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Hangry Backpacker

Complete Travel Guide to Sighisoara, Romania

March 26, 2023 By Hangry Backpacker 2 Comments

The small city of Sighisoara, Romania is one of the most popular places to travel in the historic region of Transylvania. Medieval towers, unique local culture and a picturesque old town draw visitors from around the world.

Photogenic Street of Sighisoara Romania with cobblestone streets and colorful old buildings

Travel to Sighisoara, like much of Transylvania, is a tour through the region’s unique blend of ethnic groups. Groups who have called Sighisoara home include Hungarians, Germans and, of course, Romanians.

While other cities in this part of Romania may be more notorious for their Transylvanian heritage, I find it stands out more in Sighisoara. Despite most of the ethnic Germans and Hungarians leaving over the last century, small populations still reside here. It’s not uncommon to see signs in the city in three languages. Although Romanian culture dominates today, the visible impact of the Hungarians and Germans over the last few hundred years is unmissable.

Sighisoara’s culture and history is certainly a worthwhile reason to visit the city, but the main attraction to travel here is to explore the time capsule that is the Old Town, the Historic City Center. Here are the top attractions, the best things to do and everything you need to know about travel to Sighishoara, Romania:

Highlights and Things to Do

Sighisoara can be roughly separated into two parts: the medieval old city and the surrounding “modern” city.

The Historic Center of Sighisoara, a UNESCO-designated site, is a medieval fortress town marked by walls and towers. It is essentially the high ground, with an even higher hill in the middle that looks down over the ‘newer’ city and the surrounding countryside.

Looking down busy main road in Lower Town of Sighisoara Romania with colorful buildings

The rest of Sighisoara is largely old buildings from the 1800s to the early 20th Century. There are a few modern structures in the mix. Strangely, Communist era architecture is not especially prominent. In this sense, Sighisoara is lucky. For that matter, we’re all lucky that this piece of Transylvanian heritage survived the Romanian Communist era.

The Historic Center of Sighisoara

The Historic Center of Sighisoara sits atop a hill that originally served as a citadel. With the advantage of the high ground and magnificent views, the location is ideal for a fortress in that era.

Today, the Historic Center of Sighisoara is a wonderfully well-preserved old town. From the cobblestone streets (they’re old, so watch your step!) to the colorful buildings, historic churches, medieval towers and walls, it’s easy to see why Sighisoara’s Historic Center is a UNESCO-designated site.

Pretty door in Transylvania

Walking through Old Town is a stroll through a living, breathing postcard. After you walk up the hill – and walking is pretty much how you’ll have to get there – there’s a picturesque scene awaiting around each corner.

The Historic Center of Sighisoara is small, but this is where you’ll find most points of interest.

The Towers of Sighisoara

Sighisoara’s most famous landmarks include its medieval towers. There are nine remaining towers (of 14 originally) you can see, and you can visit most of them.

Medieval tower and gate in Old Town Sighisoara Romania

The towers that survive today are part of the reason the Historic Center of Sighisoara is so unique. In many old cities, the surviving medieval walls, towers and other structures have been absorbed and become part of the modern cityscape. At times, these structures are unrecognizable. The medieval citadel of Sighisoara is still very much visible.

The most striking and prominent tower is the Clock Tower, Turnul cu Ceas. Visiting the Sighisoara Clock Tower is one of the best things to do when you travel to Transylvania.

steps leading up to Turnul cu Ceas, the medieval Clock Tower and top travel attraction, in Sighisoara

A visit costs 28 Romanian Lei (about $6 USD as of March 2023). This is the price to visit the tower and the adjacent prison/torture museum. There isn’t much to see there, so I suggest paying only to visit the tower. The tower appears to, well, tower over everything else, but the climb to the top isn’t as difficult as it looks. There are exhibits all the way up with a lot of information (mostly in Romanian, though). Note: The Clock Tower has short hours and is closed on Mondays**

At the top, the view of Old Town is spectacular. The view over the rest of the city is equally great. The perspective of other towers and buildings is unique. This is definitely something you do not want to miss when visiting Sighisoara.

Sighisoara Lower Town view from Clock Tower

Most of the other towers are open to the public, though one or two are on private property and not accessible. Of note, the Tinsmiths’ Tower is definitely not open to the public. The other towers are worth a visit (if/when they are open). There is a lot of history and unique views with each one.

Piata Cetati

Piata Cetati (Citadel Square in English) is the main town square of the old city. Naturally, this is the de facto center of Old Town Sighisoara.

Piata Cetati Citadel Square Sighisoara Romania

It is a small square. There are several restaurants, a few souvenir shops, a couple of points of interest and a nice view of the area. This is a good spot to find a bench and take in the scene. The restaurants in Citadel Square are also a great place to stop for a break, and I strongly recommend taking the time for a meal or drink here.

Churches of Sighisoara

There are three notable churches in Sighisoara’s Old Town. Interestingly, none of them are Romanian Orthodox churches. Despite Romania being an overwhelmingly Orthodox nation today, the Historic Center of Sighisoara remains true to the local history in this respect.

The most prominent church in the city is the Church on the Hill (Biserica din Deal). Sighisoara’s Church on the Hill sits at the highest point of the old city, visible across the city and from many miles away. It dates back to the 1400s and is the most historically significant church in Sighisoara.

The Church on the Hill

The Church on the Hill is remarkable in appearance and position. It is very Transylvanian in design – that is, it’s definitely German in appearance – and stands like a beacon to local history. Like most Lutheran churches in Transylvania, it functions more as a museum today.

I have a thing about paying to enter churches. I was prepared to enter this one, but it turns out it costs to enter and was closed anyway. Despite that, perhaps this is an exception I will make when I return to Sighisoara. There is a lot of history here, and it may be worth the small price of admission on this occasion.

Church on the Hill old German cemetery in Romania

Aside from entrance to the church, the location is worth the hike up the hill. And there is an historic cemetery adjacent to this church. If you’re into this sort of thing, cemeteries can be beautiful, intriguing places to visit. This one is full of history and almost entirely consists of German names on the headstones. It’s a great, unique way to explore the local history.

The Church of the Dominican Monastery

The most visible church when you are in Old Town is the Biserica Masastirii Dominicane, the Monastery Church or the Church of the Dominican Monastery. It sits near Citadel Square and the Clock Tower, right by the edge of the citadel walls.

Sighisoara Old Town and Monastery Church from Clock Tower

This is a large Lutheran Church. In true Lutheran fashion, there isn’t a lot happening on the exterior of the church. It’s a nice church, and it’s prominent. But it is fairly simplistic. The interior also seems to be fairly Lutheran, but, unfortunately, it was not open during my time in Sighisoara.

St. Joseph’s Cathedral

Catedrala Sfantul Iosif, Saint Joseph’s Cathedral, is the Roman Catholic church in Sighisoara’s Historic Center. This small Catholic church sits on the north side of the Citadel, with sweeping views of the city, valley and mountains in the distance.

Curiously, the smallest of the three churches in Old Town is the Catholic one. Today’s ethnic minority of Hungarians (Catholics) is considerably larger than the remaining population of ethnic Germans (Lutherans). However, that is one of the things that makes Sighisoara such an remarkable place to visit. It’s about the history; historically, there were a lot of Germans.

St Joseph Catholic Cathedral in Transylvania

St. Joseph’s Cathedral is fairly small. It is quiet, simple and entrance is free. At least, I think entrance is free. I walked right inside. There were a couple of people working inside who looked at me curiously, but did not seem to mind that I was looking around. This church is different than a lot of Catholic churches I’ve visited in Europe. It has a simple interior. There isn’t much to see inside, but it’s a nice place to visit.

Holy Trinity Church

When mentioning churches in Romania, it’s hard to ignore the Romanian Orthodox churches that dominate most of the country. The Romanian Orthodox Cathedral of Sighisoara, Biserica Sfanta Treime or Holy Trinity Church, is an unmissable landmark in the city.

View of Holy Trinity Romanian Orthodox Cathedral from Historic Center of Sighisoara

Sitting on the bank of the small Tarnava Mare River that runs through the city, the Holy Trinity Church rises above all nearby structures. As an Orthodox church, it stands out, too. It’s not very old, but take the chance if you have the opportunity to visit. Romanian Orthodox churches are stunning inside and out.

Enjoy a Walk through History

With fewer than 30,000 people, Sighisoara is a small city. The Historic Center is even smaller. Despite the small size, it is easy to spend hours wandering around the old town.

I cannot stress how pretty the scenes in the old town are. It really is one of those places where you cannot help but take a picture around every corner. As you wander around looking at the picturesque old buildings and towers, you will suddenly come across a great viewpoint. These are all around the Historic Center.

Springtime flowers and sun along cobblestone streets of Sighisoara Romania old town

Away from the old city, “modern” Sighisoara is worth a wander, too. Parts of the area are starkly different from the scenes of the citadel. There are structures from the Communist era and others that are more typical of Romanian life in small cities, neither modern, Communist nor medieval.

Tarnava Mare River in Sighisoara Romania

The main reason to stray from the Historic Center of Sighisoara is to see what the city is like away from the tourist bubble. It’s not as photogenic as Old Town, though there are places with great views looking back at the citadel.

It’s important to remember that life in places we travel exists away from tourist sites, and you can see this here. This is also a great way to find local places to stop and have a drink or bite to eat on the cheap.

The Scholars’ Stairs

The Scholars’ Stairs is essentially a stairway. It connects the lower part of Old Town to the Church on the Hill and dates back to the 1600s.

The 176 steps are covered by a wooden shelter, presumably to protect churchgoers from the elements in the past. There isn’t a lot to these stairs, but it is an important landmark of the city. And it’s cool that these steps have survived so long.

Looking up the dark and covered 176 steps of the Scholars Stairs in Sighisoara Romania

Also, how often do you get the chance to walk up a notable, medieval set of stairs? That’s something, right? Whether or not the Scholars’ Stairs is worth the recognition it receives, it’s the best way to reach the Church on the Hill, adjacent cemetery and great view at the top.

Hilltop Viewpoint

As mentioned several times already, there are spectacular views of Sighisoara and the surrounding area from various places atop the medieval citadel of Old Town. However, my favorite viewpoint in and of Sighisoara is a hill across from the Historic Center.

I love finding a good view. My favorite viewpoints are those without crowds. When I walked to this hilltop viewpoint, there were only two other people. In a delightful turn of events, the couple insisted I join them.

Best view of Sighisoara Citadel from hilltop

They spoke a little English, and it turns out they are both ethnic Germans, one Swabian and one Saxon. The man was born in Sighisoara but emigrated with his family to Germany when Ceausescu and Communist Romania fell. His wife was from another area of Transylvania. They were back to visit a few family members and see their home. The couple was also kind enough to share some local knowledge of how the area has changed in the last 30 years.

This was a fascinating encounter for myself, and it was another example of the wonderful travel lesson of “you never know who you might meet.”

This empty hill has a tremendous panoramic view looking back at the Historic Center of Sighisoara. You can find it on Google Maps called “mic punct de belvedere,” which translates to “small viewpoint.” It takes about 20-30 minutes to reach this hill from the Old Town. The directions on Google Maps are accurate.

Vlad the Impaler’s (Dracula) House

It’s hard to escape the Dracula narrative in Romania, especially in Transylvania. This is understandable. It’s a significant driver of tourism. And the same can be said for Sighisoara.

The significance of Vlad the Impaler in Sighisoara is that the house in which he was (supposedly) born is in the Historic Center. There is a lack of concrete evidence that Vlad was indeed born in Sighisoara, much less in this specific house. However, it is known that his father was here when little Vlad was born.

Despite the uncertainty, this is the commonly accepted site of Vlad the Impaler’s birth and early years. Dracula association aside, Vlad is a fascinating historical figure. This building is one of the oldest in Sighisoara, too. I do not suggest paying to visit the small museum, but it is a historical site nonetheless.

Eating in Sighisoara

Eating in Sighisoara is a fun way to get a taste for Romanian history, particularly the local history in Transylvania. It does not come without its challenges, though.

Sighisoara can be broken up into two distinct areas to eat: Lower Town and the Historic Old Town. Old Town has restaurants scattered throughout the area, but the primary concentration is in the main square. This is an excellent spot to grab a bite to eat in a picturesque, historic setting. These restaurants are pretty good, too, and prices are cheaper than many of the newer, trendier restaurants in the city below.

Palinca in Citadel Square Sighisoara Romania
palinca in the square!

Overall, eating in Sighisoara is not much different from eating in other popular Transylvanian cities, such as Sibiu. Modern Romanian is the most common cuisine. The difference in Sighisoara is that elements of other historic ethnic groups are slightly more visible.

History through Food

Food in Sighisoara restaurants is a reflection of modern-day Transylvania. There are, of course, usual Romanian dishes on most menus. German history is noted in some of the food, but the larger (remaining) Hungarian minority has a more visible representation in local cuisine.

Langos, a fried flatbread, is sold in several spots around Sighisoara. Goulash, another Hungarian staple, is a common sight on menus.

