Hangry Backpacker

Egypt has long been a famous travel destination. Touring the sights of Ancient Egypt is a thrilling experience, and the modern nation has a lot to offer, too. From ancient civilization to sprawling megacity, there is no shortage of excitement waiting.

For many visitors, a trip to Egypt can also come with plenty of anxiety and uncertainty, which can easily lead to confusion and frustration. That is not something you want to detract from this fascinating place and the trip of a lifetime.

Exploring the land of pyramids and mummies should be every bit as memorable as you hope. The best way to ensure that you have the unforgettable trip you’ve always imagined is to go prepared.

Before traveling to Egypt, I spent a lot of time researching everything from safety and transportation to ticket prices and street food. I’m glad I did the research, but the best information is usually that which is acquired first hand. These travel tips for Egypt are taken from our personal experiences, research and learned lessons in the land of pharaohs.

1. Pre-Arrange Airport Transportation

Most tourists arrive in Egypt via plane, often after a lengthy flight. In our case, the outbound 36-hour journey consisted of three flights totaling about 20 hours in the air. The final leg was a dolorous 13 hours. Exhaustion was teetering on the verge of delirium.

Fortunately, I’ve boarded a fair few uncomfortable transcontinental flights. The last thing you want to do when you land is stress about how to reach your accommodation. Arrange it beforehand. It’s worth every penny.

Stressing about ground transportation, hoping that the Uber app works, haggling with taxi drivers and trusting that I’m not getting scammed – this isn’t something I’m willing to chance when I’m exhausted. Instead, I spent a few dollars more and arranged transportation before I left home. For a grand total of $25 ($17 + $8 tip), that is easily worth the reduction of stress and my peace of mind in a state of utter exhaustion.

There are many transport operators from which you can choose. We chose to book with 12Go, whom we have used all around the world: Cairo Airport Transportation

2. Don’t Forget to Tip!

Egypt has a notorious tipping culture, one even more serious than the asinine American tipping culture. And it goes double for tourists, perhaps literally. You are expected to tip.

Whether it’s a taxi, bellhop, waiter – if you are receiving anything remotely close to any kind of service, a tip is expected. Keep in mind, if you haven’t received any service, you don’t have to tip; however, what locals qualify as ‘service’ when it pertains to tourists has extremely liberal parameters.

The word ‘baksheesh’ is the one that means tip. Many tourists who travel to Egypt report having this word screamed at them at some point or other. This was not our experience, but it’s a good word to know.

Most importantly! Don’t forget to tip your guides! While many who demand tips do not deserve it, official tour guides should not be lumped in with that bunch. Official tour guides in Egypt are held to high standards, provide excellent service and are deserving of something extra.

3. Keep Walking and Say “No”

Touts, vendors, merchants – whatever you want to call them, just say “No.” These people are outside (and often inside) every site of interest for tourists in Egypt, and they can sense weakness. Next thing you know, you’ll be trying to figure out how to pack the stuffed camel you now own or wondering how you squandered so much cash on an ordinary rock carved into a pyramid.

Try to avoid eye contact, too (unless you are genuinely interested in something). They are relentless in Egypt, albeit not as aggressive and sneaky as those I experienced in Morocco.

Regardless, be firm. If you don’t need something or don’t want to buy something, say “no” and keep walking. If a vendor persists aggressively or touches you, be firm. Don’t be afraid to raise your voice. And DO NOT feel guilty. This is something, in my opinion, that is unacceptable and simply poor business practice. The only reason they act this way is because it works enough on people who give in to their efforts.

On this note, this is something that Egypt’s tourist police and agencies need to fix. Tourists are willing to spend money, but this kind of behavior discourages many tourists from even stopping to consider making a purchase. Some people have such poor experiences they refuse to return to Egypt and encourage others not to visit at all.

If you know where you are going, don’t let someone try to lead you in another direction. In fact, no matter where you are, it’s probably best to not follow any overeager local you don’t know.

Our experience wasn’t traumatizing or anything like that, though we’ve prior experience with aggressive touts. Just be firm, say “no” or completely ignore them and keep walking.

4. Haggle

If you’re purchasing a souvenir, trinket, a camel ride – basically, if you’re purchasing any object or service that might fall into the ‘tourist’ realm – negotiate the price. Otherwise you’re getting ripped off, because that painting is not actually done by Muhammad Ali (yes, someone actually said this to me, and he specifically meant the boxer). And that little figurine is not ancient. It’s cool, sure, but it’s cheap and certainly not historic.

Make sure you negotiate. Once you get into it, it’s kind of fun, too.

5. Hire a Private Tour Guide

This may be the most important Egypt travel tip you come across. A tour guide in Egypt is a wonderful resource to have. Egyptian tour guides are far more than a person to lead you around the famous sites.

Official tour guides in Egypt are held to high standards. Their knowledge of history is extremely impressive. Beyond history, official tour guides can be a great resource for local advice and suggestions, and they will make your trip to Egypt significantly better and more manageable. This is an investment that is well worth it, especially for first-time visitors.

6. Don’t Drink the Water

Seriously, don’t take the chance. Buy bottled water. Look into those portable water filtering bottles if you can’t stand the plastic water bottles. I would prefer not to create the waste, too, but I’d rather just get over myself and also not have violent diarrhea.

It’s up to you, but I suggest buying bottled water for a few days. Plant a tree when you get home. Spend a day cleaning a beach. You’ll feel better about your wasteful travel footprint afterwards. You can pat yourself on the back, too.

Anyway, don’t drink the water. You’ll probably get sick.

7. Don’t Miss Out on Upper Egypt!

The Pyramids are cool and all. This is obvious. Ancient, famous, enormous, historically significant, mysterious – what more can one wish for in an historic attraction? It’s hard to imagine traveling to Egypt and skipping the Pyramids, so don’t do that. But…

Upper Egypt is incredible. From Luxor and the Valley of the Kings to Aswan and Abu Simbel, Upper Egypt far exceeded my expectations. The scale of the structures, craftsmanship and detail on display for thousands of years is incomprehensible.

Don’t allot too many days in and around Giza. Seeing the Pyramids is certainly worth the trip. Once you go south, though, it quickly becomes apparent why Upper Egypt is so impressive. Be sure to include it in your itinerary.

8. Give Cairo a Chance

Too many tourists exit the plane, collect their baggage, exit Cairo International Airport and head straight for Giza and the Pyramids. Often, Cairo isn’t given much of a thought. It’s not quite what most people imagine, and certainly not what we expected.

Despite the enormous city that exists today, Cairo has history, too. A lot. It’s well over 1000 years old and has been the cultural center of Egypt and an important city in the greater region for centuries.

History aside, it’s one of the largest cities in the world, home to over 20 million(!) people. That is something to see in itself. Oh, and there is some seriously great food in there, too. Most of the city is much cheaper than the tourist areas in which most visitors spend time.

As an added bonus, tourists are largely ignored in Cairo. Away from the museums and landmarks, we spent a few days wandering the streets of Cairo where no one bothered us at all. For these reasons and more, take a couple of days in Cairo to eat and explore.

9. Take the Silly Tourist Photos

Time, money, courage (for some) – it takes a lot to travel all the way to Egypt. Forget when, you never know IF you’ll be back.

In addition to your stunning photography, take the silly photos, too. Friends and family might enjoy seeing it one day. Besides, everyone else, myself included, likely has the same great photos of the Sphinx or camels strolling by the Pyramids at sunset.

What I have that others do not are photos of myself. There is even be a cheesy pic or two. Years or decades from now, those pictures will probably more cherished than the ones where I was trying to be a NatGeo photographer.

10. Don’t Pay for Locals’ Tickets

You should not ever have to pay for your guide’s ticket. Legitimate, official guides in Egypt either do not have to pay for admission, have an annual pass or their tickets should be factored into their fees.

