Backpackers Travel Guide: Yangon, Myanmar

Backpacking is the best way to see Myanmar, and backpackers in Yangon have the freedom to wander and explore one of the most fascinating cities in Southeast Asia.

Yangon, formerly known as Rangoon, is the largest city and former capital of Myanmar, formerly known as Burma. After independence from the British Empire, Myanmar experienced significant political challenges. The turmoil essentially sealed off Myanmar from much of the outside world, leaving a place that is, today, unique among nations in Southeast Asia.

Traveling in Myanmar was nearly impossible until the 1990s. The country didn’t really open up to foreigners until the 2010s, though some areas remain off limits to foreigners. Tourism in Myanmar is in infancy. Poor infrastructure makes travel in Myanmar tedious and difficult, but it also makes it exciting.

Fortunately, Yangon is the most developed place in Myanmar, and most tourists in the country eventually visit the city. Yangon is too-often overlooked by backpackers in Southeast Asia. This is slowly changing, but the city still lags behind other major cities in the region.

If you’re lucky enough to find yourself in Myanmar, a travel adventure awaits. Here’s everything backpackers and solo travelers need to know about Yangon:

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Backpacking Yangon – What to See & Do

Backpackers in Yangon have the benefit of being in a city perfect for aimless wandering. The city is unspoiled by mass tourism. The culture of Myanmar thrives in Yangon, and wandering the streets is the best way to experience this bustling Southeast Asian city.

The best way for travelers to explore Yangon is to set out on foot with an attraction in mind. Taking the scenic route – that is, curiously wandering in a general direction – will make exploring Yangon more fun. Here are some of the coolest places to see in Yangon:

Shwedagon Pagoda

Shwedagon Pagoda is a national symbol of Myanmar and a major attraction in Yangon. The massive gold stupa dates back over a thousand years, though the and impressive detail and care yield a clean, flawless structure that appears much newer. The entire complex is ornate and beautiful.

Shwedagon is huge and visible from across the city, but walking there is not a quick stroll. Shwedagon is about two miles from Sule Pagoda, which is in the heart of Yangon. That two miles takes nearly an hour to reach on foot. Traffic and intense heat are two obstacles that slow backpackers in Yangon, and taking a bus or taxi may be best for some travelers.

Admission to Shwedagon Pagoda is 10,000 Myanmar kyats (MMK), which is currently (2019) less than $7 USD. Before visiting the pagoda, solo travelers in Yangon need to be aware of certain entrance regulations. The entrance fee itself is cheap, but foreign visitors may incur other charges.

Men and women must have their legs completely covered, and both (especially women) must have their shoulders covered. If you do not have the appropriate attire, it can be rented. Like most pagodas, shoes are also not allowed. Small boxes must be rented to store shoes. The frustrating part about these charges is, in my experience, the dress code (and additional costs) only apply to foreigners. The entrance fee can quickly double without appropriate attire.

Sule Pagoda

Sule Pagoda is the historical center of Yangon. Legend says this pagoda is over 2,000 years old. Though I’m skeptical of that dating, it is definitely old. Sule Pagoda sits in the middle of a very busy roundabout in Downtown Yangon. This location is certainly central, but it makes for a harrowing attempt to actually reach the pagoda. The pagoda’s location – with street markets, a park and dozens of buses stopping nearby – creates a chaotic, overwhelming environment.

Sule Pagoda is an important landmark, and backpackers and travelers in Yangon will appreciate the photogenic nature of the famous temple. Unfortunately, despite being in the middle of Downtown Yangon, it may be a little difficult to access for nervous travelers. The crowds are massive, and during my stay in Yangon, the pagoda was closed to visitors. Nevertheless, it’s a striking building and an important symbol in Burmese culture and history.

Even without going inside, Sule Pagoda is an impressive sight to see. And it’s an important landmark to get your bearings for a backpacking stay in Yangon.

Street Libraries

Wandering solo travelers in Yangon will find a lot of curious things being sold on the streets. From barrels of fried insects and oddly late-night fish markets to markets solely selling old cell phones, watches and used batteries, it’s all there.

Several streets around downtown Yangon are lined with books. Random, old books are stacked on the sidewalks where locals pop a squat and skim through the pages of strange reading material. The curious thing is the peculiar selection of books. Old, outdated textbooks, National Geographic magazines from the 1970s and Windows 95 manuals are all for sale on the streets of Yangon.

Why? I have no idea. For some reason, in addition to the Burmese-language books, Yangon has a high number of random foreign publications that have now reached the streets of Myanmar.

The street books may not seem like much, but it is a peculiar sight. There is also the aspect that these were, apparently, once more common than now. Controversial local laws – laws in Myanmar always seem to stir controversy – are limiting street markets in favor of more organized (and foreign-funded) shopping centers.