Langos with ham and cheese and Red Wine in Transylvania
this is how you eat cheap in Sighisoara

Aside from a few Hungarian and German influences, Romanian food dominates most menus. You won’t have any issue finding delicious, local food for a good price.

Challenges of Eating in Sighisoara

The challenges of eating in Sighisoara are the times and options. Old Town is extremely tourism-dependent. When there are fewer tourists in the offseason or during the middle of the week, restaurants tend to close earlier or not open at all.

You needn’t worry about finding a place to eat, but don’t expect to not see a full slate of options at all times. More info on when to visit Sighisoara below.

The other challenge of eating in Sighisoara is away, or rather below, from the Historic Old Town. The highest concentration of restaurants in Sighisoara is in the area at the base of the Citadel, essentially on the same level as most of the city.

There are a lot of restaurants in this area, but the options are mixed. A few cheap spots and a few places with good local food are more difficult to locate among countless trendy spots, pricier tourist cafes and Italian restaurants.

To be fair, food in the lower town is still pretty affordable, and this is where you can find the few truly cheap places to eat in Sighisoara.

Bowl of Goulash Hungarian food in Transylvania
Hungarian food in Sighisoara!

Hangry Backpacker Recommendations

  • Casa Wagner – Great local food at this family-run hotel. Sit outside in the square!
  • Unnamed Langos Shop – Next to 5 To Go, nice spot for a cheap snack
  • Atelier Specialty Coffee – Trendy but good spot for an overpriced coffee and pastry
  • Nuvela – This little cafe has cheap wine and great langos
  • The bar at MYstical Transylvania – Outdoor bar/garden has local craft beer in a chill setting
  • Pensiune Casa Kuhn – This Old Town family-run hotel has good local cuisine, including Hungarian fare
  • Helios – Unpretentious outdoor cafe with super cheap beer and snacks. Ignore Google Maps permanent closure update (it is still open)

Travel To/From and In Sighisoara

Sighisoara is easy to reach for tourists. The best way to get to the city is via train. The train station is on the edge of town. It is about 15-minutes walking from the Sighisoara train station to the Historic Center. You can add about 10 minutes if you have bags or stop to snap a photo or two. The walk is easy until you have to walk up the hill. You can expect to break a sweat then.

Front of Sighisoara Train Station

You can take a taxi if you wish. Romanian taxis are notoriously untrustworthy. Whether this remains true in Sighisoara, I cannot confirm. Either way, I wouldn’t pay more than 10 Lei for the taxi. It’s a short trip.

There are direct trains to/from Sibiu and Brasov. The train from Sibiu takes about two-and-a-half hours. I paid 13 Lei (less than $3 USD). The train to/from Brasov takes about three hours, and I paid 39 Lei (about $6.50 USD). I’m not sure why it was more expensive. This may be because the train from Sibiu was first come, first serve seating, and the train to Brasov had reserved seats. Either way, the trip to Brasov is not much longer or any more comfortable. Both journeys are easy and cheap.

If you are coming from Bucharest, Cluj or another city, you will have to transfer trains somewhere.

You can also take a bus. Buses are more comfortable and usually faster. However, if you are coming from or going to Sibiu, take the train. It is faster and much cheaper. For Brasov, there isn’t as much difference in price/time when comparing train and bus.

Before you travel to Sighisoara, check out the Hangry Backpacker’s Guide to Transportation in Romania for Tourists.

Getting around Sighisoara is easy. Most of the restaurants and sites attracting tourists are central and near the Historic Center. Otherwise, you can walk anywhere you need to go. This is a small city. If you wish to take a taxi, negotiate a price for all passengers COMBINED before you enter the cab.

When is the Best Time to Visit?

The best time to visit Sighisoara is really any time at all. Despite the wonderful sights and deep history in this city, it is a sleepy place. Business and tourists numbers do increase slightly on weekends. If you can visit during the week, you will avoid the crowds.

Empty street no crowds in Historic Center of Sighisoara Romania

This is a mountainous area, and it snows during Winter. Personally, I would not want to walk on the steep paths or old, stone streets when they are wet and/or icy.

Summers here are warm and humid. To me, it’s pleasant. Keep in mind, though, that many hotels, especially in Old Town, do not have air conditioning. These are often old buildings, and there isn’t much need for A/C most of the year.

The shoulder seasons (Spring or Fall) are your best bet for travel to Sighisoara in mild weather. You’ll avoid the Summer crowds and the Winter cold.

How Long Should You Stay?

To be frank, there isn’t that much to see or do in Sighisoara. It is absolutely a photogenic place, and there is a ton of history, too. As far as famous attractions and activities, there isn’t a lot.

Despite that, it is a nice place to slowly enjoy and explore. The old city is so well-preserved, you can spend a couple of days enjoying just that and not feel like it’s time to move on.

Old Buildings and medieval tower Transylvania Romania

However, to be fair to travelers who do not have an abundance of time on their hands, let’s be more specific.

Two days is plenty of time to thoroughly see Sighisoara. Truly, you can see what you “need to see” in a day. Two nights and one day will give you enough time.

Three days or more will give you the time to see “everything” and then some. I stayed for 3 days and enjoyed it all. Another day might have been one too many for me. Of course, if you have a rental car, you can explore the surrounding area with any extra time.

Where to Stay in Sighisoara

I prefer to stay in hostels, but Romania is lacking in the hostel department. I found one single hostel in Sighisoara. Unfortunately, it was entirely booked with a school group during my visit.

There are not a lot of hotels in Sighisoara. Most of these are small, family-run hotels. In fact, I recall seeing only a single large hotel and no chain hotels anywhere. Perhaps I missed it, but even an online search yields small hotels.

I thoroughly enjoyed my small hotel. I stayed a few nights at Casa Wagner, which sits directly in Citadel Square. The staff is friendly, and the hotel definitely has an old charm. It’s a time capsule of sorts but in the best way. Casa Wagner also operates one of the restaurants in the square. My food there was delicious.

Casa Wagner Hotel Romania
interior of Casa Wagner Hotel – a lot of Sighisoara hotels look this old

Sighisoara’s efforts of preserving the past in their culture and architecture make it a unique travel destination in Romania. There is no shortage of history, and this is an ideal spot to slow down and enjoy the remarkable scene that is the UNESCO-designated Historic Center.

Old Town Sighisoara Church on the Hill from Clock Tower viewpoint

Sighisoara is an excellent place to travel when you visit Romania. The history is visible along the picturesque streets and medieval surroundings. Even better, this is accompanied by great food and stunning panoramic views. If you’re touring through Transylvania, Sighisoara is a must-visit destination.

Filed Under: City Guides

Complete Travel Guide to Sibiu, Romania

February 11, 2023 By Hangry Backpacker Leave a Comment

Sibiu is one of the most popular travel destinations in Romania. The historic city in Transylvania has a long and interesting history that is visible across the city. A mix of historic, picturesque and peculiar attractions have made Sibiu one of the most popular travel destinations in Romania.

Sibiu Romania Travel Guide in old town small square

The historic region of Transylvania was once an ethnically diverse region. A blend of Saxons, Swabians, Hungarians and more, Lutheranism and Catholicism were the dominant Christian denominations. Prior to World War I, Sibiu was home to more Germans and Hungarians than Romanians.

The history of Sibiu (and Transylvania, in general) is what makes it such a great place to travel. Residents of the past left their mark on the city, and the historic old town is extremely well-preserved. This led to Sibiu being named a European Capital of Culture in 2007.

Today, the area is overwhelmingly Romanian. Ethnic Germans and Hungarians emigrated or were pushed out over the course of the 20th century. Only a few thousand remain in Sibiu today. From architecture to food, the impact of their ancestors remains visible and a reason Sibiu is a popular place to visit today.

Here’s what you need to know about travel to Sibiu, Romania:

Highlights & Top Attractions of Sibiu

The historic city of Sibiu, the old town, is roughly divided into two portions: the Upper Town and the Lower Town.

The Upper Town is where most of the top attractions in Sibiu are located. This is also where a majority of tourists spend their time. The primary exception to this is the portions of Lower Town that are right next to Upper Town. Here, there are a few cafes, shops and sites. For the most part, though, Lower Town is quiet.

For obvious reasons, Upper Town is the part of Sibiu that receives most of the attention. That doesn’t mean you should ignore the lower portion of the historic old city.

I thoroughly enjoyed walking around the Lower Town. It is predominantly residential, though you will see the occasional shop or BnB.

Empty quiet street of Lower Town in historic center of Sibiu

The calm walks through the Lower Town are a great opportunity to see a historic side of Sibiu without the crowds. As you venture further out, there are other interesting places to visit. One of my favorite spots in Lower Town is not of the calm variety. Rather, the Piata Cibin (Cibin Market) is a local market. You can find almost anything you can imagine here. 

The market certainly reminds one that Romania was a Communist state for decades, but it also is a brief glimpse into local life. If you’re staying in Sibiu for an extended period of time, you’ll want to shop here to save money and buy local.

Medieval Towers & City Walls

A walk through Sibiu’s historic center is surreal. There is a strong postcard feeling around every corner. As a city dating back nearly a thousand years, Sibiu’s history includes much from the Medieval period. With effective preservation efforts, many of the city’s medieval structures are still visible. In particular, the towers and walls are notable marks of the city.

Medieval stone and brick city walls with covered wooden structure on top in Sibiu Romania

There aren’t many places in the world where you can climb 12th Century towers or enjoy your morning coffee atop an 800-year-old wall.

The City Walls of Sibiu are largely part of existing buildings or parks that are there for your viewing pleasure. A couple of sections of the walls are part of museums and not always open to visitors. For the most part, though, they are there for your enjoyment.

The medieval towers of Sibiu stand out more. This might be because they tower above adjacent structures.

Medieval Carpenters Tower in Sibiu Romania

What I love about the towers of Sibiu is that several are still open to visitors. They aren’t really that tall, but most buildings in Sibiu’s historic center are only a few stories high. While other structures are taller (see next section), the views from the towers are unique.

Some of the towers are part of historic city defenses. Others were built by certain guilds. For instance, there is a Tinsmith’s Tower, a Tanner’s Tower and Potter’s tower.

View of Sibiu Grand Square from Council Tower
Grand Square, seen from the Council Tower

Turnul Sfatului, the Council Tower of Sibiu, is one of the most iconic landmarks in the city. It is hard to miss, separating the Grand and Small Square. Although other points are higher than this tower, the view from the Council Tower is hard to beat. It has great views of both squares, the immediate surrounding area and the large Cathedral nearby (see below).

The Council Tower of Sibiu is another great thing to do owing to the ease of climbing. As stated, it’s not that tall, but the views atop are much better than one might expect. It’s also a super cheap thing to do. Admission costs a mere 2 Lei – that’s about fifty cents! Climbing an 800-year-old tower to find a great view for less than a dollar – what a great reason to love Romania.

Churches of Sibiu

Sibiu’s rich religious history makes it a great place to visit a few spectacular churches. Of these, there are a few especially remarkable churches that you need to visit.

There are Catholic, Protestant and Orthodox Churches worth visiting in Sibiu. These make for excellent studies of architecture, regional history, religion, art and more. Sibiu’s churches help to create the picturesque scene that is this historic city. And there are even some fantastic views.

These two stand out from a city full of exceptional churches:

Lutheran Cathedral of Saint Mary

The Lutheran Cathedral of Saint Mary is one of the most obvious landmarks in Sibiu. The church is visible from across the city.

View of Lutheran Cathedral of Sibiu in Huet Square

This large Lutheran Cathedral was completed over 500 years ago. It is famous for its organs, so don’t miss the chance if you have the opportunity to hear them roar.

Despite being one of the largest and most visible structures in Sibiu, the Lutheran Cathedral functions more as a museum today. The local Lutheran community, consisting primarily of ethnic Germans, is a fraction of its historical size.

A tour through the Cathedral is interesting in the sense that it provides a stark contrast to the ornate interiors of Catholic churches and the relic-filled interiors of Orthodox churches. It is clearly a Protestant building.

The highlights of the exterior are the colorful designs of the shingles on the roof and the large tower. The tower of the church rises nearly 250 feet high.

A climb up the tower of the Lutheran Cathedral of Saint Mary is one of the best things to do in Sibiu. This is where you’ll find the best view in town. The walk to the top involves plenty of stairs. It’s not an extreme physical undertaking, but you’ll probably break a sweat.

The best view in Sibiu Romania from the bell tower of the Lutheran Cathedral
the best view in Sibiu

Although the Cathedral interior is notably Protestant and lacking over-the-top decor, it is still very nice. However, I would suggest skipping a visit to the church portion and sticking with the tower.

Why? It’s not free. It’s barely more than a dollar, but that’s not the point.

It irks me, to say the least, when active churches charge admission for entrance. Yes, this church functions more as a museum today, but it is not officially designated as such. Without going further into that, I can understand paying to visit the tower only. This requires upkeep for safety purposes, and heavy foot traffic impacts structural integrity. In the case of Sibiu’s Lutheran Cathedral, stick to paying to climb the tower. The view is unquestionably worth the 10 Lei price of admission.