Ticket prices for Egyptians and Arabs are extremely cheap anyway, about one-tenth of the price that non-Arab tourists pay. Most Egyptian tour guides are excellent. They are knowledgeable, friendly, accommodating and trustworthy. If you have any doubt, make sure you know associated costs, i.e. entrance fees, for what you’re doing that day.

11. Keep Some Pocket Change on Hand

Sometimes, it’s the cost of doing your business. Even when you might assume use of a toilet is free, such as those at archaeological sites that you already paid to enter, that’s not necessarily the case.

Public toilets may charge a small fee. Or, the toilet may indeed be free, except for a bathroom attendant present who demands a tip. Call that ‘free’ if you wish…

12. Be Discreet with Your Cash

Egypt is generally a very safe place to travel. Tourists are a valued part of the economy. Thus, tourist safety is a high priority for law enforcement. However, the protection of tourists doesn’t extend to petty rackets. As its reputation accurately suggests, travel in Egypt regularly comes with scams. These can vary from small sums from “innocent” overcharging to hundreds of dollars for souvenirs.

Flashing or flaunting cash is unwise behavior in most places. The same goes for Egypt. Don’t make yourself a target for theft. Further, pulling out wads of money is a great way to ensure you are scammed or overcharged.

13. Beware of On-site Grifters

Don’t pay anyone inside any temple, tomb or other tourist site. If you’re past the entrance, you have already paid the necessary entrance fee. There is no other reason you should have to fork up more money.

Travel to Egypt comes with encountering touts and grifters. Somehow, every site in Egypt seems to come with people harassing tourists, hands out, asking for money, trying to sell you a piece of junk, telling you some likely-untrue tale or leading you to some “secret” spot. And they always demand a tip.

Tourists too often relent and pay the grifters to go away. Of course, this is ineffective. For one, this reinforces the behavior for the next group of tourist victims. Additionally, when you eventually pay an aggressive tout just to leave you alone, there is no guarantee they will.

The authorities rarely care about this. Hiring a guide is an excellent way to keep the touts and beggars at bay while also gaining access to tremendous information.

14. Don’t Pay Extra for a Guide at the Valley of the Kings

Guides are not allowed to accompany tourists into the tombs at the Valley of the Kings. Paying for a guide is really a waste of money. They are allowed to escort you as far as the entrance of each tomb but may not go in with you. The interior of tombs is unbelievably hot, and every additional person inside will only enhance the thickness of the air and increase the temperature.

Egyptian guides are a tremendous resource, and a guide may possess a wealth of information. Fortunately, each tomb at the Valley of the Kings has a sign posted at the entrance with a lot of information about what lies inside.

If you already have a guide to lead you through Egypt, that’s fine. Let the guide make the trip to the Valley of the Kings easy, and take the suggestions for which tombs to visit. Otherwise, there is no need to hire a guide specifically for this part of your trip.

15. Skip King Tut’s Tomb

Unless you have plenty of time at the Valley of the Kings to see all of the open tombs – in this instance, ‘plenty of time’ means you plan to visit multiple days – prioritize other tombs over King Tut’s Tomb (KV62).

King Tut may be the most celebrated pharaoh today, but he wasn’t back then. His tomb is simply not as cool as the others. With a finite amount of time, more spectacular tombs at the Valley of the Kings are far more impressive and worth your sweat and time.

Check out our guide for the Valley of the Kings, Luxor Temple & Karnak!

16. Claustrophobes Beware!

If you are legitimately, severely claustrophobic, you may want to skip that visit to the Valley of the Kings. You will also want to exercise caution before agreeing to crawl into certain areas in Egypt.

I’m mildly claustrophobic. The mere idea of someone jokingly stuffing me in a trunk or zipping me in a sleeping bag makes me very uncomfortable. But those are very small spaces. I didn’t think twice about entering the tombs in the Valley of the Kings, but it may make some people fairly uncomfortable. The chambers open at the Pyramids and Saqqara are also rather small. There’s not much to see in there, but keep that in mind.

17. Be Observant of Others’ Clothing

From Mrs. Hangry Backpacker: It is important to be situationally observant about what others are wearing. What is acceptable to wear at the beach isn’t necessarily okay at the Valley of the Kings. You don’t want to stand out and attract any more unwanted attention than tourists already do.

18. Eat Local

Egyptian food is good, and the prices are super cheap. Apprehensive tourists have a tendency in places like Egypt to not eat beyond the confines of their hotel premises.

Don’t be afraid to seek out good, local Egyptian food. It’s not on the same level as Italy or Thailand, and that’s okay. While sampling the local cuisine may not be a big draw to visit Egypt, it’s a fun part of traveling anywhere. Venture out and take a bite. You might be surprised.

Surviving the Sahara Heat

Egypt is hot. I don’t care where you’re from, blistering desert sun and regular temperatures of 114°F (45°C) and hotter is brutal. That was the high in Luxor a couple of days while we were there, and it was not even the hottest time of year. This kind of heat takes a toll on anyone.

I’m from a place that regularly hits 100°F with humidity over 90%. I may be more accustomed to heat than others, especially when the air is dry. It hasn’t rained in Luxor in over 10 years. It doesn’t get much drier than that, but that Sahara desert heat is something else.

Dealing with the heat is crucial to helping you enjoy your travel in Egypt. It’s also important to protect yourself from these harsh elements. Utilize the following heat-related Egypt travel tips to help manage the Sahara environment:

18. Sunscreen

The sun is always out. And the desert sun is ruthless. Pack sunscreen. It can be expensive in Egypt when you can find it, and you probably want to ensure that you have a trustworthy or preferred brand anyway.

19. Bring a Hat

Make sure to pack a hat. One with a large brim is better. A good summer hat to protect your head, face and neck can do wonders to shield your skin from the sun, and it makes a tremendous difference in keeping you cooler.

20. Pack Light-colored, Loose-fitting Clothing

High temperatures might have you consider packing a bag full of short shorts and tank tops. This isn’t the best idea. For one, it would be rather inconsiderate to walk around in skimpy clothes in much of Egypt. Muslim culture dominates. Although we saw many local women dressed in more Western fashion, I can’t recall seeing any pushing the limits very far. Within most hotels and resorts, this isn’t an issue.

Local custom aside, clothing choice is critical to manage the heat. Fabric that is lightweight and loose-fitting, such as light cotton or linen is a good choice. This dries quickly and a loose fit helps allow your skin to cool. Although it may seem counterintuitive, long sleeves (loose-fitting, of course) can actually keep you cooler than exposed skin.

Light colors are an obvious choice. You wouldn’t want to be wearing dark clothing that absorbs more light and heat while you’re out in the Egyptian sun.

21. Bring a Small Fan

A small, portable fan is typically something I would not suggest anyone pack on a trip. It’s usually a waste of space in a bag. In Egypt, however, a good little fan is a valuable thing to possess.

We visited museums that were not air-conditioned, and the stagnant air within really took its toll. There was also public transportation, which was pretty hot. On the Night Train from Cairo to Aswan, the air conditioning wasn’t the best. Even in the open air, a little extra breeze can help.

Your best bet is a small fan that is rechargeable, easily carried and easily stored in a day bag. Wearable neck fans are also good.

22. Sunglasses

Sunglasses seem like an obvious thing to pack. Personally, I brought two pairs with me, but I’m pretty particular about my shades.

A good pair of sunglasses that will protect your eyes from the sun is a necessity. Packing a second, cheap pair isn’t a bad idea. Seeing as Egypt is overwhelmingly desert, a bit of wind picking up can easily send a grain of sand toward your face. Nothing wrong with sunglasses doubling as a stylish bit of eye protection.

23. Hydrate!

The air of the Sahara desert is very hot and extremely dry. Sweat evaporates quickly in these conditions. Just because you may not feel that sweaty, you can still be losing a lot of fluid. Always have plenty of water on hand or nearby.

24. Don’t Forget Breakfast

Believe it or not, an empty stomach isn’t a great asset to possess before a day of touring open air archaeological sites in blistering heat and oppressive sun. Make sure to eat something in the morning. Don’t stuff yourself, but don’t set out on a totally empty stomach either.

