Hangry Backpacker

Joseph, Oregon Travel Guide

September 30, 2020 By Hangry Backpacker 6 Comments

The small town of Joseph is an oddity among Oregon travel destinations. In Wallowa County, in the northeast corner of Oregon, the tiny town of Joseph sits roughly 4000 feet above sea-level and attracts tourists with a wide variety of interests.

With a little over 1000 people, Joseph is the second-largest “city” in Wallowa County. The large, rural county (about 7,000 people in an area larger than Delaware) is out of the minds of most Oregonians and unknown to most tourists. The attraction of Joseph and the surrounding area is the exception.

Despite being tiny and remote, there is a lot going on in Joseph. Local history is tied to the Nez Perce tribe (the city is named after Chief Joseph) and Oregon’s early history. The Wallowa Mountains are one of Oregon’s best natural wonders. And tourism is the backbone of the economy in Joseph, thanks not only to the natural beauty, but also a burgeoning art scene and a remarkably well-preserved old town.

What to Do in Joseph, Oregon

What to do in Joseph depends on your interests. There are several reasons to spend a day or so enjoying the town itself, and there are even more reasons to explore the surrounding area.

Shopping

Joseph has a thriving art scene. There are a surprising number of galleries selling artwork of all kinds. Bronzework is a particular local speciality. There are several galleries showcasing (and selling) curious bronze pieces and sculptures, and there are prominent bronze sculptures along the street too.

Aside from local art, like many older small towns, Joseph has plenty of shops full of antiques and old junk. The artsy nature of the town sees these various trinket shops laid out in an appealing presentation to lure in those who enjoy sifting through peculiar secondhand stuff.

On the less expensive end of the shopping spectrum, Joseph has a few souvenir shops that sell local goods of the cheaper, more lighthearted variety. For instance, Sasquatch (Bigfoot) is prominently featured on every souvenir imaginable.

With the exception of the occasional flea market, I kind of hate shopping. Joseph has a lot of cool stuff, though, and it’s one of those endearing small towns that is still dominated by local businesses. While I may not find joy in gingerly stepping through secondhand trinket shops – I’m petrified of the whole “if you break it, you buy it” mantra of these overpriced, cluttered spaces – I can get behind supporting local business.

Wallowa Lake

The picturesque Wallowa Lake sits on the southern edge of Joseph. With a stunning backdrop of the Oregon Alps shielding the lake from the south and west, Wallowa Lake is a major tourist draw in Northeast Oregon.

There is a public beach and boat launch on the north end of the lake, in Joseph. Kayaks, paddleboards and glass-bottom boats are available for rent here if you want to enjoy some time on the water.

On the south shore is Wallowa Lake State Park. This state park has campsites and cabins for rent, though these are in high demand during Summer months. There is also a marina, gift shops, food and another area for swimming.

The lake is sourced by the Wallowa River, which itself is largely sourced from snowmelt in the surrounding mountains. In other words, the water in Wallowa Lake is quite cold. Even on the warmest of Summer days, the lake isn’t ideal for swimming. Some people can handle a little cold water, but I can’t imagine spending very long in the chilly lake. Thankfully, it is a wonderful place to enjoy the scenery on a sunny day.

Wallowa Lake Tramway – Mount Howard

Open from late-Spring to early-Fall, the Wallowa Lake Tramway is a fun, unique experience a few minutes outside of Joseph, Oregon. The changing views from top to bottom are incredible, as riders are taken from mountain forests up to the peak of Mount Howard and an alpine environment.

Operating for about 50 years, the Wallowa Lake tram is surprisingly fun. Not only are the views unforgettable, the shaky ride will challenge acrophobics and weak-stomached individuals. But don’t worry. The tram is safe and regularly inspected.

The Wallowa Lake Tram climbs 3700 feet (vertically) and takes about 20 minutes. The only downside to taking the easy way to the summit of Mount Howard is the price. It costs $36 per adult (up and down), but the view at the top is worth every penny. There is a small cafe at the top, which would certainly be an excellent place for a drink with a view, but the prices here are as steep as the tram ride.

Mount Howard isn’t the highest peak in the Wallowa Mountains (Oregon Alps), but it is the ideal setting for the best view of the range. From the peak, the highest snow-capped peaks of the Wallowas are visible to the west and south, and the Seven Devils Mountains in Idaho are visible dozens of miles away to the east.

There is probably a trail for hiking to the summit of Mount Howard, but it would be an incredibly difficult trek and a long day. Take the tram and enjoy an easy day in nature with unbeatable views.

**Note: Joseph, Oregon is already 4000+ feet above sea-level. The tram climbs nearly 4000 feet more. Those not accustomed to higher elevation should take it slow.

Eagle Cap Wilderness

The Eagle Cap Wilderness is one of the wildest, most untouched places in Oregon, which is already a largely-unspoiled state. It is popular with backpackers (the outdoorsy, nature type of backpacking) for serious backcountry treks and hiking. As the only town near the area, Joseph is the natural start/end point for backpackers.

The Eagle Cap Wilderness is remote and rugged. The area is home to an abundance of wildlife hiding in the mountains including rams, cougars, black bears, elk and even Oregon’s small (but growing!) moose population.

At more than 500 square miles, the Eagle Cap Wilderness is not only the largest protected natural area in Oregon. The rugged terrain and remote location mean that the area is also far less busy than other popular hiking/trekking areas of the state.

Wallowa County Barn Tour

Not every tourist has the time or desire to get lost in the wild for days on end. For a much more comfortable and easier exploration of Joseph and the surrounding rural area, the Wallowa County Barn Tour is a self-guided driving tour of historic and picturesque barns in the county.

There’s something appealing about lonely old barns in tranquil settings. The Wallowa County Barn Tour makes it easy to track these scenes, though getting lost on the tiny backroads in the sparsely-populated, rural counties of the American West is even easier.

Joseph is home to several stops on the Wallowa County Barn Tour, perfect for those who don’t want to stray too far from the road and get lost in middle-of-nowhere Eastern Oregon.

A driving tour of barns may not appeal to many travel tastes, but Joseph is in a part of the country dominated by agriculture. These barns are more than photogenic relics of local history. The fact that most of Northeast Oregon is agriculture or timberland, if not altogether empty, means that a tour like this is an excellent way to explore the culture and really get off the tourist trail. It’s the perfect way to see a side of the United States that too few travelers, American or otherwise, ever witness.

If you’re only interested in rustic barns without the rural America part, that’s okay, too. Several of these historic barns are located in and around the town of Joseph.

Where to Eat in Joseph, Oregon

Joseph, Oregon isn’t known as a hotspot for food-focused travel. As stated, the surrounding natural beauty and the town itself are the primary draws. Fortunately for tourists in Joseph, this little town punches above its class when it comes to food.

Thanks to tourism and the artsy nature of Joseph, there are far more dining options in town than comparable cities. And these aren’t restricted to diners or small town cafes (which, by the way, I love and make places like nearby-ish Baker City a surprisingly enjoyable place to eat).

Joseph has several notable restaurants, ranging from brick-oven pizza to gourmet chocolates. When it’s time to eat, start here:

Old Town Cafe – breakfast, brunch and coffee
Gold Room – wood-fired, brick-oven pizza. I mean, what more do you need to know?
Arrowhead Chocolates – gourmet chocolate shop (honestly, I hate chocolate, but my girlfriend loved this place for the quality and low prices, an usual feature of chocolate shops)
Embers Brewhouse – great patio, lots of beers, decent food
Stein Distillery – if you’re not driving…
Stubborn Mule – local recommendation #1
Cheyenne Cafe – local recommendation #2

The most popular restaurant in Joseph is Outlaw. While I did not dine here, it was explicitly not recommended to me by several locals. It has a very touristy look. Another popular restaurant, The Dog Spot, is highly-rated, but it goes against my rules – how can a restaurant make such a large variety of food and make it all well? That menu is a bit strange.

Travel & Transportation in Joseph, Oregon

The best and easiest way to travel to Joseph, Oregon is to make a stop on the Great American Road Trip. Frankly, Joseph and the rest of Wallowa County are out of the way and especially rural. Of course, that’s one of the great things about the area, but a car is pretty essential to reach this corner of Oregon.

The Wallowa Mountains have no roads traversing through the range. For instance, if you’re coming from Baker City, even though it’s only 50 miles away, the drive still takes about two hours as you have to drive completely around the mountains.

Other travel times to Joseph are roughly as follows:

From La Grande (OR) – 1.5 hours (where drivers exit Interstate-84 to Joseph)
From Pendleton (OR) – 2.5 hours
From Boise, Idaho – 4 hours
From Portland – 5.5 hours

There is no public transportation in Joseph, but you don’t need it. The town is so small that everything is within reasonable walking distance.