Romanian Orthodox Holy Trinity Cathedral

The Holy Trinity Cathedral is the largest Romanian Orthodox church in Sibiu. The Byzantine style stands out among the predominantly Hungarian and German architecture you see in Transylvania.

exterior of neo-Byzantine Holy Trinity Romanian Orthodox Cathedral in Sibiu

The Orthodox Holy Trinity Cathedral is not as old as most of the other churches of Sibiu. It dates to the early 20th Century.

Don’t let its relative youth deter you. Orthodox churches are interesting sites to see for those more familiar with Western sites, and this Cathedral is magnificent. With inspiration from the Hagia Sophia, the Byzantine style dominates the structure, but there are elements of Transylvania, too.

interior of Neo-Byzantine Holy Trinity Romanian Orthodox Cathedral in Sibiu

The interior is unquestionably Orthodox. It is fairly dark, with lots of shiny relics and wall-to-wall artwork, beneath an enormous dome. There is no entrance fee.

Sibiu’s Historic Squares

The historic city of Sibiu has two primary squares – Piata Mica and Piata Mare. These translate to Lesser Square and Grand Square (or Small/Little Square and Big Square), respectively.

Naturally, Sibiu’s famous squares are the centers of tourism in the city. They are remarkably well-preserved, with most of the buildings dating back hundreds of years.

The best part about the Grand Square and the Small Square in Sibiu is that you can enjoy these spaces the way you want to and do so affordably. Most photogenic and historic squares of Europe are lined with restaurants, the ideal spot to grab a drink or bite to eat, take in the scene before you and watch for hours.

Sibiu Romania Grand Square Piata Mare
Piata Mare, Grand Square

Most of these picturesque, cafe-lined squares of Europe are also expensive places to sit and watch the world move along.

Crowded Sibiu Small Square with market stalls
Piata Mica, Lesser/Small Square

Romania is different. It’s cheap. You can affordably sit for a couple of hours in Sibiu’s Grand Square and have a few beers or glasses of wine. I did this on a few occasions. Romanian brews set me back less than $3 per beer. Local wine is only slightly more expensive.

One afternoon, I ate lunch in the Small Square. An entire pizza plus two beers was about $8, fantastic view and tip included.

If you’re on a mission to eat and drink as cheap as you possibly can, skip the cafes in the squares. This is the center of the historic old city, the center of tourism in Sibiu. So, yes, it is generally the most expensive area to eat and drink. But ‘expensive’ in Romania isn’t the same as expensive – or even average – in much of Western Europe.

But where else can you have a $2 beer in a historic square in Europe? There aren’t many options. Even the more expensive places in Romania are cheaper than comparable sites across Europe.

Take advantage of the chance to enjoy a moment to slow down in an historic location surrounded by centuries-old beautiful buildings. There aren’t many places in Europe where a budget traveler can do this, and who knows how long that will be the case in Romania.

Bridge of Lies

The Bridge of Lies is a small, unassuming footbridge in the center of Sibiu. It spans a pedestrian street that connects the Small Square with lower portions of the historic city center.

Aside from being architecturally significant – it is the second-oldest cast iron bridge in Europe, so that’s something – the Bridge of Lies isn’t that important. As far as bridges go, it’s a nice one. And the location does make for a nice photo.

The top of the bridge is where you’ll find most of the photo-takers. It’s definitely one of the top ‘selfie spots’ in Sibiu.

cast iron Bridge of Lies in Sibiu Romania from the street below

The interesting thing about Romania’s oldest cast iron bridge are the fun legends with which it is associated. The local legend here is that the bridge will collapse if you tell a lie while standing upon it.

Hopefully, the structural integrity of the Bridge of Lies is not dependent upon your honesty. Even so, test the legend at your own risk!

Sibiu’s Bridge of Lies is a nice landmark, though. And the location directly adjacent to the Small Square makes this an easy thing to do in Sibiu. Make sure to snap a few pictures, and tell the truth when you’re standing there!

The Eyes of Sibiu

The most intriguing travel attraction in Sibiu is the famous “Eyes of Sibiu.” 

All across the city, roofs of buildings and homes are adorned with dormers that look like watching eyes. The dormers are a little creepy but also humorous.

Medieval Tanners Tower next to house with Eyes of Sibiu

Despite legends claiming the dormers are meant to appear like they are spying on you, the ever-watchful Eyes of Sibiu are little more than a local trend from some 500 hundred years ago. They do, however, make for a fun and curious feature of the city.

Dormers of this type can be seen in other places in Transylvania, but Sibiu has the highest concentration. At times, you genuinely feel like someone is watching you as you turn a corner and suddenly meet two giant eyes straight ahead. I had a bit of fun with them, as you can see below.

 

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Stroll Around “New” Sibiu

Most visitors do not leave the historic center of Sibiu. To be fair, there’s plenty to do here to occupy your time. However, the city in the 21st Century is much more than a quaint, old town.

There are not a lot of historic sites or pretty buildings in the newer portions of Sibiu. It is an interesting contrast to the old town, though. The marks of Communist architecture are abundant. If you enjoy seeing a place beyond the postcard views and ‘insta-worthy’ scenes, take a walk away from Sibiu’s historic center.

Modern Sibiu neighborhood away from historic center with communist era block apartments
‘new’ Sibiu – more interesting than it looks!

This is where most locals live and spend their time. If you want some semblance of authenticity when you travel to Romania, make sure to get away from the tourist bubbles. In Sibiu, you can walk 5 minutes from the historic center and be in a totally different place. On the positive end, New Sibiu is extremely cheap, and the people are just as friendly.

How Long Should You Stay?

I could easily spend a few weeks in Sibiu. If you use Sibiu as a base to visit nearby towns and villages, even those which might be a couple of hours away, this is a great place for slow travel. Within 1-2 hours from Sibiu, there are national parks, attractive villages, historic sites and more.

For a typical visitor, you can see the main sights and a little more in two days. The historic center of the city is where pretty much all of the notable sights are located. You can visit the churches, towers, squares and wander in between in a little more than one day. Two days allows for you to do all of this and more at a slower pace.

I spent five days in Sibiu. On one hand, I saw ‘everything’ with time to spare. At the same time, I enjoyed walking around the city and could have done so for a few more days. The extra days allow time to explore away from the historic center, an interesting contrast to the old town with few tourists and visit sites outside of town.

The overall vibe in Sibiu is calm. It’s no surprise that there is an expat community here. Whether you spend a couple of days or a couple of months in Sibiu, there is plenty to do.

Where to Stay in Sibiu

You want to stay in the city center when visiting Sibiu. Most of the attractions will be within walking distance, and there are restaurants in every direction. Romania is cheap, so you won’t have to pay typical European “city center prices.”

Accommodation in the Sibiu city center is largely small, independent operators. With a few exceptions, most of it is of the BnB or family-owned hotel variety. Staff/owners are friendly, and prices are usually affordable. Bigger hotels are not far away but will require a walk to reach the historic sites.

Maybe it’s a good thing that Sibiu’s cityscape has yet to be corrupted by large chains. The economic benefits tend to lean toward the local area. However, many travelers seek consistency and reliability when choosing where to stay during their travels. In that sense, Sibiu is lacking.

Backpackers and budget travelers don’t have many hostel options either. I love hostels for so many reasons, but most of Romania is lagging behind in the hostel game.

The two hostel options in Sibiu are B13 Hostel and PanGeea Hostel. Neither of these is great.

I stayed at B13 Hostel. The facility itself is maze-like and large. It’s a cool space and has so much potential. Staff was horrible, though. They were largely absent, offered absolutely no help in or out of the hostel and were not local. It was never cleaned, and the atmosphere was nonexistent. It pains me, because this place has so much potential to be a great hostel.

I recommend PanGeea Hostel. While I did not stay there, the reviews are slightly better. I did visit, though, and this hostel also has the coolest bar in Sibiu on site. The rooms appear to be about the same level of mediocre.

For budget travelers, hostels are still the cheapest option in Sibiu. Leave your high expectations at home. Otherwise, lodging in Sibiu is affordable, and there are plenty of small hotels from which to choose.

How to Get There

Depending on your idea of a good time, transportation in Romania for tourists can be a fun undertaking. If you don’t mind circuitous routes and long travel days through the countryside, Romania is the place for you. Be sure to check out our Romania Transportation Guide before you visit.

Sibiu’s main train station and bus station are adjacent to one another. This is where you are most likely to arrive/depart. From there, it is about a 15-minute walk to the Grand Square.

Exterior of Sibiu Romania Train Station with taxis lined up in front

Getting to and from Sibiu is not especially difficult. It can, however, take quite a bit of time.

Despite being one of the largest cities in Transylvania and one of most popular tourist destinations in Romania, direct routes to Sibiu from other cities are few.

The easiest way to reach Sibiu from most places is via bus. If you are coming from Brasov, the train is best. Otherwise, even larger cities like Cluj and Timisoara require connections as part of long journeys.

Sibiu is less than 150 miles from Bucharest. That 150 miles takes over 8 hours by train and almost 6 hours by bus. These times assume there are no delays. We suggest taking the bus.

Taking the Bus from Bucharest to Sibiu

My bus ride from Bucharest to Sibiu was supposed to take less than 5 hours. The journey ultimately took over 6 hours. You can drive yourself in about 4 hours, but you aren’t immune to road delays.

The bus is the best way to reach Sibiu from Bucharest. It is slightly more expensive than the train, but the bus is faster and much more comfortable.

interior view of intercity transportation bus in Romania

You can find the bus to Sibiu leaving Bucharest at Autogara Militari (bus station). Tickets are purchased from the bus driver. There’s no need to go inside. The bus times and destinations are listed on signs next to each berth. If you are uncertain, walk up to people near a bus and ask, “Sibiu?”

The Romanian people are generally helpful and friendly. Once you find your bus, put your bag underneath. Hop in line, and pay the driver. Seats are not reserved. Pick your favorite row, and get comfortable. It’s going to be a long but scenic ride!

I paid 84 lei for my bus. Current prices on the best site for Romanian bus transportation is 91 lei. That’s less than $20. The train is cheaper, but the bus is a far more comfortable and scenic trip.

After you arrive at the Sibiu bus station, it’s easy to reach the historic old city. You can see the church towers in the distance, slightly uphill from the station. The walk takes about 15 minutes to reach the center.

The Best Time to Travel to Sibiu

Summer is the best time of year to travel to Sibiu. Romania is fairly warm and humid during Summer months, but that is relative.

As someone who is from a place that is miserably hot from June through August (and just regular hot two months either side of that), I found the weather in Sibiu to be excellent. Days are warm, and nights are pleasant, even cool.

Piata Mica Sibiu Romania in the evening

Rain falls evenly throughout the year, so there’s no need to avoid any kind of rainy season. I suggest packing a rain jacket.

Sibiu gets cold during Winter, but it doesn’t receive an annoying amount of snowfall. There is a ski resort less than an hour away.

Sibiu has a famous Christmas market that makes December a time to brave the cold. Naturally, it attracts a lot of visitors. For Christmas market enthusiasts, it might be a great alternative to the jam-packed, more famous Christmas markets in Western Europe.

Weather aside, the time to visit Sibiu is now. I say this because it is growing in popularity. Tourism in Romania (pre-2020) was growing due to its affordability and wide offerings of history, nature and unique culture. Sibiu is a place that combines all of that, and it will only grow more popular and busier in the years to come.

Eating in Sibiu

Eating in Sibiu is tricky. A majority of tourists will find themselves in the historic center for most, if not all, of their time here. Consequently, there are a ton of restaurants in the center from which to choose.

Restaurants are not exclusive to the squares, either. Side streets are home to more restaurants, cafes and pubs.

How do you navigate the sea of restaurants in Sibiu?

Busy pedestrian street in Sibiu Romania - Strada Nicolae Balcescu lined with restaurants and lots of people walking

In a sense, you cannot avoid tourist restaurants in the historic center. This area is dominated by tourism, so prices will be higher than elsewhere in the city.

The good news is that Sibiu is a budget-friendly travel destination. Despite being a tourist town, it’s cheaper than Bucharest. There are ‘local’ places to eat – and you can get more details in the Hangry Backpacker’s Sibiu Food Guide soon! – but it takes a little effort.

What I like about eating in Sibiu is the ease of eating Romanian food in comparison to other popular destinations within the country. Most of the cafes in the squares serve local food. The elements of Hungarian and German influence of food in Transylvania is present in Sibiu but less so than other cities.

Romanian Craft Beer and pizza in piata mica
hard to beat a good, cheap pizza with a view!

In general, the food in Sibiu is good and affordable. And it’s easy to find decent Romanian grub. If you want to save money, search farther away from the squares.


Sibiu is on most short lists of places to travel in Romania. Due to the culture, architecture and setting, it is also gaining notoriety as a great place to travel in general.

Romania is gaining traction as a great place to retire, largely due to the temperate climate and low cost of living. Sibiu has become the home to a growing expat community, and it’s easy to see why.