25. Easy on the Booze

Limit the boozing before touring days. If you know you’re getting up the following morning to go tour an ancient temple, some ruins or whatever it may be, you don’t want to be dragging along in the Sahara heat with a hangover. Consider an easy night before days of exploring.

26. Seek Shade

Find shade. Take breaks.

If you’re like me, I get a bit excited in places like Egypt. There is so much to see, and it was so much more impressive than I imagined. My mentality is automatically ‘Go, go, go’ to see as much as possible.

I’m pretty heat tolerant. Even when the temperature was passing 110°F in the middle of the day, it didn’t slow me down. To be clear, I was always donning desert-friendly accouterments and drinking lots of water. Lucky for me, crowds are much thinner at the archaeological sites at this time.

Most people, however, are not this heat tolerant. Mrs. Hangry Backpacker, for instance, is nearly the opposite. She frequently needed to find bits of shade. Despite my tendency to keep exploring, I often forced myself to join her for my own safety. Desert heat can sneak up on you.

For safety reasons, don’t hesitate to take breaks in the shade. The reality of traveling to Egypt is that you can’t possibly see it all. Even in a lifetime. Don’t test the Sahara.

27. A Small Umbrella

This might seem a silly thing to take to Egypt. It doesn’t rain much there. In fact, some areas go years or decades between brief showers. But that midday sun is something you can count on showing up. Shade can be extremely scarce at this time. Trees are uncommon, too.

If you’re especially sensitive to the heat, bring a small umbrella. Every additional protection against the sun is a valuable thing to have.

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With the right preparation and cache of travel tips, visiting Egypt can be the trip of a lifetime. For many tourists, simply getting there can be a tedious process. Making the most of your time and knowing what to expect is a great way to help ensure that the adventure runs as smoothly as possible.

Taking the time to research your destination is the best way to prepare for a place you’ve never been. There’s no substitute for being there in person, but acquiring information from first-hand sources is a great way to start your planning. Hopefully, these travel tips provide a little insight to what Egypt is like and what you may encounter. Above all, be observant, aware of your surroundings and have fun. Safe travels!

The time came, and I was finally able to travel to Barcelona. The Catalan capital was never high on my travel list, but sure, I wanted to visit. Someday.

Over the course of several years, I heard from friends, relatives and other travel bloggers that Barcelona is nothing short of spectacular, cool, fun and, unequivocally, a “favorite place in Europe.”

The opportunity arose, and my wife and I made our way to Barcelona during a trip to Spain. Despite the hype and resounding endorsements, I tempered my expectations. I made an attempt to do so, anyway. To be fair, my knowledge of the city was limited mostly to Sagrada Familia, other Gaudi marks on the cityscape, FC Barcelona, the ‘92 Summer Olympics (which I was far too young to actually recall), beaches and the Catalan independence movement.

Of course, I did tons of research beforehand. By the time we got off the high-speed train from Madrid, there was a lot more that I wanted to check out.

After a week in the city, having checked off boxes and seeing much more, I couldn’t help feeling a little disappointed as we took the train back to Madrid. After all of the glowing reviews, that is what everyone is raving about?

Parts of the city are cool, the food is good and the weather is nice. Still, it certainly didn’t live up to the greatness about which I heard and read.

Barcelona, for me, did not live up to the hype. Before I get into the specifics, there is relevant background information that played a part in my experience and also impacts locals and other tourists.

For those who don’t know, Barcelona is the 2nd-largest city in Spain. Located in the northeast of the country along the Mediterranean Sea, it is the capital of the region of Catalunya, a region that is quite different from other areas of Spain. I’m not here to discuss Catalan politics, but it is an important thing to note about the city.

Barcelona is one of the most popular tourist destinations in the world. Sources vary, but the city received an estimated 12-15 million tourists in 2023. That’s in addition to the roughly 1.6 million people who call the city home. And it’s not a sprawling city; in fact, Barcelona has a population similar to the cities of Munich and Philadelphia, but those cities cover 3 and 3.5 times more area, respectively.

In other words, Barcelona is an extremely densely-populated city, the most densely-populated in Europe. Essentially, that’s a large amount of people in a not-so-large space. Oh, and that’s before accounting for the 12-15 million additional visitors.

A tightly-packed urban center is not necessarily a bad thing. Sure, you can expect a lot of people, but it also ensures that you probably won’t have to go far to get from point A to point B. And you’re sure to find a fun, urban-living vibe to explore.

There’s definitely a vibe to the city, and that’s another important trait to note. I’ll get back to this later.

First, I want to break down different aspects of the city.

Stunning, Unique Architecture… Kind Of

Barcelona is noteworthy as the home of some peculiar and stunning architecture. Most famous for the mark architect Antoni Gaudi’s left on the city, Gaudi’s creations are rather few among the cityscape that is an urban center with millions of people and thousands upon thousands of buildings.

It’s cool to see the Gaudi buildings. I’ve only seen them in textbooks and on TV shows. So I sought them out, stood there and thought, “That’s really cool!.. now what?”

What I’m trying to say is that a couple of weird buildings stand out, but they are hardly representative of the city as a whole.

To be fair, there is some really cool architecture. To name an obvious choice, Sagrada Familia is spectacular and worth a visit. Whether or not it justifies a trip to Barcelona on its own – maybe, maybe not. We’ll have a guide posted about it soon, so be sure to keep a look out for that.

There are certainly other beautiful buildings to behold. But as a whole, Barcelona lacks the European charm in its architecture that attracts millions of visitors to other cities across the region.

Viewed from above, Barcelona is not the most beautiful city. In fact, it’s pretty bland. In truth, most of the city is not that old. What is interesting is the city planning and overall design. The purposely-designed city blocks in the Eixample district might be unsightly, but it is a brilliant planning idea. The corners of the blocks were cut off, making each ‘block’ an octagon and opening up sections of sidewalk and intersections. It gives the city a more open feel despite the overcrowding.

While these octagonal blocks and other parts of the city are interesting, it’s largely pretty bland. From my perspective, the most attractive portions of Barcelona have been damaged by mass tourism.

This brings us to the next point of why Barcelona is a bit disappointing.

Too Many Tourists

Barcelona is overwhelmed by tourists. Yes, I recognize the irony (perhaps hypocrisy) of this point. I, too, was one of the “too many” tourists in Barcelona. The point remains true.

But I wanted to see for myself what the fuss was all about, and I was genuinely looking forward to the visit.

The tourists in this place are too many, especially in the city center, but it’s hard to escape massive crowds all over the place. And this is even when considering that I was told by a local that it was the offseason. Really, it was probably the shoulder season, but that’s splitting hairs.

Anyway, there are too many tourists in Barcelona. So many, in fact, that it takes away from the enjoyment of the city. The Gothic Quarter, truly the would-be coolest part of the city, has been trivialized by the hordes of people, troupes of drunken tourists and too many of the tacky tourist shops that belong in Vegas or on Bourbon Street.

In and around the Gothic Quarter, it’s street after street with tens of thousands of people. Throw in the occasional non-local harassing you to buy some knock-off piece of junk when you stop for a moment to try and appreciate a particular sight, it’s hard to enjoy. I can really understand why the people of Barcelona are fed up with overtourism.

Higher Prices

We didn’t travel to Barcelona to party. Maybe that was the mistake, but that’s not really where my interests lie. Hostels are always my preferred choice of accommodation, but it wasn’t a realistic option in Barcelona.

There is no shortage of hostels in Barcelona. I’m sure there are laid back options that aren’t party-focused, but I didn’t have any luck finding these. The options I came across seemed to highlight the nightlife. I enjoy the social aspects of hostels immensely, but it’s hard to adequately explain how little interest I have in clubs.

This isn’t exactly conducive to my style of travel – a version of aimless slow travel, led by curiosity, that largely centers around a personal culinary exploration.

Anyway, these kinds of hostels aren’t my style. Even if they were, the prices for a bed in a dorm were outrageous. Seeing the rates for private rooms left me scratching my head. Why would anyone pay over €100 a night to stay in a hostel? And these were prices in the so-called offseason.