There is some, albeit limited, public transportation to Joseph. During summer months, the Wallowa Link runs bus services from La Grande to Enterprise and Joseph. It’s cheap ($5 each way), and you can find more information on their website.

Greyhound runs buses from Portland to Boise with stops in Baker City and La Grande, so it would be possible to reach Joseph this way. That would make for an especially slow, unpleasant journey. Joseph is also only be in reach with the Wallowa Link in Summer, meaning travelers in other times of year will still need to rent a car.

Joseph is pretty much in the middle of nowhere. While that makes reaching this part of Oregon more tedious, it makes the visit better. The remote location means that fewer tourists are willing to undergo that travel to Joseph, so even the most popular times of year aren’t terribly busy.

Hotels, Motels & More

Joseph is small. There aren’t many hotel options, and there are no motels in town. There is a small hotel and a few bed and breakfasts:

The Jennings Hotel
Bronze Antler B&N
Belle’s Pepper B&B
Kokanee Inn

Enterprise, Oregon is a typical small town in the rural American West. About 10-minutes from Joseph, Enterprise is a nice town, but there isn’t much happening (aside from Terminal Gravity Brewing). There are a few more motel options, though:

For a more nature-oriented stay, look towards Wallowa Lake. The community on the south end of the lake has a few accommodation options including:

Eagle Cap Chalets
Wallowa Lake State Park (camping, RVs, yurts)

If you want a memorable Eastern Oregon experience (and plan on only visiting Joseph as a day trip), stay in Baker City. Yes, it’s a two-hour drive, but the Geiser Grand Hotel is the most remarkable, historic and peculiar hotel in this part of the United States.

When to Visit

The continental location and elevation of Joseph mean that it gets cold. Temperatures in Summer are typically mild with cool-to-cold nights. Winter is cold.

The best time to visit is the middle of Summer. The weather is perfect, and July 4th brings a big celebration to town and Wallowa Lake. Late-Spring to early-Fall are decent times, depending how well you handle the cold temperatures.

The first snows usually fall in October and the last of the season is normally in April or May. Snow tends to stick, but it’s not at the heavy depths of the Cascades or Rocky Mountains. Basically, Joseph is cold with a little snow for several months. Winter is not the best time to visit unless you plan to partake in Winter sports.

Joseph, Oregon is a peculiar travel destination in a remote, often overlooked corner of the state. The town has a little bit of old American West, some rural Oregon and a dash of Western Oregon. This all comes together to make a unique, pretty tourist town in Northeast Oregon.

Today, Joseph is becoming known more for its artistic qualities and boutique shops. It even has some decent food. Despite that, the city itself and the incredible natural beauty right outside of town remain the dominant tourist attractions.

Northeast Oregon may not be known as a travel destination, but Wallowa County, particularly Joseph, is well worth a visit. This is one unique, out-of-the-way road trip stop that shouldn’t be missed.

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Trapped in a Tourist Bar

September 25, 2020 By Hangry Backpacker 1 Comment

Eating local and cheap is the goal when I travel. It doesn’t really matter what the food is, as long as it’s budget-friendly, enjoyed by the local residents and, of course, good – that’s what the Hangry Backpacker is all about.

Eating in Madrid, a plate of boquerones tapas in Salamanca — *eat local, no matter what it is*

In other words, you won’t find me in a Starbucks outside of the United States. Well, to be frank, thanks to years living in the coffee capital of the USA – that being the coffee-obsessed city of Portland – you won’t see me in a Starbucks anywhere.

When I travel, especially when traveling abroad, my favorite way to experience a destination is through the food. Food is culture. And history. Politics. Geography. Business. Happiness. Food provides so much information about a place and its people.

With that sort of respect and emphasis toward food, especially since I constantly mention it here, I do my best to seek authentic eating experiences. Local restaurants, the kind of places where a normal resident of whatever town I’m in would stop for lunch or after work. There are exceptions, but that explanation is for another time.

The point is that the last thing I want to do when I travel is wind up in a tourist restaurant. Unfortunately, the reality is mistakes are occasionally made. Sometimes travelers end up in places they typically wish to avoid.

On a backpacking trip last year, I made just that mistake. My hangry attitude took control. This is what happened:

Head for the Guinness Sign

On my third or fourth day in Madrid, after spending several hours aimlessly walking around – based on my meandrous travel nature, probably some 10 miles at this point – I was getting a little hungry. Well, I was a little thirsty. And tired.

Busy Street, rainy day, Madrid Spain — *Madrid, Spain*

To me, the best solution to figure out which direction to search for some incredible Spanish food and decide what to do with the remainder of my day was to find a pub. Once there, I would be able to quench the powerful thirst I built up getting lost. And maybe have a snack while doing some light planning.

As I was walking down a busy street, I saw a Guinness sign. It was calling out to me, beckoning me to step inside, relax and enjoy a pint. Or maybe a liter. Perhaps two!

By this point, I was tired and my body was a wee bit on the achy side. My back was stiff. My feet hurt. A large, cold cerveza would surely be the remedy to my pathetic state.

Better yet, if I chose the lazy route, called it a day and wound up spending a couple of hours in a local bar, I could certainly live with that. As long as I’m in a local establishment, I can count this as work and experiencing life in Madrid.

That Guinness sign should’ve been a red flag. I see Guinness as a global brand because it is a global brand, the same as Coca-Cola. My assumption was that a Guinness sign in Madrid simply meant one thing: a bar that also served Guinness.

That’s not unusual, and that iconic black logo with white letters and a gold whatever-it-is above just means ‘bar’ to me. I had no idea what was next.

Trapped in a Tourist Bar

As I walked into this unassuming, perhaps-nameless bar, an Irish pub to be precise, it was dark. In my experience, most Spanish pubs, bars, tabernas, etc are not dark like the dim-lit, comfy watering holes I generally prefer. They’re bright. And that’s fine, because that’s the Spanish way.

That was the second red flag I missed. Nevermind that. I was blinded by tunnel vision, seeing nothing but my little table as I was led to a small corner in the back of the pub.

Setting my bag down on the floor beneath my chair, a waitress arrived as soon as I popped up my head. Instinctively, I began to greet her in my horrendous, locution-limited attempt at the Spanish language. I don’t know much, but I know enough to get by. And I can certainly order a beer.

“Hola! Buenos” had yet to fully escape my mouth when she interrupted my well-rehearsed phrase.

In near-perfect English, “Hi, how are you? Do you know what you want to drink, or do you need a moment?”

Surprised, I fumbled through the menu, pointed to a beer on the menu and stuttered, “Cerveza, La Virgen. Grande, por favor.” She didn’t even reply in Spanish. Instead, English with that thin accent responded, assuring me my cerveza would be out quickly.

In my haste, I picked out a local craft beer with which I was already familiar and knew was good. No harm there. But I was baffled hearing the best English I’d heard from a local, barely the slightest touch of an accent, after several days in Spain. Not to disparage Spaniards, but their accents are strong.

I didn’t hear a lot of English in Spain. And I enjoy the accent when they do speak English. That’s perfectly fine with me. I like a certain element of feeling like I’m in a foreign country, and that includes language. It’s not like I travel expecting, even hoping, to be able to speak English. Little challenges like navigating language barriers make travel more fun.

A moment or two later, something else strange happened. The loud, indiscernible bar rabble began to make sense. I could understand what people were saying. Not because my knowledge of Spanish suddenly improved, and I hadn’t consumed any funny substances making me think I could understand a foreign language.

Pretty much everyone in the bar – customers and staff – was speaking English. Intermingled with the Spanish accents of staff at this pub were English accents, Australian hollers and American voices, too.

This state of confusion must have lasted a few minutes. I snapped back to the present when my glass was clunked down in front of me. I took a large gulp. Then another.

It’s like I was waking from a dream. Everything in my immediate surroundings suddenly came crisply into focus. The loud, distinctly-English voices. The televisions, too – they were all playing English soccer channels. IN SPAIN!

In case you’re not familiar with soccer in Europe, let me say this: In Spain, you watch La Liga, the Spanish league. The Premier League (England) is secondary. This is almost like watching a Canadian Football League game in an American bar.

There was one exception. The TV nearest my seat was playing a Major League Baseball game, the Yankees to be precise. And a guy watching it, sitting at the table just a few feet away from me, was wearing an Aaron Judge grey (away game) jersey.

How did I not notice all of this? When I first stepped inside the bar to take a peak and size up the place, how did I not hear the foreign (American, British, etc) accents? How did I not see the guy one table over decked out in Yankees gear like a good American?

Was I really that tired? Perhaps it was sightseeing-induced, hangry blindness?