View of Lower City Sibiu Romania historic center

For those of us who want to visit Sibiu less permanently, the general atmosphere is an attractive one. It is an excellent place to slow down, wander around and enjoy your travel destination. From food to history, you can experience Transylvania in the ideal setting.

Romania’s capital city has a lot offer, but tourism in Bucharest often revolves around a party. That’s not the case in Transylvania. There’s fun to have, but partying is not the goal. Sibiu is a place to travel to experience Romania and appreciate its unique history and beauty.

Filed Under: City Guides

Transportation in Romania for Tourists

February 5, 2023 By Hangry Backpacker Leave a Comment

Getting around Romania and navigating local transportation is a fairly simple and straightforward process. The quality of infrastructure in the country may lag behind that of most other nations in the European Union, but that doesn’t mean it’s an exceptional challenge.

Transportation in Romania at a train station in Sinaia with tourists exiting train and on platform

In practice, transportation in Romania is a few decades behind. You will have to exercise patience and prepare for some longer-than-expected journeys. But it is generally fairly cheap.

Getting around Romania can be a little tedious, but the country is well-connected with buses and trains that are more than adequate for most tourists.

Transportation in Romania – Via Train

The Romanian rail network decently connects the major cities. It’s a noticeably slow process. A couple hundred miles often takes several hours. There are some gaps, too, and the southern half of the country (nearer to the Capital City, Bucharest) has a better network of rail lines.

Train schedule in station in Romania

The transportation gaps in trains in Romania usually mean that there will be a transfer involved. Just because two cities appear on a map as though they should have a direct rail link does not mean they do.

For instance, Iasi is one of the largest cities in Romania and is very poorly connected. Iasi is only about 200 miles from Bucharest, but taking the train between the two cities will take at least 6-7 hours (probably longer) and involves a transfer station.

It is even closer to Cluj-Napoca, another one of the largest Romanian cities, but trains on this route can take over 10 hours. That is excessive. It doesn’t help that transportation in Romania by train involves trips that stop (what seems like) every ten minutes to service (what seems like) every tiny village in the country. Connectivity is great for the small towns and rural areas, but express/nonstop options also make a ton of sense for many routes. These are few and far in between.

Additionally, Timisoara is due west of Sibiu. A highway links the significant cities, which are less than 150 miles apart in a straight line. There is, however, no direct route by train. A transfer in Arad is required, making the journey by rail over 8 hours.

train on platform in station in Romania

While trains in Romania may not mean a fast journey, they are reliable. They are immune from traffic jams and depart/arrive close to the listed times.

Costs

Train transportation in Romania is also the cheapest way to get around the country. For example, I paid 13 Lei for a two-and-a-half hour train from Sibiu to Sighisoara, That is LESS than $3!

There are few places in Europe with trains as cheap as those in Romania. If you are traveling on a budget or backpacking through Romania, trains are your best option.

Comfort

Romanian trains are not fancy. Most of the rail stock is a few decades old, with some newer cars in the mix.

To put it lightly, the older trains are well-worn. Seats are comfortable enough. These aren’t the cleanest trains, but it’s mostly just dirty windows and a bit of grime in the cracks from years of use.

Make sure you have a seat booked on your train. On one of my journeys, there were no assigned seats. It was first come, first serve, and the corridors of the cars were packed with a standing-room-only crowd.

Standing room only on train in Romania with passengers standing in the corridor of the car

However, most trains in Romania designate reserved cars and seats. Pay no attention to the numbers painted on the outside of the train. The paper taped on the inside of the windows designates the car and class number.

The best website to use to find train schedules in Romania is the CFR website.

Transportation in Romania – Via Bus

The next best method of transportation for getting around Romania is via bus. Buses in Romania offer a wider network of connections and destinations but also have a few negative aspects.

Inter-city buses in Romania are far more comfortable than trains. They are newer, have more legroom, better seats and offer air-conditioning. Buses often are not as full as trains, meaning you stand a decent chance to have a row to yourself.

interior view of Romanian intercity bus with empty seats

Bus transportation in Romania is also better connected than trains. Sometimes. Longer bus routes do not stop every 10 minutes like the trains do. However, the train stations in these small towns are often little more than train stops that can be a mile or two from the actual town. Instead, bus routes are more direct to a city/town center and serve a wider variety of cities and towns.

The primary downside to getting around Romania via bus is the price. Buses are considerably more expensive. The journey I mentioned above on the cheap train would have cost $10-12 on a bus. It’s not much, but it is 4x the price of the train. On longer routes, the price differences are more noticeable.

Buses in Romania are advertised to be faster. This is because they do not stop at every little town between City A and City B.

This is not a reliable metric.

Getting around Romania via bus can be faster, but it can also take a lot longer. Buses are subject to traffic jams. Romania’s limited infrastructure extends to the highway network.

I opted to take the bus from Bucharest to Sibiu. This is supposed to be the fastest, most direct option. In my case, it was supposed to take about 4.5 hours with a couple of cities served in between.

After 3 hours, we hit a traffic jam that lasted more than 2 hours. We then rode another hour before stopping at a rest stop for about 20 minutes. About 45 minutes later, we arrived in Sibiu. The 4.5 hour trip ended up being about 6.5 hours.

Roads are much busier around holidays and Summer weekends. Buses are a much more comfortable transportation option in Romania, but they are not reliable.

The best website to use to find a bus schedule in Romania is Autogari.

Renting a Car in Romania

Many of Romania’s most spectacular tourist attractions are not easy to reach. The transportation infrastructure in the country does a poor job of connecting more remote areas.

For tourists, reaching many of these places involves a long, tedious journey. There will be trains and buses with transfers, and you still might have to hire a car to reach a particular site.

So, why not rent a car for yourself?

Renting a car in Romania is definitely an effective and fast way to get around. You can stop when and where you want. You can visit out-of-the-way attractions with ease. And you can probably get there a lot faster.

Renting a car is not, however, a totally stress-free method of transportation in Romania. Though cheaper than in Western Europe, it is more expensive than public transportation. For Americans (probably not Californians, though), the price of gasoline in Romania is also a factor – average prices can exceed $8/gallon. Parking in cities is also a nightmare.

cars in Bucharest parked on the sidewalk
Bucharest sidewalk, also known as a parking lot

Personally, I am hesitant to rent a car in Romania. For one, I enjoy trains and buses. These are easy and cheap – perfect for backpackers. I also love staring out the window to enjoy the passing scenery. If I want to doze off, I close my eyes and let the train rock me to sleep.

The main reason you should exercise caution renting a car in Romania is what happens on the roads. Local drivers are absolutely nuts. Rural roads can be poorly maintained. And Google Maps in Romania sucks.

I’ll say it again: Romanian drivers are nuts. In cities, they have little regard for pedestrians. Outside of the city, they seem to have little regard for their own safety or that of others on the road. Exercise additional caution if you decide to rent a car in Romania.

Lovely people. Terrible drivers.

Transportation in Romania – Via Domestic Flight

Another transportation option for getting around Romania is to take domestic flights.

Travel times are cut significantly shorter when you can fly over all of the traffic jams, winding roads and slow-moving trains below. If your time in Romania is limited, this is an okay option.

Domestic flights in Romania are cheap. Of course, flights in Europe are generally pretty cheap. Air travel in the country is much more expensive than ground transportation, though.

The only reason I would even consider a domestic flight within Romania as a transportation option is a situation where I know exactly where I am going and time is in short supply. Otherwise, it’s not worth it.

The cost of flying in Romania is one major deterrent for me. The flights are cheap, yes; but, by the time you get an Uber to the airport and from the airport, you can easily double that price. Airport food is also much more expensive than the food around train and bus stations.

crowds of people waiting in line to check in at Bucharest OTP airport
typical scene at Bucharest OTP Airport

The main reason I would avoid domestic flights in Romania has to do with Bucharest OTP Airport. This place is an absolute disaster. The fact that this is the primary air connection for an entire country, a modern European country, is baffling.

OTP Airport is extremely busy. It seems to have a severe staffing shortage, and check-in times for flights are atrocious. Lines are unbelievably long for everything from check-in to food. People queue up in groups of hundreds, really just guessing, hoping they are in the right “line.”

After the additional costs to get to/from the airport and hours of waiting, it is hard for me to endorse any transportation to get around Romania that involves Bucharest OTP Airport.

I can put this another way, too. On my next trip to Romania, which I sincerely hope is sooner than later, my travel route will likely involve entering the country by rail.

Other, smaller airports in Romania may be more practical to use. Having not been to any other airport in the country, I cannot comment on that.

The Infamous Romanian Taxi

I have to mention taxis in Romania. By all accounts, tourists should avoid taxis in Romania.

Romanian cabs are notorious for scamming tourists. I cannot attest to this, personally, and I even met a couple of foreigners in the country who said they took taxis with no issues. However, the general consensus from locals is that taxis have a tendency to scam tourists.

If you have to use a taxi, agree on a price before you depart. Make it clear that the price includes all passengers riding in the vehicle. If you want extra peace of mind, record the agreement on your phone.

Most of my getting around in Romanian cities was on foot. On the few occasions I had to go a longer distance (i.e. the airport), I took an Uber. Uber in Romania is really cheap and scam-free.


Transportation in Romania is pretty easy, and there really aren’t any tricks to getting around the country. It’s a straightforward process. Buses and trains are safe and comfortable enough.

Sibiu Romania train station from platform across the tracks

What transportation in Romania lacks in connectivity and speediness, it makes up for this in cheapness and decent reliability. The most important thing you can do is get comfortable, be patient and enjoy the ride.

Filed Under: Get Lost

The Best Things to Do in Bucharest

January 8, 2023 By Hangry Backpacker Leave a Comment

Bucharest, Romania isn’t the most popular destination in Europe, but it has plenty of attractions and things to do for travelers with a wide variety of interests. But is the capital and largest city of Romania worth visiting in its own right?

Heaviest building in the world in Bucharest Romania, Palace of the Parliament, one of the top things to do

Some of the most common questions involving Bucharest and travel pertain to what one might actually do when visiting the city. Bucharest may be overshadowed by the large cities and capitals of neighboring countries, but, yes, it is worth a visit.

Bucharest isn’t the prettiest city. It’s not the flashiest travel destination. Eyesores from a tumultuous 20th century dominate the cityscape. Beneath the surface – everything that is overshadowed by the scars of communism and dictatorship – is a city in the midst of a resurgence with exciting history, culture, food and people.

Wandering Bucharest is the best way to see and experience the city. There are numerous curious sights and attractions to warrant a visit, but this list will give you a good base from which to start:

Explore Old Town

The first stop for most tourists in Bucharest is Old Town. Old Town Bucharest isn’t that old. Most of the buildings date to the 1800s. There are a few older structures in the mix, but the area was preserved and polished for tourism – cobblestone streets and all.

Bucharest Romania Old Town with cafe and restaurant on street

While it may not be the most photogenic or historic city center in Europe, Bucharest’s Old Town is the center of tourism. There are a lot of restaurants and bars, plenty of shops and a few historic sites in between.

Churches of Old Town

The Romanian Orthodox Church is an integral part of society in Romania, and the city center of the capital is no exception. Several of the oldest structures in Old Town Bucharest provide a fascinating juxtaposition to the nightclubs and other clubs that dot the area.

Beyond the glow of candles among the darkness, Romanian churches are ornate, elaborately decorated and full of iconography. The atmosphere is usually somber and reverent.

Don’t let this scare you away. Tourists are welcome. As long as you’re respectful, no one minds if you have a look around and snap a few photos.

Romanian Orthodox style Annunciation Church of Saint Anthony at Curtea Veche in Old Town Bucharest Romania on a cloudy day
Curtea Veche Church

Stavropoleos Monastery is the most notable church in Old Town. The exterior is beautifully decorated with intricate designs and portraits of saints and other venerated people of importance.

Curtea Veche Church, also known as Annunciation Church of St. Anthony, is the oldest church in Bucharest. Dating back to the 1500s, it is also one of the oldest buildings in the city.

There are a few other churches in Old Town Bucharest and nearby. Most of these are open to the public. For those who are less familiar with the Eastern Orthodox Church, these buildings stand out and provide a stark contrast to the sea of uninspiring Communist architecture.

Museums

Bucharest is an underrated city for museums. There are museums focusing on art, traditional Romanian lifestyle, history, literature and more. Most of the museums are close to the city center, but they are fairly spread out.

In Old Town, there are two notable museums: The National Bank Museum and the National Museum of Romanian History.

The National Museum of Romanian History is one of the top museums in Bucharest. It is home to historical artifacts and treasures from ancient times all the way to the Crown Jewels of Romania.

Perhaps the highlight of the National History Museum is the detailed replica of Trajan’s column (see image below). The original, in Rome, has been the victim of acid rain, and this 19th-century replica in Bucharest is now more detailed than the original.

plaster cast relief of section of Trajan's column featuring Roman soldiers at National Romanian Museum of History in Bucharest
section of Trajan’s Column (replica)

The National Bank Museum is housed in a beautiful building. A fantastic stop for those interested in numismatics, it is also a great place to learn about the modern history of Romania. Note: you may need to book your visit online, so check their website beforehand.

