucially important agricultural endeavors take priority.

Another impact of geography is that Lower Egypt is much closer and more accessible to conquering empires throughout history. Armies and civilizations spent less time hundreds of miles south when the need wasn’t there.

The Pyramids are an excellent example. Nearly the entire once-bright-and-shiny facade of the Great Pyramid was dismantled to build the medieval citadel of Cairo and other projects. Many ancient structures and cities in southern Egypt were largely spared this level of destruction. There are exceptions, of course; and to see these exceptions in person (much to the indignation of Egyptians), all you have to do is visit places like Rome, New York City, London or Istanbul to witness spectacular monuments of Ancient Egypt withering away in the middle of modern cities.

The Pyramids are also older. That, undeniably, makes them even more impressive, but time takes its toll and erodes the details.

There is also more substance surrounding sites of Ancient Egypt like Luxor, Karnak and the Valley of the Kings. This, in part, is due to all of the aforementioned effects that impacted the ruins up north. However, in my opinion, the artistry and craftsmanship that is visible in the temples, tombs and other archaeological sites in Upper Egypt is more impressive today.

Wall of ancient Hieroglyphics in a tomb at the Valley of the Kings

To be fair, some of the famous sites have been restored to the point where they aren’t ancient at all. For instance, large portions of the Mortuary Temple of Hatshepsut (seen below), which is more famous in the 21st Century for hosting fashion shows, aren’t all that ancient. The temple is still beautiful, and there are ancient parts, but, personally, I’m not fond of over-restoration.

Mortuary Temple of Hatshepsut in Egypt

None of this is to suggest that the Pyramids are not worth seeing. They are. Rather, I find the visibly-preserved detail at sites around Luxor to be extraordinary. And it’s still extremely old.

Smaller Crowds

The historic sites and attractions in Upper Egypt are generally much less crowded than those in the Cairo/Giza area. The crowd sizes in Upper Egypt vary slightly based on the time of year and the time of day, but the Pyramids never really have a down time. Understandably so, the whole area is pretty much always busy. From open to close.

Generally speaking, when the cruise ships dock, sites in Upper Egypt get busy. For example, Edfu Temple is located in the small city of Edfu. The densely populated city is extremely impoverished. The ancient temple is the only point of interest, and the city is virtually devoid of tourists except in the brief hours when the river-cruising tourists descend upon Edfu. When the boats aren’t there, you can explore Edfu nearly to yourself.

Entrance to Temple of Edfu in Upper Egypt with very few tourists
entrance to the Temple of Edfu – Ancient Egypt without the crowds!

Side note: This is a perfect example of how cruise tourism barely helps the communities in which ships dock. Despite the fact that thousands of tourists visit Edfu Temple each day, there are only a handful of hotels in the city of 60,000 people, and most of these would scare away the typical tourist. Aside from the souvenir stalls at the temple, there aren’t even any tourist shops. No tourist-focused restaurants. Cruises dock. Passengers unload and take a horse-drawn buggy through the dusty streets and straight to the temple. After touring the temple, they go right back. It is abundantly clear that the city and people of Edfu see little, if any, benefit from this.

Anyway, the point of mentioning the river cruises docking in Edfu is to demonstrate that if you want to avoid crowds at temples along the Nile, the opportunities are there. This principle can be applied to Luxor Temple and Karnak as well, though to a lesser degree.

The seasonal flux of tourist arrivals is also more noticeable in Upper Egypt. Temperatures are even hotter down south, thus thinning the crowds slightly during Summer months.

Another Side of Egypt

The Pyramids receive nearly 10 times the annual amount of visitors than Valley of the Kings, over 14 million compared to about 1.5 million.

Located adjacent to Cairo and much closer to Europe, a trip to the Pyramids isn’t a long trek for many tourists, whereas venturing a few hundred miles south requires significantly more time. Cairo is a fascinating megacity, and I would encourage any curious traveler to visit, but that is only one side of Egypt.

Even from the confines of a river cruise or site-hopping from one ancient site to another, it’s inevitable that a trip to the archaeological sites around Luxor, Aswan or somewhere in between will present a different side of Egypt to a traveler. Seeing more of a destination is worthwhile and, in my opinion, a very important part of travel.

England is more than London. Japan, more than Tokyo. The USA, more than New York City. And Egypt is certainly more than Cairo. Traveling to and through areas that aren’t the holiday objective helps us to understand the history better. Even brief glimpses of areas outside of our tourist bubbles provide an excellent way to better understand a people and their nation today.

On top of all this, Upper Egypt has some of the most fantastic sunsets I’ve ever seen. The desolate landscapes are beautiful. It’s worth the extra time.

When and How Long?

How much time do you need to visit Karnak, Luxor Temple and the Valley of the Kings?

This question can be answered simply: As much time as you can stand.

It would be easy to spend an entire day at each of these famous sites. The length of time you should spend at each comes down almost entirely to the heat and your tolerance of oppressive temperatures.

Egypt is extremely hot. Upper Egypt is hotter than most other areas. As mentioned above, you can forget about rain, and cloud cover is also uncommon. The desert sun here is relentless.

Luxor Temple

Visiting Luxor Temple doesn’t require as much time. It is the smallest of the major sites in the area. You can rush through in less than an hour, or you can spend 2-3 hours leisurely working your way through. Much of this depends on the time of day.

When it’s busier, it can take longer to see particular parts of the temple and get the photos you want. On the other hand, you can enjoy it further without the crowds.

Dusk is the most popular time to visit Luxor Temple. Temperatures are growing more pleasant, and this is when many of the river cruises dock and release their passengers. It is crowded after dark, but the temple illuminated by lights is a pretty spectacular scene.

Crowds of tourists gathered outside the entrance to Luxor Temple

If you want to avoid the crowds, I suggest visiting Luxor Temple during the daytime. It can be extremely hot, so make sure you are prepared, but the heat creates noticeably sparser crowds. The complex isn’t that large and is centrally located, making it a little easier to seek relief from the sun before and after your visit.

A morning visit may be a reasonable compromise. Keep in mind that mornings are still hot, and it will be busier than later in the day.

Karnak

As long as you can stand. This site is astonishing, but there are few areas that offer protection from the sun. Even the on-site museum is hot. It is indoors and has air conditioning, but it was hardly noticeable.