Unfortunately, with hostels out of the equation, the focus turned toward hotels. There are hundreds, probably thousands, of hotels in Barcelona. These come in all shapes and varieties. I opted for a hotel about 30 minutes (walking) from the Gothic Quarter. Aside from this hotel, there was no obvious reason for tourists to be in the area.

The cost was a little more than €165 per night. It was nice but very small and bare bones. All in all, that’s not terrible. But when I factored in the distance from anything of interest and the lack of amenities, it looked a lot more expensive. However, for a decent, safe(ish), clean place, this was one of the few options. Anything better – be that a better location, inclusive of breakfast, nicer or whatever that may entail – was considerably more expensive.

To be fair, I’d rather spend €165 for a night in an uninspiring Barcelona neighborhood than the same price (probably higher) for a night next to a highway 20 miles outside of Nashville or Detroit. No offense to Nashville or Detroit, but I’m choosing Barcelona. Of course, comparable accommodation in either of those cities would be more expensive and less walkable than Barcelona anyway.

There were cheaper hotels available, but the choices were grim. In hindsight, I’m actually happy I wasn’t staying nearer to the Gothic Quarter, as I found much more enjoyment in other areas of Barcelona.

Food in Spain is generally affordable. You can get fantastic food for a fair price. Prices in Barcelona did seem higher to me than anywhere else I’ve been in the country. Obviously, this holds true near the tourist areas. Overall, meals were generally more affordable than much of the USA but less so than elsewhere in Spain.

If I were to make a detailed travel budget, I would probably allot daily costs in Barcelona roughly 30% more than Madrid and double what you might pay for a day in Andalucía.

There is No Offseason

Barcelona doesn’t really have much of an offseason. Traveling in early Spring, I predicted I would find the city quieter than peak travel times of Summer.

My hypothesis was found to be slightly accurate.

Apparently, this was the slower period of ‘low season’ in Barcelona. Could have fooled me.

Commenting to a local about the crowds and how I would have liked to visit during a quieter time, I was met with a laugh. “This is the low season and nothing compared to Summer.”

How could this be? There are streets where you can hardly traverse through the crowds. Most restaurants are packed. Prices are still high!

Upon further questioning, he explained that the tourists never really stop coming. Cooler months, times you might expect thinner crowds, see plenty of visitors hoping to escape the cold in their home country. It also attracts people like me, hoping to visit during a calmer time.

Summer – well, Summer just attracts everyone from everywhere. This includes more docking cruise ships, and they inundate the city with thousands of tourists each day.

What I learned in this brief back-and-forth was that Barcelona is always in-season. I don’t blame anyone for visiting whenever they so choose. Barcelona has great weather for much of the year and a vibrant culture in a beautiful region of Spain.

For me, however, it’s a serious turn off. I try to avoid excessive crowds. It’s not always practical, but that’s my preference.

Furthermore, I can’t help but feel for the locals. It’s hard to imagine how such large numbers of tourists impact the quality of life for residents. Sure, the bottom line goes up. But for whom? There are profits, yes, but I’ve delved into economics of the travel world enough to know that those benefiting from mass tourism in Barcelona are likely not the majority of Barcelonans.

For the record (again), I’m not a socialist or an anti-capitalist. I am pro-local. Whenever I can, I prefer my spending to go to locally-owned and operated small businesses.

Redemption

The millions of tourists who travel to Barcelona don’t ruin everything about this famous destination. There are certainly still reasons to visit, primarily the weather and food.

If one was determined to visit a Mediterranean metropolis with little concern otherwise, this is an easy choice. The weather is pleasant, and it is a city. Flights are abundant and frequently cheap. The best part about this might be to use Barcelona as a natural gateway to more interesting parts of Catalunya or the Spanish Mediterranean Coast.

What’s not bland in Barcelona is the food. Spanish food is good. Very good. It’s some of the best in the world, and that is something I will stand by forever. In Barcelona, the cuisine is a great blend of standard Spanish fare with a healthy dose of Catalan and Mediterranean influences.

Jamon is in ample supply, so there’s no need to worry about that. Most staples of Spanish cuisine are prevalent in Barcelona. Catalan specialties may not dominate menus like they do elsewhere in the region, but local eats are still there for the tasting. Tourism, among other things, is the likely cause for the preference and prevalence of non-Catalan food; however, local specialties are easier to find away from tourist areas.

It’s all about the hunt. With a little patience, you can find those great local spots to relax and enjoy the cuisine of Barcelona. Stay tuned for our Barcelona Food Guide coming soon!

So What is the Attraction of Barcelona?

Remember that “vibe” I mentioned earlier? I think that is what attracts people to this Mediterranean metropolis.

Parts of the city are old and attractive, yes, but it’s not like walking through a giant open air museum, a la Rome. The streets don’t have the charm of a town in Provence, the history of Prague or beauty of Amsterdam. Personally, I think other cities in Spain like Granada or Seville are far more interesting.

Rather, the attraction of Barcelona for so many people is the vibe. The free-spirited, laze-in-the-sun-between-nights-of-partying atmosphere – I think this is what attracted so many of the people who shared their first-hand love affair of Barcelona with me.

That attitude sounds fine to me. I get it. It’s a chill place to be with nice weather and plenty of fun to be had. The food is great.

I suppose I have a different idea of fun and different travel priorities. That’s okay, too.

Barcelona, Round 2?

With the let down of my visit, would I ever consider another trip to Barcelona?

Yes. Absolutely. I honestly hope to return.

It’s not a high priority, but I did find areas of Barcelona that I enjoyed. And, while a week in a small area does afford one plenty of time to get a thorough taste, I am well aware that there remains a lot of the city which I did not experience.

I was not miserable, nor did I ever let my optimism or excitement at the start of each day fade. When the food is good, I always manage to enjoy myself in the moment. It was/is upon reflection at the end of each day and since our visit that I have the feeling of being underwhelmed. It is entirely possible to enjoy yourself just about anywhere, even when the destination might not live up to its reputation. My wife and I had a fun trip, and she very much liked the city.

Barcelona will also serve as a good base to explore the surrounding area. Should I have the opportunity to one day see more of Catalunya, which is high on my list, it’s only natural that would include more time in Barcelona.

Although it is struggling to cope with overtourism, Spain’s most popular tourist destination has its redeeming qualities. The unique blend of Catalan and greater Spanish cuisine is excellent. The weather is an undeniable attraction. Less tourism-inundated neighborhoods of the city maintain, at least for the time being, a certain undeniable appeal.

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Travel is about having our own, unique experiences exploring the world. If every trip was the same, there would be little reason to get off the couch. The internet and books would suffice.

Thankfully, no two travel experiences are identical.

Barcelona was a disappointment for my first visit. Based on the millions of people who have a starkly different opinion, though, I can surmise that my opinion is very much in the minority.

That said, it’s important to remember that most of the travel content we see is a cherry-picked, polished glimpse into a much larger adventure. The negative side of travel is less broadcasted. Sharing of the mundane aspects is even less frequent.

Most of what I see and hear about Barcelona is nothing short of travel paradise. My visit reminded me, once more, that sometimes you have to see something for yourself. It’s far from a perfect tourist destination, and I believe this is important to share, too.

Spain is one of my favorite travel destinations in the world. I’ve been there multiple times, and I plan to return again and again. Barcelona may not be my favorite place in Spain, but I will keep an open mind. I look forward to the next visit and the all-important second impression.

The temples, ruins and historic sites around Luxor are the most spectacular parts of visiting Ancient Egypt. That’s right. Even when considering the Pyramids and the Great Sphinx in Giza, nothing from Ancient Egypt comes close to Luxor Temple, the Valley of the Kings and the Karnak Temple Complex.

The Pyramids are huge and extremely famous. They are absolutely interesting, and visiting them is an unforgettable experience, but the sites of Ancient Egypt in and around Luxor are on a different level.