Maybe I was just so used to tuning out a language that I really cannot understand that I automatically did the same in this Irish pub. Or maybe I didn’t notice my surroundings because they were reminiscent of familiar scenes from home: Dark bars. American sports (or the EPL). Loud drunk people watching said sports. Yep, that sounds like home.

Whatever the reason, I was oblivious to my surroundings at this tourist bar in Madrid. The Guinness sign led me astray. Tired, hangry and impatient, I let down my guard. I made the mistake.

Sometimes I watch the EPL. And I love baseball. Go Bronx Bombers, but what the hell was I doing there?

What’s the Deal with Tourist Bars?

I don’t see the allure of traveling to another country and seeking a place where it feels like you’re at home. It’s utter madness to go out of your way, literally to another country, to do the same things you do at home.

I’ve made that mistake, too. In Santiago, Chile, several years ago, I found myself at a freaking Ruby Tuesday’s watching an American college football game. To be fair (to myself), it wasn’t entirely my idea.

This mistake in Chile was only about 4 hours of my life, but I still regret wasting that time and money. I even recall feeling a little disappointed in myself at that moment. Sitting next to other Americans in an American chain restaurant 8000 miles from home, I knew that wasn’t what I wanted to do with my travels.

To this day, as I’ve learned more about Chile, I kick myself for wasting that evening. You never know when you’ll make it back somewhere. Travel and life is unpredictable in the best of times. Several years later, I still haven’t returned to Chile. I plan to return, but, ya know, life.

Back to Madrid. What were all of these people – Americans, Brits, Australians – doing sitting in a tourist bar in Spain?

At first, I considered maybe they were in Madrid on business. Then I cleared that up. International business travelers whom I have encountered tend to stand out. They aren’t the type to get trashed at a pub with all their mates. They aren’t the kind of travelers that pack their Yankees jerseys around the world.

Maybe all of these people made the same mistake I did? Again, I don’t think so. They all looked perfectly content surrounded by like individuals, chowing down on cheeseburgers and fish n’chips, drinking copious amounts of Budweiser and Guinness. Forget about jamón or Mahou (local food and drink). Not in this place.

What the hell is going on here? Madrid is a cool city. Why even bother traveling to Spain to spend hours getting drunk in a tourist bar?

The Escape

After I finished my beer, I actually ordered a second round, a Cibeles. This time I didn’t even attempt to communicate in Spanish. All I really wanted to do was leave and find a local cafe or taberna that was surely hiding a few blocks away, but I was slightly mesmerized by this little Anglo-American tourist bubble in a Madrid bar.

It was surreal, circus-like, watching the stumbling, bumbling, blubbering foreigners pretend they weren’t in Spain. Part of me was humored. Another part felt pity. And yet another tiny piece of me envied their company. At the very least, they were having fun.

By the time I finished the last drop of my hefty Spanish craft beer, I regained my senses and was more than ready to leave. When I finally left, I quickly exited and felt as if I needed to sneak out and not be seen – I kept my head down and immediately inserted myself in the middle of a sidewalk crowd – like a preacher not wanting to get caught leaving a strip club.

Of course, no one cared. And no one in Madrid knew me. It was silly to feel this way, but I know better than to go to a tourist bar, especially what must be the tourist bar in Madrid.

Here at the Hangry Backpacker, I constantly mention the benefits of going to local places, often taking jabs at tourist traps and non-local eats. Yet here I was, feeling like the world’s biggest hypocrite, trying to escape the scene of my crime.

I wanted a Mahou, a plate of boquerones, some jamón or at least a scoop of olives. I wanted to be in one of those places where I can’t understand any of the words spoken to or around me, but I still can’t help but smile because of where I am. I wanted to feel like I was in that place – in Spain, in Madrid. Instead, I wasted over an hour in an Irish pub that could have been anywhere in the world.

eating tapas in Madrid with jamon on bread and potato chips — *what I really wanted*

Don’t Be Hangry

Travelers of all experience levels make mistakes. We learn lessons every day. Learning is an intrinsic part of travel, and sometimes we have to make those silly mistakes for the lesson to register.

My mistake was patience, or, more accurately, a lack of patience. There is no perfect formula to backpacking. Part of the fun is just going and figuring things out as they happen. Wrong turns and mistakes happen, and that’s okay – hell, in hindsight, it’s usually fun! – but the overpriced, avoidable mistakes and wasted time due to hangry impatience are the ones that bug me. At least my beer was good.

As for the other patrons in this tourist bar, I don’t get it. Several months later, this silly experience, my own mistake and all those hooligans still gets to me.

Everyone travels in their own way, and I’m certainly not the arbiter of what does and does not constitute the proper, best or appropriate manner of travel. I just can’t understand the attraction or benefit of going to such lengths to do the same things we do at home. That’s not why I travel.

Irish pubs are great at the right time. When I travel, even close to home, I pride myself on finding local establishments to support. There are tons of benefits to frequenting local businesses. Service is typically better. Prices are better. The economic impact is more likely to benefit the local community.

Bodegas Alfaro taberna in Madrid Spain — *the kind of local bar in Madrid I prefer*

When it comes to food, local restaurants often have better food. At the very least, especially compared to a tourist bar or restaurant, your meal will be more authentic and cheaper. If you’re lucky, you might enjoy an unforgettable local experience.

I’m usually pretty good about recognizing a place designed for the tourist hordes. That’s not always the case. Sometimes we wander in the wrong direction.

Travel is a practice. The perfect trip does not exist. No level of preparation can guarantee that every moment runs without a hitch. Every traveler, no matter how experienced or seasoned, makes the occasional mistake. Some mistakes are as small as forgetting that second application of sunscreen. Some mistakes loom larger, like missing a flight or losing your wallet in Bangkok.

Most mistakes travelers make are inconsequential, but every one is a chance to learn and travel smarter the next time. My pride is the only thing that was damaged in this tourist bar in Madrid. I should have known better than to walk into an Irish pub in Spain.

Baker City, Oregon Travel Guide

September 18, 2020 By Hangry Backpacker 2 Comments

Baker City, Oregon is an underrated travel destination. To be fair, Baker City may not be on many tourist radars or even rated at all. There’s something unique about this place, though, and it is well worth a stop for roadtrippers, American culture enthusiasts and anyone who wants to see a different side – the real side – of Oregon.

Baker City, Oregon may not be a sought-after, world-famous or major travel destination. The small city of less than 10,000 people may not even be the most popular place to travel in Northeast Oregon. (I would look to the little town of Joseph and the Wallowa Mountains for that distinction.)

Why Travel to Baker City, Oregon

In Northeast Oregon, on the 45th parallel of the Northern Hemisphere – for all intents and purposes, essentially a different country, a different world, and a long way from the Willamette Valley and Interstate- 5 population centers – Baker City quietly sits about 3500 feet above sea-level. This is not a luxurious tourist town, and the only kind of backpacking is the outdoorsy, backcountry variety.

So why travel to Oregon and take a detour to Baker City? Why would I – the Hangry Backpacker – a food-minded, backpacking-focused travel enthusiast (bordering on obsessive and annoying, I freely admit) want to go to way out to rural Oregon?

For one, Oregon is far more than Portland. As fun as the weirdness of Portland can be, there is more to Oregon than eccentric counter-culture, vegan everything, coffeeshop madness and dispensaries galore. After living in Portland for years now, it becomes more apparent by the day how much the rest of the state has to offer.

Eastern Oregon is full of natural beauty, history, culture, cool towns and nice people. And small towns and cities are really where our true cultures remain intact, unaffected by the changes in faraway big cities. Oh, and these places are usually pretty cheap.

Main Street Downtown Baker City Oregon — *Main Street*

Tourists typically travel to Baker City and Northeast Oregon for the wondrous natural scenery, but that’s only part of the allure. Though often overlooked, this is the quintessential town for a taste of the American West.

Baker City is more than a pit stop, and it’s more than a base for exploring areas outside of town. From nature to history and even food, there is a lot more to Baker City than one witnesses speeding by on Interstate-84.

Attractions & What To Do in Baker City

Baker City, Oregon is more than a rest stop on the Great American Road Trip. There is a lot to do in the area. The small city is historic, pretty and interesting, and the surrounding area is an oasis of natural beauty in the largely uneventful terrain of Eastern Oregon.

Historic Downtown

Downtown Baker City is nationally recognized as a historic district and has plenty to interest visitors for a day or two. Personally, the most interesting parts of the downtown area are the various delicious restaurants, but there is more to do than stuff your face.

Baker City’s historic downtown is full of beautiful buildings, many of which are surprisingly old for this part of the country. There are stately hotels, classic movie theaters, historic churches and plenty of charming early-19th-century homes.