Heat aside, I suggest spending as much time at Karnak as you can. This is truly a remarkable place. The size alone warrants a fair amount of time. The added history, beauty and constant wow-factor around each corner only calls for more time.

Ancient art and inscriptions on the columns of the Great Hypostyle Hall Karnak Egypt

Realistically, a few hours is more than enough time to visit Karnak for your first visit. Weather aside, it’s a lot to absorb. In 2-4 hours, you can learn a lot, appreciate the achievement, take more than enough photos and still manage to conserve enough energy to function.

Valley of the Kings

The temperature was 114°F (45.6°C) the day we visited. That’s extremely hot. You might think that entering the tombs, underground and sheltered from the sun, would offer a pleasant respite. To my surprise, the tombs are even hotter. There is virtually no ventilation, so the air is heavy. Naturally, we were already a little sweaty when we reached the entrance to the first tomb. Within 30 seconds of entering, my clothes were completely soaked and sweat was dripping from every pore on my body. Exiting the tombs back to the 114°F air somehow felt refreshing.

When the tour buses arrive and thousands of people descend upon the tombs, the air within grows more unpleasant. It is really saying something that it is more comfortable when you step outside into the extreme heat of the Sahara.

With that in mind, it is crucial to arrive at the Valley of the Kings as early as possible. Not only will the temperatures outside be slightly cooler, the interior heat of the tombs will be slightly more manageable. On top of that, you will likely have many of the tombs all to yourself.

We arrived early and were able to explore the tombs without ever having to wait in a line and rarely having to wait for people to move for the best photos.

Taking photos in a tomb at the Valley of the Kings
no one in the photo!

It would be easy to spend days at the Valley of the Kings and wander through the many tombs. Unfortunately, there are usually only 7 (sometimes 8) tombs open at any given time. This is to ensure that tombs don’t see too much foot traffic which, inevitably, affects the structures. It also allows time for the closed tombs to be cared for – cleaned, restored, studied and whatever else that might entail.

Since you are only allowed to visit 3 tombs with a general ticket and a maximum of 7 tombs total, you can only spend so much time at the Valley of the Kings. Factor in the heat and the crowds that come and go throughout the day, a few hours will be sufficient for most people to visit. If you’re determined to see as much as possible, you could more leisurely explore the tombs and simply take breaks between each. The ‘cafe’ on site has shade, fans and cold beverages.

Costs

Depending on your method of travel, tickets will be the primary expense to visit Luxor Temple, the Karnak Temple Complex and the Valley of the Kings. The variance in costs factors in when considering transportation and guides.

Note: A ticket to either Karnak or Luxor Temple should allow you to walk the length of the Avenue of Sphinxes. Also, some sites may offer student discounts. Bring your student ID if you have one.

Luxor Temple

Luxor Temple is the easiest of these Ancient Egyptian archaeological sites to visit in the area. It’s location is within easy walking distance of most accommodation, and it is centrally located.

Tickets to enter Luxor Temple are £260 EGP, about $5 USD, for foreigners. A guided tour will cost extra.

Karnak

Karnak Temple Complex can be reached on foot for free. It isn’t as centrally located as Luxor Temple, but it’s not far. This depends on whether or not you want to walk the distance in the heat.

You can cheaply get a taxi to Karnak from anywhere in Luxor. The trip will only be a few minutes and cost a few dollars at most.

Tickets to Karnak cost £360 EGP, about $7 USD, for foreigners. A guided tour will cost extra.

Valley of the Kings

For the Valley of the Kings, most visitors arrive as part of larger groups. This is evident based on the number of tour buses in the parking lot. Others hire private guides, while some choose to visit independently.

General tickets to visit 3 of the 7 open tombs typically cost around $10 USD. The Egyptian Pound has been fluctuating and unpredictable in recent months, so it’s difficult to state the price with any lasting accuracy. That said, general tickets cost £600 EGP (~$12 USD at time of writing).

That’s a great deal! But, as one learns to anticipate in Egypt, it’s not the whole story.

For starters, your main transportation is only allowed to take you to the parking lot. Beyond the ticket checkpoint to the tombs is a distance of about one-half mile, and there is a shuttle that takes visitors to the tombs. You can walk if you want (I think, but I didn’t see anyone walking). It’s Egypt, so the shuttle is not included in the ticket price, but it’s less than $1 USD per person. And that half mile walk would be in the heat, dust and not flat. Save time and pay for the shuttle.

Again, this is Egypt. The costs don’t end there!

The general ticket includes admission to certain tombs. If you want to visit the tomb of King Tut or one of the more elaborate tombs, such as the combined tomb of Rameses V and Rameses VI (tomb KV9), there is an additional fee. Additional fees only amount to an extra few dollars.

Detailed decorations of Tomb of Rameses III at the Valley of the Kings in Egypt

My sincere advice is pay the extra fees. Even if you wind up spending $25 on entrance fees, that’s a great price to visit this wonderful site.

Overall, tickets to Valley of the Kings (including the shuttle and add-ons) should be about $20-25 USD.

Most large tour groups will handle your tickets. All you have to do is follow along.

For those visiting with a private guide, bear in mind that tour guides are not allowed to accompany you into the tombs. Most of them will give you some information, point you in the correct direction and head for the on-site cafe for shade, tea and a smoke, leaving you free to explore the tombs.

If you’ve hired a guide for a single day, you will still be expected to tip them. If your guide is leading you over a longer period, you can wait until the end of your trip to tip.

Independent travelers will have to join a small group tour or find a taxi. Taxis can be easily found in Luxor. Uber is great in Egypt and extremely cheap. However, it’s probably best to hire a taxi given that it’s unlikely you’ll have reception or WiFi at the Valley of the Kings for a return Uber. Taxis will cost you about $10-15 USD each way, or you can pay for the day. You should be able to hire a taxi for the trip there, to wait for you and take you back for NO MORE than $30 USD.

Hotels in Luxor

Many tourists reach Luxor via Nile River Cruise. If this is the case for you, there may not be a need to book a hotel in Luxor. If you are spending an extra day in Luxor before or after your cruise, there are plenty of hotels from which to choose. These vary from cheap, family-run guesthouses to extravagant resorts.

My inclination is to suggest staying close to Luxor Temple. That said, transportation (discussed further below) is plentiful and inexpensive. Perhaps Luxor is a great opportunity to stay in a fancy hotel for a great price. In particular, the Sofitel Winter Palace, an historic hotel overlooking Luxor Temple, looks like an excellent place to splurge for a couple of nights. In hindsight, I wish we stayed a couple of extra nights here.