For those unaware, Upper Egypt is actually Southern Egypt. “Upper” refers to the direction of the northerly-flowing Nile River, this area of Egypt being UPstream on the Nile.

The ruins of long-time ancient capital Thebes (Waset to ancient Egyptians) lie on the banks of the Nile within present-day Luxor, the largest city in Southern/Upper Egypt. It is a fairly densely populated city with a little less than 1.5 million people. For comparison, the density is only slightly less than Cairo, which is one of the largest, most densely populated areas in the world.

In other words, the city of Luxor, while crowded, does not cover a very large area. As always, life in Egypt is close to the river. For most visitors, their time will be spent in areas near the Nile River. Most hotels are close to the river, and the temple complexes of Luxor and Karnak are right there.

Before we get to it, this is a travel blog to share stories, information and tips. We are not a travel agency, nor are we a tour service. I understand what it’s like trying to search for travel information about the famous sites of Ancient Egypt. Navigating through the dozens of pages and websites that are ultimately selling tours and excursions is frustrating. It’s difficult to know what is authentic and trustworthy. All of the information here is based on our own research and our personal experiences at Luxor Temple, Karnak and the Valley of the Kings.

Luxor Temple

Luxor Temple is right next to the Nile River. It is literally across the street. For the many visitors who reach Luxor via river cruise, most of the ships dock right there, within steps of the temple.

Luxor Temple Complex is over 3000 years old, initially constructed during the reign of Amenhotep the Great and expanded over thousands of years. Even King Tut left his mark on the complex. And, of course, the structures were utilized by the Greeks and Romans when they conquered Egypt.

The history of Luxor Temple is long, intertwining several empires, and it’s fascinating. Such an abundance of history can be overwhelming, though. It’s impractical for most visitors to travel to Egypt and absorb all of the information. Truthfully, most visitors grow numb to the inundation of facts, tales and legends. Realistically, people devote their entire lives to the history in this region and can’t learn and discover everything.

Others may simply not be interested. I’m not of the same mind, but that’s okay. How one enjoys their trip isn’t really my concern. Except for the wannabe-influencer photo shoots – that is thoroughly cringeworthy and annoying.

Anyway, the best way to approach your visit to Luxor Temple (and other places) is simply to enjoy it. Don’t stress about learning and seeing everything. It’s not disrespectful. It’s practical. Factoring in the abundance of information, the stress of aggressive touts and the oppressive Egyptian heat, it can be exhausting. Just have fun.

Luxor Temple sits in the heart of Luxor. It’s not especially large and is fairly well-preserved. It does get crowded when the cruise ships unload their passengers, especially at night. The best way to enjoy the temple is with patience. We all want photos of the site, and it can be frustrating when so many people find their way into every shot.

What I appreciate about Luxor Temple is how close it is to the Nile River. The setting is picturesque, to say the least, with famous ancient ruins situated on the banks of the very river that has provided sustenance to nearby residents for thousands of years. The Nile River is the lifeblood of Egypt, and Luxor Temple’s location highlights that.

The late afternoon sun highlights the temple in the best way. Make sure to enjoy the scene during one of Egypt’s spectacular sunsets.

Even more remarkable is that Luxor Temple has survived for so long. To stroll through the temple and marvel at the architecture, artistry and resilience of the structure is impressive. Glancing in one direction and seeing one of the world’s most important and powerful rivers a stone’s throw away furthers the notion of the temple’s resilience.

Rivers like the Nile provide, but they are also extremely powerful. The dry weather in Egypt is known for preserving the ancient, but one might assume that the power of the Nile River would have a negative effect. However, evidence suggests that many ancient sites were actually protected by the river.

Seasonal floods came and deposited silt, which often buried and sealed off remnants of the ancient world for long periods of time. When sites were fully excavated, it became apparent that the harsh elements, including the water of the Nile, acted as preservatives. Thankfully, many of these spectacular pieces of human culture and history were found at the right times and cared for appropriately.

Avenue of Sphinxes

One of the most spectacular sights in Egypt is the Avenue of Sphinxes. An ancient avenue that connects Luxor and Karnak, nearly two miles long, the entire path is lined with statues on either side.

Some of the statues are rams, and others are criosphinx, which is a combination of a lion’s body with a ram’s head. The majority are the familiar sphinx, a lion’s body with a human head.

These are not the grandest statues. Compared to the famous Great Sphinx in Giza, they are quite small, but the sight is awesome. That is not to say these are miniature sphinxes. Each one is solid stone, over 6 feet tall and more than 12 feet long.

There are 1057 sphinxes, criosphinxes and rams in total.

Let’s put that into perspective. Thousands of years ago, in a time without mechanical power or tools, Ancient Egyptians extracted literal tons of stone, transported it to present-day Luxor and carved it into a perfect statue. And then did this 1056 more times. Each style of statue is identical and perfectly spaced from one another in a straight line nearly two miles long.

That is an incredible feat of engineering and craftsmanship. And it’s merely the road that connects two large temples, each imposing and magnificent in its own right.

While some of the statues were known and visible in recent history, the entire road between Luxor and Karnak was not completely excavated and open until 2021.

This is a great example of a massive piece of ancient history that has only recently been fully realized, and this is precisely why many people find Egypt an interesting place to visit. From an historic and touristic standpoint, it is constantly changing and developing. It is certainly not a “one and done” destination where you can check off all the boxes in a single trip.

The Avenue of Sphinxes, thousands of years old, stretching for such a great distance is not only an incredible feat of engineering. Perhaps the most extraordinary aspect is that it has survived so long. With the decline of Ancient Egypt, the road was gradually covered in sand. Lucky for us, the elements of nature and the course of history have preserved this stunning archaeological site.

One of the things I wish to do the most upon my return to Egypt is walk the entire length of the Avenue of the Sphinxes. At the time of my visit, the heat was taking its toll and time was limited. If you are able to walk the entire length, do it.

Karnak Temple Complex

At the other end of the Avenue of Sphinxes, opposite of Luxor Temple, is the Karnak Temple Complex. Approximately two miles away, Karnak is an enormous site.

Karnak is approximately 250 astounding acres of history. And, honestly, it’s hardly reasonable for the average tourist to absorb even a fraction of the history here. This is partially due to the scale of the site, but also because, from our current perspective, we view this as a single ancient site. What we view through our current lens of time as an individual ancient complex is, more accurately, the remains of several temples, monuments and shrines that were constructed during the reigns of several generations of pharaohs over many centuries.

The oldest portion of Karnak dates back almost 4000 years. Most of the site is at least 3000 years old, though there are some “newer” additions a mere 2000 years old.

There are many remarkable sights at Karnak. There are several ancient temples, varying from shockingly well-preserved to thoroughly ruined. One of the largest surviving obelisks of the ancient world is also found at Karnak. There is a sacred lake, which I am, admittedly, ignorant of its precise significance.

Adjacent to the lake is a statue of a scarab, the famous dung beetle of Ancient Egypt. The importance of this particular statue remains a mystery to me, but it can easily be found. There are people walking around it in circles, hoping that, after 7 revolutions, their greatest wish will come true.

Like Luxor Temple, Karnak sits with direct access to the Nile River. The large, open promenade between the river and the complex leads to a large pylon (the large entrance/facade of a temple complex). The entrance is lined with more small sphinxes and rams and opens into an open space like a big courtyard. The perimeter is lined with columns and statues and would be a cool sight in its own right. Beyond this area is one of the most spectacular remnants of Ancient Egypt.

The Great Hypostyle Hall

The Great Hypostyle Hall is a jaw-dropping sight to witness. What must have been the centerpiece of the Karnak Temple Complex is a collection of massive ancient columns spread across more than 50,000 square feet of area. The pillars are huge, some more than 30 feet in circumference and 70 feet tall. The columns vary in size, but the larger ones weigh 100 tons. For reference, a single column weighs more than multiple school buses.