Food

The city center of Bucharest has restaurants all over the place. Old Town Bucharest is home to the highest concentration restaurants in the city.

There are a few local joints tucked in the madness, but most of the Old Town restaurants are tourist spots. Prices are about the highest in the city, too. It’s not expensive by London or New York standards, but it is less budget-friendly than other parts of Bucharest.

sarmale stuffed cabbage rolls bucharest Romania

Avoiding the obvious tourist establishments is fairly easy. Irish pubs, for instance, tend to stray pretty far from traditional local cuisine. That should be obvious, but sometimes it happens and you find yourself in an Irish pub unintentionally.

Among the tourist restaurants, there are a few decent options in Old Town Bucharest for a convenient meal. It won’t be as cheap as elsewhere, but you can still find great Romanian food for a fair price.

For more tips and specifics on Eating in Bucharest, look out for the Hangry Backpacker’s Bucharest Food Guide – Coming Soon!

Enjoy Some Cheap Fun

To be perfectly clear, wild partying is not a Hangry Backpacker recommendation. At all.

It is, however, a reason tens of thousands of people visit Bucharest.

Exterior of Shoteria, with a menu of options for shots of liquor in Bucharest Romania Old Town
Shoteria – yes, it’s a tiny, quick-service bar just for shots

Romania is cheap, and flights to Bucharest are generally cheap from cities in Europe and other Mediterranean countries. You’re bound to see raucous groups of tourists from Britain, Germany, Scandinavia, Israel, etc.

This is simply one of the most popular things tourists do in Bucharest. There is so much more to this city than cheap thrills, but it’s mentioned only because it’s popular. Think of this as a precaution rather than a recommendation.

Our suggestion is to absolutely take advantage of the cheap food and drink, but try to do it as far from the Stag parties – maybe just steer clear of Old Town for drinking, in general – as possible. And don’t be an idiot. Keep your wits about you.


Check Out the Hangry Backpacker’s Romania Travel & Backpacking Guide!


Visit the Parks of Bucharest

Bucharest has small parks around the city. These vary greatly in size and design, from simple green spaces to more elaborate landscapes and architecture.

Carol I Park promenade with a long stone walkway, trees and lamps on both sides, leading to large monument

Of the larger parks, these three stand out among the best things to do for visitors in Bucharest:

  • Michael I Park – Great park in Northern Bucharest with several restaurants, a beer hall, nearby museums, tennis courts and more. This is the park to visit if you also want to see the Bucharest Arcul de Triumf or the infamous and intriguing former residence of the dictator, Ceauşescu.
  • Tineretului Park – This large park in the southern part of the city is home to an amusement park and a large cemetery. It offers nice walking areas to stroll and escape the city, but it can be pretty busy on weekends. 
  • Carol Park – Carol Park is easily accessible to the city center, roughly a 20-minute walk from the Parliament and 30 minutes from Old Town. It is just north of Tineretului Park, so you can visit these together with ease. The best part of Park Carol is the blend of Communist and pre-Communist Bucharest, and there is a small flea market on weekends that has a bit of interesting junk and fun relics of Romania’s past.

Gawk at the Heaviest Building in the World

The Romanian Palace of the Parliament is as much a draw for its bizarre history as its sheer enormity. Ceauşescu wanted this building to be emblematic of Bucharest, and, for better or worse, it certainly is.

The result of Ceauşescu’s dream is a symbol of the Communist era that weighs in as the heaviest building in the world and one of the world’s largest buildings. Strangely, the design that is part-Communist and part-classical fits well in Bucharest.

View of the front of Romanian Palace of the Parliament, a huge building in a style that combines neoclassical and communist architecture

Today, the building is home to the Romanian Parliament. However, while it has become the symbol of Bucharest, it is rife with controversy. A majority of the building sits vacant and unused. The staggering costs  to operate and maintain the Romanian Parliament building (the most expensive in the world) frustrate the citizenry.

Don’t waste your time on a tour.

The Romanian Palace of the Parliament is on a lot of lists of things to do in Bucharest. The intricate interior is a surprising sight. Some of the grand rooms are impressive, but the tour is brief and restrictive. As a working government building, you cannot wander around at your leisure. On top of that, photography is limited, and there can be a lengthy wait for tickets.

I suggest sticking to the exterior and marveling at the massive structure from the surrounding grounds. It is sufficiently impressive (and large) enough to enjoy from outside.

If you do decide to take the tour, try to get tickets early to avoid the long wait. Leave your fancy camera behind – it’s not allowed. Tickets are fairly cheap, though. The basic tour costs about $10. And don’t forget your passport.

Enjoy Piata Unirii Fountain

The Piata Unirii Fountain sits in the heart of Bucharest. Steps from Old Town and with the Parliament as a backdrop, the Piata Unirii Fountain is a picturesque and famous landmark.

Piata Unirii Fountain at night with green lights illuminating the water and the Palace of the Parliament glowing in the background

The fountain itself is nice, but the highlight is the show that runs from May to October. Friday to Sunday nights, around 9 PM, a the fountain performs. Colorful lights illuminate the fountains, and a show is set to popular music. This is a very popular event in Bucharest, attracting large crowds each night.

During the daytime, the show is less dramatic, but the Piata Unirii fountains continue to spray. Photographers and fountain enthusiasts (yes, ‘fountain enthusiasts’ are a thing) will not want to miss this.

Stroll Down Calea Victoriei

Strolling down Calea Victoriei, you might forget you’re in Romania. It is lined with trendy shops, restaurants and bars, accompanied by upscale hotels and museums.

Calea Victoriei is certainly not what one expects when thinking of Romania. Be that as it may, it’s a fun area to visit. If shopping is your thing, you can do that. Otherwise, it’s the food and drink that is worth your attention.

Cool bars, such as Palatul Monteoru and Victoria Hub, are great outdoor spaces to hang out with chill-but-lively atmospheres. Venues like these stand out as places where you can enjoy yourself in a unique setting that feels like Bucharest. You can have a pint or a bite to eat with regular Bucharesters surrounded by the local history.

Many of the establishments along Calea Victoriei are polished and bright. It’s a nice marker for progress, but the authenticity of the city and culture disappears amidst the loud music and shiny facades, not to mention some of the highest prices in the city.

Calea Victoriei in Bucharest City Center closed for pedestrians

If you find the right spots, Calea Victoriei is a wonderful street to stroll. The Open Streets program is one of the most enjoyable things to do in Bucharest. The city periodically blocks off large sections of busy roads for pedestrian-use only. Calea Victoriei turns into miles-long thoroughfare with thousands of people enjoying the freedom of movement.

The Romanian Athenaeum is a beautiful structure from the outside. If you have the opportunity to go inside, don’t pass it up. The interior of the neoclassical concert hall is stunning, to say the least. Across the street from the Athenaeum is the National Museum of Art, which houses important Romanian art, as well as a respectable collection of international works from famous Old Masters, Impressionists and more.

Exterior of Romanian Athenaeum from across the street in Bucharest, a theater in the neoclassical design

Aside from these two primary museums, there are several other museums nearby. These include the National Museum of Literature, the Cantacuzino Palace and more. Today, several of the former grand residences house fancy hotels.

Adjacent to the trendy elements of a resurging and growing city, this single street boasts a tremendous amount of striking architecture, quality museums and plenty of good food. Calea Victoriei is easily one of the best things to do in Bucharest.

Wander Piata Obor (Obor Market)

Obor Market is one of the best places in Bucharest for tourists to see the local side of 21st-century life in the city.

Exterior of Obor Market in Bucharest with stalls of vendors selling home good and kitchen supplies

The site has been a center of commerce and home to a market for hundreds of years. Today, this market serves more than the immediate neighborhoods. Locals come from around Bucharest and beyond to shop for and sell a variety of goods.

Mounds of fresh strawberries under a vendor's tent at Obor Market in Bucharest Romania
the freshest, most beautiful produce is at Obor Market!

Shops in the market range from butchers and cheesemakers to impressively fresh, locally-sourced produce. And, of course, no large market is complete without rows of trinkets and handmade crafts.

I spent a couple of hours wandering around the market and did not encounter another tourist. Obor market is an excellent choice for tourists to find cheap souvenirs, experience a local side of Bucharest and sample fantastic local food and drink.

Walk through Local History

Aimless wandering of a city for its architecture might sound a little boring or nerdy to many travelers. After all, this is Bucharest – not Rome.

This city has become a travel destination to satiate the vices of tourists. However, as we’ve mentioned, there is more to Bucharest than a cheap party.

Carol I statue on horse in Bucharest in front of university building

The tumultuous history of Romania’s Capital City is visible as you stroll from street to street. While Romania is an old country, inhabited for thousands of years, the recent history has been especially volatile.

Whereas Rome can be like walking through a museum – or visiting Venice is like seeing a real-life postcard – strolling through Bucharest is akin to walking through living history.

Communist building in Bucharest with a new modern structure in the background
contrasts of Bucharest, old adjacent to new

In less than 150 years, Romania has gone from Ottoman vassal state to Independent Kingdom, Communist dictatorship and, finally, a democratic republic.

This history is visible in the cityscape of Bucharest. There are few remnants of Ottoman times in Romania, but the Kingdom of Romania left a mark that even Ceauşescu could not entirely erase. Marks of a city once called the “Paris of Eastern Europe” sit adjacent to Communist architecture, modern constructions and centuries-old Romanian Orthodox churches.

Classic Romanian style house with fancy balcony and roof

At first glance, the architecture of Bucharest appears messy and confusing. As you spend time in the streets, you can see that Romania’s capital is a unique study, a living history of a city and people with who recognize the past and embrace the future.


Bucharest isn’t one of those cities with an exhaustive list of famous things to do. There’s no local equivalent to the Louvre or the Parthenon. But that’s not why you visit Bucharest!

Beautiful Bucharest seen in exterior of Coltea Hospital in neoclassical style from the 19th century

There are few places in Romania that have a touristy feel, and most are away from the capital city. Bucharest is a place to visit for a different travel experience. While sightseeing here and there is part of the fun, you can get an honest feel for Romanian culture in Bucharest.

Whether you enjoy history, architecture, food or nightlife, there is a wide variety of things to do in Bucharest. Best of all, the city is one of the best budget travel destinations in Europe.

Filed Under: City Guides, Get Lost

Eating in Romania: Traditional, Local & Cheap

November 6, 2022 By Hangry Backpacker 5 Comments

Eating is one of the best parts about travel in Romania. The country has a revealing cuisine that sheds light on local life, history and tradition.

traditional Romanian food polenta sarmale bacon sour cream pepper

Romania’s geography – this is mentioned further in our Romania Travel Guide for backpackers and first-time visitors – is also a huge part of the local cuisine. The seasonal climate is great for growing an assortment of food. A LOT of it. To name a few, Romania is one of the world’s top producers of corn, wheat, sunflower seeds, plums and grapes.

Eating in Romania is a fun tour through the country’s culture and history, and your travel menu should include several essential basics and an extra taste beyond. This comprehensive Romania food guide will help you get a thorough sample of the country one bite at a time!

What is Romanian Food?

Romanian food is good. While that is the most important note for the Hangry Backpacker, the study of local food is fascinating and enlightening.

Understanding what you’re eating and where it comes from (literally and historically) is a great way to understand the place in which you’re traveling.

Romanian cuisine may not be complex in creation the way that French food is, for example, but the accompanying  history is far from simple.

History & Influences

Romanian food is a vivid reflection of its past. With a history of aggressive neighbors and shifting populations, the food has a variety of outside elements and traits that come together to make something unique and distinct.

The present-day borders of Romania have seen centuries of foreign invaders and occupiers. From the Russian Empire, Habsburgs, Poles, Ottomans and so on, the territories within modern-day Romania have been under control of, and influenced by, dozens of foreign powers.

While foreign occupiers left flavors and recipes behind (among other things), the various ethnic groups to call Romania home are more visible in the cuisine. Modern-day Romania is the result of three historic regions (Transylvania, Wallachia and Moldavia) unifying to make one state. 

These regions have been home to several notable ethnic groups, including sizable populations of Hungarians, Germans, Ukrainians and Poles.

Eating goulash Transylvania Romania
Goulash – common in Romania but Hungarian in origin

Each of these eras and ethnic groups made an impact on Romanian food as it is today. Some of the impact is visible, while much of it blends together to create the present-day cuisine.

For instance, the region of Transylvania is historically German and Hungarian. Food with Hungarian roots remains a common sight on menus despite most of the ethnic Hungarian population assimilating or emigrating over the past century.

Other notable influences stem from centuries of Ottoman occupation. Sarmale is one of the most well-known and popular Romanian dishes, but the origin is Turkish. Even the name comes from the Turkish word ‘sarma.’

Not every dish in Romania is foreign in origin, and you don’t have to spend hours researching the origins of every meal. That’s something I enjoy and am happy to share. But it is a fun way to learn and tour the history of the country.

