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The Hangry Backpacker

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Hangry Backpacker

The Ferry From Tangier to Tarifa

January 31, 2020 By Hangry Backpacker 8 Comments

Taking the ferry from Tangier to Tarifa is exciting for a lot of travelers on their first trip to the region. Moroccan transportation is inconsistent in quality and timeliness, and figuring out the ferry can be stressful. However, knowing what to expect and how to prepare beforehand will make the ferry from Morocco to Spain an easy footnote in your journey.

Tangier city Morocco coast rooftop view

The Tangier-Tarifa Ferry is an easy and popular way to get from Morocco to Spain (and vice-versa). For first-timers, the Tangier ferry brings with it plenty of uncertainties. To efficiently take the ferry from Morocco to Spain, consider the following tips so that your travels don’t miss a beat. [Read more…] about The Ferry From Tangier to Tarifa

Filed Under: Lagniappe

Tapas in Granada

January 26, 2020 By Hangry Backpacker 4 Comments

Eating tapas in Granada is one of the best parts about visiting this city in southern Spain. Granada welcomes millions of visitors each year, with most looking to visit the famous Alhambra complex. Beneath several noteworthy layers of history in Granada, food in the city is a blend of it all and an enticing layer to explore.

Tapas in Granada Spain

Tapas in Spain are a culinary institution, a tasty part of life. Tapas in Granada are unique. The culture of tapas in Granada provides an excellent opportunity for travelers to catch a glimpse of local life and get a true taste of Andalusia. [Read more…] about Tapas in Granada

Filed Under: Eat

Visiting the Alhambra in Granada

January 22, 2020 By Hangry Backpacker Leave a Comment

Alhambra sits atop a hill in Granada, Spain. The palaces, fortress and gardens date back to the 1300s when the region was a dominion of the Moors. Alhambra is more than a palace and tourist attraction in Granada. It is a source of Spanish pride and of immense historical significance. Alhambra is also one of the best preserved sites of Moorish (North African Islamic) architecture in Spain.

Alhambra Mirador San Nicolas Granada

The Alhambra fortress and palace complex in Granada is one of the most popular tourist attractions in Spain. However, it’s not a simple matter of showing up for a quick tour. Before visiting Alhambra, read the tips below to get the most out of your experience. [Read more…] about Visiting the Alhambra in Granada

Filed Under: Get Lost

Why I Stay in Hostels

January 20, 2020 By Hangry Backpacker Leave a Comment

This is Why I Stay in Hostels

The reason why I stay in hostels is constantly reaffirmed. On a recent trip to Morocco, Spain and Portugal, it was moving day – that is, a travel day from one place to the next. These are some of my favorite days. I am usually found with my neck craned, staring out the window of whatever method of transport, trying to take in as much as possible of the passing world. 

bus window view Extramaduro Spain
window seat view

This particular day was an exceptionally tedious day of travel. Starting in Morocco, my initial estimates were that I would be traveling for 8-10 hours before reaching my next destination, a city in southern Spain. [Read more…] about Why I Stay in Hostels

Filed Under: Hostels, Lagniappe

Chefchaouen, Morocco: Blue City Tourist Trap

January 7, 2020 By Hangry Backpacker

Chefchaouen – the Blue City of Morocco. Tens of thousands of tourists make the tedious trip to Chefchaouen each year, hoping to see those beautiful blue scenes that have become so popular on social media.

Chefchaouen Morocco blue city

When most prospective travelers and wanderlusters imagine Morocco, it likely comes with ideas of sand dunes, camels and labyrinthine cities of mud-brick buildings. In some sense, this is accurate. And seeing images of a picturesque and clean blue city, cutely nestled in the mountains, piques a lot of interest.

But is it real? Is that pretty city actually in Morocco? Well, sort of…

The Blue City Tourist Trap

It’s true that Chefchaouen is a real city in Morocco with a lot of blue buildings. It’s also true that Chefchaouen is a tourist trap.

Chefchaouen is pretty. In photos. That’s it.

In person, the blue city of Chefchaouen doesn’t even look authentic. I mean, it’s not authentic Morocco. It looks completely phony and cheaply painted in person. It’s hard to understand how someone can visit Chefchaouen, walk through the tourist trap and still believe that this city is authentically blue.