Beyond the magnitude, the intricate detail and the beauty of the Great Hypostyle Hall is the mind-blowing engineering feat required to construct it. It would be easy to spend hours sitting there, pondering how it came together. The columns themselves are obviously massive, heavy objects. And there are a lot of them, 134 in total. How they managed to extract the stone, transport it, shape and raise these columns – by the way, they did it so precisely that they have lasted over 3000 years – with minimal tools and nothing but manpower and animals, it’s difficult to comprehend.

This, in itself, is an incogitable accomplishment. However, it’s not only the design and erection of over 100 gigantic columns that piques one’s curiosity and amazement. Originally, the Great Hypostyle Hall had a roof. This has not survived, but the beams that supported the roof have. The beams weigh a staggering 140,000 pounds, over 70 tons.

How exactly the Great Hypostyle Hall was constructed is a matter of debate for scholars and archaeologists. There are theories involving levers and ramps, among other hypotheses. The truth may lie somewhere in the debate, but I can be certain that this was an enormous task. Loading, raising and balancing massive columns and beams in place so perfectly that they can withstand thousands of years of nature and human life – the difficulty of this project cannot be overstated.

Each column is also covered in inscriptions that detail accounts of important historical events regarding the pharaohs who oversaw the construction. Many of these inscriptions have survived. For historians, this is a treasure trove of information. For the layman, the scene is an ancient work of art. When I inquired why they repainted some of the scenes on the columns and not all of them, I was quickly informed that this was, in fact, the original paint.

That tiny fact struck me. In addition to the structures and inscriptions, even the paint surviving – through times of war, conquest and the ever-present harsh desert environment – wow!

As I stared upward, likely with a slack jaw and perplexion visible on my face, I could not help but let my mind wonder about it all. With contemporary knowledge of science, would we be able to recreate the structure today without modern mechanical tools? Even three millenia later, it would assuredly be an impressive achievement.

Karnak is a magnificent piece of ancient history. Although it is certainly not forgotten, this complex deserves more attention than it receives.

Valley of the Kings

The Valley of the Kings is one of the most famous ancient sites in the world. In the frame of Ancient Egypt, it is nearly as famous as the Pyramids of Giza and the Great Sphinx.

Much of the notoriety of the Valley of the Kings is due to the 1922 discovery of the tomb of Tutankhamen. King Tut’s tomb, which was found nearly intact and barely disturbed (looted) in the more than 3000 years since his death, showed the world a glimpse into the immense wealth of Ancient Egypt’s pharaohs.

Compound the now-visible wealth of Ancient Egyptian Royalty with the fact that King Tut was, in the grand scheme of Ancient Egypt, a rather minor pharaoh, imaginations began to run wild. Interest in Ancient Egypt grew immensely. If this guy was not a major historical figure, more significant pharaohs must have had incomprehensible riches in their tombs.

Then there is the belief that there may be more tombs yet to be discovered. Egypt has a long history. There were a lot of rich, powerful people who died and didn’t want to part with their worldly possessions. What else might remain hidden?

Oh, and there are plenty of peculiar deaths and supposed curses associated with digging up these ancient sites.

All of this factored into the Valley of the Kings achieving notoriety as a fascinating and mysterious site. Naturally, as travel to distant places has become easier over the last century, the Valley of the Kings has become a popular stop on tours of Egypt.

The reality of visiting the Valley of the Kings as a tourist isn’t quite as exciting as all of the history and mystery, but it is one of the most wondrous archaeological sites in Egypt. In a land with thousands of years of visible, documented history, that is saying a lot.

So what exactly is the Valley of the Kings?

Essentially, it’s a small area within the larger Thebes necropolis (burial site) for royalty and nobility. The necropolis also includes the Valley of the Queens and the Mortuary Temple of Hatshepsut, among other historic sites.

For over 400 years, Egyptian kings, queens, their families and some members of the nobility were buried in elaborate tombs in the area. Generally speaking, the tombs date back approximately 3000-3500 years ago.

The Valley of the Kings is little more than a wadi, an area where rainfall collects, drains and erodes the landscape over time. It appears like a small canyon but lacks any permanent presence of water. And rain in this area is extremely rare. At the time of my visit, Luxor had not had a drop of rain in 10 years!

Frankly, if one were walking through the area, tomb entrances undiscovered and not yet visible, there is nothing to see. It is a rugged, harsh area. Pure desert. You’re surrounded by rocks, dirt and sun. Forget about greenery, shade or water.

Thankfully, this is not the case. The area has been explored and excavated. Aside from the tombs, there is still nothing around, but what lies beneath the surface more than makes up for the barren landscape.

In total, there are currently 65 tombs at the Valley of the Kings. “Currently” is the key word here. Multiple tombs have been discovered in the 21st Century, and records from 1500 BC are probably not the most reliable or extant sources. Archaeologists are still exploring, searching and excavating the area, so it’s entirely possible further fantastic discoveries are in the future.

The treasures and mummies that once rested in tombs of the Valley of the Kings have long been stolen, lost or relocated to museums. As unfortunate as this is, what was left behind may be even more monumental than gold and jewels.

Don’t let the unassuming entrances deceive you. For starters, these aren’t small crypts. The largest known tomb is that of Rameses II. It has 120 known rooms. Unfortunately, it is still being excavated and isn’t open to the public. Another notably large tomb is the tomb of Rameses III, which is open and is over 600 feet long. The tombs aren’t small, so hopefully this helps provide some comfort for curious claustrophobes.

Once inside, the tombs are decorated from wall to wall, ceiling to floor. They are designed with reliefs, paintings, hieroglyphics and art that tells stories and history. The vivid colors inside the tombs are the original, 3000-year-old strokes of paint.

The Valley of the Kings is sort of like a collection of dozens of adjacent subterranean ancient art galleries, each unique with its own history and tales. There is truly no place in the world like it. The idea of tiny, dusty old tombs is far from reality, and seeing these pieces of history up close is one of the coolest things you can do in Egypt.

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What’s So Special about the Sites in Upper Egypt?

Why is Upper Egypt a more interesting place to visit than the Pyramids, Sphinx and everything around the complex in Giza?

There are several reasons. Here are a few:

Ancient Upper Egypt is in Better Shape

In my opinion, the archaeological sites in Upper Egypt are in much better condition. There are definitely areas that fully qualify as ruins, but preservation and restoration is much more apparent.

To be clear, this is not limited to the area around ancient Thebes and modern-day Luxor. Aswan, Edfu, Kom Ombo, Abu Simbel, Esna and more – many cities and towns along the Nile in Upper Egypt are home to remarkable pieces of history.

There are a couple of obvious reasons for this. Lower Egypt, i.e. Cairo and Alexandria, has been far more developed since ancient times. Growing populations and urban areas naturally sacrifice marks of antiquity. They are demolished or concealed through urban growth. Crucially important agricultural endeavors take priority.

Another impact of geography is that Lower Egypt is much closer and more accessible to conquering empires throughout history. Armies and civilizations spent less time hundreds of miles south when the need wasn’t there.

The Pyramids are an excellent example. Nearly the entire once-bright-and-shiny facade of the Great Pyramid was dismantled to build the medieval citadel of Cairo and other projects. Many ancient structures and cities in southern Egypt were largely spared this level of destruction. There are exceptions, of course; and to see these exceptions in person (much to the indignation of Egyptians), all you have to do is visit places like Rome, New York City, London or Istanbul to witness spectacular monuments of Ancient Egypt withering away in the middle of modern cities.

The Pyramids are also older. That, undeniably, makes them even more impressive, but time takes its toll and erodes the details.

There is also more substance surrounding sites of Ancient Egypt like Luxor, Karnak and the Valley of the Kings. This, in part, is due to all of the aforementioned effects that impacted the ruins up north. However, in my opinion, the artistry and craftsmanship that is visible in the temples, tombs and other archaeological sites in Upper Egypt is more impressive today.