Structure

The traditional Romanian diet is fairly simple and straightforward: meat; dairy; grains. This is an oversimplification, of course, but it’s the basic foundation of a traditional Romanian meal.

Eating local food in Romania typically involves a plate with meat (usually pork or cured sausage), dairy (sour cream or cheese) and some kind of starchy grain. Strangely (to me), it is often served with a fresh pepper that unpredictably ranges from mild to super spicy.

A typical Romanian breakfast is on the simple side. Common breakfasts consist of eggs, toast with jam, covrigi and perhaps some cured meats.

Traditional lunch in Romania does not vary much from breakfast. Lunch often includes something like a sandwich or polenta with cured meat or cheese.

Dinner is generally the largest meal of the day in Romania. Expect a hearty meal, and expect dinner to last a while. Especially when dining out, I noticed local Romanians sitting, eating, drinking, smoking and talking for a long time.

Meals vary depending on location in Romania. In rural areas, food is more traditional. Rural workers are also likely to eat heavier breakfasts and drink a bit more than their urban counterparts.

Holidays

As a very religious country, holidays, feasts and fasts of the Romanian Orthodox Church play a big part in what’s on the menu.

Christmas and Easter, in particular, are a time when seasonal foods make a widespread appearance. Christmas is the season for lots of pork and cozonac, a sweet bread. Around Easter, drob (a sort of lamb haggis) and pasca (a sweet, creamy and cheesy pie) are traditional foods to eat in Romania.

Most of the year falls under various fasting periods of the Romanian Orthodox Church. These are vegetarian fasts. There’s no need to worry, though! You can still satisfy your carnivorous cravings during these fasts.

Eating Vegetarian in Romania

We usually don’t highlight vegetarian or vegan eating at the Hangry Backpacker. However, when something is local, we have to mention it!

Most well-known traditional Romanian food is not vegetarian. There is a lot of food in the country that is vegan-friendly, though.

The aforementioned fasts in the Romanian Orthodox Church are not only vegetarian fasts. They are usually vegan, and menus across the country cater to the devout population.

The word you herbivores are looking for is ‘post.’ In Romania, post means fast, which equates to vegan food. Even if you aren’t practicing in the Romanian Orthodox Church, employ use of this word to comfortably find all the local rabbit food you can eat.

Must-Try Famous Romanian Dishes

Covrigi

Traditional eating in Romania begins each day with covrigi. It’s a light, tasty thing that’s easy to eat on the go.

What is covrigi? It’s basically a Romanian pretzel. It’s also not a pretzel. By that, I mean, locals don’t call it a pretzel – it’s covrigi.

covrigi Romanian pretzel

Even though it is shaped like a pretzel and baked like a pretzel, it’s technically not. Walk like a duck, talk like a duck, must be a duck, right? Well, covrigi is not from pretzel dough, so therein lies the small distinction.

Anyway, this not-a-pretzel pretzel is a simple bread that is topped with sunflower seeds or poppy seeds. Covrigi is a great choice to eat breakfast like a local, especially urban-living Romanians looking for a quick bite on the go.

Covrigi is really cheap and sold pretty much everywhere. My favorite part is eating the leftover sunflower seeds that fall off the pretzel – I mean, not-a-pretzel.

Mici

Mici is one of the most well-known things to eat in Romania. Your Romanian travel menu is not complete without sampling mici on a few occasions.

This grilled sausage is small, hand rolled and has no casing. Mici is popular as a snack or meal. It is typically served with mustard and bread.

local favorite mici Bucharest Romania

I ate a lot of mici in Romania. I’m sure inadequate mici exists – perhaps my palate is not refined to Romanian standards – but I enjoyed it every time.

Personally, I find mici to be very Balkan in nature. However, when I mentioned to a local that it was similar to chevapi (a popular grilled sausage in the Balkans), my comparison was not received well. I meant no offense, but it is similar. No matter. If you like chevapi, you will love mici.

Sarmale

This is another classic staple of traditional Romanian cuisine that is a must-try when you travel to this country. Sarmale is also an excellent example of foreign influence on Romanian cuisine.

Sarmale is, simply, cabbage rolls stuffed with meat and spices. Specifically, it is fermented cabbage leaves stuffed with a mixture of minced pork, rice, onions and seasonings. Most common seasonings are thyme, bay leaves and a touch of dill.

Traditional sarmale in Romania is cooked with bacon (pork belly) and sauerkraut in large batches in a single dish. Portions are usually 3-5 rolls, accompanied by a healthy dollop of sour cream, polenta and, once again, that possibly-spicy-but-maybe-mild green pepper.

sarmale stuffed cabbage rolls bucharest Romania

Sarmale sometimes uses grape leaves in place of cabbage leaves. For this version, look for the word vita on the menu. While I love the more common version with cabbage leaves, the version with grape leaves is outstanding.

The origins of sarmale are very Middle Eastern/Turkish. What makes it uniquely Romanian is the minced pork, pork belly and the cabbage wrappings.

Mămăligă

Mamaliga is essentially polenta. Polenta is a staple of Romanian cuisine. Your travel menu anywhere in Romania will, inevitably, include eating plenty of polenta.

From a historical standpoint, polenta in this region of Europe likely dates back to Ancient Roman times of eating other grains in slop-form. When corn was introduced to Europe, the version of polenta we know today (from corn) became a staple food. It provides a lot of sustenance and energy for poor workers in a simple, cheap dish. And Romanian agricultural lands are excellent for corn production.

Romanian polenta mamaliga

For many Westerners in the 21st Century, polenta is not the most appealing food. It looks simple, like grainy yellow slop, and isn’t bursting with flavor.

Personally, it reminds me of grits, which is extremely similar. As an American southerner and Louisianian, I would happily eat grits every day. However, grits are not as common outside of the Southern USA (especially in the Pacific Northwest, where I currently live), so I was enthusiastic about my mamaliga eating in Romania.

Most of your polenta encounters in Romania will come in the form of a simple side item. It’s not flashy, but it’s filling. Add a touch of salt and pepper and it’s good. Mix in some sour cream and throw in some meat or peppers (or hot sauce, if that is available) – now we’re talking.

Bulz

Bulz is Romanian polenta (mamaliga) that is dressed up to make a delicious full meal. This is a common dish across Romania, but it’s one of those foods that is never the same. Every restaurant and every grandmother has a unique rendition of the traditional Romanian meal.

With a base of polenta, bulz typically adds meat and a lot of cheese. An egg usually tops the dish. Eating in Romania is never complete without sour cream, so expect that, too.

bowl of bulz in Romania with polenta and cheese and meat

Bulz is a heavy meal. Even what may appear as a smaller portion can be a gut bomb. It’s not the healthiest meal, but it is good. If you are planning a big hike or a night of partying, bulz is a decent base for your endeavors.

Sausage

Pork is the most commonly eaten meat. Cured meats are also popular across the country, eaten as part of breakfast or lunch, as appetizers or snacks.

Variety of Romanian salami and sausage

I enjoyed every slice of sausage I tasted. Some of the flavors are quite unique, too, though it was more of a pointing-and-guessing game for me. Local varieties of salami are commonplace and easy to find, even in small convenience stores.

Cheese

Cheese is another very popular dairy item to eat in Romania. There are too many types of Romanian cheese to mention them all.

Variety of Romanian cheese

Honestly, I had a tough time differentiating between them. The most common Romanian cheese is a mild, white cheese. It’s decent. Not outstanding or especially memorable, but good.

Dips

Romanians eat a lot of dips, often as a spread for bread and served with olives, veggies (i.e. mild peppers, cucumbers), cheese and sausage. There are four dips I found most common in Romania:

  • Salată de vinete – Eggplant dip. Salată de vinete, a Romanian staple of pureed eggplant mixed with lemon juice and sunflower oil. I enjoy eggplant, but this was not my favorite.
  • Zacusca – Bell pepper dip. Zacusca is a popular dip that is made from pureed red peppers, eggplant and tomatoes with sunflower oil. The peppers are gogoșari peppers, which basically tastes like bell peppers to me.
  • Fasole batută – Bean dip! This is ‘Romanian hummus.’ Fasole batută is a dip of mashed white beans mixed with oil and garlic, topped with pickled veggies in a tomato-ish paste. It’s pretty good!
  • Salată de icre – Fish dip! This is a dip that is made with roe, specifically carp roe (usually spelled ‘crap’ in Romania, so that’s fun). It is made with oil and a touch of lemon. Carp isn’t eaten often in the United States and, to my surprise, this was my favorite.

Romanian charcuterie board with sausage, cheese, olives and eggplant, bean and carp roe dips

These foods are eaten as part of a charcuterie plate when dining out (seen above), but they are also enjoyed frequently at home. This is a staple of Romanian cuisine and something many locals always have in the fridge.

Ciorba de Burta

Ciorba (pronounced CHOR-buh) is the Romanian word for soup. There are a lot of delicious Romanian soups to eat, but the most famous is ciorba de burta. 

Ciorba de burta is tripe soup. You’re probably thinking, “Oh, hell no. I’m not eating stomach soup.”

I’m here to tell you that it’s delicious. I’ve eaten more than my fair share of tripe, and, honestly, it’s usually not great. I keep trying it in various places, hoping that someday I start to actually enjoy it.

Eating a bowl of Ciorba de burta, tripe soup in Sibiu Romania

Romanian tripe soup is, by far, the best tripe I’ve ever had. But ciorba de burta isn’t simply the best of something that generally underwhelms. It’s delicious.

The hearty soup is made from a base of egg yolks and sour cream. It is buttery and slightly sour. You eat it with garlic, vinegar and (more) sour cream, paired with bread and a spicy pepper.

These ingredients may still sound odd or off putting to many palates, especially American palates, but I implore you to give it a try. It is genuinely good! If you happen to overdo the Romanian wine one night, ciorba de burta will be a lifesaver the next day.

Romanian Pastrami

Forget about sandwiches. This is not a Katz’s Delicatessen sandwich with thick slices of pastrami between mustard-slathered slices of rye.

As much as I love a New York City pastrami on rye – seriously, one of my favorite foods in the world – Romanian pastrami is similar only in name. (Although, the NYC pastrami sandwich has Romanian roots, too, coming from Romanian Jewish immigrants.)

Romanian pastrami is not brisket. ‘Pastrama,’ as it is called in Romania, is more about the process of aging the meat than any specific type of meat.

In Romania, many meats that are brined and aged are considered pastrami. This can be veal, mutton, pork and even turkey or goose. In my experience in Romania, the pastrami on menus is mutton.

Eating pastrami in Romania also has nothing to do with a sandwich. Mutton pastrami is served as an entree of thick slices/chunks of meat. This frequently comes with polenta and is a hefty meal.

Traditional Romanian pastrami and bulz

Romanian pastrami is not the deli variety. For one, it’s typically mutton and not beef. It’s also a little greasy and fattier, which adds more natural flavors. Overall, it is phenomenal.

Plăcintă

Placinta is a pie-like Romanian pastry. It is round and flaky.

This is another wonderful example of Romanian history showing up through food. The origins of placinta trace back to Ancient Rome, and it is commonly eaten today in a form that likely hasn’t changed much over time.

cheese and pastrami placinta pastry in Bucharest

Placinta is traditionally filled with cheese or fruit (sometimes with sour cream, of course). Today, however, you can find placinta with any number of ingredients.

The simplest placinta is stuffed with cheese. This is a tasty snack, though generally enough of a “snack” for two people. Things change when you add other fillings. Sausage, pastrami, duck, peppers, olives, spinach – “fancier” placinta can have any number of ingredients. This is a full meal, and there are tempting dessert varieties, too. And it is so, so good.

Pizza

I know what you’re thinking: “Romanian food… pizza?”

Why would anyone go to Romania for the pizza? Well, no, you don’t go to Romania for the pizza. Not exactly.

Pizza is everywhere. Italy may have the best pizza, but being the first to create or produce something doesn’t necessarily mean you are the best. It certainly doesn’t mean you are the only ones capable of making it well.

I’m not belittling Italian pizza. There’s no doubt that there are few culinary experiences that can compare to a real, authentic Neapolitan pizza straight from a brick oven.

Pizza is a global food, though. Yes, some places do it better than others, but it’s everywhere. Good pizza is everywhere. I love pizza, and I have an open mind to ALL pizza!

Pizza in Romania is pretty good. As it should be! With a great climate for farming and plenty of fresh, local ingredients, it’s only natural that it’s easy to find a decent pie in the country.

Eating pizza in Bucharest Romania

Believe me, it is easy to find pizza in Romania. It’s not all great, though some of it does indeed stand out as exceptional.

I include pizza as part of this Romanian food guide and travel menu because of the amount of restaurants I saw full of locals eating pizza.

Sometimes we need an easy, familiar occasion when traveling. Pizza is the perfect choice for such an occasion!

It’s silly to exhaust yourself searching for hidden local gems for every single meal. There are a lot of pizza restaurants in Romania serving a lot of locals, so that is eating local in a way.