Luxor Transportation

Local Transportation

For those traveling in large groups or with a private guide, you won’t have to worry much, if at all, about transportation in Luxor. This will all be handled for you.

For independent travelers, getting around the city will be more exciting. You’ll get to see more and figure things out for yourself. Personally, I love this part of travel. Getting around Luxor, if you’re going farther than your feet can take you, will be cheap. Taxis are cheap and abundant. Just make sure to confirm any price before you get into the cab. Uber is also cheap, and it’s easy. Oh, and don’t forget to tip.

Long Distance Transportation

Reaching Luxor from other places in Egypt is fairly simple. You can reach the city via bus from Aswan, Cairo, Hurghada and probably everywhere in between. Buses in Egypt are hit-or-miss in terms of comfort and reliable travel times, so I would suggest avoiding them when possible.

An alternative to the bus is the train. You can take the Night Train from Cairo or Aswan. It’s comfortable and straightforward.

Lastly, flying is also an option. Flights to Luxor from Cairo are about an hour in length and tickets (one-way or round trip) are almost always less than $100. You can fly to Luxor from other locations in Egypt, though regular flights are not always direct, frequently requiring a layover in Cairo. In these instances, it may be wise to consider alternatives.

Luxor International Airport also has flights to Europe around the year. In the cooler months, the airport sees an increase in seasonal flights from many cities in Europe.

Extra Tips for Luxor, Karnak & the Valley of the Kings

  • Eat breakfast, this is important. Don’t stuff yourself. That would be foolish. Intense heat makes many of us not want to eat, but a little something like toast, an egg and some fruit can seriously help dealing with the heat later. Also, it might be best to avoid any significant boozing the night before desert sightseeing. These are not the conditions in which you want to be hungover.
  • Drink plenty of water. Don’t be afraid to stop for a break in the shade. Have a popsicle. Touring an ancient ruin is never worth risking your health, and everyone is different. My wife has spent most of her life in a place where the average temperature is around 55°F (13°C), whereas I’m from a place that is miserably hot and humid a majority of the year. The heat in Egypt had much less effect on me than my wife, and there were times where she was pleased to rest in the shade while I wandered off to try to see it all. We were both happy and survived. That’s what matters. Don’t overdo it.
  • Skip King Tut’s tomb. Yeah, it’s King Tut, I know. He’s the most internationally famous pharaoh today. The discovery of the treasures in his tombs is beyond famous – it’s legend! Unfortunately for the Valley of the Kings and people of Luxor, the bulk of the priceless cache of riches found in Tut’s tomb is housed in the Grand Egyptian Museum. Hundreds of miles away in Giza. His tomb itself wasn’t meant for a pharaoh. His sudden death and rushed burial prevented this. Essentially, Tutankhamen didn’t have years to plan and design an ornate tomb like some of the others at the Valley of the Kings. The interior of Tut’s tomb is smaller and lacks the splendor and grandiosity seen in less famous tombs. If time is limited, skip it.
  • Don’t pay anyone inside the temples or tombs. Nearly every Egyptian archaeological site I visited had people harassing tourists, hands out with palms open, demanding a tip. Why? Who knows, probably simply because tourists too often relent and pay them to get them to go away. Of course, this reinforces the behavior, and the authorities rarely care about this. Hiring a guide for your trip is an excellent way to keep the touts and beggars at bay while also gaining access to tremendous information.
  • Bathrooms are a different story. Keep a small amount of money in your pocket. You may have to pay to use public restrooms that, for some reason, aren’t always included in the price of admission.
  • There are a lot of websites advertising guided tours of the Valley of the Kings. This is a waste of money, an overpriced chauffer. At the very least, it’s misleading. They might be able to give you information before you enter the tombs, but guides are not allowed to accompany tourists inside.
  • If you are claustrophobic, determine how sensitive you are to enclosed, underground spaces before visiting the Valley of the Kings. Honestly, the tombs are large and spacious, but that may not be sufficient for some. There’s nothing to see outside, so don’t waste your time if you won’t be able to enter and explore the tombs.
  • You should not ever have to pay for your guide’s ticket. Legitimate, official guides in Egypt either do not have to pay for admission, have an annual pass or their tickets should be factored into their fees. Ticket prices for Egyptians are extremely cheap anyway.
  • Don’t forget to tip your guide! Tipping is a big deal in Egypt, especially for foreigners. Some people do not deserve or earn tips but demand them nonetheless. Most guides, on the other hand, provide excellent services and are deserving of something extra.

Ancient Egypt is one of the most celebrated, mysterious and fascinating civilizations our world has seen. Thanks to a lot of luck and hard work, we have the ability to see some of the most spectacular remnants of this once-great civilization.

Hatshepsut Obelisk in Temple of Amun at Karnak Temple Complex in Luxor Egypt

While the Pyramids receive the bulk of attention (and visitors), Upper Egypt has a tremendous amount of history, mystery and culture to offer as well. In particular, the archaeological sites in and around Luxor are truly some of the world’s best. When you’re planning your trip to see the Land of the Pharaohs, don’t forget to make time for a few days in Upper Egypt. It’s worth every minute and every effort.

Filed Under: Get Lost

Landing in Cairo: First Impressions of North Africa’s Megacity

March 24, 2024 By Hangry Backpacker Leave a Comment

When most people think of Cairo or Egypt, the first thing that comes to mind is the obvious: the Pyramids & Ancient Egypt.

View of Cairo Egypt from Airplane
the enormity of Cairo from above

That’s fair. The Pyramids are some of the most iconic and well-known landmarks on Earth, the last remaining member of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. This Wonder also lays claim to the distinction of being the largest and tallest man-made structures on Earth for THOUSANDS of years. That is worthy of distinction.

Ancient Egypt is fascinating. It’s mysterious. And, still today, it’s extremely famous.

But the Pyramids are in Giza, not Cairo, on the opposite (far) side of Giza from Cairo. They’re on the outskirts of the adjacent city. We’ll get to Giza, the Pyramids and all of the fun stuff of Ancient Egypt soon. However, what may appear close on a map is a different story when the distance is separated by miles and miles of megacity.