To be fair, some of the famous sites have been restored to the point where they aren’t ancient at all. For instance, large portions of the Mortuary Temple of Hatshepsut (seen below), which is more famous in the 21st Century for hosting fashion shows, aren’t all that ancient. The temple is still beautiful, and there are ancient parts, but, personally, I’m not fond of over-restoration.

None of this is to suggest that the Pyramids are not worth seeing. They are. Rather, I find the visibly-preserved detail at sites around Luxor to be extraordinary. And it’s still extremely old.

Smaller Crowds

The historic sites and attractions in Upper Egypt are generally much less crowded than those in the Cairo/Giza area. The crowd sizes in Upper Egypt vary slightly based on the time of year and the time of day, but the Pyramids never really have a down time. Understandably so, the whole area is pretty much always busy. From open to close.

Generally speaking, when the cruise ships dock, sites in Upper Egypt get busy. For example, Edfu Temple is located in the small city of Edfu. The densely populated city is extremely impoverished. The ancient temple is the only point of interest, and the city is virtually devoid of tourists except in the brief hours when the river-cruising tourists descend upon Edfu. When the boats aren’t there, you can explore Edfu nearly to yourself.

Side note: This is a perfect example of how cruise tourism barely helps the communities in which ships dock. Despite the fact that thousands of tourists visit Edfu Temple each day, there are only a handful of hotels in the city of 60,000 people, and most of these would scare away the typical tourist. Aside from the souvenir stalls at the temple, there aren’t even any tourist shops. No tourist-focused restaurants. Cruises dock. Passengers unload and take a horse-drawn buggy through the dusty streets and straight to the temple. After touring the temple, they go right back. It is abundantly clear that the city and people of Edfu see little, if any, benefit from this.

Anyway, the point of mentioning the river cruises docking in Edfu is to demonstrate that if you want to avoid crowds at temples along the Nile, the opportunities are there. This principle can be applied to Luxor Temple and Karnak as well, though to a lesser degree.

The seasonal flux of tourist arrivals is also more noticeable in Upper Egypt. Temperatures are even hotter down south, thus thinning the crowds slightly during Summer months.

Another Side of Egypt

The Pyramids receive nearly 10 times the annual amount of visitors than Valley of the Kings, over 14 million compared to about 1.5 million.

Located adjacent to Cairo and much closer to Europe, a trip to the Pyramids isn’t a long trek for many tourists, whereas venturing a few hundred miles south requires significantly more time. Cairo is a fascinating megacity, and I would encourage any curious traveler to visit, but that is only one side of Egypt.

Even from the confines of a river cruise or site-hopping from one ancient site to another, it’s inevitable that a trip to the archaeological sites around Luxor, Aswan or somewhere in between will present a different side of Egypt to a traveler. Seeing more of a destination is worthwhile and, in my opinion, a very important part of travel.

England is more than London. Japan, more than Tokyo. The USA, more than New York City. And Egypt is certainly more than Cairo. Traveling to and through areas that aren’t the holiday objective helps us to understand the history better. Even brief glimpses of areas outside of our tourist bubbles provide an excellent way to better understand a people and their nation today.

On top of all this, Upper Egypt has some of the most fantastic sunsets I’ve ever seen. The desolate landscapes are beautiful. It’s worth the extra time.

When and How Long?

How much time do you need to visit Karnak, Luxor Temple and the Valley of the Kings?

This question can be answered simply: As much time as you can stand.

It would be easy to spend an entire day at each of these famous sites. The length of time you should spend at each comes down almost entirely to the heat and your tolerance of oppressive temperatures.

Egypt is extremely hot. Upper Egypt is hotter than most other areas. As mentioned above, you can forget about rain, and cloud cover is also uncommon. The desert sun here is relentless.

Luxor Temple

Visiting Luxor Temple doesn’t require as much time. It is the smallest of the major sites in the area. You can rush through in less than an hour, or you can spend 2-3 hours leisurely working your way through. Much of this depends on the time of day.

When it’s busier, it can take longer to see particular parts of the temple and get the photos you want. On the other hand, you can enjoy it further without the crowds.

Dusk is the most popular time to visit Luxor Temple. Temperatures are growing more pleasant, and this is when many of the river cruises dock and release their passengers. It is crowded after dark, but the temple illuminated by lights is a pretty spectacular scene.

If you want to avoid the crowds, I suggest visiting Luxor Temple during the daytime. It can be extremely hot, so make sure you are prepared, but the heat creates noticeably sparser crowds. The complex isn’t that large and is centrally located, making it a little easier to seek relief from the sun before and after your visit.

A morning visit may be a reasonable compromise. Keep in mind that mornings are still hot, and it will be busier than later in the day.

Karnak

As long as you can stand. This site is astonishing, but there are few areas that offer protection from the sun. Even the on-site museum is hot. It is indoors and has air conditioning, but it was hardly noticeable.

Heat aside, I suggest spending as much time at Karnak as you can. This is truly a remarkable place. The size alone warrants a fair amount of time. The added history, beauty and constant wow-factor around each corner only calls for more time.

Realistically, a few hours is more than enough time to visit Karnak for your first visit. Weather aside, it’s a lot to absorb. In 2-4 hours, you can learn a lot, appreciate the achievement, take more than enough photos and still manage to conserve enough energy to function.

Valley of the Kings

The temperature was 114°F (45.6°C) the day we visited. That’s extremely hot. You might think that entering the tombs, underground and sheltered from the sun, would offer a pleasant respite. To my surprise, the tombs are even hotter. There is virtually no ventilation, so the air is heavy. Naturally, we were already a little sweaty when we reached the entrance to the first tomb. Within 30 seconds of entering, my clothes were completely soaked and sweat was dripping from every pore on my body. Exiting the tombs back to the 114°F air somehow felt refreshing.

When the tour buses arrive and thousands of people descend upon the tombs, the air within grows more unpleasant. It is really saying something that it is more comfortable when you step outside into the extreme heat of the Sahara.

With that in mind, it is crucial to arrive at the Valley of the Kings as early as possible. Not only will the temperatures outside be slightly cooler, the interior heat of the tombs will be slightly more manageable. On top of that, you will likely have many of the tombs all to yourself.

We arrived early and were able to explore the tombs without ever having to wait in a line and rarely having to wait for people to move for the best photos.

It would be easy to spend days at the Valley of the Kings and wander through the many tombs. Unfortunately, there are usually only 7 (sometimes 8) tombs open at any given time. This is to ensure that tombs don’t see too much foot traffic which, inevitably, affects the structures. It also allows time for the closed tombs to be cared for – cleaned, restored, studied and whatever else that might entail.

Since you are only allowed to visit 3 tombs with a general ticket and a maximum of 7 tombs total, you can only spend so much time at the Valley of the Kings. Factor in the heat and the crowds that come and go throughout the day, a few hours will be sufficient for most people to visit. If you’re determined to see as much as possible, you could more leisurely explore the tombs and simply take breaks between each. The ‘cafe’ on site has shade, fans and cold beverages.

Costs

Depending on your method of travel, tickets will be the primary expense to visit Luxor Temple, the Karnak Temple Complex and the Valley of the Kings. The variance in costs factors in when considering transportation and guides.

Note: A ticket to either Karnak or Luxor Temple should allow you to walk the length of the Avenue of Sphinxes. Also, some sites may offer student discounts. Bring your student ID if you have one.

Luxor Temple

Luxor Temple is the easiest of these Ancient Egyptian archaeological sites to visit in the area. It’s location is within easy walking distance of most accommodation, and it is centrally located.

Tickets to enter Luxor Temple are £260 EGP, about $5 USD, for foreigners. A guided tour will cost extra.

Karnak

Karnak Temple Complex can be reached on foot for free. It isn’t as centrally located as Luxor Temple, but it’s not far. This depends on whether or not you want to walk the distance in the heat.

You can cheaply get a taxi to Karnak from anywhere in Luxor. The trip will only be a few minutes and cost a few dollars at most.

Tickets to Karnak cost £360 EGP, about $7 USD, for foreigners. A guided tour will cost extra.