Romanian Desserts:

While I typically spend less time writing about desserts and sweets, I do possess a serious sweet tooth. Unfortunately, traveling with a serious tree nut allergy makes eating sweets at random tricky in certain parts of the world.

Are you Allergic to Nuts or Peanuts?

For me, Romanian food is fairly safe to navigate (especially compared to the Middle East and Central Asia), but desserts and sweet treats do have slightly more tree nuts than other courses.

This makes me hesitant to try things when I cannot be certain of the ingredients. That being said, eating dessert in Romania has quite a few notable creations for you to try. These are just a few of the sweet treats you should try:

  • Papanasi – Romanian “doughnuts,” these are more of a dense pastry filled with a mild cheese and topped with berries or jam and a semi-sweet sour cream sauce. Good but heavy.
  • Galuste cu prune – Don’t let the name deter you. These are plums, not prunes! Plum potato dumplings, to be precise! Plum and potato sounds weird, but these delicious potato dumplings are filled with plums that turn into a molten, jam-like goo. They are coated in breadcrumbs and tossed in cinnamon – a delightful surprise when eating in Romania!

Galuste cu prune Romanian plum dumplings

  • Gogoși – Fluffy, moderately dense pastries typically filled with jam or cheese and sugar on top.
  • Scovergi – A round pastry often with cheese or jam inside, sometimes plain and doused with sugar.
  • Colțunași – Romanian sweet dumplings with plums or cherries, these appear similar to pierogies.

Eating Cheap in Romania

Eating in Romania is generally cheap in comparison to most of Europe and North America. But what if you are sticking to a budget, can you eat even cheaper in Romania?

Yes, absolutely! And it’s not that difficult.

The simple rules of cheap eating and travel also apply to Romania. Here are a few tips to find cheaper food anywhere:

  • Don’t eat near tourist areas or landmarks.
  • If the menus are not in the local language (i.e. an English menu in Thailand), it’s likely targeting tourists.
  • Avoid famous, international restaurant brands. Outside of the USA, McDonald’s is often more expensive than local fare.
  • Find out where locals eat. The average local citizen isn’t paying tourist prices for a typical meal out.
  • Grocery stores and supermarkets are always the more economical option.
  • Tacos, burgers, sushi and pasta all on one menu? Stay away!

What about Romania? How can you eat even cheaper there?

The same tips above also apply to Romania, but there are a few specific things you should look for when seeking cheap food in the country.

Find an ‘Autoservire’

I cannot say for certain that the Autoservire is the Romanian version of fast food, but these places are quick and cheap. However, this isn’t where to go for a greasy sack of chicken fingers and fries.

eating plate of cheap food Romania autoservire
doesn’t look like much, but it’s very cheap!

I visited three Autoservires in Romania. They were each incredibly cheap for a full plate of food. I paid less than $5 on each occasion, and the food is local. You won’t see many tourists here.

Autoservire food isn’t flashy. It’s not going to make a great shot for the ‘Gram. It’s cheap and local, though. And pretty good, too. These were the places I saw lines of local Romanians waiting to get food.

eating cheap local food Romania autoservire
a line of locals out the door = a good sign

What about Street Food?

Street food doesn’t exist in Romania the same way as you will see in many countries. The closest thing to street eats will be the window stands where you can grab a quick ice cream, covrigi or other baked goods.

These window stands of food are also much less prevalent in smaller towns. That being said, you can fill up on a variety of Romanian pastries (sweet and savory) without spending much. In theory, you can spend about $5 and have food for the day. It’s not a balanced diet, but it is cheap food.

Luca street bakery Bucharest Romania
the extent of “street food” in Romania

Leave the Tourist Bubble

I know this is mentioned in the general cheap eating tips above, but it is especially true in Romania.

Prices in tourist areas are much higher than elsewhere. What sets Romania apart from other European countries is that the prices in tourist areas really aren’t that bad. You can often find a beer or glass of wine in a main square for $3. Believe me, that is not happening in the center of Madrid, Munich or London.

In Romania, though, that $3 beer can drop to less than $2 if you leave the tourist bubble. You might only have to walk a few minutes. Suddenly, the tourists disappear and your nice, large dinner went from $15 to less than ten bucks.

Eating in Romania is cheap in most places. A teensy bit of effort can lead you to ever cheaper food!

Eating as a Tourist in Romania

Eating as a tourist in Romania does not come without challenges. If part of your travel plans include eating and enjoying local food in local establishments, this can require a little extra effort.

Romania is not unique in this sentiment. As tourists, it is often a challenge to escape the areas in which we find ourselves. The very sites that attract us to an area have everything we need: attractions, accommodation, shops, restaurants, etc.

To successfully navigate the tourist bubbles in Romania and eat locally, plan on doing some walking. That’s the simplest method to find local eats. Leave the historic, touristic area.

traditional Romanian fast food
typical Romanian fast food

The most popular tourist destinations in Romania are also very popular for domestic tourism. A lot of these places, especially during pandemic times, are extremely reliant on domestic tourism.

How does domestic tourism affect what you eat as a foreign tourist?

Restaurants in high traffic areas are more likely to cater to what the bulk of their customers want. From my time in Romania, I can confirm that the local population is not looking for their local cuisine.

Romanians love Italian food. Well, we all love Italian food, right? Of course.

The tourist areas in Romania are flooded with Italian restaurants, though. Even when a restaurant isn’t specifically an “Italian Restaurant,” the menus frequently suggest otherwise.

Without a doubt, I saw more Italian food in Romania than anything else. By far. Clearly, domestic tourists in the country want to eat something different. Don’t take this as criticism – it makes perfect sense.

What this means for foreign tourists in Romania is that traditional, local food isn’t always abundant in popular areas. To be fair, many restaurants have a small section of local specialties. So, if you find yourself in an Italian restaurant against your will, look for the menu section that says something along the lines of ‘traditional’ or ‘Romanian.’

If you have the time, walk away from the tourist areas and find a busy restaurant or even a busy bar. If locals are there, you’ll be in good hands.

At the very least, stick to traditional restaurants in tourist areas. The prices are higher than they should be, but at least you can get an idea of local eating in Romania.

When the time comes and you’re too hangry to continue searching, take solace in the fact that you can eat good food in Romania for a good price. Find that ‘traditional’ section of the menu.

Prices/Cost Examples

If you’ve read this far, you will know that Romania is a fairly cheap place to eat. Similar to most places in the world, cities and tourist areas are more expensive. Tourist areas in cities are even more expensive. The largest city – in this case, Bucharest – is generally home to the most expensive eats.

Cheaper food in cities is found away from tourist attractions, and cheap food is abundant in smaller towns and rural areas.

However, what is expensive in Romania is going to be cheap for a lot foreign visitors. This is a win for you, and this is a win for local restaurants. You won’t break the bank dining out every night.

Here are some prices I paid for food and drinks in Romania (in 2022, in approx. USD):

  • Domestic Beer: $2
  • Craft Beer: $4-6 
  • Doner: $4.50 (my go-to cheap, quick eat abroad)
  • Traditional Meal w/beer: $8-12 (in tourist center)
  • Traditional Meal w/beer: $4-5 (outside tourist area)
  • Whole Pizza: $5-10 (enough for two people)
  • Covrigi: $0.50
  • Romanian Fast Food: $4.50 (a ton of food)
  • Mici (tourist restaurant): $6-7
  • Mici (local spot): $3.50

Drinking in Romania

Romania has a long history of drinking, and the foreign influences are apparent in the booze, too. Local beer is basic (but improving rapidly), spirits are strong and representative of traditional culture and it is an underrated Old World wine producer.

Wherever you are in Romania, you will see that drinking is a big part of the cuisine.

Wine

Romania has a long history of winemaking, one of the oldest in the world. It is not on the same level of notoriety and production as France, Spain, Italy or other famous wine-producing countries, but the same climate and geography that yields a bountiful agricultural output is great for wine, too.

Romanian red wine in Brasov City Center

Romania’s wine production is growing. Current production places it 4th or 5th in Europe and 10th or 12th in the world (varying by source). That’s a lot of wine!

While Romanian wine receives far less attention than wine from places like Portugal, New Zealand or even Georgia (the country), the quality matches their production. The country is also an appealing choice for a more affordable, wine-focused travel destination.

My knowledge of beer is far greater than that of wine, but I can confidently report that Romanian wine is good. It is inexpensive, and it deserves more attention than it receives. When you’re in Romania, sample the local product for a pleasant surprise.

Romanian Liquor

Did you know that Romania is one of the top two producers of plums in the entire world? No, of course not. There’s no need to have this information in your brain.

The good news is that this is true. Romania’s climate is great for growing plums! An overwhelming majority of these plums are not eaten, though.

Where do they go? Liquor!

Romania’s two most popular spirits are tuica and palinca. These are different types of brandy. Tuica is strictly a plum brandy, while palinca is often plum-based but can be derived from other fruit.

tuica liquor shot Sighisoara Romania

Tuica is the de facto national spirit of Romania. Although palinca is also widespread, its roots are Hungarian and, within Romania, Transylvanian.

I enjoy brandy, and I have tasted varieties of brandy from several countries in Europe. However, my palate is not especially developed with respect to brandy, and most of these taste quite similar to me.

That’s not to say I dislike any of them. In fact, some are pretty good. Whether it is rakija, chacha, raki or tuica, they are all fairly similar.

Before anyone becomes upset, I am not saying these are exactly the same.

I will say that Romanian brandy is strong. Brandy consumption is more prevalent in rural areas where home distillation is common. This is a spirit to sip, so don’t try to keep up with locals.

Make sure to try some tuica and palinca in Romania! It’s good. Sip it responsibly with a snack or before your meal.

Beer

Domestic beer in Romania is fine. Like most Big Beer around the world, there isn’t a lot of variety between major brands. It’s not exceptional by any stretch, but it’s a hell of a lot better than Big Beer in the United States.

Basic beer in Romania pairs well with a hearty meal of traditional food. Best of all, beer prices are reasonable.

A glass of Ursus, the most popular beer of Romania

Craft beer in Romania is growing in popularity. Breweries are popping up across the country, and they are producing some great beer. Craft beers are more expensive but remain more affordable than craft brews elsewhere.

The Hangry Backpacker’s Guide to Beer in Romania is coming soon!

Hangry Backpacker Tips

  • Tipping is weird. A lot of information out there says to round up or tip 10% if service is great. Well, service is extremely hit-or-miss in Romanian cities. Rounding up 5 or 10 Lei is generally acceptable. Maybe tip up to 10% if you’re with a large group or eating somewhere nicer.
  • Request your bill at least 10 minutes before you plan to leave a restaurant. Quality of service will vary, of course, but ask for your check early unless you want to sit for ages trying to catch a server’s attention.
  • One more thing: don’t pronounce the ‘i’ or other vowels on the end of words, unless you want a funny look from locals. For example, covrigi is pronounced co-VREEJ, and mici is pronounced MEECH.

Romanian food offers insight into the country’s history and culture. Better than that, and most importantly for hungry travelers, the food is good.

Papanasi Romanian donuts

Travel destinations in Europe with affordable food are becoming fewer and farther between. What sets Romania apart from others is that you can sample a traditional culture – one that is very much alive in the 21st Century – and you can experience that culture through food.

Romanian food is not flashy or pretentious. It is practical, representative of the people. And again, it’s good.

Filed Under: Eat

Backpacking Romania: When, Where, Why, Travel Budget

July 23, 2022 By Hangry Backpacker 2 Comments

Backpacking is a great way to travel and explore Romania for a first-time visitor. In Southeastern Europe, Romania has a fascinating history and a unique culture that goes far beyond fictional 19th-century tales of horror.

travel backpacking in Romania

The Real Romania is a beautiful country where Eastern Europe meets Southern, with one hand holding onto tradition and the other reaching toward the future.

Backpacking in Romania is an excellent way to experience this country. The landscapes, the contrasts of old and new, excellent food, affordability and even the challenges of travel are merely an introduction to why Romania is an excellent backpacking destination.

Why Romania?

From Ancient Greece and Rome to the Ottoman Empire, an independent kingdom to the shroud of Communism and, ultimately, democratic revolution – and that’s the brief version – the history of modern-day Romania is long and complex.

But what specifically makes Romania such a great place to travel? Why is it an ideal destination for backpackers?

History & Geography

Each of the aforementioned historical eras left an impression on Romania, and the country is a fascinating study of interweaving cultures and civilizations.

Romania is home to beautiful castles, ancient fortresses, stunning churches and well-preserved medieval cities. The study of local history is further evident in more recent history that often sits adjacent to the old.

Romanian architecture orthodox church communist blocks

Recent history in Romania is not as pretty. Seriously, Communist architecture is generally on the unsightly side. I find it totally fascinating, but it does tend to fall into the eyesore category.

The days of Communism left a stain, yes, but this is an important part of understanding the country and the people today.