Exterior of Saint Francis de Sales Cathedral in Baker City on a sunny afternoon — *Saint Francis de Sales Cathedral*

Downtown is complete with antique shops, boutique coffee/vintage stores and plenty of local places selling random trinkets and junk. If you enjoy sifting through thoughtfully-arranged oddities and wares found in an old town of the American West, there is an abundance of that.

Aside from shopping for secondhand junk or eating your way through town, the historic nature of Downtown Baker City is a travel allure in itself. The city is one of the oldest in Eastern Oregon, and it’s history is aligned with that of the American West – ranching, railroads, gold and, of course, the Oregon Trail.

Eltrym Movie Theater in Downtown Baker City — *Eltrym Movie Theater*

The history of Baker City is largely overlooked, but it is visible downtown and beyond. This small city in Northeast Oregon is an excellent place to visit to sort of step back in time and imagine what it was like back in the wilder, boomtown days of the West. (To be clear, it’s not some run-down, forgotten hellhole. There are simply elements, reminders and feelings of those eras.)

Anthony Lakes

Though not in Baker City – travel time to these lakes in the Blue Mountains of Oregon takes about an hour – Anthony Lakes is worth the drive to visit for a day trip. The Blue Mountains are a natural spectacle of Oregon, and this is one the best spots (that is easily accessible) to experience the scenery.

Anthony Lakes are a series of mountain lakes and marsh about 7000 feet above sea level. The area is popular for camping, hiking, fishing and other outdoorsy/water activities. Winter sees Anthony Lakes turn into a destination for snow sports, with the Anthony Lakes Ski Resort receiving quite a bit of snow to enjoy the 20+ ski runs.

There is a really easy hiking loop around the lake, about a mile in length, with several offshoot paths into the woods if you want to explore further or find different views of the mountains. There is a longer, 8-mile loop that goes all the way around Gunsight Mountain, the peak that looms above the lake. This longer hike is more difficult but offers a fun, scenic challenge.

Anthony Lakes isn’t exactly in Baker City, but it is a popular area for outdoor recreation for locals in the area. For tourists in Baker City who want to spend some time with Mother Nature, this is an ideal place. It’s fairly easy to reach, the air is crisp and the landscapes are truly stunning.

Geiser Grand Hotel

The famous and historic Geiser Grand Hotel is an oddity. It’s a beautiful, old hotel that seems peculiarly set in, of all places, Baker City, Oregon. The reasons behind that alludes to the history and importance of Baker City in the late-1800s.

Today, this unique hotel actually attracts tourists to travel to Baker City just to stay here. It was famous in centuries-past as the “finest hotel between Salt Lake City and Portland,” and today, restored to its former glory, the fancy Geiser Grand Hotel attracts travelers from afar.

Gesier Grand Hotel dining room and lobby — interior of the Geiser Grand Hotel

This is another landmark in Downtown Baker City, but the Geiser Grand Hotel is an attraction in itself and worth mentioning.

Northeast Oregon Heritage & Culture

Eastern Oregon is probably one of the most overlooked parts of the United States, especially for travel and tourism and especially Baker City. It’s not exactly the place many people think of when it comes to culture and history.

As mentioned above, there is a lot of history in Baker City, and it’s just sitting there along the streets. There are some notable museums that provide more insight and depth into what life was like way-back-when in this region of forgotten America.

The Adler House Museum is small in comparison to the next two museums mentioned here. However, this old home is an excellent example (and tour) of the glory days of Baker City’s history. Located on Main Street, the pretty house dates back to the late-1800s and was the home of a very important figure in local history.

The National Historic Oregon Trail Interpretive Center is one of the more unique and informative museums depicting and explaining the harrowing experience Americans encountered on their westward journeys in search of a better life. This large, state-of-the-art museum is a haven for Oregon Trail historical information and even has some easy hiking trails.

The Baker Heritage Museum is an excellent source for local history and information. The museum specializes in the local history of the Oregon Trail, as well as other local history, wildlife and culture.

Where to Eat in Baker City

Where to Eat in Baker City is probably the most common question travelers have as they’re passing through or resting in town for the night. Fortunately, there are some good answers.

The cuisine of Baker City is not the biggest tourist draw to this part of Oregon, but the dining options in the city are a pleasant surprise for many visitors. Baker City, especially the historic downtown, and the surrounding area are home to plenty of quality eating options.

As I often repeat, “food and drink is an open window into another culture.” This holds true in Eastern Oregon, too. Life is different in this part of the United States, especially compared to Portland and the Willamette Valley region, and that lifestyle is reflected in the great local food.

Whether it’s local restaurants highlighting local agriculture or one of Oregon’s best breweries – and that is really saying something, but Barley Brown’s is that good – Baker City has great eating and drinking options. For a more detailed and thorough breakdown, read the Hangry Backpacker’s Guide to Eating in Baker City.

Transportation

Baker City is not the easiest place to reach. It’s a small city, and there are no commercial flights and no passenger trains stopping in town. A car is pretty essential to visiting the area.

You can take a Greyhound bus from Portland ($40-50, 7+ hours) or Boise ($20-30, 2+ hours), and, technically, there is a tiny commercial airport in Pendleton about 90 minutes away.

Even if you decide to take a bus to Baker City, there’s not really any way to get around without a car. Downtown is easy enough to traverse on foot, but anything outside of those few blocks will require a set of wheels.

Baker City, Oregon is a small town in the rural American West. A large, sparsely-populated region. In fact, it is the seat of Baker County, which has less than 20,000 residents and is larger than Delaware. Public transportation is all but nonexistent, and, no matter which direction you come from, reaching the town requires a bit of windshield time.

It should also be noted that there is nowhere in Baker City, Oregon (at least nowhere that I have personally seen or been able to locate online) that has rental cars. Baker City is an excellent road trip stop, but make reservations for rental cars early and practically.

Hotels in Baker City

Hotels in Baker City are largely limited to typical interstate motels. American highway mainstays like Motel 6, Super 8, Rodeway Inn and Quality Inn are examples of the majority of accommodation options in the city. Most of these are located near Interstate-84.

Aside from these, one motel stands out a bit. The Oregon Trail Motel is one block from Main Street in Downtown Baker City. The exterior of the motel screams rural, small town USA (in a good way), but the rooms are simple, cheap and clean.

The Oregon Trail Motel is far from fancy, but it has the perfect location; and the price is the best when factoring in location and the free breakfast. It feels like Eastern Oregon, the staff is great and the on-site restaurant has good food in an awesome local atmosphere.

As far as hotels in Baker City, Oregon go, none is more notable or prestigious than the Geiser Grand Hotel. This hotel was once of the top hotels in the entire northwestern United States.

Today, the Geiser Grand Hotel is one of the major tourist draws in Baker City. The turn-of-the-century style and decor is an homage to luxury in centuries past – back in the times when getting to Baker City took days, not hours.

The Geiser Grand Hotel is the most iconic landmark on Main Street, even if it is dwarfed by the 150-foot Baker City Tower. In a simple, unpretentious town, the Geiser Grand emanates luxury accommodation and fine dining even today.

Of course, staying in this fancy relic of glory days past will cost. Rooms go for more than $200/night. The historical element and fancy nature of the Geiser Grand Hotel is an attractive reason for many people to spend a day or two in Baker City. If you’re not looking to spend that kind of money, the hotel’s restaurant and bar are open to the public and absolutely worth a visit.

The Best Time of Year to Visit

The best time of year to visit Baker City depends mostly on what you’ll be doing. If skiing is of interest, Winter is best. If camping is the goal, then a warmer time of year will be smart. It is important to note that snow sticks in higher elevations longer than in town.

Baker City is pretty dry and fairly sunny. There are ample opportunities throughout the year to enjoy the town and surrounding attractions, be that beneath a blanket of snow or baking under the dry, Eastern Oregon sun.

From a strict weather point of view, the late-Spring to mid-Summer seasons are ideal. This time has warm days and cool nights, without temperatures being too extreme on either end of the thermometer.

Baker City, Oregon isn’t a flashy travel destination. It’s not a backpacker town, a hub of some obscure microculture or a remote sanctuary of luxury.

Baker City, Oregon is the place to visit for beautiful scenes of the real American West. This is the place to visit for travelers and roadtrippers seeking somewhere pretty, real, unpretentious and unique.

Tourists are more likely to travel through Baker City than to Baker City. What the Interstate doesn’t reveal is a cool town in an interesting part of the United States. Baker City is the perfect visit for roadtrippers that want to see another side of Oregon complete with an historic old town, beautiful mountains and great food. As an added bonus, this part of America is pretty darn cheap.