And that is THE first impression I had of Cairo when the plane began to descend: this is truly a megacity! The view of the expansive urban area from my window seat aboard North America’s worst airline (Air Canada is my “never again” airline, by the way) kept going and going. The city below was not like flying into London, Amsterdam or Dallas. No slow sprawl here, where property size and distance between neighbors gradually lessens and eventually disappears the closer you get to the city center. No, I did not see much of that.

Instead, it appears that the world below abruptly transforms. Desert sands – we’re talking hundreds of miles, perhaps thousands, that is essentially total emptiness – this almost immediately gives way to jam-packed urban agglomeration as far as you can see.

There is a literal line in the sand, like a fence. One side is sand and harsh desert. On the other side, lush green fields.

view from airplane above Egypt where the Sahara Desert abruptly ends and greenery begins
from the air, through the dust – sand to green in an instant

I’ve seen images of Cairo from above. I’ve seen satellite photos and photos of the illuminated city at night. For some reason, though, this sudden transition from nothing to megacity didn’t quite sink in until I saw it in person. And then there’s the greenery of the Nile River Delta in the area. Again, the instantaneous transition from inhospitable wasteland to lush, green farmland is obvious.

My fascination only increased. Geography is enthralling for some of us. The relationship between humans and the physical world around them, how they change and interact with it, is truly something I never tire of studying. Few places are like Egypt where one can witness this spectacular relationship in action. Cairo is the epicenter of this stark contrast between complete natural desolation and maximum human liveliness.

Cairo International Airport

When the plane finally touched down, we taxied for about 15 minutes before reaching our gate. It was mid-day, but there were few other planes to be seen traversing the runways.

When we finally deboarded, we followed the crowd. Cairo International Airport has some gigantic airport terminals. For what felt like 20-30 minutes, we walked past empty gate after empty gate.

“Where is everyone?,” I thought. It was strange. Huge airport, hundreds of gates – no people. I don’t recall seeing anyone waiting for a flight at any gate, though. Other than our fellow passengers, it was quiet and empty.

There isn’t much to report about the terminal. It was pretty boring and outdated. I thought this might have just been that one endless terminal, but my thoughts were proven correct on second and third visits to Cairo International Airport.

view of Cairo International Airport runway from the plane

In all fairness, the airport is fine. It’s clean. But for a city of this size with this many foreign travelers passing through, I expected something nicer and newer.

Anyway, that’s the interior of the airport. It’s rather boring. I should point out that it also felt secure. Security/police are visibly present, and there are a lot of cameras, too. Every direction I turned, more security cameras watching. I felt totally safe. Customs and immigration was easy, fast and no hassle whatsoever.

Upon exiting, that’s when you finally get the first feeling that you are in Egypt. The moment you step out the doors, taxi drivers are by your side, vying for business. This can be stressful, especially after a 12-hour flight from the other side of the world deposits you into a foreign country.

My suggestion when traveling to countries where certain proprietors don’t know how to civilly communicate with others is to arrange a ride beforehand. You can do this through your hotel, with rideshare apps (i.e. Uber or Grab) or with online tour operators.

Roughly 36 hours after leaving my front door, I would rather arrange a ride and spend a few dollars more than be harassed by a horde of drivers, haggle on a price, navigate a language barrier and possibly be scammed. At the very least, that can wait until I’ve had a nap.

Cairo Highways

The streets of Cairo remind me of a toned-down version of the streets found in big cities of Southeast Asia. It’s on the chaotic side – and there is certainly the occasional moment you think may be your last – but it’s mostly just busy.

The scene from the airport to Downtown Cairo was a mix of surprise and pity. In a matter of moments, you go from looking at fancy buildings, and, before you have time to process the unexpected sheen, massive slums occupy your entire field of view.

dilapidated high rise block apartment Cairo Egypt
this building is inhabited

This is only a highway view, merely a tiny glimpse into an enormous place. That’s something I think is important to remember. There are certainly crappy cities all over the world, but I try not to judge any of them as viewed from a highway or train.

Rolling into Downtown Cairo, it was a strange sight. The architecture is hard to read. There are rows of ugly blocks, the occasional modern structure and a lot of Parisian-esque buildings in the mix. I was reminded of central Baku, surprisingly European buildings but slightly more neglected here. My guess is that, at one point, there were more of these beautiful, European-style buildings that have been cheaply replaced over the decades.

pretty building in Downtown Cairo

I liked it, though. Cairo’s center is a fun area. It’s busy. There are streets and alleys hiding where you don’t expect. The smells were just what I anticipated. Overall, the actual city of Cairo seemed like a pretty cool place that I was looking forward to exploring.

After the Nap

The nap happened. It had to. We did our best to stay awake. Naturally, we failed. The slumber was short-lived, and we managed to get out and see some of Cairo on foot, spending a healthy amount of the afternoon and evening wandering and absorbing the surrounding megacity.

European-style architecture of Downtown Cairo

Crossing busy streets isn’t as bad as Vietnam, where traffic lights and crosswalks serve as nothing more than decoration. But few places can compare to playing real-life Frogger in Hanoi.

Cairo’s streets still require heightened senses and a certain amount of courage.

The famous Tahrir Square, for example, is a giant roundabout in the middle of Downtown Cairo. Crossing the smaller streets that lead into the roundabout can be stressful. My suggestion is to take it slowly and attempt to make eye contact with oncoming traffic. If you’re with someone, stay close or hold hands. Whatever you do, DO NOT dart out and try to beat the traffic. That’s a great recipe for pain.

It might seem trivial, but I enjoy the insignificant challenges we face when visiting a new country. Like figuring out how to cross the street. It’s stressful in the moment – sure, sometimes it’s downright aggravating when it feels like no one cares about the pedestrian – but it’s kind of fun, too.

The City Comes Alive at Night

Cairo is certainly a busy city during the daytime. You wouldn’t expect much else in an urban area packed with tens of millions of people. The busyness of daytime, however, often pales in comparison to night.

When the sun starts to go down, the temperatures also drop. And the relief from sweltering midday temperatures brings the streets of Cairo to life.

busy streets at night, full of pedestrians and traffic, in Downtown Cairo
night – when Cairo really comes to life!

You can easily find busy museums, cafes and roadways during the heat of the day (especially places with good air conditioning), but the good kind of busy and chaos is reserved for the evening. Local chaos. This goes double for weekends. Sidewalks are absolutely bustling. Shops are all-hands-on-deck. Parks (the few that I saw) were the gathering place. Restaurants and cafes were packed and spilling out into the street.