Valley of the Kings

For the Valley of the Kings, most visitors arrive as part of larger groups. This is evident based on the number of tour buses in the parking lot. Others hire private guides, while some choose to visit independently.

General tickets to visit 3 of the 7 open tombs typically cost around $10 USD. The Egyptian Pound has been fluctuating and unpredictable in recent months, so it’s difficult to state the price with any lasting accuracy. That said, general tickets cost £600 EGP (~$12 USD at time of writing).

That’s a great deal! But, as one learns to anticipate in Egypt, it’s not the whole story.

For starters, your main transportation is only allowed to take you to the parking lot. Beyond the ticket checkpoint to the tombs is a distance of about one-half mile, and there is a shuttle that takes visitors to the tombs. You can walk if you want (I think, but I didn’t see anyone walking). It’s Egypt, so the shuttle is not included in the ticket price, but it’s less than $1 USD per person. And that half mile walk would be in the heat, dust and not flat. Save time and pay for the shuttle.

Again, this is Egypt. The costs don’t end there!

The general ticket includes admission to certain tombs. If you want to visit the tomb of King Tut or one of the more elaborate tombs, such as the combined tomb of Rameses V and Rameses VI (tomb KV9), there is an additional fee. Additional fees only amount to an extra few dollars.

My sincere advice is pay the extra fees. Even if you wind up spending $25 on entrance fees, that’s a great price to visit this wonderful site.

Overall, tickets to Valley of the Kings (including the shuttle and add-ons) should be about $20-25 USD.

Most large tour groups will handle your tickets. All you have to do is follow along.

For those visiting with a private guide, bear in mind that tour guides are not allowed to accompany you into the tombs. Most of them will give you some information, point you in the correct direction and head for the on-site cafe for shade, tea and a smoke, leaving you free to explore the tombs.

If you’ve hired a guide for a single day, you will still be expected to tip them. If your guide is leading you over a longer period, you can wait until the end of your trip to tip.

Independent travelers will have to join a small group tour or find a taxi. Taxis can be easily found in Luxor. Uber is great in Egypt and extremely cheap. However, it’s probably best to hire a taxi given that it’s unlikely you’ll have reception or WiFi at the Valley of the Kings for a return Uber. Taxis will cost you about $10-15 USD each way, or you can pay for the day. You should be able to hire a taxi for the trip there, to wait for you and take you back for NO MORE than $30 USD.

Hotels in Luxor

Many tourists reach Luxor via Nile River Cruise. If this is the case for you, there may not be a need to book a hotel in Luxor. If you are spending an extra day in Luxor before or after your cruise, there are plenty of hotels from which to choose. These vary from cheap, family-run guesthouses to extravagant resorts.

My inclination is to suggest staying close to Luxor Temple. That said, transportation (discussed further below) is plentiful and inexpensive. Perhaps Luxor is a great opportunity to stay in a fancy hotel for a great price. In particular, the Sofitel Winter Palace, an historic hotel overlooking Luxor Temple, looks like an excellent place to splurge for a couple of nights. In hindsight, I wish we stayed a couple of extra nights here.

Luxor Transportation

Local Transportation

For those traveling in large groups or with a private guide, you won’t have to worry much, if at all, about transportation in Luxor. This will all be handled for you.

For independent travelers, getting around the city will be more exciting. You’ll get to see more and figure things out for yourself. Personally, I love this part of travel. Getting around Luxor, if you’re going farther than your feet can take you, will be cheap. Taxis are cheap and abundant. Just make sure to confirm any price before you get into the cab. Uber is also cheap, and it’s easy. Oh, and don’t forget to tip.

Long Distance Transportation

Reaching Luxor from other places in Egypt is fairly simple. You can reach the city via bus from Aswan, Cairo, Hurghada and probably everywhere in between. Buses in Egypt are hit-or-miss in terms of comfort and reliable travel times, so I would suggest avoiding them when possible.

An alternative to the bus is the train. You can take the Night Train from Cairo or Aswan. It’s comfortable and straightforward.

Lastly, flying is also an option. Flights to Luxor from Cairo are about an hour in length and tickets (one-way or round trip) are almost always less than $100. You can fly to Luxor from other locations in Egypt, though regular flights are not always direct, frequently requiring a layover in Cairo. In these instances, it may be wise to consider alternatives.

Luxor International Airport also has flights to Europe around the year. In the cooler months, the airport sees an increase in seasonal flights from many cities in Europe.

Extra Tips for Luxor, Karnak & the Valley of the Kings

• Eat breakfast, this is important. Don’t stuff yourself. That would be foolish. Intense heat makes many of us not want to eat, but a little something like toast, an egg and some fruit can seriously help dealing with the heat later. Also, it might be best to avoid any significant boozing the night before desert sightseeing. These are not the conditions in which you want to be hungover.
• Drink plenty of water. Don’t be afraid to stop for a break in the shade. Have a popsicle. Touring an ancient ruin is never worth risking your health, and everyone is different. My wife has spent most of her life in a place where the average temperature is around 55°F (13°C), whereas I’m from a place that is miserably hot and humid a majority of the year. The heat in Egypt had much less effect on me than my wife, and there were times where she was pleased to rest in the shade while I wandered off to try to see it all. We were both happy and survived. That’s what matters. Don’t overdo it.
• Skip King Tut’s tomb. Yeah, it’s King Tut, I know. He’s the most internationally famous pharaoh today. The discovery of the treasures in his tombs is beyond famous – it’s legend! Unfortunately for the Valley of the Kings and people of Luxor, the bulk of the priceless cache of riches found in Tut’s tomb is housed in the Grand Egyptian Museum. Hundreds of miles away in Giza. His tomb itself wasn’t meant for a pharaoh. His sudden death and rushed burial prevented this. Essentially, Tutankhamen didn’t have years to plan and design an ornate tomb like some of the others at the Valley of the Kings. The interior of Tut’s tomb is smaller and lacks the splendor and grandiosity seen in less famous tombs. If time is limited, skip it.
• Don’t pay anyone inside the temples or tombs. Nearly every Egyptian archaeological site I visited had people harassing tourists, hands out with palms open, demanding a tip. Why? Who knows, probably simply because tourists too often relent and pay them to get them to go away. Of course, this reinforces the behavior, and the authorities rarely care about this. Hiring a guide for your trip is an excellent way to keep the touts and beggars at bay while also gaining access to tremendous information.
• Bathrooms are a different story. Keep a small amount of money in your pocket. You may have to pay to use public restrooms that, for some reason, aren’t always included in the price of admission.
• There are a lot of websites advertising guided tours of the Valley of the Kings. This is a waste of money, an overpriced chauffer. At the very least, it’s misleading. They might be able to give you information before you enter the tombs, but guides are not allowed to accompany tourists inside.
• If you are claustrophobic, determine how sensitive you are to enclosed, underground spaces before visiting the Valley of the Kings. Honestly, the tombs are large and spacious, but that may not be sufficient for some. There’s nothing to see outside, so don’t waste your time if you won’t be able to enter and explore the tombs.
• You should not ever have to pay for your guide’s ticket. Legitimate, official guides in Egypt either do not have to pay for admission, have an annual pass or their tickets should be factored into their fees. Ticket prices for Egyptians are extremely cheap anyway.
• Don’t forget to tip your guide! Tipping is a big deal in Egypt, especially for foreigners. Some people do not deserve or earn tips but demand them nonetheless. Most guides, on the other hand, provide excellent services and are deserving of something extra.

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Ancient Egypt is one of the most celebrated, mysterious and fascinating civilizations our world has seen. Thanks to a lot of luck and hard work, we have the ability to see some of the most spectacular remnants of this once-great civilization.

While the Pyramids receive the bulk of attention (and visitors), Upper Egypt has a tremendous amount of history, mystery and culture to offer as well. In particular, the archaeological sites in and around Luxor are truly some of the world’s best. When you’re planning your trip to see the Land of the Pharaohs, don’t forget to make time for a few days in Upper Egypt. It’s worth every minute and every effort.