Where to Eat & Drink in Baker City, Oregon

September 8, 2020 By Hangry Backpacker 2 Comments

Baker City, Oregon isn’t known as a foodie town, a haven of eccentric eating or a place to eat unique, local food. Fortunately for roadtrippers and other visitors in Northeast Oregon, Baker City has surprisingly great food and plenty of good restaurants.

Baker City has a lot more to offer visitors than one might expect. Most people come for the natural beauty in the area, but you have to eat at some point! And you might as well eat good food when you can.

For a small city in a largely rural part of the United States, there are a lot of quality restaurants. Whether you’re passing through or spending a few days, this is where you should eat and drink in Baker City, Oregon:

Where to Eat in Baker City, Oregon

Restaurants in Baker City are more diverse than most small, American towns. Ranging from taco shops to classic staple foods of the American West, there is a decent variety in town. Baker City even has fine dining and artisan bakery options.

Oregon Trail Restaurant

For the real Eastern Oregon restaurant experience in Baker City, go to the Oregon Trail Restaurant. This unassuming diner in a motel parking lot is everything you want in a local, small town cafe.

The Oregon Trail Restaurant is on the edge of Downtown Baker City. Complete with elk and antelope mounts on the walls, this is authentic dining straight out of the American West.

Friendly, attentive staff are a bonus, but the food is what stands out. Traditional American diner fare – chicken fried steak, biscuits & gravy, corn beef hash – and prices that will make you double check that it’s the 21st century are the main reasons to eat here. Breakfast is delicious and the best deal in town.

Sweet Wife Baking

Want something a little fancier, perhaps on the sweet side, for breakfast? Sweet Wife Baking is a fantastic bakery in Baker City, and the menu isn’t limited to sweet eats.

Sweet Wife Baking, at first glance, seems like it would be too fancy for a town like Baker City. Stereotypes of Small Town USA aside, this little bakery a block off of Main Street fits in perfectly.

Sweet Wife has excellent coffee that would easily pass the standards of the world’s most pretentious coffee town, Portland. In other words, the coffee is good; so if boring, probably-burned drip coffee isn’t your cup of, uh, coffee, get a quality pour here.

Breakfast is the obvious reason to go to a bakery, and Sweet Wife has several delicious breakfast options. Breakfast sandwiches, quiche, scones – it’s all great. I would drive the 5 hours back to Baker City to eat another one of those maple bacon scones.

Aside from breakfast, Sweet Wife Bakery has cookies, tasty lunch options and other baked goods. They even have fresh baked bread that varies each day. If you want quality – and, most importantly, delicious – baked goods in Baker City, Oregon, this is the place.

Lefty’s Taphouse – Pizza in Baker City

Lefty’s Taphouse is the go-to local pizza restaurant in Baker City. Beer and pizza, one of the world’s greatest culinary combinations, is the focus here.

Lefty’s (as in southpaw, or a left-handed pitcher) is a cheerfully baseball-themed restaurant. Baseball memorabilia hangs in every corner, and a large Babe Ruth mural occupies a wall between the bar and kitchen. Even the tap handles at the bar are mini baseball bats.

As far as the beer and pizza goes, Lefty’s has the best pizza in Baker City, and it’s pretty good. It’s not pretentious or innovative – it’s just good. The ‘taphouse’ portion of Lefty’s consists almost entirely of craft beers. There are a few local Northeast Oregon brews, several other Oregon craft beers, a few Washington beers and the obligatory one or two cheap American domestics.

Geiser Grand Hotel

Even way out in Baker City, Oregon, there is a fancy restaurant. The Geiser Grand Hotel is an historic hotel that is a destination in itself. It was once considered the “finest hotel between Salt Lake City and Seattle.”

This is the fanciest restaurant in Baker City. The hotel itself may be the more standout attraction, but the food is good, too. Not to disparage the hotel or the town, but this is “Baker City fine dining.” And, to be clear, I mean that as a good thing!

The restaurant at the Geiser Grand Hotel is quality food with high-quality ingredients made in the local way. It’s not pretentious and, while it is visually appealing, the food is the priority – not the plating. You can save a few bucks eating in the bar and checking out happy hour snacks.

Northeast Oregon is a land of agriculture and farming. The Grand Geiser Hotel is the place to eat when you’re craving a fancy burger, filet mignon, prime rib or lamb chops. It’s the best presentation of local food. The historic hotel will also be the go-to for any brunch-seeking foodies in Baker City.

Haines Steak House

First impressions of Haines Steak House are that it looks like a typical themed, touristy restaurant. The thing is, though, little bitty Haines, Oregon is not a tourist town. Baker City is not really a tourist town, and nearby Haines is tiny and has a lot less to attract a visitor. The only reason I ate here was that a local bartender highly recommended the place.

Haines Steak House is an adequate attraction and a good reason to drive even farther out into the middle of nowhere. 15 minutes from Baker City is the quintessential Eastern Oregon Restaurant.

This restaurant serves typical American home-cookin’ in a family-run environment. Seriously, a little old lady is the hostess and her husband still works in the kitchen. This is the kind of restaurant most people only dream of finding on their great American roadtrip through the West. But it’s the real thing!

In between relics of the Old West, reminders that you’re in farm country, animal skins/mounts and the conestoga wagon salad bar, this is Oregon dining of days past. Chunks of meat, hefty portions, heaps of potatoes, cobbler and – seriously – the best rolls on the planet. That’s what you get here – great American food that is simple, friendly, local and aplenty.

More Restaurants in Baker City, Oregon

Inland Cafe – another great, no-frills American diner
D&J Taco Shop – simple & straightforward; the best tacos and burritos in Baker City
Mad Matilda’s – coffee shop and random vintage stuff, very Portland in Eastern Oregon
The Little Bagel Shop – bagels and bagel sandwiches made right here – need I say more?
Lone Pine Cafe – good food in a slightly prettier cafe setting than others on this list
Latitude 45 – nice little gastropub on Main Street

Where to Drink in Baker City, Oregon

After deciding where to eat in Baker City, you’ll need to determine where to stop for a pint or a nightcap. Small towns (those without a college presence) aren’t known as destinations for unique drinking options. Baker City is an exception.

Barley Brown’s

Oregon is famous for its breweries and love of craft beer. If there is a single reason to visit Baker City, like so many other places in the state, it’s the beer. But this beer is different. One of the best breweries in Oregon, if not the best, is Barley Brown’s in Baker City.

Whenever I see a Barley Brown’s beer on tap in the Portland area, it wins. All other beers are out of consideration. Whether it’s a Pallet Jack IPA, Handtruck Pale Ale, Point Blank Red, etc – the answer is yes.

When I decided to spend a few days in Baker City, a visit to the Barley Brown’s taproom was at the top of my list. I was not disappointed. Barley Brown’s beer is in the upper echelon of Oregon beer, and the taproom, adjacent to the brewery, is perfectly located in Downtown Baker City.

Like most taprooms, they offer flights of beer for quick and easy sampling. I rarely waste my time on flights of beer. Sure, it’s an easy way to try several different brews, but good beer deserves to be tasted and enjoyed slowly. A pint of quality beer will have different tastes as you drink down and the temperature slowly reaches equilibrium.

Barley Brown’s beer is so damn good that it deserves every consideration to get the full experience. A visit to the simple taproom is not about atmosphere or decor. It’s about beer.

The benefit of drinking at a brewery, especially a small brewery, is the beer options that aren’t exported off-site. With beer this good, you definitely want to stop in for the more exclusive options. Barley Brown’s, for quality of product, is the best place to drink in Baker City.

Geiser Grand Hotel

Yep, it’s on here again. The Geiser Grand Hotel is also a great place to drink in Baker City. Imbibing at the fancy hotel is a lot different than elsewhere in town, but it’s worth it for a special treat.

The bar at the Geiser Grand Hotel is old, and, I can imagine, it would have been quite the site many, many decades ago. Today, the bar is picturesque and features several elements paying homage to its history, but the allure of having a drink at this historic, once-illustrious (though still very nice) hotel is the cocktail selection.

The bartenders at the Grand Geiser Hotel are good at their job. The cocktails, though on the expensive side, are made to perfection. The menu primarily consists of older cocktails, labeled as “mid-century modern.” Some of the concoctions are still popular, but many are rare sights on today’s bar menus.

Whether you go for something classic like a French 75 or Caipirinha, or something less obvious like a Brown Derby or a Boulevardier, the cocktails at the Grand Geiser are in a class of their own. Weather permitting – Eastern Oregon gets really cold and occasionally really hot – grab a table outside and enjoy watching Main Street life in Small Town, USA.