With the occasional exception, I’m normally not one to embrace the chaos of crowds like this, but Cairo at night is exciting. Perhaps I was also energized by the cooler air, but I’m inclined to think it is more likely that I was excited by all of the food.

giant shawarma on the street in Downtown Cairo Egypt

Evening and night is the best time to search for food in Cairo. There are more restaurants open. Street food appears out of nowhere. It’s easy to determine the good spots, too, based solely on the locals crowding around certain establishments.

One of the interesting things about the night in Cairo is how safe I felt. Despite the surrounding chaos, I felt significantly less bothered. Tourists are frequently pestered and harassed by vendors and touts in Cairo. “Relentless” is a common descriptor for these individuals.

I would like to think that I blended in with the crowds at night, but who am I kidding? I’m a white guy who’s bigger and taller than pretty much everyone else around me. Blending in isn’t something I can do well anywhere, especially places like Cairo.

Instead, I think people simply weren’t bothered as much. They were out enjoying their own lives and largely paid no attention to the two Westerners strolling past. Even in parts of Cairo where we did not see any other tourists, the feeling was the same. Worry-free and unbothered, we enjoyed the wandering through Cairo.

This is why I loved strolling through Cairo at night. Especially the downtown area. If you can do this with a local or fun guide, this would be even better. The only real challenge is navigating the language barrier and knowing exactly where to eat (or not eat). Local assistance would be hugely beneficial.

The People of Cairo

We spent the first portion of our trip in a hostel in Downtown Cairo. This was not a tourist area and no other hotels were nearby. Well, there was one, but it looked like a time capsule from the 1920s. Unfortunately, it was closed or something – we weren’t allowed inside. Tourists were found around the museums; otherwise, we saw only a handful of other Westerners or conspicuous tourists in the area over the course of a few days. Away from the Egyptian Museum, even the famous Tahrir Square (shown below) was largely devoid of tourists.

central Cairo near Tahrir Square and the Egyptian Museum

The people of Cairo, in my personal experience, are friendly. A vast majority of them truly could not care any less that a tourist was in their neighborhood. The primary difficulty was the language barrier. The average Egyptian – that is, one who doesn’t have regular interaction with tourists – does not speak any English at all. I don’t mind that. It’s their country. But it does present a challenge, so perhaps that is the reason locals seemed indifferent to our presence.

If you come across someone who does speak English, you will quickly find out. You will either have gained a new best friend or have to shoo away a persistent sales pitch.


My first impressions of Cairo can be likened to an urban rollercoaster. There were moments of surprise, awe, pity, curiosity and reflection. There is obvious wealth and glaring poverty. Modern architecture sits adjacent to old and ancient. Christian next to Muslim.

Armenian Catholic Cathedral in Cairo

The city is huge. That cannot be understated. My perspective is a tiny glimpse into the few areas we saw, though we did see a healthy variety.

One thing I can confidently say is that there is far more to Cairo than being the city near the Pyramids. I would be happy to return to Egypt’s megalopolis with the sole intention of exploring and wandering the streets as they are today. No museums or ancient sites, just Cairo.

Filed Under: Get Lost, Lagniappe

Sinaia, Romania Travel Guide: A Mountain Escape

December 30, 2023 By Hangry Backpacker Leave a Comment

Sinaia is the place for travelers in Romania to escape to the mountains. The city is located at 2500 feet of elevation, on the edge of the Bucegi Mountains (part of the larger Carpathians) that rise to over 8000 feet high.

Carpathian Mountains and Monastery in Sinaia Romania

Sinaia’s location has made it a popular escape from the congestion and heat of Bucharest for centuries. Historically, this city was primarily an escape for wealthier people, such as royalty and nobility. The remnants of this particular portion of the city’s past are among the prominent draws to the area.

While the prevalence of large mountain villas remains – visible in both modern and historic architectural styles – anyone can visit Sinaia today. Aside from still serving as a mountain escape for the upper classes, Sinaia is an excellent place to enjoy the outdoors. Skiing is the most popular option, but Summer months bring ample opportunity for hiking, mountain biking and other activities.

Here’s everything you need to know about visiting Sinaia, Romania:

What To Do in Sinaia, Romania

Sinaia can be roughly separated into three portions: the city center; hilly residential area; mountainous wilderness.

The city center is where you will find most hotels, plenty of restaurants, shops and a few points of interest. It is more of a few long streets than a defined core. Due to the terrain and history, the organization is far from an organized, easily-navigable grid.

Sinaia City Center Roundabout with restaurants and shops

The residential area sprawls over the hills and up to the edges of the taller mountains. For the most part, there aren’t many significant points of interest in this portion of Sinaia. The streets are, however, an enjoyable place to wander, and there are also a few smaller hotels and guesthouses scattered among the mountain homes.

The wilderness area around Sinaia is wild indeed. Much of it is protected national parkland, ideal for outdoor recreation and nature lovers.

Explore Town

There are only a few notable attractions in the “town” portion of Sinaia. These truly are few, but they are also significant. More on these below.

Aside from the main attractions, the town hosts shops and restaurants.

Peles Castle

The most popular attraction in Sinaia is Peles Castle. The former mountain residence of Romanian kings isn’t old in comparison to the country’s many medieval fortresses, but the incredible sight that it is more than makes up for it’s relative youth.

Peles Castle is a stunning sight to behold. Nestled in the woods on the edge of the city, this is a quintessential mountain villa clearly fit for a king. As the summer residence of the king in the 19th century, this helped to popularize and build up the area.

Exterior view of Peles Castle in Romania from the gardens

The castle is more palace than fortress. The Renaissance Revival structure is unmistakably a place to enjoy the fantastic natural setting in luxury, though it appears more like structures one might expect to see in the Italian Alps or Central Europe – certainly not Romania.

That’s what is wonderful about Romania! The country has far more history and wonderful sights than most visitors expect.

The interior of Peles Castle is unbelievably ornate. The detail extends from the ceiling to the floor, with fantastic designs adorning everything from the carpets to intricate wood-carved walls, columns, chandeliers – this is mountain luxury at its peak.

Peles Castle interior Sinaia Romania

The castle grounds feature a smaller palace, too, the Pelisor Castle, built for other members of the royal family. The fairytale-esque mountain villa grounds are complete with elaborate gardens, statues and fountains.