Bogyoke Market

Yangon’s Bogyoke market is one of the most interesting places in the city. The market is popular with tourists but maintains its function as a center of local trade and shopping. The market, housed in an old colonial building, is officially open daily from 8 AM to 530 PM.

Bogyoke is the place to go for local art, souvenirs, clothes and almost anything else. Myanmar is one of the world’s largest producers of several precious and semi-precious gemstones, and Bogyoke Market has an incredible collection of fancy rocks. There are thousands of piles, literal piles, of cut and uncut rubies, sapphires and jade in the shops. I don’t know anything about gemology, but there seem to be good deals buying these gemstones close to the source.

My favorite part of Bogyoke Market is an old antique shop, tucked in a second floor corner. The shop contained an assortment of random items, many dating back to the days of British Burma. The friendly shopkeeper was eager to show me his coin collection. As an amateur (okay, novice) numismatist, I tried to convince him to part with a few of the unique coins in his possession. In the end, he sold me a couple of old coins and insisted on giving me a few more.

I usually hate shopping. Bogyoke Market is an exception and one of the best markets in Southeast Asia.

Junction City

Directly across the street from Bogyoke market is a better example of the kind of shopping I loathe. Junction City is a massive mall and one of the newest additions in the city.

Although I personally don’t care for most shopping malls, Junction City is an odd scene for Yangon. I cannot recall another place in Myanmar with such a significant Western, modern feel. That’s not my goal when traveling, but a scene like this in Myanmar is highly unusual. Junction City is nice, yes, but on a deeper level it represents the change that is likely coming in Myanmar. Westernization and modernization is inevitable (and necessary), but hopefully sights like Junction City remain scarce.

I recommend shopping on a local, street level. It will be cheaper and more beneficial to local Yangonites. However, for backpackers in Yangon looking for new clothes, an iced latte, a sense of modern familiarity – or, perhaps, you need a break in the air conditioning – Junction City is the place to go.

More Places to See in Yangon

Anti-Drug Museum – Myanmar was, until recently, the largest producer of opium in the world
Karaweik – Giant dragon boat
Botataung Pagoda – One of many stunning pagodas in Yangon
St. Mary’s Cathedral – Interesting contrast to the overwhelming Buddhist presence in Myanmar
Burbrit Brewery – Craft beer in Yangon

Food & Drink for Backpackers in Yangon

Food in Myanmar is overshadowed by the cuisine in neighboring countries. Myanmar shares borders with India, Thailand and China, all of which have great food that has influenced Burmese cuisine. There’s not much attention given to Burmese cuisine, especially when attention on the country typically relates to conflict and political turmoil.

Luckily, for hangry backpackers in Yangon, food in Myanmar is awesome. And Yangon has enough street food to satisfy any traveling foodie. Like most Southeast Asian cuisine, rice and fresh veggies are present in most dishes. Fresh fruit is available everywhere, and a favorite Burmese snack is green (unripe) mango with salt and dried chili pepper. Most traditional meals are served with plates of fresh greens and bowls of pickled veggies.

One of my favorite meals in Myanmar was a noodle dish with tiny, dried shrimp. The dish has carrots and cabbage, too, in a fish sauce. Occasionally, it is served with fermented bamboo shoots, one of the few foods I cannot stomach. Sadly, I neither read nor speak Burmese, so I don’t know the name.

Mohinga is a fish soup that is incredibly popular in the country. Regional variations of Mohinga are noticeable, but overall it’s pretty good. The best Mohinga comes from street vendors on sidewalks or carrying/riding around to sell their fish-and-rice-noodle soup.

Tea shops are also popular in Myanmar. Most neighborhoods in Yangon will have a few tea shops filled with locals sipping the day away. This is an especially local experience.

Visitors to the city will find a vast assortment of food. Not only is Burmese food (obviously) readily available, the city has Thai, Vietnamese, Chinese, Indian and even Western restaurants, too. While in Yangon, I had a bizarre Burmese take on tacos, decent shawarma and an incredible burger. But the best meals in Yangon – and, without a doubt, the best atmosphere for backpackers in Yangon – are on 19th Street, also known as Beer Street.

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Yangon Beer Street

One of the most popular areas for solo travelers in Yangon is 19th Street, appropriately nicknamed Beer Street. The area around 19th Street buzzes at night. Several of Yangon’s (few) hostels are in the area, along with hundreds of restaurants. Each night the area attracts thousands of locals. There are usually a few tourists, primarily backpackers, in the mix, but there are rarely more than a few tourists anywhere in Yangon.

Beer Street in Yangon is essentially a single block. Don’t worry about missing a single block in a crowded city. Myanmar’s only Beer Street is easy to find. Each side of the street is lined with bars and restaurants. And the crowds are a dead giveaway. There is virtually no vehicle traffic on the street. Instead, the sidewalks and street are occupied by tables and huge grills.