The Blue City of Morocco is Obviously Fake

As I mentioned above, the blue is clearly not real. There’s no doubt Chefchaouen is photogenic, but the blue is merely an attraction for tourists.

blue mountain city Chefchaouen Morocco

Some people say the blue has to do with Jewish immigrants, heat or mosquitoes. The fact is there are very few, if any, Jewish people in Chefchaouen today. As for the weather, Chefchaouen only has a couple of Summer months with warm temperatures. And there are still tons of mosquitoes, so the paint job isn’t working in that respect, either. If these claims were true, why aren’t any nearby towns also blue?

The Chefchaouen of Instagram

Chefchaouen has been a popular place for tourists for years. The blueness has been an attraction for a while, and many people also travel here to see the massive marijuana fields in the mountains outside the city.

With social media, dreamy photos of the magical blue city of Chefchaouen began popping up online. With the rise of Instagram, so came the “models” who pose like idiots, take a million photos of themselves gazing into nothing, missing the world around them. 

tourist trap alley corner of fake blue painted buildings and props in Chefchaouen Morocco
Fake, Instagram-ready corner of Chefchaouen

Chefchaouen has fallen victim to this world. There are paid Instagram tours in Chefchaouen. For an absurd sum, a local will take you around the city to all the best blue nooks and crannies. Attention-starved travelers will get the photos of their insta-dreams. The tours even provide props – yes, exotic-looking Moroccan props – for the photoshoot. If this isn’t a warning about Chefchaouen (or ANY place with such a tour), I don’t know what else to say.

Cities Near Chefchaouen

What about other towns and villages near Chefchaouen? Are they popular and photogenic, too?

No, they’re not. There are no other blue cities, towns or villages near Chefchaouen. Nearby settlements are normal and traditional Moroccan places. Nearby cities may not be as glamorous as Chefchaouen, but they are more likely to provide insight into authentic Morocco.

I Didn’t Set Out to Hate Chefchaouen

I didn’t travel to Chefchaouen with the intention to leave disappointed and feeling cheated. In fact, my excitement prior to traveling to Chefchaouen was higher than most other places in Morocco. Visiting the blue mountain city in Morocco was not the practical choice – I went far out of my way to see this place. 

Chefchaouen kasbah old city tourist trap

Getting to Chefchaouen, Morocco

I came to the blue city from Essaouira. That was a long, long journey – nearly 24 hours via buses, train, taxi and a couple miles on foot. I don’t recommend this route.

The easiest ways to get to Chefchaouen are from Tangier or Fez. However, the bus from these cities to the blue city is a long one. Personally, I thoroughly enjoyed the scenery along the way. For those with anxiety or a weak stomach on mountain roads, think twice before making this trip.

The bus ride to Chefchaouen was not comfortable. Aside from the 30-minute stop in the middle, a curious event where police stopped the bus then collected and scrutinized identification from every passenger (except myself and the only two other tourists), the trip was interesting. Ultimately, unfortunately, the destination proved that this bus ride was a waste of time.

The Moment I Realized it was All Fake

As I wandered around Chefchaouen, I thought something was off. Nevertheless, I had an amused feeling inside. The city was nice. My first impressions were that it was indeed pretty, but it wasn’t quite what I expected. 

Then, as I was walking around with a friend, he looked at me and said, “I might as well go to Disneyland!”

As he said this, the tourist trap of Chefchaouen came into focus. He was right. I knew it was a facade, but I was subconsciously not admitting that I fell for it, especially since I was the one who convinced two other travelers to make the tedious journey with me. It was clear that only the lower levels of the buildings were painted. Looking up, it could be any other city in Morocco. The rest of the buildings are normal tan, white or sandy colors. Then I began to notice more fraudulent details. There were even doors that were horribly spray painted to fit the theme of the exotic blue city of Morocco. 

fake blue paint Chefchaouen Morocco tourist trap
Fake door – full tourist trap of Chefchaouen on display

I stayed in Chefchaouen for another day. My intended stay of a few days was cut short. After realizing that the blue city of Chefchaouen was a big tourist trap, I just couldn’t see anything else. 

Chefchaouen is Beautiful, Sort of…

Chefchaouen is a nice (albeit fake) town. Unlike much of Morocco and most of the surrounding smaller towns that I saw, Chefchaouen is pretty clean. The surrounding Rif Mountains are absolutely beautiful. If there is a valid reason to visit this part of Morocco, it would be to see the beautiful landscapes. That’s where it ends.

Rif Mountains Morocco

The problem with Chefchaouen is that it is a tourist trap. It’s fake. It’s supposedly this strange little blue city in the mountains of Morocco. Oh, and officially, nobody knows why it’s blue – wow, what a mystery! (note sarcasm, please).