Pelisor Castle, the small castle at Peles in Sinaia, Romania
the “small” castle

The spectacular Peles Castle is absolutely worth a visit. While the site is owned by the Romanian Royal Family, it is open to the public. Though they maintain the ‘smaller’ Pelisor Castle for their personal use, it is also open to visitors.

Entrance to the castle grounds is free. You can wander much of the outside area at your leisure. The castle interiors are generally open from Wednesday through Sunday. Hours and exact days vary throughout the year, so be sure to check their website before you go. Entrance to Peles is 50 Romanian lei (about $11 USD) and 30 lei (less than $7 USD) for Pelisor.

Sinaia Monastery

Sinaia Monastery dates back to the late-1600s. The working monastery is a significant site of importance for the Romanian Orthodox Church. It houses hordes of valuable jewels and the oldest Bible written in the Romanian language.

Sinaia Monastery Romanian Orthodox Church on a sunny day

Visiting Sinaia Monastery is another highlight of this mountain town. The monks who live there are extremely welcoming to visitors and are happy to let you explore the grounds and church.

Sinaia Town

Sinaia is primarily a place for tourists and vacationers to escape the city, be that for cooler mountain air during Summer or to hit the slopes in Winter. However, most of Sinaia consists of residential areas stretched across the hillsides.

Old House in Sinaia Romania with wildflowers and garden

From my perspective, many of the houses appeared to be high-end second homes, likely serving as quiet, picturesque escapes for wealthy individuals. Perhaps these were simply the ones that stood out. There are certainly more modest houses in the mix, and I found wandering through the neighborhoods to be an exceptionally interesting activity. The mix of fancy, modern structures and old, curious homes is a fun contrast to explore.

Large Modern House in Sinaia Romania

There isn’t really that much to do in the actual town portion of Sinaia. Most points of interest are on Carol I Boulevard. That said, there isn’t much there aside from hotels and a few restaurants. Romania has a fair amount of Casinos, and there is one in Sinaia. I didn’t travel to Sinaia to gamble, but I noticed that it was closed anyway. The casino is on the edge of a nice park that is a popular place to congregate on warm evenings.

Sinaia Casino closed

The main road through Sinaia provides further perspective of the changes in Romania. Many of the structures are evidence that the town was once much more significant than it is today. Some of the buildings must have once been home to prominent nobility (to be near the king during his Summer residence). Today, many of these structures are in disrepair, but the evidence of past grandeur remains. Others have been renovated into hotels or government buildings.

abandoned mansion in Sinaia Romania
old, worn home in the center of Sinaia

Visiting Sinaia is about the surrounding nature. The struggles of the resort town are visible around every winding road.

On one hand, it is sad to see the former glory and wealth of such a beautiful place crumbling right in front of you. On the other hand, new construction and renovations are underway. It provides unique insight into how economies and societies change when an entire government system collapses. No place is immune to economic collapse or revolution, even places of and for the upper classes.

That’s what makes strolling the streets of Sinaia all the more captivating. It’s unique. The history is all around you, and the surrounding beauty makes the scene simultaneously surreal, curious and beautiful.

Romanian Mountains

The biggest natural draw to Sinaia is the mountains. For snow sports, this is the top ski area in Romania. For summer, there are a lot of hiking trails, and the area is popular with mountain bikers, too.

If you’re like me – i.e. you don’t ski and hate cold weather – don’t fret. Summer is a perfect time to visit Sinaia. Better yet, you can enjoy the fantastic views without the snow.

The ski lift to the top (a cable car) is the most expensive thing I did in Romania. A ticket to the very top costs 70 lei, a little more than $15 USD. and that is the most expensive thing I did in Romania (what a great budget travel destination, right?!). For me, an excellent view is something for which I regularly splurge. I plan for these costs, because few things can compare to an unforgettable view.

view from the Bucegi Mountains in the Romanian Carpathians above Sinaia

In theory, you can hike to the summit, but that may not be practical for most travelers. The climb is several thousand feet in elevation gain and would take hours. Most of us don’t travel with proper hiking gear anyway. If you do, the Carpathians have plenty of worthy treks.

The trip to the summit via cable car takes about 20 minutes and is broken up into two cable car rides. If you are afraid of heights, skip this. The cable car is safe, but it does sway on the sharp incline. And you are, at times, suspended hundreds of feet above the ground.

Hangry Backpacker on cable car going up the mountain in Romania
don’t look down!

The summit affords spectacular views. There are slightly higher mountains in the distance, and the valley towns are tiny specs visible thousands of feet below you.

One of the more bizarre items on my bucket list – to be fair, most of my travel bucket list can probably be categorized on the atypical side – was to visit the Carpathian Mountains. When I first learned that there were wild, snowy mountains in Romania like this, Romania was immediately a place I wanted to visit.

The Carpathian Mountains are considered one of the few wild areas remaining in Europe. And for most people, myself included, this is not what we imagine when we think about Romania. Reaching the peak of a mountain in the Carpathians with sweeping views of other peaks and down to the valley and towns below was a great moment. Next time, I’ll be renting a car to explore deeper into the Romanian wilderness.


Check out our Romania Travel Guide!Hangry Backpacker Backpacking Romania Travel Guide


Eating in Sinaia

Eating in Sinaia is a more challenging endeavor than other popular travel destinations in Romania. As a resort town, eating often involves hotel dining, and there are generally fewer options for cheap eats.

The food at Sinaia hotels, while more expensive than what a traveler might find in a typical Romanian meal, is pretty good. If you want more variety and cheaper prices, you simply need to walk a few blocks from your hotel.

If you want to go really cheap, there are streetside food stands where you can get a kebab for the equivalent of a few bucks, covrigi for less than a dollar or other quick snacks without breaking the bank. Don’t expect gourmet food at these “fast food” stands, but you can eat your fill of local food on a budget.

perfect budget travel food choice in Sinaia from these fast food snack stands

In particular, the cafes near the park are nice places to enjoy a meal on a Spring or Summer evening. Avalanche is a solid spot for affordable food and good pizza. For Romanian food, you can try some of the spots near the roundabout. Good Romanian food in Sinaia is easy to find, though it is a little more expensive than elsewhere in the country.

When to Visit Sinaia – Winter vs Summer

The best time to visit Sinaia depends on what kind of activities you want to do. Romania has a spectacularly seasonal climate, and weather changes in the mountains are considerably more pronounced.