More Baker City, Oregon Bars

Downtown Baker City has several other drinking establishments. These vary from wine shops to blue collar local bars. Here are some of the other top refreshment options in town:

The 41 Club – normal bar with arcade games
Main Event Sports Bar – I think the name kinda says it all
AJ’s Corner Brick Bar & Grill – small bar with good food in a nice, cool downtown setting
Copper Belt Wines – local winery
Glacier 45 – local vodka distillery

Read the Hangry Backpacker’s Baker City Travel Guide for a thorough breakdown of visiting the Northeast Oregon town.

Eating & Drinking in Baker City, Oregon

Small towns, especially those in more rural, remote parts of the United States, are hardly known these days as great culinary destinations. Food in Baker City is an exception, and it’s a shining example of what makes Small Town, USA so fascinating.

Unassuming small towns, places where life is a little slower and seems uneventful (to outside spectators), offer some of the most unique eating in the USA. To be fair, the bars and restaurants in Baker City, Oregon punch above their weight, but that’s all the more reason to take a few days and spend some time exploring and eating in Northeast Oregon. You just might like it.

Granada vs. Seville: Full Travel Comparison

August 27, 2020 By Hangry Backpacker Leave a Comment

Granada vs. Seville – it’s not a simple comparison. This isn’t a debate of choosing Granada or Seville in a soccer game. Which Andalusian city should you visit on your trip to Spain?

If possible and time permits, Granada and Seville (Sevilla) are both excellent places to travel in Spain. When time is not on your side, choosing a travel destination can be more complicated.

These two Spanish cities are both popular with tourists for a reason. Before you choose – if you have to choose – compare Granada vs. Seville in this analysis. Decide which one is the better place to travel for you.

Seville vs. Granada – The Main Attractions

Granada and Seville both have fantastic attractions that draw tourists. What about the top attractions? Does Granada or Seville have the better landmark travel highlight?

Granada:

The Alhambra complex is the major tourist draw in Granada. The grounds consist of palaces, a ruined fortress, extravagant gardens and even an art museum. All of this comes with great views over the city of Granada.

Alhambra is an enormous source of tourism. Millions of tourists visit each year, and it is a place that I could easily spend half a day wandering around (again).

Seville:

The famous Cathedral of Seville is the most prominent and popular tourist attraction in Seville. This massive church, one of the largest in the world, draws thousands of tourists and religious pilgrims on a daily basis. Seville Cathedral has tons of history, jaw-dropping interior decor and even the tomb of Christopher Columbus.

Seville Cathedral also has the best view in the city. The bell tower, a former minaret, provides marvelous views of the city center in Sevilla.

Granada vs. Seville – which has the better major tourist attraction? Both of these sites are stunning, picturesque and full of history. The Alhambra is more difficult to visit and more expensive, but it is the clear winner here.

Seville Cathedral is cool, but there are a lot of massive churches in Europe. That’s not a bad thing; Seville Cathedral is different from other large European churches, but the Alhambra is definitely the more unique attraction.

Other Tourist Attractions

Aside from the major attractions in each city, which place is better for a variety of tourist attractions?

There are plenty of interesting things to do in Granada. Granada has big beautiful churches, too, and the hilly city also has several fantastic view points. But, truthfully, there aren’t that many significant, landmark tourist attractions in Granada aside from Alhambra. It is a city to visit for other reasons, which we’ll cover below.

On the other hand, Seville has tons of noteworthy tourist attractions. Aside from the imposing cathedral, Seville has the beautiful Plaza de Espana, Roman ruins scattered in and around the area, a famous royal palace (alcazar), modern architectural curiosities and a host of several impressive museums.

As far as significant, “noteworthy” tourist attractions, Seville is the clear winner versus Granada. Seville’s larger size and greater historical importance are the reason there are so many notable attractions in the city.

Seville vs. Granada – Where is the Better Food?

The Granada vs. Seville battle for best food is a terribly difficult and complicated contest to judge. Picking a clear winner will surely anger someone from one of these places. Both of these cities have phenomenal cuisine that represents everything travelers love about Andalusia.

First off, I want to make it clear that neither Seville nor Granada has explicitly better food. In fact, I genuinely want to return to both of these cities for no other reason than to eat. Of course, I’ll squeeze in other tourist activities, but food is my primary motivation.

However, despite each city having delicious cuisine, that doesn’t mean they’re equal. Both cities might be in Andalusia, and both are known for a culture of tapas, but there are significant differences that can tip the scales in one direction for hungry travelers.

Granada is known for tapas. Eating tapas in Granada is not just about filling your belly. It is an experience. There are few instances where tourists dine with locals in an authentic environment like the tapas scene in Granada.

It doesn’t matter whether a restaurant in Granada is popular with tourists. That’s not enough to scare locals away. Locals dominate the clientele at good tapas hotspots, and tourists are welcome to join.

The best part of the lively tapas culture in Granada is that it’s free. Patrons pay for a drink and, moments later, a plate of food comes out. In the less-touristic places, the small plates are bigger and better.

Eating in Seville is every bit as enjoyable as in Granada. Tapas in Seville are a big deal, too, though slightly different than Granada. For starters, they aren’t free, but tapas in Seville are cheap and usually larger portions.

As a larger city, there are more options for eating in Seville. And the city has several notable local specialties. However, with its larger size and greater number of tourists, there are also a lot of tourist restaurants crowding the plate in Seville.

Granada vs. Seville in terms of food is a draw. There may be no clear winner, but there is, more importantly, no loser. Each city has delicious eats and a lively tapas scene.

Personally, I want to go back and eat in Granada more than Seville. Eating in Granada is one of my all-time favorite travel experiences. That being said, I would probably head to Seville shortly after a few days of eating in Granada.

Granada or Seville – Which City is More Touristy?

The unfortunate truth is that both Seville and Granada are very touristic cities. Spain, in general, is a popular destination for tourists with Andalusia being one of the more popular regions within the country.

The deep history of these cities means that there are a lot of attractions. A lot of tourist attractions means, obviously, a lot of tourists.

The center of Seville may be incredibly lovely, but it is extremely touristic. Between the charm and beauty are tour groups, souvenir shops and thousands upon thousands of tourists sprawling out from the center.

Tourism in Granada is more concentrated. The Alhambra’s position perched atop a hill surrounded by a park means that other tourist activities are down below in the city itself. Some of these streets are flooded with tourists, but the “tourist sprawl” in Granada is significantly more contained.

The larger size of Seville makes it easy to lose crowds and escape touristy scenes. Large chunks of the city are especially touristy, though. Granada may have some serious tourist business, but the city is less touristy than Seville.

Keep in mind, though, that comparing Granada versus Seville in regard to which city is more touristic is a bleary comparison. It is easy enough to escape tourist crowds in each city, but each also has more than its fair share of visitors.

Which City is Better for Wandering

Words like “beautiful” and “charming” and “picturesque” are more commonly associated with Seville than Granada. Part of this is due to the fact that the buildings are a little more colorful. Another reason is simply the greater volume of tourists visiting Seville.

Seville is not inherently more attractive than Granada. The two cities are just different. Though they are both in Andalusia, the differences of these two cities are significant. Granada is hilly and nestled next to a mountain range, whereas Seville is mostly flat. Both of these cities are pretty and places where it’s difficult for tourists to put the camera down.

So which city is better for a casual stroll of getting lost and wandering around?

Seville is larger, so it has that going for it. It is also one of those cities where you’ll turn a corner and, seemingly out of nowhere, there is a postcard scene or striking piece of architecture. Seville’s popularity also means more crowds.

Granada is hilly, meaning that there are a lot of unique views. The hills also deter lazy travelers. Aside from the most popular viewpoints, most are not crowded. The central, popular area of Granada is beautiful but busy. The farther you wander from Alhambra, the less likely it is that you’ll see many other tourists.

Granada is an ideal city for aimless wandering, but Seville has the edge. Ultimately, it comes down to size. Seville is larger, and most tourists congregate in and around the center of the city.

Wandering around Seville is a treat. Whether it’s on the tiny side streets near the center or across the river in Triana, the labyrinthine nature of the city makes it the perfect place to get lost and lose the crowds.

Travel Costs – Is Granada or Seville Cheaper?

Depending on the season, Spain can be a fairly cheap travel destination. The weather dictates a lot of the costs. Rainy, colder times of year stifle demand for the most part. The exception is something like holidays or festivals. These can cause demand (and prices) to skyrocket regardless of weather.

Granada vs. Seville in terms of travel costs is pretty clear: Granada is cheaper. The big city effect, the same factor that influences popularity and food, also causes Sevilla to be slightly more expensive.

Compared to Granada, costs in Seville are not significantly higher. Food, which can be a hefty part of my budget, is slightly more expensive. Beer is clearly more expensive, though still pretty cheap.

All of the popular tourist attractions in Seville also add up. The Alhambra is more expensive than any of these, but there are more places of interest with admission fees in Seville.