There’s no mystery here. I literally saw buckets of blue paint outside a freshly-painted blue house. To add to my disappointment, I asked a waiter in the main square (by the kasbah) why everything was blue. He didn’t sugarcoat it. He said, “It is pretty… for touristic business.”

If someone says, “Hey, there’s this city in Morocco where they encourage the residents to paint everything blue to attract tourists,” would you go? Probably not.

Food & Drink in Chefchaouen

Food is more-or-less the same in Morocco’s blue mountain city than the rest of the country. It’s pretty good. There are several options in the main square of the old town for a decent meal. For something far cheaper, find a restaurant away from the blue part of town.

Goat cheese is apparently a thing in Chefchaouen, as well. It is said to be a local goat cheese unique to the area. I managed to find some Moroccan goat cheese here, and it was decent enough. 

goat cheese olives and glass of sweet mint tea for Moroccan breakfast

Is the food in Chefchaouen good? Yes. Is the food in Chefchaouen good enough to warrant a trip in its own right? No.

Finding alcohol in Chefchaouen is an experience. The only place to find booze is a spot called OumRabie. This little bar/restaurant also functions as a liquor store. It should be noted that this was, without a doubt, one of the sketchiest alcohol-buying experiences of my life. From start to finish, it felt like being on the buying-end of a bootlegging operation.


More Morocco from The Hangry Backpacker:

  • Marrakech Travel Guide
  • The Marrakech Snake Scam
  • Essaouira Travel Guide

My main problem with the blue city of Morocco is the false narrative. Somehow, tourists miss that Chefchaouen is a tourist trap and believe these nonsensical tales. When tourists knowingly travel to a fake place, that’s fine. I would like to encourage travelers to seek out more authentic destinations, but it’s not always going to happen. That’s okay, as long as the touristy place isn’t masquerading as a long-lost hub of authentic culture. 

Chefchaouen blue city street Morocco

When we visit the Eiffel Tower, the Colosseum or some other popular tourist site, we expect crowds and touristy things in the area. When we’re fooled into a destination, it’s no fun. It’s embarrassing and frustrating.

Morocco has done a fine job of promoting the blue city of Chefchaouen. Somehow, between the lax marijuana regulations and a few buckets of blue paint, social media has taken notice. The reality is, however, that Chefchaouen is a tourist trap. Travelers searching for some sort of isolated culture within a pretty blue city in the mountains are mistaken. I repeat, Chefchaouen is a tourist trap. And, by the way, it’s not just me – the true nature of tourism in modern Chefchaouen is getting out.

Morocco’s blue mountain city is undeniably in a beautiful setting. The Rif Mountains are worth a visit in their own right.  While Chefchaouen is certainly nicer than many nearby towns, that’s a poor excuse to travel somewhere.  Before spending hours on winding mountain roads to get there, temper expectations and know that Chefchaouen is a giant facade for tourists. 

Filed Under: Get Lost, Lagniappe

Esaaouira, Morocco Travel Guide

December 22, 2019 By Hangry Backpacker Leave a Comment

Essaouira is the perfect beach travel getaway in Morocco, especially for backpackers. All of the attractive traits of popular Moroccan travel destinations are present in Essaouira, but the attitude and pace of life is pleasant, chill and fitting for a beach town.

Essaouira travel medina center minaret

Backpackers and other travelers visiting Essaouira (pronounced: ess-oh-ear-uh) often arrive with few plans, unsure what there is to do. Many of the same unsuspecting visitors wind up extending their stays. Essaouira is one of those places that’s hard to leave. The laid-back atmosphere is magnetic. [Read more…] about Esaaouira, Morocco Travel Guide

Filed Under: City Guides

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The Magnolia State! I've always thought Magnolia The Magnolia State! 

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Staple (noun) - a basic or necessary item of food Staple (noun) - a basic or necessary item of food

Pizza fits that definition and there is always time and always room for awesome pizza.

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I love a good view! This one, from the Clock Tower I love a good view! This one, from the Clock Tower of Tirana, offers great views over Skanderbeg Square.

From the top, you can see that Tirana is different than what people may assume. It's green and lively with a mountain backdrop, modern and historic at the same time. 

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The Church of St. Michael, Berat. This tiny Orthod The Church of St. Michael, Berat. This tiny Orthodox church sits on the cliffside between old town and Berat Castle. Though it isn't the most majestic church, it dates back to the Byantine era of the 14th Century and has great views.

The walk up may be difficult for some, but it's easier and shorter than it appears from street level. To my surprise, only a few other people were up there the whole time we were looking around.

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