If your interests lie in exploring town or seeing the historic sites of the area, you will want to visit during warmer times of year. Summer is great in Sinaia. The mountain air is cooler than lower elevations and ideal for wandering the town. Summer also is a great time for hiking and mountain biking.

Hikers in the Carpathian Mountains taking a break and enjoying the view

Skiing and other snow sports enthusiasts will love Sinaia during Winter. The resort town is the top ski destination in Romania, with miles of runs that are minutes from town or a couple of hours from Bucharest. If you enjoy the cold and snow, the city is surely an attractive sight when blanketed in snow.

Where to Stay in Sinaia

As a resort town, Sinaia is home to a lot of hotels, guesthouses and small BnBs. The large hotels are generally closer to the center of the city, which is an ideal location for close proximity to restaurants, notable attractions and the train station just a few minutes away.

Aside from the larger properties, there are dozens, if not hundreds, of small guesthouses and BnBs. These range from modern villas to historic mountain cottages. They are excellent choices for a quiet holiday stay nearer to mountain/outdoor activities, but the trade-off is that properties higher up the mountainside are inconvenient for dining in town.

For budget travelers and backpackers, however, there are no hostels in the area. Don’t let this deter you from adding Sinaia to your travel itinerary. Accommodation here is cheap. I stayed in a nice hotel (see below) for less than $30 USD/night.

Interior of communist-era hotel in Sinaia
nice & new on the inside

The hotel situation in Sinaia is interesting. Some of the large properties are closed or appear to be in rough shape. However, those that are open look like scenes from a 1970s postcard of Communist propaganda. And there are elements of these structures that have a splendid time capsule vibe, with the surrounding design and architecture transporting you back to days of regimes past.

Communist-era hotel in Sinaia Romania
Communist-era exterior

How Long Should You Stay?

If you are visiting Sinaia to see the pretty mountainside town and famous sites, you only need 1-2 days. You can visit the main attractions like Peles Castle and see a majority of the town in a solid, albeit busy, day. If you want to wander a little more, you can add an extra day to this stay. For most visitors, 2 days in Sinaia is plenty.

For those who want to dive into and experience the local nature, you will likely want a few days to enjoy the slopes and trails. The same goes for those looking to escape the busy cities and slow down. Sinaia is a great place to travel in Romania for a few days to relax and enjoy the scenery.

Transportation

The best way to get to Sinaia is via train. The line that runs through town has direct connections to Bucharest and Brasov. The total time of the trip usually comes in around one hour and 30-40 minutes.

Important note: Most tourists will want to exit the train at Sinaia station, not Sinaia Sud. Sinaia Sud is a second stop nearby, but it will leave you much farther from the center of town and the bulk of hotels and restaurants.

Tourists are often surprised when they step off the train at the station in Sinaia. Compared to the worn, tired appearance of most Romanian train stations, it looks different. The design is nicer, extra details on the fixtures are apparent, bright flowers adorn the platform and so on. The reason is that this was once the king’s personal station. It’s prettier – fit for a king, you might say.

Sinaia Train Station exterior the nicest train station in Romania

You can also travel via bus to reach Sinaia. Buses from Brasov or Bucharest take roughly the same amount of time to reach Sinaia as the train, but you will likely have a more comfortable journey. The downside of taking the bus is that the price generally runs about double the cost of the train. For instance, one-way tickets to Sinaia from Bucharest in June 2023 were about 50 lei for the train and 110 lei for the bus.

The best, most reliable way to reach Sinaia is via train. The cars can be crowded, but it’s cheap, comfortable enough and a fairly short journey.

Check out The Hangry Backpacker’s Guide to Transportation in Romania for Tourists to help you prepare for and plan your travel to Sinaia and beyond!

Extra Sinaia Travel Tips

  • Watch out for bears! One of the wonderful things about Romania is that it is one of the last remaining, truly wild places in Europe. The wilderness in this country comes with bears. This is especially important to note if you’re hiking or spending time in/near forests (such as the edge of Sinaia). Bear alerts were even sent out during my time here, so keep an eye out!
  • Pay attention to Peles castle schedules. This is one of the main reasons people travel to Sinaia, so it can’t be overstated. Despite being one of the most famous landmarks in Romania, it’s not open as often as one might expect.
  • The same goes for restaurants. Sinaia is absolutely a nice place to travel, but it’s clear that recent years have not been kind to the city. There are a lot of places that are closed, crumbling and abandoned. As a result, the sleepy resort town tends to shut down fairly early. If you find a good spot to eat dinner, don’t wait too long! Perhaps grab some snacks, just in case.
bear trap in mountains of Romania
bear trap outside of Sinaia

Sinaia is worth a visit for many reasons. Whether you’re escaping the city, want to experience a resort town time capsule or you’re simply curious, all of that is found here on the edge of Romania’s Carpathian Mountains. The incredible natural beauty, the history and fascinatingly visible struggles, contrasts and rebirth make it an excellent place to travel in Romania. And, in spite of that, Sinaia will return to its former glory eventually.

Mountain houses of Sinaia Romania

Places like this are special. Humans have been attracted to idyllic settings like this for centuries, and that is one constant that will not wither away.

Filed Under: City Guides

Hiking Tampa Mountain: The Best View in Brasov

May 20, 2023 By Hangry Backpacker 3 Comments

Hiking Tampa Mountain is one of the most enjoyable and satisfying things to do in Brasov. Tampa Mountain is the dominant geographical feature of Brasov, Romania. The mountain tops out at just over 3000 feet in elevation, rising about 1200 feet above the city below.

View of Old Town Brasov from Tampa Mountain

The location of Tampa, directly adjacent to Old Town Brasov, creates a wonderful backdrop against the historic city center. It also provides a spectacular viewpoint at the summit (plus a close-up look at the famous local ‘Hollywood’ sign) and makes for the best hike in Brasov.

Hiking Brasov’s Tampa Mountain isn’t an overly complex undertaking. It’s certainly not Everest. There are, however, several things to note. Read on for our guide to the best hike and viewpoint in Brasov.

Hiking Tâmpa Mountain in Brasov

Hiking to the top of Tampa in Brasov isn’t straightforward. There’s nothing technical or mysterious going on, but there also isn’t a giant, flashing sign that says, “Hey, Tourist! Start here!”

The starting point of the hike is, obviously, at the base of the mountain. More specifically, it’s in the aptly named Parc sub Tampa. You can easily find this in Google Maps.