Hotels can be as expensive as you want them to be. There are more pricey hotels in Seville, but there are plenty of affordable options, too. As far as hostels go, prices are similar, but Seville has more options.

Overall, Granada is cheaper. But prices in Sevilla are not so high that you’ll want to avoid the city or shorten your stay.

Transportation – Better in Granada or Seville?

Cities in Spain typically have good public transportation. Not all cities are the same, and if ease of getting around is a concern for your visit, consider the quality of public transportation in Granada versus Seville:

Intra-city Transportation

Both Sevilla and Granada are walkable cities. Most of the top tourist attractions are centrally located and easy to reach on foot.

Granada has a greater change in elevation than Sevilla. Its location at the foothills of the Sierra Nevada mountains means portions of the city contain fairly steep hills. With a lot of narrow streets, public transport is limited reaching some of these areas.

The bus system in Granada is adequate enough for tourists, but there isn’t really much need to use it. Granada has a light rail network that is severely limited and only useful if you’re arriving at the bus station.

Seville is pretty much flat. Walking in the city is the simplest way to get around. The exception would be in the high heat of Summer, during which time Sevilla is notoriously hot.

Otherwise, Seville is one of the most bike-friendly cities in Spain, and it has the best public transportation network in Andalusia. This includes trams in the city center, a metro system and an extensive bus network.

Inter-city Transportation

The biggest difference in transportation for Granada vs. Seville is the regional and national transportation network. Seville is the clear leader in this category.

Granada has a train station that is all but useless to tourists. Trains from Granada do not connect to any other major cities. Forget what the internet says, there is not a direct train from Granada to Seville, Cordoba, Malaga or Madrid. Not even the slower “media distance” train.

To reach Seville by train from Granada, you have to first take an hour-long bus to Antequera. In my case, I had to take a bus from Granada to Antequera, a second bus to Osuna and finally a train to Seville.

It’s not difficult to get around Spain from Granada, but the schedule is unreliable and inconsistent. It is much easier (and faster) to travel by bus, such as ALSA, from Granada to reach Seville or other cities in Andalusia.

Seville has similar regional bus connections as Granada, so there is minimal difference in that transportation option. Seville’s Santa Justa train station can transport travelers across Spain. It has several high-speed, long-distance routes. These tend to be expensive but save a lot of travel time.

Should you want to rent a car and drive yourself, a road trip in Andalusia is also an excellent way to see the region. The freedom to get around and go for a hike or stop at any of the alluring villages or beaches is tempting to say to the least.

Air Transportation

Granada and Seville both have international airports. The destinations served and capacity of the airports are another big difference between the two cities.

Granada has an airport about 20 minutes west of the city. The airport is essentially good for flying to Madrid and a few other cities in Western Europe.

Seville Airport (Aeropuerto de Sevilla) has a much larger operation than Granada. Aeropuerto de Sevilla is one of Spain’s busiest airports and has regular flights to several Spanish cities and dozens of cities in Europe.

In regards to transportation, Seville is the clear winner vs. Granada. The city is flat, bike-friendly and has excellent ground and air connections to Spain and Western Europe. Granada isn’t remote by any stretch, but it is a little more tedious getting to/from the smaller city.

Granada or Seville, Who Wins?

The comparison of Granada vs. Seville is a difficult competition to judge. Both cities have positives. Seville is easier to reach and has more specifically notable attractions. Granada is smaller, has better tapas and has a beautiful backdrop of mountains.

On the surface, Seville seems like it would be the clear winner. It has everything a tourist looks for in a travel destination – food, history, culture, pretty sights – and that’s why it is so popular.

Granada has the intangibles, though. In addition to being an aesthetically pleasing city, notable attractions and having great food, there’s something about the city that stands out. Maybe it’s the feeling that local life not only exists in the tourist bubble – it thrives. Tourism and local life coexisting in this manner is a rarity in the 21st century.

Neither Seville or Granada is the better city to visit. They’re both great, but I do have a preference.

Granada is one of my favorite cities in the world. My visit was supposed to be two or three days and I stayed for over a week. I almost rented an apartment to stay for a month, but prior commitments, life and all that got in the way.

I also loved Seville. Despite its more-touristic nature, Sevilla is a beautiful, lively city. It has phenomenal food, too, but there’s just something extra special about Granada.

10 Hostel Tips for Better Travels

August 20, 2020 By Hangry Backpacker Leave a Comment

Hostel tips are essential for travelers of all kinds, and we’re all learning more with each and every trip. Hostels are the best choice for travel accommodation. Gone is the day when hostels were exclusively reserved for young people on a gap year jaunt or partying college students spending their summers abroad. Today’s hostels come in a wide variety of quality and attract an even larger variety of people.

If you’re unsure why you should stay in a hostel to begin with, read these 12 Reasons to Choose a Hostel for Next Trip Abroad. Otherwise, know that hostels are affordable, nice, clean and safe. Here are 10 tips for a better experience staying in a hostel:

Talk to People

The most important hostel tip for travelers is to talk to people. Get out of your comfort zone. Don’t be shy. Strike up conversations, introduce yourself and talk to people.

Hostel guests come in a wide variety but are usually solo travelers. This makes it even easier to find other people willing to interact and make new friends. Most guests are in the same boat as you.

As someone with increasingly introverted tendencies, you might think that the best hostel tip I have is to avoid them. Something changes in hostels, though, and I’m not alone in that sentiment. A lot of people who might normally prefer to quietly keep to themselves flourish in hostel atmospheres. Outgoing travelers, on the other hand, will instantly love the social aspect.

Talking to people in hostels is not only a great way to meet people – it’s good hostel etiquette. Other travelers in hostels share loads of travel tips and advice, and hostels are an excellent source of on-the-ground, current travel information.

Get Off Your Phone!

What’s the point of staying in a hostel to stare at your phone, headphones on, and completely shut out the world? You can do that in a hotel or, better yet, at home.

Several years ago, during my first hostel experiences, travelers were considerably more social than today. This was not in the pre-smartphone era, either. It’s a sad state of affairs when I see a noticeable difference in a relatively short period of time.

Too many hostels are often packed with people staring at screens. We’re all guilty of this at some point these days, but don’t get sucked in and let your phone dictate the travel experience. One of the best reasons to stay in a hostel is to meet people and experience new places, and that won’t happen by scrolling or swiping all night.

Privacy Expectations

Don’t expect peace and quiet in a hostel in the middle of the day. Oddly enough, hostels are often quiet during the day, as most guests are out exploring the destination. But don’t expect to retreat to the hostel for a quiet nap in the middle of the afternoon.

Accept the fact that hostels are places where guests share spaces. If you need to work, expect distractions and interruptions in the daytime. If you need a better work environment, find a quiet coffee shop or local workspace to rent.

Respect that other people are using hostel common areas too. Don’t hog all of the outlets or commandeer an entire section of the room. You can lay claim to your bed, locker and a small area beside/under the bed. Don’t spread your junk out everywhere, and don’t mess with anyone else’s personal space, either.

The final privacy tip for hostels, which I will mention again, is to make a note that a hostel is not your personal harem. There are private rooms available if you really can’t help yourself.

Timely, Courteous Packing

If you have a flight, bus or train to catch early the next morning, pack your bags and be ready to go the evening before. Try to arrange things so you can practically, quickly and efficiently gather your stuff in the morning before leaving.

If I have to wake up early, I lay out a few items that I need in the morning, such as clothes and toiletries. I make sure they are easily and quietly accessible. When I’m about to pack up these last few little things, I usually go so far as to take my entire bag out into a hallway or common area and organize there.

Plastic bags are also annoying. Not only can everyone hear every time you’re digging for that elusive phone charger at the bottom of the bag, plastic bags draw the ire of environmental types. And you really don’t want to be the target of a tirade from a backpacker on their environmental high horse. The solution is to bring a cloth bag (i.e. reusable shopping bag) for smaller, loose items.

No one wants to be awakened late at night or early in the morning by someone rustling through their bags. It might not sound like it would be that loud, but in a quiet room of people sleeping, some jackass digging through their bag at 5 AM sounds like a construction zone. This is a pet peeve for many frequent hostel guests.

If you have to leave early, practice courteous hostel etiquette and pack in a timely manner. Try to be considerate of your fellow travelers.

Packing Tips for Hostels

Staying in hostels means having to change a few packing priorities. Packing isn’t drastically different for staying in hostels versus hotels or small rental units – some hostel essentials might already be on your packing list anyway.

There are a few important packing tips for hostel guests, though. Don’t forget these items:

Travel Towel

One of the most useful hostel tips is something I learned the hard way: pack a travel towel.