The grills on 19th Street cook anything and everything imaginable. There is fresh squid, pork belly, whole fish-on-a-stick, prawns and more. The menus of each restaurant are even wilder. Most of the food is fantastic. In fact, in four trips to Beer Street in Yangon, everything I ate was great. Even the plate of pig brains was great.

When ordering/picking food on Beer Street, choose safer options. This is a fun area with great food and plenty of beer, but it is not particularly clean. “Safer” generally means fresh or hot. On one occasion, something I ate on 19th Street led to two days in the bathroom. Shockingly, it wasn’t the pig brains. It could have been anything, but take precautions to avoid food poisoning.

Aside from the great food, backpackers in Yangon head to Beer Street for the obvious – beer! Beer on 19th Street is in line with most Yangon street restaurants. Prices are about 1,000 MMK for a big beer. That’s less than a dollar.

Cheap, delicious food. Unbeatable atmosphere. Cheap beer. In other words, Beer Street in Yangon is a win for backpackers.

For more on the beer in Myanmar and all of Southeast Asia, check out the Hangry Backpacker’s Guide to Beer in Southeast Asia.

Where to Stay in Yangon

Backpackers and solo travelers in Yangon will find fewer hostel options, but there are plenty of guesthouse and budget hotel options. Like much of Myanmar, hotels are regulated and prices are higher than those in most nearby countries. Thankfully, Myanmar is cheap. A decent hotel in Yangon with air conditioning – “decent” by my standards is not luxury, by the way – may be a little overpriced for Southeast Asia, but it won’t be expensive at all.

Large international hotel chains are largely absent from Myanmar, but travelers seeking upscale accommodation in Yangon have several options. Most large, fancy hotels are away from Downtown Yangon.

Several of the best things to do and places to see in Yangon are within walking distance of Downtown, including 19th Street (Beer Street), Bogyoke Market and Sule Pagoda. Downtown Yangon is the best area for backpackers and solo travelers to explore the city, and the area has dozens of good budget and mid-range hotel options.

Transportation in Yangon

Getting around the city is a challenge for backpackers in Yangon. The massive city is pedestrian-friendly, but it is enormous and hot. Buses wind through the city and are very cheap. They are packed and, although far from comfortable, a great way for curious travelers to see Yangon.

The Yangon Circular Train is the most unique way to wander the city. The train goes in a loop (with a few offshoots) that transports passengers around the Yangon area.

There is a restriction on motorbikes within the city, so finding a tuk-tuk for a quick, cheap ride is not an option. For backpackers in Yangon needing a car, Grab (Southeast Asia’s Uber) is an easy option. Local taxis are cheap and easily booked through hotels.

Most backpackers arriving in Yangon from the north (Naypyidaw, Mandalay, Bagan) will arrive at Aung Mingalar Highway Bus Station, just north of the city. This bus station is busy and intimidating for most foreign tourists. There is no need to worry, though. Locals are friendly, and taxis are easy to find. The trip from Aung Mingalar Bus Station to the city center can take well over an hour during rush hour. I settled on 15,000 MMK (about $10) for a taxi to the guest house in the city center. After the ride took nearly two hours with heavy traffic, I gave the driver an extra 7,000 MMK for his trouble. $15 for a two-hour taxi ride is incredibly cheap.

Yangon International Airport is fairly small considering the large size of the city. The airport has recently been remodeled and has all the necessary amenities and comforts for waiting. Arriving two hours before a flight is more than enough time. Taxis from the city center to the airport are less than 15,000 MMK and, depending on traffic, take about 30 minutes.

Why Travel to Yangon?

Yangon is a test of the senses. The city is loud, smelly, hot and busy. This may seem less than ideal, but Yangon is truly the perfect backpacking destination. Where other big cities in Southeast Asia – cities like Bangkok, Kuala Lumpur, Ho Chi Minh City or Singapore – have experienced significant development and considerable westernization in many aspects, Yangon remains a pillar of Southeast Asian authenticity.

Yangon is what I imagined Bangkok to be, minus the sex and drugs. If I’m honest with myself, I probably just hoped Bangkok would be a certain way.

Yangon feels like Southeast Asia. It looks like a big city in Southeast Asia, what I envisioned before arriving. It is truly a less-traveled destination, but that is beginning to change.

The time to travel to Myanmar is now, and backpackers in Yangon are witness to one of the most authentic and interesting cities in Southeast Asia. Change in Myanmar has been slow, or entirely absent, for decades. In the last few years, political shifts have opened the country to the outside world.

The best travel destinations are those with fewer tourists and greater authenticity. Sometimes that’s hard to find or means tedious travel, but, currently, backpacking is the best way to visit Myanmar. In some respects, backpacking is the only way to travel in Myanmar. Backpackers in Yangon have the privilege of cheaply exploring a cool city with great food, intriguing history and friendly people.