Parc Sub Tampa steps to the hiking trail
up we go!

Once you reach the park, continue up the steps and down the pavement past the restaurant Sub Tampa (on your left). Just past the restaurant, there are a few more steps on the left that clearly lead up and into the woods. Take these. The trail is dirt. It starts off relatively flat before climbing upward.

To an extent, you have to find the way up yourself. There are a few trails that intersect and offshoot from the main trail, so you’ll want to make sure to follow one easy rule to reach the top: FOLLOW THE TRIANGLES!

Triangle trail markers for hiking Tampa Mountain

The red, painted triangles are on trees and/or benches. If you see these, you’re going the right way.

The trail to the top is essentially switchbacks, lots of switchbacks. There isn’t any climbing or seriously steep inclines to worry about. Make sure you stay on the trail. This is for your safety and to maintain the integrity of the environment and trail.

Tampa Mountain hiking trail swirchbacks
back and forth… back and forth

The hike to the top of Tampa Mountain isn’t really that difficult. There are so many switchbacks that the incline is usually gradual. And the trail is almost entirely shaded beneath the cover of the forest canopy.

Overall, the hike takes about an hour. It depends on your pace. Treating my hike as more of a workout, my trek to the top was rather quick. I was also determined to reach the top and keep clear of any people behind me. You can take an extra half hour if you want to enjoy the surrounding nature in a more leisurely manner.

Once you reach the end of the trail, there is an opening and a small road. Cross this road. There will most likely be other people ahead, and you can follow them a short distance to the best view in Brasov. Here you will find excellent sweeping scenes of the surrounding countryside, the city below and an up-close view of the famous Brasov ‘Hollywood’ sign.

Brasov ‘Hollywood’ Sign

The Brasov ‘Hollywood’ sign is a peculiar sight. One of the first things that comes to mind when you see it is, “Why..?”

Brasov Sign atop Tampa Mountain from Old Town

Honestly, I don’t know. It probably has something to do with the fame of Transylvania in books and media. Perhaps it is simply a marketing ploy.

Regardless of the real why behind the sign, it is an effective attraction. The Hollywood sign of Brasov is visible from a great distance. In the event that you somehow forget where you are, just look to the mountain!

One of the coolest things about hiking to the top of Tampa Mountain is seeing the Hollywood sign of Brasov up close. From below, it doesn’t look that large. Sure, it’s far away, and you probably assume that’s it’s larger when you’re right next to it. For my part, I was shocked to find that it is much larger than I imagined. It’s huge!

Brasov Hollywood sign from behind the letters at the top of Tampa Mountain

The city from the top also appears so much smaller. Again, of course it does when you’ve just climbed over a thousand feet up to look back down at it. But this is one of the things I enjoy about finding great viewpoints. The best views help to put your location, a place, into better perspective. Often, observing a settlement and the surrounding geography from a higher point provides insight into local history and why a certain location for said settlement may have been chosen in the first place.

That’s the geography/history fanatic in me. If these matters interest you, it’s another reason to hike to Tampa Mountain and enjoy the best view in Brasov.

Interestingly, the smaller nearby town of Rasnov has its own Hollywood sign. Rasnov is a cool medieval fortress town, one of many in Romania. The sign is clearly here to draw the attention of all the tourists heading to Bran Castle, but I think this sign is tacky. It doesn’t fit with the citadel and sits more like a billboard right outside the fortress walls.

Other Options to Reach the Best View in Brasov

While I recommend hiking Tampa Mountain, the scenic route isn’t an option for everyone. Luckily, there is another option to reach the top!

A cable car runs up to the top of Tampa Mountain, quickly whisking passengers past the sweaty hikers below.

Cable Car with Coca-Cola branding going to the top of Tampa Mountain

A one-way ride up or down costs 15 Lei (less than $4 USD) or 25 Lei (about $6 USD) for a round trip ticket. The cable car runs from 9:30 AM to 6 PM Tuesday through Sunday. It does not operate on Mondays.

Keep in mind that the posted schedule may unexpectedly change.

The Tampa Mountain cable car takes 2-3 minutes to reach the top. However, the line for the easy way up is a different story. During busy times, the wait can be 45 minutes or longer.

Extra Tips for Hiking Tâmpa Mountain

Think Twice Before Hiking with Kids

I do not recommend hiking Tampa Mountain with kids. The trail is not stroller friendly at all. If the kids are old enough to walk, I still advise against this. There are steep drop offs right off the trail, in addition to many parts with jagged rocks. I saw a couple of people about halfway up with kids, and their expressions suggested they were second guessing this decision.

Rocky and rough trail on Tampa Mountain hike

Tampa Mountain is the best view in Brasov – in fact, it’s one of the best viewpoints in all of Romania – so it’s understandable you may want your kids to enjoy it, too. In this case, opt for the cable car. And make sure to keep a close eye on them at the top. There are few barriers to stop you from taking a tumble.

Take a(n Early Morning) Hike!

Go early in the morning. The earlier you start your hike up Tampa Mountain, the fewer people you will encounter. Especially when the weather is nice, the trail gets busier in late-morning and on weekends.

Viewing platform from Brasov Hollywood sign

A lot of people choose to take the cable car. Even when the trail seems quiet, this is evident when you reach the top. The view of Brasov is spectacular. The earlier you reach the top, the fewer crowds you will have to navigate.

Bring a Flashlight for Sunset

The view from Tampa Mountain is an excellent place to watch the sunset in Brasov. The giant sign and viewing areas are generally west-facing. However, it can be tricky to get down after dark.

After the Sun goes down, the trail will be dark. There are no lights, and there are plenty of places to stumble and tumble. For much of the year, the last cable car descends before dark. If you opt for a Sunset hike and view in Brasov, take a good flashlight. You will need it to carefully hike to the bottom of Tampa Mountain.


Tampa Mountain is the best choice for a fun hike and great view in Brasov. The perspective from the summit is hard to beat, giving insight into how local history is intertwined with the geography. Further, the trail is not especially difficult and also provides for a nice escape from the crowds of Old Town.

The best view in Brasov, from the top of Tampa Mountain

A visibly iconic landmark in the city, this is truly one of the best things to do in Brasov. Even if you take the easy way up, the panoramic scene of the historic city and Romanian countryside is worth the $5 and change for the ride. Watch your step, and bring a good camera. These views are unforgettable.

Filed Under: Get Lost, Lagniappe

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