The geography is another great reason to go backpacking in Romania. It varies nicely from plains to mountains to seaside. Backpackers traveling in Romania can ski in the Winter, sit on a Black Sea beach in the Summer and hike the Danube River Delta or Carpathian Mountains most of the year.

That’s without even considering the history and picturesque settings of many Romanian cities, towns and villages.

Romanian Food

Romanian food is a reflection of its history. It is a blend of cuisine from the Balkans, Turks, Slavs and Southern Europe. This comes together to make a cuisine that is uniquely Romanian.

plate of mici, a Romanian food of sausages with mustard

Most importantly, of course, my fellow hungry travelers can rest easy knowing that the food is good. It’s cheap (very cheap by Western European standards), fresh and locally-sourced. More info on the food in the Hangry Backpackers Guide to Eating in Romania!

Romania is Cheap to Travel

In comparison to Europe and the United States, Romania is definitely a budget travel destination.

Food is fairly cheap. Hotels are not expensive. Paid attractions are usually well worth the low price of admission. Transportation is extremely affordable. We dig further into the travel costs of backpacking and travel in Romania below.

Overall, your money goes further in Romania. There are few ways that can “break the bank” for most Western tourists.

Fewer Tourists

Fewer tourists choose to visit Romania than other places in Europe.

Prior to the 2020 travel shutdown, Romania was already one of the lesser-visited places in Europe. With travel returning, foreign tourist arrivals remain lower than other countries on the continent.

You won’t have to deal with crowds of other tourists who clog the sites and streets of more conventional travel destinations in Europe.

Peles Castle Romania top travel attraction
no crowds at Peles Castle, a top attraction in Romania

Why not travel somewhere outside the norm? Feel like you’re in a different country. Experience another country rather than go on a holiday with everyone else. Romania is a fascinating place, and you won’t have to compete with hordes of tourists.

How Long Should You Travel in Romania?

How much time you spend in Romania depends on your interests. This doesn’t vary much from any travel destination in the world.

Do you want to explore the “whole” country? A sample? Perhaps a brief, busy trip?

If you want to lounge at the beach all day, that’s totally fine. Maybe Greece or Croatia is the place to go for you. There are beaches in Romania that are surely a blast, but the Black Sea is not the Greek Isles or Dalmatian Coast.

Romania can be a destination for trips of varying length. Most of the other foreign travelers with whom I spoke in Romania were spending at least a couple of weeks in the country. Transportation is slow – more on transportation below in our in-depth Romania transportation guide – so you cannot see large swaths of the country in a few days.

Sibiu Train Station cheap backpacking transportation in Romania

If you want to experience local culture, feel like you’re getting off the typical tourist trail and go somewhere different, Romania is a good option. Here are three suggestions for length of stay for traveling conventionally or backpacking in Romania:

One Week or Less

Honestly, I don’t recommend traveling to Romania for a week or less on a first-time visit. Excluding microstates, a single week isn’t enough time to explore any country in the world. Romania, particularly Bucharest, attracts a fair amount of short-term visitors to party and gamble. Flights are short and extremely cheap from Europe and the Middle East

Brasov Romania mural on the side of a building

However, for a small sample of the country, you can visit Bucharest and make a couple of stops in Transylvania in a week or less. This is enough time to see the city, sample a few local dishes, visit a castle or two and catch a glimpse of the scenery.

Two Weeks

In two weeks, you can see much more of Romania. This is enough time to thoroughly explore Bucharest, see more of Transylvania and add another area to your travels. For instance, you can add a hike, visit the Black Sea beaches or detour to Romanian Banat (the west).

The two-week time frame puts travelers in a gray area. As mentioned, transportation in Romania can be slow. To thoroughly see your destinations, you cannot do much more than mentioned in the previous paragraph.

If you wish to blaze through, quickly see as much as possible and move on to the next place, you can tick off a lot more boxes. I caution against going too fast, though. Traveling too fast is tiring and eventually causes travel burnout. Slower travel is more rewarding, and you will be able to see more than the crowded popular tourist sites.

A Month or More

If time permits, you can have a great experience backpacking in Romania for a month or more. For a first-time visitor, you can see a lot of the country and even dig deeper in areas you particularly enjoy.

Several of Romania’s most striking attractions are not easy to reach for the average traveler. For instance, the Churches of Moldavia in the far northern part of the country (see the stunning Sucevița Monastery below, photo from Rachel Heller at Rachel’s Ruminations), and small villages of the Carpathian Mountains take longer to reach via train, bus or automobile, IF there is even any public transit option to reach your desired destination.

Sucevita Monastery Romania Churches of Moldavia on sunny day
the striking Sucevița Monastery, photo by Rachel Heller

With limitations of transportation and tourist infrastructure, you need time to visit more remote or less-connected places without running yourself ragged.

The advantage of taking the extra time is what you encounter along the way. In Romania, life can be starkly different outside of tourist bubbles. It’s also significantly cheaper.

By traveling slower and longer, you can see the traditional side of Romania, which is still remarkably visible in the 21st century. And your trip won’t necessarily be more expensive as you spend time in cheaper places.

Traveling longer or backpacking in Romania leads to experiencing a more local side of culture. Once you leave the popular travel trail, it feels like you have the place to yourself.

The Best Time of Year to Visit Romania

The climate in Romania is exceptionally seasonal. Winter is cold, and the Carpathian Mountains are a nice place for snow sports. Summers are warm and particularly hot and humid in Bucharest. Spring ranges from cold to hot, and Autumn is the opposite.

All of Romania can and typically does receive snowfall at some point during Winter. Even along the Black Sea, snowfall is a normal occurrence.

Summer is slightly cooler in the mountains. However, it gets hot across the country, and Bucharest temperatures hit triple digits Farenheit (above 37C). There is also slightly more rain throughout the country during Summer months.

Summer is the busier tourist season with peak time being July/August. Much of this traffic is domestic tourism and is especially notable along the Black Sea and in the Mountains.

Due to the milder-but-not-cold weather, the best time to travel in Romania is Spring or Autumn. Specifically mid-to-late Spring and early-to-mid Autumn.

Springtime flowers in Romania

Springtime brings flowers like I’ve seen in few other places in the world, and Autumn sees the country shift to spectacular shades of Fall. Snow is not an obstacle, and you can typically get by with a light jacket for cool evenings. Fewer foreign and domestic tourists is another good reason to visit during these times.

**Another note for backpacking in Romania is the beginning of Summer marks an interesting scene in hostels. Something I have never seen anywhere else, several hostels in Romania were full of children.

These ranged from elementary school-aged kids to high school kids. I’m not exactly sure if these were school trips or Summer camps, but it was less than ideal for a thirty-something backpacker to be in a hostel that was also hosting 50 teenagers. Some hostels were even completely booked due to these groups.

Backpacking Romania Travel Budget

The affordable nature of backpacking and travel in Romania has already been mentioned a few times. Your travel budget will take you further in this country.

To be honest, Romania isn’t as cheap as I anticipated. That’s not to say it’s expensive. It’s not. Essentially, I was expecting to find a place with dollar beers on every corner. It is actually closer to $2 for half-liter of domestic brew.

So what does “cheap” mean in Romania? What kind of budget do you need?

Cost Comparisons of Travel in Romania

In comparison to Northern Europe, Romania is dirt cheap. Next to Iberian countries, food is a little cheaper, but accommodation and transportation is significantly cheaper. Compared to most of the USA, it’s an affordable destination.

Romania is in the European Union but does not use the EURO. The local currency is the Romanian Leu (RON), plural Lei, which breaks down into 100 Bani.

Romanian currency money Lei and bani

As of late-July 2022: 

  • $1 USD is worth 4.84 RON
  • 1 EURO is about 4.94 RON

This conversion has been closer to 4 RON and 4.50 RON, respectively, over the last few years. What this means for American and EU travelers is that the current exchange rates make Romania an even more affordable destination than in recent years.

Compared to most of Europe, Romania is a cheap place to travel. Average incomes are among the lowest in the European Union, and cost of living is in line with income. You can easily find a reasonably nice meal for less than $10 USD (50 RON) in most tourist areas.

traditional Romanian food polenta sarmale bacon sour cream pepper
traditional Romanian food, about $8 in tourist area

That’s cheap! Consider that costs are always inflated in high-traffic tourist areas and City Centers. To find a decent meal for that price in a popular location is indicative of overall affordability in a destination.

With fewer tourists from wealthy countries, many Romanian businesses also depend on local customers. This keeps prices lower in tourist areas than those in a typical European tourist area catering to wealthy foreigners.

Daily Budget

You can travel in Romania with ease for $50/day. With this budget, you can stay in a hostel or a decent hotel, eat out for all meals, cover transportation and enter paid attractions. You won’t really have to pay much attention to spending habits.

Backpacking in Romania can be even cheaper. If you eat outside of tourist areas, avoid nightclubs, limit paid attractions and stay in hostels, you can easily trim that budget by $10-20/day.

Bucharest is generally the most expensive city in Romania. Other tourist cities, such as Brasov, are more expensive than smaller towns and rural areas, but it is easy to save money outside of the tourist center.

Examples of Prices in Romania

Here are a few examples of prices I paid in Romania (2022, in USD):

  • Hostel in Bucharest: $10-14/night
  • Rush Hour Uber (over an hour) from OTP Airport to Bucharest Center: $15 
  • Bus, 5-hour Trip: $17 (84 RON)**
  • Organ Concert in Historic Church (Brasov): $4 (20 RON)
  • Large Iced Latte: $2-3 (10-15 RON)
  • Meal, Outside Tourist Center: $4-5 (18-25 RON)

**buses are much more expensive than trains

These exchange rates are approximations. Inflation has hit Eastern Europe harder than Western Europe or the USA. The Romanian Leu has been weakening in 2021-22.

The Hangry Backpacker’s Guide to Bucharest on a Budget is coming soon!


Thinking About Trying Out a Hostel?

Check out the Hangry Backpacker’s Hostel Series!


Is it Safe to Travel in Romania?

There are a lot of stereotypes about travel safety in Romania. Most of them are untrue. To be fair, I am a male sizing in about 6’4” and 240 pounds, but I never once felt unsafe. Not one single time. Even walking at night, personally, I did not feel unsafe.

Brasov Romania street at night

I try to be an observant traveler. When I’m walking around with thousands of dollars worth of electronics, it’s easy to be a little paranoid. I maintain a tight grip and a suspicious eye in these moments.

It might be fair to call that overreacting, especially as I never felt unsafe in Romania. However, that’s the key to safe travel. It’s okay to be comfortable. It’s more important to remain observant, mind your belongings and not be an idiot.

Getting Around

Is it difficult to travel in Romania? Do they speak English? These are common concerns for travelers heading to any country for the first time.

Fortunately, navigating around Romania is easy for most visitors. Although it isn’t the most modern country, the infrastructure is good enough. Getting directions, ordering food, checking into hotels – it’s just like anywhere else.

Backpacking in Romania, if you travel away from typical tourist destinations, may incur a few more challenges. These challenges, though, are generally minimal and not worth much consideration when deciding whether or not to visit the country.

Transportation in Romania

Transportation in Romania is good. It’s not fast. It’s not always efficient. But it is reliable.

Large cities are well-connected with trains. There may be long journeys with multiple transfer stations on longer routes. Trains are also the cheapest way to get around, but they do not serve many smaller towns or villages.

Buses tend to be faster and have slightly better connections to more locations. Travel by bus is also much more expensive in Romania.

The main challenge of transportation is for backpacking in Romania and venturing beyond the more popular tourist locations. Smaller towns and rural areas being less connected leaves travelers scrambling for rideshare services or local vans/buses that are less reliable.

Renting a car is an excellent option to get around the countryside independently. However, drivers in Romania are totally nuts. Exercise caution if you choose to rent a car.

Language Barriers

Aside from rural or more remote areas, you can count on English being spoken. In Bucharest, it feels like the whole city speaks English. Young people, especially, speak English well.

There are minorities of German, Hungarian and Ukrainian speakers in parts of Romania. The primary language in the 21st Century is overwhelmingly Romanian, followed by English, but it is interesting to see occasional signs in other languages that provide insight into local history.

Sign in Transylvania in German Hungarian and Romanian languages
a sign in Transylvania – in German, Hungarian & Romanian

In major tourist cities, travelers really don’t need to worry about a language barrier. Aside from a few basic phrases to say “thank you” or “hello,” there’s no need to start studying the Romanian language.


Romania has a lot to offer travelers. On the surface, it may not have the flashy appeal of sunny Mediterranean destinations or impressively-preserved history of the UK. The value in traveling to Romania is what the country offers beyond the superficial. It is one of the best places in Europe to visit and easily experience the country beyond a tourist bubble.

Sinai Monastery in sunshine in front of Carpathian Mountains in Romania

Backpacking in Romania is fun, too. The challenges backpackers face are not so fierce that frustrations overtake the fun.

Romania is a safe, budget-friendly travel destination with attractions ranging from food and drink to nature and history. This is an ideal place to see a part of Europe that is in the midst of spectacular changes and maintains a hold on its authentic, traditional roots.

Filed Under: Get Lost

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