A lot of hostels provide towels to guests. As hostels shift from cheap, ratty accommodations to cheap, surprisingly nice places to stay, they are offering more amenities to guests. That’s the beauty of competition – it’s better for us traveling consumers!

Towels are still not a guarantee, though. I’ve stayed in some shockingly nice hostels that didn’t provide towels. Now that I’ve learned my lesson (I once stayed in a hostel without knowing I needed a towel, and drying off after a shower was quite the process), I always pack a travel towel.

I bring a travel towel that is quick-drying, lightweight, super soft and rolls up small. It also has a small bag where it fits nicely and easily clips onto my backpack. This was definitely a wise purchase. If I don’t need it at the hostel, now I have a beach towel, extra cover for sleeping, a picnic blanket, etc.

Earplugs

Yes, people snore. There’s no use getting angry in a hostel dorm because some dude in the bed across the room sounds like a dysfunctional chainsaw. If you want to sleep undisturbed in luxury, fork up the cash and go find a Hilton.

An overwhelming majority of hostel guests are nice, respectable people. And most people in hostels are not so brazen to start doing it in the dorm. Most people… I’ve stayed in scores of hostels in dozens of countries, and I don’t think I’ve ever heard two people going at it. It happens, though.

If people are classless enough to do it in other inappropriate locales, you can bet these same people have no qualms about using a hostel dorm room. That being said, this is still an uncommon occurrence in most hostels, which is why choosing the right hostel is very important.

If you do find yourself in the unfortunate situation near a couple of shameless travelers, you’ll be glad to have earplugs. You might never even know what’s going on nearby.

I always expect hostel dorms to have snorers, late-night revelers and other audible distractions. A majority of the time, I’m pleasantly surprised, undisturbed and sleep well. But I always travel prepared.

Bring earplugs. This is one of the most basic hostel tips for better sleep.

Sleep Mask

No one likes to be awakened at an odd hour by blinding light. Appropriate hostel etiquette is not messing with the lights if people are sleeping (more on that below). More and more hostels are adopting measures that give guests a little more privacy in dorm rooms. One such feature is the curtain. The magical hostel bed curtain is not a guarantee, and sometimes the light is just too bright.

backpacker inside a hostel dorm bed with the curtain closed — *cozy bed, but private with the curtain closed*

Personally, I love being awakened by natural light, and overhead lights typically don’t bother me. However, I notice a lot of light-sensitive sleepers in hostels wear sleep masks to bed. I always have one packed – they’re minuscule and you never know – but I can’t recall ever needing to use one.

Packing a sleeping mask is a crucial hostel tip for travelers who need total darkness for sound sleep.

Lock

Always bring a small lock. I’m pretty trusting – probably too trusting at times in hostels – but I still pack a small padlock.

I’ve never had anything stolen in a hostel – *knocks on wood* – but this is another one of those things that people report. Be smart about not leaving valuables unattended, and lock away stuff when you’re not there.

Hostels are safe. As long as you have half a brain, you’ll be fine.

If you want to avoid worrying about packing these items, but you still want to stay in a hostel for other reasons, splurge for a private room. They’re usually way more expensive than a dorm room but still cheaper than hotels and the like. Private rooms offer more security, quiet, comfort and (obviously) privacy.

Don’t forget to pack something. Make your travels better and check out my current list of travel and backpacking gear.

Please, Take a Shower!

No one cares how polite, quiet and considerate you are if you smell like a bag of hockey equipment (no sports equipment comes close to the stench of sweaty hockey gear). So, please, for the sake of your fellow travelers, hostel staff, world peace and the ozone layer, take a damn shower.

bunk bed in hostel dorm with backpack on table — *beds are usually close to each other – take a shower…*

Travel is not an excuse to forego hygiene, and no one likes a smelly backpacker. It doesn’t matter if you think you don’t smell – you probably do. The nature of travel is just a sweaty and grimy affair. If you’re going to be around others, one of the most vital hostel tips for being a good guest is to keep yourself clean.

While you’re at it, wash your clothes. It doesn’t matter how clean you are if your clothes stink.

Invest in some sneaker balls to keep your bag and shoes fresher, too. These little balls make a huge difference. I toss a couple in my backpack and bring two more for my shoes. No need to chance offending anyone or clearing out a room.

I wash some of my clothes when I travel in the shower. Yes, it sounds weird, but that’s the nature of backpacking. It’s an easy way to extend the time between washes and save a few bucks. Even doing that I still give my clothes a proper wash on a regular basis.

Hostels have showers. Use them. Most hostels also provide cheap laundry service. Use that, too.

Drink Responsibly

Minding your booze intake is one of the essential tips for good hostel etiquette. Hostels are typically sociable, happy environments full of people having a good time. That frequently includes a bit of alcohol.

Throw in hostel happy hours, free shots and other liquid temptations, and people start to get a little tipsy.

I’m not preaching some “one beer, one glass of water” kind of nonsense. If you want a hangover, be my guest. When I say drink responsibly, I mean hold your liquor. Know your limits.

Don’t get so drunk that you’re crawling into the wrong bed, puking all over the palace or peeing somewhere other than the toilet. You can and should be kicked out of a hostel after this. If you do intend to reach that level of inebriation, make sure to do so at a party hostel. They might be more forgiving.

If you are unable to hold yourself together, leave the college partying back home. Have fun, but not at the expense of others.

Don’t Sleep All Day

It is incredibly annoying having to tip-toe around a hostel in the middle of the day. In fact, the more I stay in hostels, the less considerate I am of people sleeping in the afternoon.

After a long night of partying or an exhausting day of travel, many travelers recover by sleeping a little later. Travel can be pretty tiring at times, and there’s nothing wrong with trying to recharge, but spending all afternoon sleeping in a dorm room is terrible hostel etiquette.

During the daytime, hostel guests come and go between activities or sightseeing, to pack for the next day’s travel, to change clothes or for whatever other reason. It doesn’t matter why. A hostel dorm room is not the place to sleep all day. Sure, you’re tired. Every traveler has been there, but get out of bed and do something.

If you are in desperate need of some mid-day rest, I’m not saying you can’t take a nap. By all means, rest up! And maybe don’t go out into the wee hours of the morning every night. I mean, are you traveling to see some place new or just to party?

Sleeping in is fine. Recovering from whatever is fine – there’s no need to drag your fatigue to the next day. But do not get mad when someone comes in the room, turns on the lights, has a conversation or starts digging around in their bag. This is not your private space, and you have no right to demand quiet or darkness in the middle of the day.

Take the Tours

Hostels commonly offer free or cheap tours. These can range from city walking tours to sunset tours and food tours. If the tour is cheap (or free), it is an excellent option for most travelers.

Hostel tours are usually not as involved or detailed as larger, more organized tours, but they still serve a purpose. Arriving in a place with little or no knowledge of the local area can be intimidating. Hostel tours are a great way to familiarize yourself with the destination and meet other travelers.

I prefer to explore a new location on my own and socialize later in the day. The feeling of wandering around and getting lost is fun, even relaxing at times. It’s like a travel mission. Occasionally, for one reason or another, I take one of these tours. I can confidently say they are a great way for most travelers to get comfortable in their destination.

Skip the Pub Crawl

Travelers in hostels looking for tips to save even more money should skip organized pub crawls. A pub crawl with new friends in an exciting new city might seem like a good idea. It’s not. Unless you want to party your travels away or go clubbing, it’s a waste of money.

Hostel pub crawls are simply not a good deal economically. They work by guests paying a small fee to join a group of people from (usually) a few other local hostels. A guide leads you around to various bars/clubs. Sometimes the pub crawl is free, and sometimes it includes a free drink or two.

The guide/company gets a kickback, so don’t expect a cheap, authentic or local experience. Most pub crawls require participants to pay for all of their drinks. If you wind up at a club, expect a cover charge. The costs add up, and it would be significantly less expensive to go to a bar on your own. Not to mention, you can choose a place that fits your style.

In theory, a pub crawl sounds good. More often than not, hostel pub crawls are club crawls leading guests on an overpriced tour of crappy places to party with other backpackers. Don’t waste your money.

Hostel tips for guests are wide-ranging. Some tips for staying in hostels are obvious, while others are learned from experiences, personal preferences and first-hand comparisons.

The reasons why travelers should stay in hostels are abundant. Tips to make the hostel experience better are equally prevalent and even more important. Take a chance on a hostel, and use these tips to ensure a better, smoother and smarter travel experience

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Granada or Seville, Who Wins?

Talk to People

Get Off Your Phone!

Privacy Expectations

Timely, Courteous Packing

Packing Tips for Hostels

Travel Towel

Earplugs

Sleep Mask

Lock

Please, Take a Shower!

Drink Responsibly

Don’t Sleep All Day

Take the Tours

Skip the Pub Crawl

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